Sunday, September 19, 2021

Halloween 3D Tube Boxes

 
Treat boxes imitate a cardboard roll art project, 
but with sturdier form and guesswork eliminated. 
Eye and mouth cutouts have contrast shapes 
glued in place behind openings, with pupil circle cutouts 
added to front. Three punch holes at center back seam help 
with edge alignment and can hold decorative mini brads. 
Tube box bottom is stabilized with a 12-sided and tabbed disc 
(with optional stacked/glued strengthening disc placed inside if desired). 
Cut-to-size bamboo skewer cross beam holds 
front-n-back faced arms or wings. 
Two variations for ghost, bat or pumpkin are included
in the individual cut files: simple open top, 
or crescent-creased inverted arch closure at 
front and back which lends the characters a “pointy ear” look. 

Either version measures approx. 1.875” diameter. 
Shorter tube box measures:   3.875” tall. 
Pointed version with closure crescents 
measures approx. 4.875” tall. 
General assembly will be demonstrated with
the Ghost box, with some detail difference noted. 
Other specific information about
the Bat (step 18) and Pumpkin boxes will follow (step 20).

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)
NOTE the shape shown is for the simpler tube,
while the top closure will be shown in tutorial.
B eye contrast backer panel
C mouth contrast backer panel
D bottom disc panel
E optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)
F & G arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)
2. If using the bottom reinforcements, prepare the stack
early so it can be glued up and dried before needed.
Position and attach the three shapes, taking care that
all outer cut edges align as precisely as possible.

Press the stacked disc shape on a flat surface with
a heavy flat object such as this thick book, possibly
with something else heavy on top, to help the shape
remain flat, avoid warping and curling, until fully dry.
3. Add some back curl to the main hull shape,
taking care that openings and attached flanges or
tabs do not tear in the process. Shown here,
the shape is placed face down and a thick dowel
is curling surface, where the shape is drawn across
the shapes edge. NOTE: a thinner dowel will actually
work better, as will a straight edge held stationary
while the shape is drawn up against edge.
Curling will assist the shape to form the tube.
4. Pinch-bend at each of the 11 short perforation lines
along the bottom of the main hull panel.
5. If making the top closure hull version, separate
the crescent division cuts full (may be connected
at top edge). 
6. Pinch bend along the curved perforation lines
for the center full and two side half crescent panels.

7. Add back side-to-side curl to the eye backer shape,
and . . . 
. . . do the same for the mouth backer shape. 
8. Position and attach each of the backer shapes
behind the eye cutout and mouth cutout openings,
taking care that the shapes are more or less
centered for full coverage. Press with weight
if possible, and allow to fully dry.
9. Prepare the tube bottom shape by bending the edge
tabs forward all around.
10. NOTE the widely-spaced perf guidemarks
along the "tab/flange" back edge. These help
identify the edge that will be overlapped by
the opposite straight edge.

Form the hull into a tube to overlap edges as
noted above . . . 
. . . line up bottom and top edges,
and align punch holes, then join seam.
Reach fingertips inside tube to apply pressure
all along the seam.
If desired, place mini brads through punch holes
and bend prongs to assist seam joint.
11. Apply glue to the underside of the tabs.
Position the bottom disc next to the bottom tube
opening, align one of the sections with the center back
segment as defined by perf lines and back edge.
Slide the tab down into position within the rim edge . . .
. . . until rim and tab outer edges align  and
press to tack-join in place.
Next, push the disc down into position while
at the same time adjust the shape of the tube
to allow the disc to fit inside, aligning each tab
with one segment. Press and secure center front
segment in place. Then continue around each half
until all are aligned. If disc slips inside too far,
readjust and use fingertips to re-position.
12. Position and attach eye dots within eye circles.
13. If desired, place the bottom reinforcement disc
inside the tube (with glue on the underside) and
drop/push into place at bottom of tube, rotating
so that the straight edges align with edge segments.
14. Measure and cut a length of bamboo skewer
for the arms interior strengthener:
ghost - 3"
bat - 4"
pumpkin - 3.5"
15. Poke the arm stick openings inward, then . . .
. . . insert the stick through both openings,
attempting to keep the "corners" directing inward.
Adjust the stick to be centered, then . . . 
. . . apply glue near the hole to help attach
stick in place. Moving the stick inward and
outward slightly may help spread glue
to areas where needed.
16. Select one of the back arms, then position with
center dash mark aligned down center of backside
of stick, and glue to stick. Allow to dry.
17. Apply glue to the front of stick and inside surface
of the back arm.
Position and attach corresponding front arm over
back . . . 
. . . and press tight on each side of the stick,
and also around fingers to achieve a good "seal"
connection and adhesion. 
NOTE it may be helpful to use folio clips along the edge
(all around) to help with joining. Leave in place until dry.
Here is a view of the completed tube with arms
in place.
Pour loose treats into the tube, or other contents
that will fit around the arm stick.
To close the top (of that version), bend back sides
inward, then back center, then front sides.
Finally bend the front section back (with end bent
at perforation).
"Seal" the closure with sticky dots, temp glue,
or glue the white circle seal.
(NOTE that the ghost and other box projects
have had distress ink or equiv. cheek accents
applied.)

BAT TREAT BOX
18. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)
NOTE the shape shown is for the simpler tube,
while the top closure will be shown in tutorial.
B eye contrast backer panel
C mouth contrast backer panel
D fangs pair
E bottom disc panel
F optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)
G & H arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)
Follow the assembly steps for the ghost box
except for differences: A) fangs attached below
mouth opening; B) wings in place of arms
as shown below
19. Identify the vert. arm guide mark on the back
wings.
Position and attach the back wing with stick aligned
at cut mark. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Position and attach the front wing over the top
of the back wing.
Here is the completed, closed bat tube box.

PUMPKIN TUBE BOX
20. A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)
B eye & mouth contrast backer panel
C bottom disc panel
D optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)
E & F leaf swirl arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)
21. Follow the assembly steps for the ghost box
except for differences: A) one backer shape is placed
behind eyes and mouth; B) leaf swirls in place of arms
as shown below:
22. Identify the vert. arm guide mark on the back
leaf swirl "arm".
Position and attach the back leaf arm with stick aligned
at cut mark. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Position and attach the front leaf arm over the top
of the back leaf arm.
Here is the completed pumpkin tube box.

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