Witch 3D Figure Pillar

Sturdy dimensional pillar shape composed of lid that fits 

over base forms the stylized body of this Halloween lady. 

Paper-wrapped 5/16” wooden dowel inserted through 

pillar center suggests neck which supports dimensional head. 

Tube arms are tied in place with ribbon that is threaded 

through body and end beads.

Peaked pinafore collar, layered star button, 

sawtooth-edge apron, thick swirly bat wings  

and dress accent shapes add interest. 

Miniature witch hat sits atop her springy curls created 

by wrapping twine around wooden skewer 

and applying starch, then allowed to dry, 

removed and hot-glued onto head. 

Measures approx. 11” tall to hat tip x 

3” deep x 3” wide (7” wing span). 

ASSEMBLY: (NOTE: the Witch Figure is very similar
to the Valentine Angel figure, so many of the tutorial
images for that project are used in this tutorial,
except when differences need to be illustrated.)

1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main pillar "lid" body  B pillar "base" interior
C base collar stabilizer  D anchor shapes (8)
E bottom cover for pillar base
F & G body/dress accent shapes
H center post/neck wrap strip  I arm wraps (2)
J hand wraps (2)   K head front   L head back
M eye underlay   N optional cheek stencil
O apron   P pinafore collar front & back
R hat crown   S hat brim  T hat band
U hat under brim accent
W wings base (3)  
X wing front overlays for buildup (3)
Y wing back overlays for build up (3)

2. Prepare the shapes that need to be layered
and glued up for thickness and allowed to 
dry thoroughly prior to being added to the assembly:
a. layer the three swirl wing overlays for front,
and three for back, taking particular care
to align all cut edges interior and outer edge,
and glue together.

b. while the shapes stacks are drying, press flat

under a flat weight such as this muslin-covered

re-purposed free weight bar, or equivalent.

c. layer the swirl wings overlays for front and back

on each side of the built up base, then glue

and press flat.

d. Layer and join the larger base star shapes into
one stack and press under a flat weight if possible.
e. Layer and join the smaller pointed front star shapes
into one stack and press under a flat weight if possible.

f. Layer the pointed smaller front star stack on top

of the base star stack, align the punch holes,

and attach together. Press under flat weight until dry.

g, Layer the post anchor shapes into a single stack,

taking care to align the cut edges -- especially

the inside hexagon edges -- and glue together.

Press under a flat weight until fully dry.

3. If you will be adding curly "twine" hair to your figure,

prepare it using the following suggested steps:

a. attach the lead end with a small piece of paper tape

(masking tape) near one end of a wooden skewer.

b. roll the twine around the skewer neatly in one

layer with "rows" side by side, proceeding . . .

. . . until the full length of the skewer is covered

(approx. 4.5 yds. of twine), the cut end and tape

this end in place securely with a small piece

of paper tape.

c. repeat for 3 more skewers full of twine curls.

d. use spray starch such as this product shown

to saturate the twine completely; allow to dry fully.

e. remove the end tape pieces, then carefully

slide the curls off the skewer, handling the curls

in a manner to avoid stretching out of shape

as much as possible; reserve curls until end

of figure assembly (step ___ ).

4. Prepare the neck post strip by carefully bending back

on each of the long vertical perforation lines.

5. Prepare the glue the long side seam by wrapping
the strip into a tube around a length of 5/16" wood dowel,
overlapping the straight side edge across the opposite
long flange to the first perforation line, and glue in place,
working fingertip pressure along the length to
continually push the seam into position and secure it.

6. Move one end of the tube to the end of the dowel
so that ends match exactly then mark the opposite
end of the tube as the dowel cutting line.
Remove the dowel from the tube, and cut to size;
sand the ends to perpendicular and for smooth surface
if necessary.

7. To secure the tube to the dowel, slide the tube
up for 1/2" or so, apply glue to the exposed dowel,
and also inside the tube at opposite end.
Re-position the tube and dowel to have ends even,
and allow to dry in place.

8. Prepare the main hull shape by bending back
on all segment perforation lines and side flange,
top tabs and top "lid". Also push back the top center
hex opening, then . . .

