Decorated box composed of “body” base with “hat” lid
has dimensional composed features
(legs & boots,
arms & hands, nose & inset mouth, and more)
plus
front panel overlays and insets.
Construct the box as a unique decoration,
or
give as a memorable container for a fun seasonal treasure.
Box measures approx.
8” tall x 5.5” wide x 1.5” deep (main cav)
when fully assembled and closed.
Use 7/8”
wooden dowel cut-offs to reinforce legs
(or alternatively, the included paper
slice-form inserts)
and black felt-tip fine point marker to darken
teeth
divisions, side curls, glove thumb definition and
front hair strokes.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main body "base" box hull
B mouth inset tray box
C hull interior upper edge reinforcements (2)
D hull interior legs anchor platform (shows thru as waistcoat)
(NOTE this shape has been modified to include a front
lower edge tab extension)
E leg tubes (2) with wood dowel cut-to-size stubs
F curl "tubes" (2 left, 2 right) G curl face plates (2 L, 2 R)
H epaulettes (2) I sleeve tubes (1 L, 1 R)
J cuff with emblem (2 ea.)
K glove box and L front overlay (1 L, 1 R)
M interior platform cover (conceals leg tube ends)
O face overlay P cheek insets (2)
Q eyebrows, eyes, pupils
R dimensional nose inset
S jacket overlay (1 L, 1 R)
T button inlays (6) U teeth strips (2)
V buckle W belt overlay
X lower jacket overlays (1L, 1R)
Y jacket turn-backs (1 L, 1R)
HAT SHAPES:
H1 crown cavity boxing with end boxing (2)
H2 crown front & back panels (2)
H3 crown front overlays (2)
H4 hat back overlay
H5 hat front panel H6 front rim trim, cockade base
H7 cockade build up shapes (3-4 each)
BOOT SHAPES, OPT. STRUTS
**NOTE the boot shape was modified after tutorial
images were shot to separate the sole with tabs bottom
shape from the "upper" arc with tab shapes
S1 boot upper (1L, 1R) with emblem overlay (2)
S2 boot sole base (1L, 1R)
S3 interior sole build up
to anchor leg tube (2 sets 4-5 ea.)
S4 exterior sole build up (2 sets 4-5 ea.)
S5 opt. leg strut sets (2) in place of dowel stubs
2. Layer boot sole interior stacks and glue together,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible.
In similar manner, layer whole sole shape stacks
and glue together.
Press the stacks under a heavy flat weight such as
a thick book or a repurposed fabric-covered weight
such as the weight shown here, until dry.
Do this for all liquid-glued layers to help minimize
warping or curling.
3. Position hat front rim accent over front panel
with upper and side edges matching and glue in place.
4. Layer cockade shapes into stacks and glue.
Press until dry, then . . .
Stack into finished cockade shape, centering
the "button" portions of each at rounded end.
of the eye white circles and glue in place.
NOTE the "highlight" circle cutout will eventually
be positioned at the "2 o'clock" angle.
6. Add ink line accents to the wig by carefully tracing
along the curve cuts.
Add ink lines to the teeth strips by laying a straight
edge at each of vertical dash cut marks and
marking a straight line from top to bottom of strip
using a permanent fine line marker such as
this Pigma Micron 05 pen.
7. Prepare the leg tube by bending back on all
perforation lines for segments, top and bottom edge
tabs and bottom "cap". Prepare left & right legs.
8. Form the shape into a tube to overlap the straight
edge across the opposite narrow flange tab,
adjust top to bottom, then glue to join seam.
NOTE that if using wood dowel insert stubs, use
the uncut dowel as a gluing form to wrap leg tube
around, pushing to help seam overlap and alignment.
9. At bottom "cap" end, bend tabs inward to perpendicular
then bend cap down, adjust for centering,
then glue in place.
10. If using the card stock strut interlocking shapes
in place of dowel stubs, these are the three shapes
to be used, with two sets cut.
Slide the long slit "downward" shape over upper end
of the double-slit shape and push down fully
(until upper straight end edges align).
Next, spread the first two strips into 'X' form,
then slide the upward slit shape up from bottom center.
Push up fully to form this 6-strut "star".
Bend leg upper edge tabs outward slightly to
allow the star assembly to fit inside tube, with . . .
. . . strips arranged at 6 of the 8 angles of the tube.
Push down fully so that assembly is fully
within tube.
11. To cut dowel stubs to size, use ONE of the strut
shapes as guide to mark the stub length onto dowel,
then cut the dowel to size, "losing" the line
during the cutting. Repeat for second stub.
