Dressmaker's Mannequin 3d Figure

Large dimensional dressmaker's 3d figure 

for display, to hold necklaces, and more. 

Body form is built as torso and skirt that connect at the waist. 

Accent panels included to decorate form 

in "color" block fashion using favorite paper prints. 

Stand is built separately with center hex tube 

wrapped around a 5/16" wooden dowel, 

with tri-pod swirl feet stand and "turned bead" detail. 

Stand pole slides inside body tube. 

Measures approx. 16.5" tall. 

Body measures approx. 4" wide x 2.75" deep x 8" tall. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

Body shapes:

A left back bodice with 4 accent shapes overlaid

B right back bodice with 4 accent shapes overlaid

C right side panel with accent shape

D right front bodice/shoulder with accent shapes

E left front bodice/shoulder with accent shapes

F left side panel with accent shape

G neck form

H waist reinforcement (for skirt)

I skirt shapes 1-10 with accent shapes

J skirt base reinforcement shape

K skirt base cover

L torso pole tube  M torso pole top gluing shape

Stand shapes:

N stand pole shape   O pole stop band

P & R pole decorative rings (6 each)

Q pole decorative shape

S stand foot connecting shapes L & R (3 each)

T foot reinforcing shapes L & R (6 each)

U foot decorative shapes L & R (3 each)

V foot stabilizing ring main (3)

W stabilizing accent ring

2. Prepare the torso shapes by bending back

on all perforation lines and tab perf lines.

Take care at the "internal" perforation lines that

bi-sect vertical perforation lines to carefully

bend and finger-crease ONLY to the crossing line

and not beyond. 

(The line shown here is on the upper bodice front;

similar lines are on the upper bodice back.

These help shape the front to connect with

the side panel shaping.)

3. Complete the "dart" seam under bust line

by overlapping the straight side edge

over the dart tab, and glue in place.

Complete darts for both bodice halves.

4. Complete the center front bodice seam

by overlapping the straight edge over the

corresponding tab to perf line, centering

the mid-point bust line ridges of each,

then attaching bottom, then top segments.

5. Complete the back bodice shoulder blade

dart as for previous bodice dart,

for both left and right back bodice shapes. 

6. Complete the center back bodice seam line

as previously done for center front seam line.

7. Identify the side panels with their 'R' and 'L'

markings in top tab.

Then position appropriately on the right or

left corresponding edge of the front bodice

assembly, and attach by overlapping straight edge

to the tab perforation line, working one segment

of the side seam at a time.

This image shows the 'R' side panel.

Complete for the 'L' panel as well.

8. Position and attach the optional accent shapes

onto each quadrant of front and back bodice.

NOTE that the accent piece inward edges will

line up along the bodice perforation lines,

to abutt with adjacent accent shapes so that

"color block" areas will visually 'join'.

Here is the sample's bodice front with accent

panels, where you can see the accent shapes

aligning so that they appear as one piece.

Complete addition of accent shapes for back bodice.

9. Position and attach back shoulder edge at the

shoulder extension tab from the front bodice

assembly. NOTE that the back bodice shoulder

edge crosses a perforation line and involves

two segments, from a slight corner at the neck

opening edge, to the outer side edge.

Complete both shoulder seams

10. Bend the bodice back into position to

complete the side panel to back bodice seam

in three segments.

Complete both back side seams in this manner.

11. Prepare the neck form shape by bending

the tabs along the bottom edge forward slightly,

all other tabs and perf lines bend back.

12. Form the neck shape into a tube and
complete the side back seam.

13. Bend the tabs inward, the top "lid" down
into position, adjust so that perf lines and
lid edges line up, and glue in place.

14. Bend bottom tabs inward slightly to allow

neck form to be inserted into the neck opening

of the bodice assembly, apply adhesive to face

surface of tabs, then insert and glue tabs to

the underside of the respective torso assembly.

To complete the attachment of tabs, it will probably
be necessary to work with a long tool such as
this pencil eraser end inserted into the torso
cavity to apply pressure against the tabs and
body surfaces, until all are attached firmly.

15. Identify and arrange the skirt sections

in order from 1-10 (ID numbers found in the

top tabs of each).

Prepare each skirt shape by bending top tabs
forward slightly, then bending side tabs back,
and back at the horizontal perforation line.

16. Group skirt panels 9-10-1-2-3 as 

the skirt front with side,

and panels 4-8 as the skirt back with side.

17. Join panels 1 & 2 by overlapping straight edge

over corresponding tab perf lines,

lining up the cross perf lines, then joining

one segment, then the other

to complete the side seam.

18. Continue in the same manner to join
panel 3 to previous assembly, then 10 & 9
on the opposite side of panel 1 to complete front skirt.
19. In similar manner, join panels 4-8 for skirt back.

Here are the skirt front/side and back/side assemblies.

19. Position and attach accent shapes in similar

fashion to bodice accent "color block" groups,

with edges abutting at the perforation lines

that bi-sect right front 9&10, left front 1&2, left back 4&5, 

right back 6&7, and side panels 3 & 8 as separate

accent panel upper and lower pairs.

20. Position and attach side seams to
join front and back skirt assemblies.

21. Prepare the (hemline) skirt reinforcement

shape by bending edge tabs forward.