. . . use the completed post unit to prepare top
post opening of the main hull "lid" by rotating hex tube
to match the opening dash line, then pushing through
to bend the wedge tabs inward.

9. Identify the center segment (wide with NO punches),

then . . .

. . . position and attach the wide and the narrow
accent panels with narrow offset margin all around,
matching up punches when they are encountered.

10. Prepare the lower hull shape by bending back

on all segments and flange perforation lines,

bottom base and tab lines.

11. Position the collar stack on the inside of

the base shape with hexagon openings

aligned as precisely as possible, and glue in place.

12. Form the hull into a tube to bring the straight

back segment edge to overlap the opposite flange

to perforation line, and glue the side seam.

NOTE it may be helpful to insert a rigid tool 

into hull behind the seam to provide a press-against

surface to help secure the seam across the center.

11. Bend the top tabs inward . . . 

. . . then bend the top "lid" into position

to align cut edges as tab perforation lines,

and glue in place.

12. Prepare the lower hull shape by bending back

on all segments and flange perforation lines,

bottom base and tab lines.

13. Position the collar stack on the inside of

the base shape with hexagon openings

aligned as precisely as possible, and glue in place.

14. On the outside, position (centered) and glue 

the bottom cover in place.

15. Form the lower hull into a tube
to join the side seam.

16. Bend the bottom tabs inward, bend the bottom

panel into position, align and attach edges at

perforation edges.

17. Prepare the top reinforcement shape by

bending the edge flanges forward.

Insert the reinforcement into the opening, then . . .

. . .  align first long tab edge at corresponding
hull top long edge and glue in place until secure.

Use a tool (such as this weeder hook) to pull

the reinforcement shape into position

(this is a snug fit) so that all other edges align

and can be glued to hull top edges.

18. Apply glue along inner hull lower wall edge,

then insert lower hull into the bottom opening

of the upper hull, and slide the two together

until bottoms are aligned as closely as possible.

 19. Prepare the left and right arm tube shapes

by bending back on the long perforation lines

(similar to post tube) and also bend the upper

tabs and hex panel inward, and lower tabs and 

hand* extensions inward (*hand extension base

perforation is bent back, second perf line is

bent forward).

20. Form the arm shape into a tube, using
the 1/4" uncut dowel to assist with aligning
side straight edge and side flange perf line
and gluing the seam. 

Move the top of dowel down to align end

with top tabs and hex panel, then bend

tabs inward . . . 

. . . bend "cap" hex into position and glue in place.

 21. Cut two arm dowel insert pieces at 2.625" each

(NOTE that dowel will not fill the arm tube

beyond the ribbon-joint hole punch.

22. Insert dowel into bottom of arm tube

and push inward until end is even with

bottom/hand base tab perforations.

Glue dowel in place.

Bend tabs inward . . . 

. . . bend hands toward center as shown,

glue hand base segments to top of dowel,

and hand main portions back to back

to each other.

23. Prepare hand overlays by
bending back on center perforation line.
Apply glue to hand underside,
then wrap around hand extension,
adjust and glue in place.

24. Prepare ribbon or twine joint with bead ends

by threading a needle that will fit through selected beads

with a double length. 

A. thread needle through bead and tie end knot and bow.

B. thread needle through first arm hole punches

(NOTE hand straight edge is front edge).

C. thread needle through hull side panel hole punches.

D. thread through holes of second arm.
E. thread through final bead, tie knot and bow,
and trim excess ribbon or twine.

25. Apply glue to the post end, then insert

it into hull through top hex opening,
work into position in front of or behind the arm
joint ribbon/twine, through interior reinforcement
hex opening, then . . . 

. . . down to bottom to seat the end into the collar

hex recess at inner hole bottom panel,

applying pressure  to sense when post fits in properly.

26. (NOTE: the Witch head front has been modified

slightly from the Angel to omit some slots)

Prepare the front head shape . . . 

 . . . and back by bending back

on all perforation lines for panels, 

wedge and edge

tabs, etc.

27. Position and attach the eye contrast shape

behind the eye punches of face panel.