Fit the stub into the tube and fully push inside.
(Add glue to bottom, sides as desired).
12. Prepare the boot upper arc and main sole shape
by bending back at all perforation lines for tabs
and segments.
13. On the backside of the sole shape, position
the interior sole build up stack over the octagon
cut out, adjust so that opening cut edges align as
precisely as possible, then attach in place.
14. On the underside of sole, position, align
and attach the ext. sole build up stack with edges
matched up as precisely as possible.
Press the sole assemblies under flat weight.
15. Form the upper into a cone to overlap the plain
edge across the opposite end tab to perf line,
adjust to align top and bottom, then join seam.
16. When stacks and seams are dry, bend sole
edge tabs inward, apply glue, then position the upper
cone ring over the top, with front, back and other
edges aligned, and fit the upper over the sole.
Push down until the lower cut edge of upper matches
edges of main sole shape - ext. sole build up stack
should still be completely or mostly visible.
(Make sure both boots are completed identically.)
17. Apply glue to the sole octagon recess inside of boot
then position/rotate leg to align edges with boot
as it is inserted through boot top opening.
Adjust so leg end seats completely into interior stack,
then working on a flat surface, push in firmly until
leg is correctly and fully attaching in an upright,
perpendicular angle.
ARM & GLOVE BOXES
18. Prepare the glove box shape by bending back
on all segment and tab perforation lines, except . . .
. . . upper edge tabs are bent forward.
19. Form the shape into a tube to bring seam
edges together, overlap straight edge across
opposite tab to per line, align lower edges of
round-top segment and short tab-attached
segments, then join seam.
20. Bend three edge tabs on both sides
of glove inward. Curl the extension back toward
the bottom of curved-top segment to tuck end tab
behind the straight edge to join seam. Then . . .
. . . bend the multiple segment perforation lines
into stair-step formation to align with side segment
edges and glue in place. NOTE it may be helpful
to use the edge of a blade tool such as this spatula
to push inward to assist the shaping and attaching.
21. Prepare arm box by bending back on all
perforations lines for segments and tabs.
22. Position glove box at bottom panel with
rectangular window with rounded tab face aligned
on same plane with back (widest segment) panel,
then insert tabs through window until perf lines
align at window edges.
On the inside, bend three tabs back and glue
to underside of window panel. NOTE that
curved extension "tab" has NO perforation
and remains unbent.
23. Pivot the glove/panel back and . . .
. . . attach the rounded
tab in place to arm panel.
24. Prepare to form the arm shape by bending
bottom end tabs back to perpendicular and
applying adhesive to tabs, then . . .
. . . form arm into a tube, wrapping lower edge
around wrist end tabs , overlapping plain
edge across tab to join seam. Check and adjust
edges for precise alignment.
25. Bend top end tabs inward, add glue,
then bend top panel down into place,
adjusting for edge alignment.
26. Arrange the arms pair back to back with flat
faces together, then identify the front-facing surfaces
of gloves. Position and attach the front overlays
with edges aligned as can be.
Use fine tip marker pen to fill in space for
fingers/thumb definition.
27. Form the cuff shape by bending back on all
perf lines. Apply glue to cuff lower and side edges
then position and attach at arm lower edges
and side back edges. NOTE that cuff angled away
from arm at top front (NOT flush).
Add slight bend shape to emblem accent to
match cuff angles, then position and attach.
28. Prepare the epaulette shape by bending edge
panels and wedge tabs back.
29. Bend edge panels into place so that tiny
straight edges overlap wedge tabs to perf line,
then join at each of the four short seams.
NOTE it may be helpful to use the tip of a spatula
tool or equivalent to apply pressure at seams
as they are being glued.
30. Apply glue to epaulette underside, then
place onto arm top surface with back edges
aligned, and attach in place.
HAIR CURL BOXES
31. Prepare each of 2 left and 2 right curl boxes
by bending back on all perf lines for panels
and tabs or flanges.
32. Roll the shape into a partial tube, bend
end tabs inward to perpendicular, then bend
end "cap" into position. Adjust segment bend
edges to align with cap edges, and glue in place
NOTE that the tube is NOT fully formed, but
has a long opening where flanges are bent inward.
33. Arrange each curl box with long panel as TOP,
then position the spiral-cut out front panel on
the front with "tail" pointing inward along top edge
as shown, and glue in place. (Prepare 2 left and
2 right curls.)
Add detail by filling in the curl with fine tip marker.