22. Prepare the (waistline) skirt reinforcement
shape by bending edge tabs forward.

23. Orient the waist reinforcement shape with 'F'
front edge matching skirt assembly front,
slide the shape into the upper opening and
downward until perforation lines of tabs of
all line up, and attach in place.
NOTE: it may be easiest to position and
attach side tabs first, then adjust and
attach tabs in between second.
24. Position and attach the bottom reinforcement 
shape with F oriented to match skirt, in a
similar manner. For bottom shape, take care to
line up tab end edge with skirt bottom edge.
(see second image with step 31 to see 
bottom reinforcement shape in place.)

25. Prepare torso pole shape by bending back

along each long perforation line, bending end tabs

back.

26. Prepare the stand pole shape in similar manner.

27. To form the pole tube, wrap the stand tube
around a length of 5/16" wooden dowel tightly
so that the straight side edge overlaps the opposite
tab flange to the perf line. Work finger pressure
up and down the length of tube to force tube
into tight position and assure secure seam 
from top to bottom.

28. Repeat the process for the torso pole tube,

wrapping it around the pole tube fairly snugly

to overlap straight edge to alight at opposite tab flange

perforation line. Apply finger pressure all along

seam to secure good connection top to bottom.

Remove torso tube from dowel.

29. Insert the top end of torso tube through opening

of the neck form gluing shape,

bend tabs back at perfs and glue in place to

shape.

30. Apply glue to top of gluing shape,
insert pole assembly into torso cavity
(match front of gluing shape to neck form
to ensure fronts of each match)
until gluing shape is flush against backside
of top of neck form, and apply pressure until
secured in place.

31. Insert bottom of torso tube through skirt top

reinforcement hex hole, through skirt cavity . . .

. . . and through bottom reinforcement opening,

while as the same time fitting skirt top tabs

inside torso opening.

Bend tabs back and glue in place to
reinforcement shape.
NOTE: reach fingers inside finger holes . . .

. . . to adjust pole tab position to
line up with reinforcement cut edges.

32. Position and attach skirt bottom cover shape

to hide finger openings and tab construction.

NOTE: rotate shape as necessary to find

proper fit front or back.

33. Prepare the pole decor shape by bending back

on all tabs and perf lines.

34. Join the top seams, one by one, by overlapping
the straight edge over the adjacent wedge tab
 to perf line, and gluing in place.

35. Form the decor shape into a tube and

complete side seam in two segments.

NOTE it may be necessary to use a tool such as

the spatula handle here inserted into the

tube's interior to provide a press against surface

to complete the side seam.

36. Bend bottom tabs inward, bottom hex "lid" into position,

and glue in place.

37. Prepare the decor "bead" shapes by layering
and carefully gluing 6 circles in a stack,
(complete two stacks) taking care to line up 
hex opening edge as exactly as possible.

38. Cut the 5/16" dowel to 14" to 16" length.

Insert into the stand pole tube until bottom ends

of each are flush.

Slide the pole decor shapes onto the pole tube

in order as shown from bottom up, moving them

above the perf cut guide marks a few inches

above bottom.

(They will be moved to final position and glued later.)

39. Prepare the left and right main foot shapes by

bending the inside tabs as shown:

inner fold as "valley" fold,

outer fold as "mountain" fold.

(These folds will provide a bracket that will

attach to the hexagon pole side and

wrap into the adjacent hex side faces.)

40. Position left & right pairs of foot shapes
and glue together the back sides of
all except the edge flange tabs.
(Prepare 3 foot units total.)

41. Stack and glue a pair of left foot reinforcement

shapes, and a pair of right foot shapes.

(Complete 3 total pairs of each l & r.)

42. Position appropriate stack onto the l or r face

of the main foot assembly, aligning inner straight

edge at tab flange perf line, aligning all other

cut edges as exactly as possible.

43. Position and attach the accent shapes
(upper and lower swirl) on each left and right
face of each foot assembly.
NOTE that accents are offset from foot edges,
and have a gap between upper and swirl shapes . . .

. . . as can be see here.

(This gap will provide a place for the

reinforcing ring to fit snugly.)

44. Locate the positioning hash cut approx. 3"

up from bottom of stand pole, and position and

attach the foot assembly tabs.

The middle portion of tabs area should sit flush

with one hex face, with edge flanges wrapping

into adjacent hex faces.

As this attachment process is underway . . .

. . . place the pole squarely on a flat surface

to check that the foot bottom sits on the surface

appropriately. Make adjustments as necessary.

Attach all three foot assemblies on

alternate hex faces of the stand pole.

45. Slide and glue the decor shapes down to

the top of the foot assembly. 

46. Stack and glue the stabilizing ring main shapes

taking care to line up edges, hex hole and edge

slots as exactly as possible.

As with other stacked layer shapes,

you may wish to use a flat heavy weight to

ensure that the shape remains flat as glue dries

(avoid warping).

47. Position - centered -  accent shape on

top of the stabilizer ring, and glue in place.

48. Line up the circle edge slots at each

foot, then slide into position, moving gently upward . . .

. . . until circle "locks" in to the accent shape gap.
Apply dab of glue to the underside of the foot and
ring to secure in place.

49. Insert the pole tube into the torso tube,

and slide upward to the desired height

(from 14.5" to 18"). Then, to lock into position . . .

. . . bend the stop strip at perforations, then

position and glue in place flush below the skirt

base shape. 

(Glue could also be added to attach the two

tubes together.)

Here is the completed dress form project,

at approx. 16" tall here.