28. Bend head front panel segments to overlap

and align perforation and straight seam edges:

A. first top side seam

B. second top side seam

C. mid side two-part seam

E. bottom side seam

F. bottom mid side two-part seam
(Complete second side in same manner.)

29. Bend side panels of head partition back, then . . . 

. . . apply glue to the lower wedge tabs and
to other side tabs.

30. Bend tabs inward then bend partition into place . . . 

. . . tucking tabs inside head edges, and glue in place.

31. Prepare the back head in similar manner

by completing the upper . . . 

. . . and lower side seams.

32. Bend all side flanges inward, then back out
so they can wrap around the head front edges.
Insert the top tab of back into the top slot of front
and glue in place (reach finger through back oval
window to apply appropriate pressure.)

33. Apply glue to underside of back edge flanges,

then wrap snugly around the edges of front head

and apply pressure to each until all are secure.

34. To apply cheek rouging, bend the check stencil

shape back on perf lines, then position with bottom edge

at face panel bottom edge, secure in place with temp tape,

then apply distressing ink or stencil paint, etc.

Remove and discard stencil.

35. Prepare the pinafore front and back shapes by
bending upper "tabs" forward to perpendicular,
and lower panels back to perpendicular.
36. Position the two shapes so that upper tabs
are back to back . . . 

. . . and glue together with edges aligned.

37. Identify the back of the hull by locating the double

punches, then . . . 

. . . insert the pinafore over the center post

with the longer front portion aligned at

the opposite front panel, center it, and glue

"shoulders" surfaces together.

Also apply a dab of glue to front and back

lower portions to glue to respective 

front or back hull panels.

38. Prepare the apron shape by bending back

on the vertical perforation lines, and also bend

forward slightly on the upper tabs.

39. Position skirt front panel a generous 1/4"

below the pinafore edge, centered, where the tab

edges will line up with the front panel corners,

and glue in place. Also position and glue the section

tabs to each side of center to corresponding panels.

NOTE that when the upper pinafore edges is

more or less perpendicular to the hull bottom,

the apron will have a slight flare away from hull.

40. Apply glue to the top surface of the neck post . . . 

. . . then slide the head over the post, taking care

to orient the face toward the front of assembly.

Ease the head down into position until the post top
seats to the under/inside of the head, then apply
pressure until head is secure in place.

41. Thread twine through star holes and tie knot

and bow. Position and attach to front.

42. Position wings over back with punch holes of
each aligned, and glue securely in place.
Add decorative studs or nail heads over punch holes.

43. Prepare the witch hat shapes as shown:
crown - bend back on vertical diagonal lines,
and forward on bottom edge tabs.
band - back at each short perf line

44. Form the crown into a cone to align and glue
the seam.

NOTE that it will be helpful to insert a pointed form
such as this wooden skewer into crown cone
behind the seam to provide a press-against surface.

45. Apply glue to the face of each crown tab, then

slide the brim shape over the crown . . . 

. . . and move downward until it is seated at tab
edges, and apply pressure to attach in place.

46. On the underside of the brim, position and
attach the accent shape with inner hex edges
aligned, to hide the tabs.

47. Apply glue then position and attach band.

NOTE: if preferred, the hat can simply be positioned
and attached to the head at this point in assembly
without the hair being prepared and attached.
Or prepare the "wig" as follows:

48 A.Tie the ends of twine curls together in double knot

and trim tails off.

B. Form lengths into closed loops with knots at
center, then bunch together and tie into a hank.

C. Position and glue the front "bangs" or "fringe"

at the top of head (roughly as shown) and glue on

(use quick-grab glue such as Fabri-Tack or hot melt).

D. Curve next portion down toward cheek and tack
with glue.

E. Curve upward again and glue tack in place,
then fill in the back of the head with the remaining
length of curls. NOTE: bunch the curls at each step
in the arranging and gluing process.
F. Repeat for the second side of the wig.

49. Apply glue to the inside of crown at lower edge,

then position and attach the hat.

NOTE: tip the hat back slightly for 

a more whimsical flare.

Here is the witch figure completed from front view . . .

. . . and from back.