Monday, March 27, 2017

Egg Tree Display Stand Assembly

Fun Easter seasonal decor begins with
the sturdy upright pole (reinforced with a 3/4" diameter wood dowel)
which supports three notched arms.
Hang your own Painter Dozen eggs - cut from favorite
patterned paper, or other charms of your choice.
(Egg designs with 4 different base edge shaping,
plus a file that includes the four overlays are available
as separate designs.)
Here you can see the stand on its own.
Optional flower finial decoration completes the top.
 Arm end punch holes can be covered 
with decorative studs or brads. 
Measures approx. 16.5" tall x 12" wide x 4.25" deep (base).

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A riser stand base shape
B scallop base shape    C optional bottom cover
D contour shapes (6)
E, F & G arms with build up layers (4 of each)
H back attachment brackets (3)
I front accent brackets (3)
J bottom short post section
K upper post section
L optional blossom finial with petals shape,
2 centers (NOTE this shape has been changed
from what is shown here)
2. Prepare the riser shape by bending edge
boxing panels back, triangle tabs between
boxing panels back, edge tabs forward,
center hex opening tabs back/inward.
3. Build the riser shape into an "inverted tray" by
bending side panels back, overlapping straight
side end edge over adjacent triangle tab to
the tab perforation line, and gluing in place.
Repeat for all 6 boxing edge seams all around.
4. Prepare the contour shapes by bending slightly
forward at the top two perforation lines,
bottom "boxing" edge panel back, bottom edge tabs
outward, side edge tabs back. (NOTE that the side
tab connected to the rounded top segment has
been removed in the final design.)
5. Begin to attach the first two contour sections
by aligning the bottom "boxing" panels next to
each other, placing the straight end edge to
overlap the adjacent side edge tab to perf line.
Glue in place.
6. Continue to complete the side seam by
bending the two shapes so that the next segment
edge and adjacent perf line match up, and glue.
7. Finish the first seam by bending and adjusting
so that the third segment straight edge and
adjacent tab's perforation line match up,
and glue in place.
(There is no top segment side tab to attach.)
8. Repeat the process to attach the six contour
shapes into one unit.
9. Form the unit into a "tube" to bring the final
straight edges of the first contour shape to overlap
the corresponding tab perforation lines,
as was done with each seam.
It will be helpful to reach finger(s)/thumb
inside the "tube" to apply pressure along seams segments.
10. Position the contour unit over the riser base
so that the contour tabs can be inserted into
the corresponding slots.
11. On the back side, bend the contour tabs
outward and glue to the back side of the riser.
12. Position the riser over the scallop base
so that the tabs can be inserted into the corresponding
13. On the back side, bend the riser tabs outward
and glue in place to the back of the base.
14. Prepare the post shapes by carefully bending
back along the vertical perforation lines.
15. Cut a section of 3/4" diameter wood dowel to 
a scant 14 1/16" length.
Form the post shapes into tubes, wrap around
the dowel as a gluing-up form, overlapping
the plain straight side edge over the edge
tab, and gluing in place.
For the LONG post section, quick movement
of fingers along the long tab seam to apply
necessary pressure to achieve a complete,
smooth seam will be necessary.
16. Place the lower section onto the bottom of the dowel,
positioning so that the bottom end tab perforations
are even with the bottom of the dowel. Glue in place.
17. Insert the top end of the dowel through the upper
long post section, and move post section down so that
it fits snugly next to the top edge of lower post section.
Glue in place.
18. Position and glue the top hex cover over the
top end of the dowel.
19. Insert the top end of the post through the bottom
hex opening of the base/riser/contour unit,
through the center of the riser hex opening . . .
(keep the wedge tabs bent downward inside
the riser and out of the way of the post),
and up through the contour. Continue sliding the post into 
position until the bottom tabs . . .
. . . are even with the base opening edges.
Bend tabs outward and glue in place.
20. At the top of the contour unit, glue the rounded
sections in place to the post.
(This should more or less cover the post seam.)
21. Prepare the arm units by layering the four shapes
of each length arm, aligning all cut edges and punch
holes as precisely as possible, and gluing layers together.
NOTE: use a flat weight or weights placed atop
the glued-up arm unit while the glue is drying,
to keep the arm flat and avoid curling or warping.
22. At the center top of the shortest and the longest
arms, bend the "notch" forward slightly, to provide
a place for the egg ornament loop to hook.
23. Locate the positioning dash cuts on the
front panel of the post. There is one cut for
aligning the bottom edge of each of the three arms.
24. Position the longest (bottom) arm above the lowest
dash guide cut, centering the arm by using
the vertical positioning dash guide cuts on the arm,
and glue in place using a quick-grab adhesive
such as hot glue or Fabri-Tack. Before the glue
has dried, check to ensure that the arm is
perfectly perpendicular to the post, parallel
to the table top.
25. Repeat the positioning and gluing, checking
for perpendicularity for the middle arm.
Guide dash cuts show where the bottom edge
of arm should be placed.
26. Prepare the optional finial base shape
by bending the hexagon cutout back.
27. Layer the blossom accent shape with
two-part center, then position and attach the unit
to the front of the base, with bottom center
straight edges of each even, scalloped/petal
edges offset as shown.
28. Position the finial bottom hex extension
over the top of the post (face side of blossom
will face forward on the plane of the tree front face)
and glue in place.
29. Also apply some adhesive under the front
lower edge of the finial face to attach it to the post.
30. Position and attach the top arm as with 
the other two, centering and placing the bottom arm 
edge at the dash mark.
31. Apply a little adhesive between the back of 
the arm and the front of the finial lower edge
to further secure the finial in position.
32. Prepare the back attachment bracket strips
by bending back on the middle four perforation
lines, bending the end tabs forward.
33. Position around the back side of the post
exactly behind each arm, and securely glue
to the post . . . 
. . . and glue end tabs to the arm back side.
Repeat for each of the arms.
34. On the front of the arms, position and attach
the short front bracket accents.
Attach decorative studs over the arm end punch holes,
and over the front (and back, if desired) bracket holes.
Here is the completed tree.
This closeup shows more arm and accent details.
35. To position the egg ornaments, simply loop
the twine or string "loop" over the arm notches,
including the center notches bent forward
described in step 22. 
Here is a view of the completed tree.

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