FACE AND FRONT DETAILS
34. Prepare the dimensional nose shape by
bending forward the side tabs, and bending
forward on the center pair of perf lines.
35. Prepare the face panel by bending back on
the two perf lines.
36. Insert each nose side tab into the face slots . . .
. . . then bend outward and glue in place on
face backside.
This is how the face panel should appear with
nose in position.
37. Prepare the belt shape by bending back on
outer perf lines. Center contrast buckle shape
at center - marked by side-position dash marks.
38. Position and attach the turn-back accents
at the inward angle edges of lower jacket overlays.
38. Prepare the mouth inset tray by bending edge
flange tabs back, and all forward at all other perforations.
39. Bend the tray walls forward/upward with end
mini tabs wrapped around behind opposite plain
edges of top and bottom walls, then join corner
seams.
40. Prepare main hull "body" base box by bending
back on perforation lines for front, back, side
and bottom panels and tabs.
Also, bend the interior tabs back within
the octagon leg openings.
41. Reverse the hull shape to position and attach
the rim reinforcements along top edges of
front and back panels. (Press with flat weights.)
42. Complete the hull's bottom side seams.
43. Slot the mouth inset tray into the rectangle
window, and attach the flange tabs to hull.
44. Position and attach the face overlay onto upper
portion of front hull, with perf lines at hull edge
angles and upper cut edges even.
45. Position and attach other front accents:
eyes, eyebrows, cheeks, teeth strips.
Position the hair overlay in manner similar to
how face was positioned and attached.
NOTE if hair back side edges extend beyond
back hull edges, carefully trim to be even.
Add jacket side panel overlays by wrapping
around hull sides right under face panels and
snug against teeth panels. Insert and attach
buttons into cut outs.
LEGS AND INTERIOR PLATFORM
46. Bend edge panels of platform back to
perpendicular and front bottom tab back.
Insert into hull at bottom and swing front panel
behind leg opening tabs so that front panel
sits snugly into bottom hull angle, tab against
hull floor; glue panel and tab in place.
47. Orient each leg/boot with emblem forward,
then insert tops through hull openings, then . . .
. . . swing platform into position so that leg tops
can fit through openings to the position where
tab perforations are even with cut out edges.
Add glue at each leg tab, then bend outward and
attach to platform.
48. Apply glue between platform side panels
and hull wall and attach in place.
Apply glue to back panel, then . . .
. . . close hull back, tucking side flange tab
behind side wall (between platform side panel
and hull side wall), adjust for fit and alignment,
and glue in place.
49. Apply adhesive to the underside of
opt. masking panel, then insert and position
at top of panel to hide legs construction.
HAT "LID" ASSEMBLY
50. Prepare the main hat boxing strip by bending
back on all perforations for segments and tabs.
behind tab with edge tucked snugly into angle,
and glue in place.
Continue to bend segments into position along
panel, pushing edge into tab angle, and gluing
in place until all are attached.
Repeat for back panel onto opposite side
of boxing.
NOTE it may be helpful to reverse the assembly
on a flat surface and apply fingertip pressure
from the inside/backside.
52. Prepare each side brim boxing extension by
bending side tabs back, bottom notched tab back,
top narrow tab slightly forward. Form each into the shape
shown, mirroring the whole front overlay extensions.
53. Position so that the bottom tab can be inserted
into the LID cavity along bottom side edge and
attached in place.
54. Bend into shape and position so that the upper
narrow tab perf line can align with first boxing perf line.
Position as described, then glue tab above perf line
to boxing. (Repeat for both sides.)
55. Apply glue to front panel and extension tabs,
then position the front overlay onto LID assembly,
and adjust extension boxing tabs so bend edges
line up precisely with overlay edges.
Repeat for backside and back panel.
56. Position and attach the front accent hat panel
with bottom curved edges and side edges aligned
with assembly. Repeat for plain back accent panel.
57. Glue the base accent (blue) circle into the hat
recess, then position the cockade with circular
end centered over accent circle, angled as desired
and glue in place.
58. Fit the hat over the top of the hull, and
carefully slide down fully into place.
59. Position top curl with long flange tabs
and opening inward toward hull, and glue
in place just below the rim edge of hat.
Repeat for second curl abutted below first.
Repeat for the pair of curls on opposite side.
60. Dry fit the arm in position directly and snugly
below bottom curl, mark where hull side panel
extend on arm inward face, then apply glue
accordingly and reposition to attached,
centered front-to-back on side wall.
Repeat for second arm.
Here is the completed nutcracker box.
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