Stick 3D Star Decoration

Five dimensional, flat-bottom “stick” posts interconnect 

with end “tab” punch holes aligning to form 

a traditional pentagram star decoration 

to stand on a shelf or hang from nail or peg. 

Add your own decorative touches, including 

adhesive enamel dots at end tabs, 

twine wraps at intersections, purchased berry sprigs, 

ribbon and flowers. 

Measures approx. 10.8” wide x 10.37” tall. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A stick "post" shapes (2)

B long half-length strut inserts for A (4)

C stick "post" shape (1)

D short strut insert for C (1)

E long half-length strut inserts for C (1)

F stick "post" shapes (2)

G short strut inserts for F (4)

2. Prepare the A sticks by bending back carefully on 

each of the long perforation lines and crease . . . 

. . . including the narrow margin lines toward

the center of the series of perforation lines.

3. TABS at ends need special care:

the BOTTOM tab indicated in the following image

 is not bent (no perforations), whereas . . . 

. . . the TOP tab is bent back at the inward perforation

and forward at the outward perforation.

4. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap

the side cut edge over the opposite long flange tab

to perforation line, and glue in place.

Take care that the tube does not twist during

this process.

NOTE: it may be helpful to use a wooden dowel

of approx. 5/16" diam. inserted inside tube as it is

formed to provide a "press against" surface

to help join the seam.

5. Prepare 2 long struts for each A stick "post"

by bending forward on the outer perforation lines, 

then alternate bending direction toward center

from each side, forming a 'W' configuration . . . 

. . . as shown in this diagram.

6. Compress the folds accordion fashion, and . . . 

. . . press and crease all along the length of strut.

7. Apply adhesive in the valleys between the narrow

folds, then repeat the pressing shown

in the preceding frame, applying pressure

until the glue is cured and the creases are secured.

(NOTE use this process for ALL strut lengths.)

8. Once dried, open up the strut so that it is

in this configuration, with two short "arms" at top,

and two longer "arms" toward side bottom.

9. Carefully insert the "long" half-strut into one end

of the post tube, with short "arm" extensions fitting

up into the top bends of the tube opening, with

the bottom two "arm" extensions fitting into

the bottom/base side angles.

10. Repeat the insertion of the other long strut

into the opposite end of tube in similar fashion.

11. With the struts pushed fully in from each end,

bend the mini side tabs in toward center at

a right angle . . . 

. . . apply glue to mini tabs, then . . . 

. . . apply glue to the underside of the upper tab, and . . . 

. . . bend the upper tab into position . . . 

. . . to attach to mini tabs underneath post opening,

adjusting so that walls and perforations line up

attractively, and align tab edges and punch holes.

Apply pressure to the tabs until secure.

Repeat for both post ends.

12. Repeat steps 2-4 to crease and prepare the post

stick shapes for C and F posts which each have . . .

. . . one or more "tunnels" to allow interlocking of sticks.

Form the post shapes as for A sticks,
taking care at "tunnel" areas to overlap
and join the wall straight edge with flange tab.

13. Prepare the various length struts for each

stick tube as described in steps 5-8.

14. Insert the appropriate length strut into

the tubes so that struts will fill the tube but not

interfere with the tunnel openings.

15. For the F sticks, insert the short center strut

from one tube end, then . . .

. . .use a dowel or pencil to

push the strut past the first tunnel to rest in

the center of the tube. Then insert the end strut.

 Bend mini tabs, upper end tab and glue in place

as previously described for A stick.

16. Prepare the sticks with tunnels by bending
the mini tabs inward with a blade style tool
such as this spatula.

Here are the five stick posts completed.

16. Lay out the specific posts in this

pentagram configuration to become accustomed

to the way they will fit together.

17. There is more than one correct way to assembly

the star. Begin inserting the sticks through the openings

of the sticks they may overlap in the preliminary layout . . . 

. . . such as inserting left end of B through C

as shown here, then . . . 

. . . repeating to insert A through the other tunnel
and also through the lower tunnel of the other C.

Continue inserting A through C and B until . . . 

. . . all sticks are in place.

18. It may be helpful to use a temporary tape

such as this masking tape to align and hold end tabs

together. Then remove tape on one end connection,

apply glue to join the flat tabs together, overlapping

ends and lining up punch holes as accurately as possible.

Here is the completed star structure.

19. If desired, use decorative twine, such as
Red/Cream color from TrendyTwine shown here,
to wrap 3-4 times around the short direction of
each intersection, then 3-4 times around long
direction (invisibly tie off or glue clipped ends on back).
This will help conceal the tunnel openings.

Add decorations and accents as desired.

Uncle Sam 3D Block

Block-y shaped box (lid and base) are joined

to present Sam's bearded face and hat, 

with build-up layers that compose brim, 

beard and mustache. 

Insert a painted wooden "button" 

(3/8" mushroom plug) for nose.

(Alternate shapes without button nose also included.) 

Layered star button embellishes hat. 

Measures approx. 5" wide x 7.5" tall x 1.75" deep. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A LID main shape
B boxing strips for lid (4)
C BASE main shape 
D boxing strips for base (4)
E interior support for base
Accent shapes:
F hat upper   
G brim face plus build up layers(3)
H face      I beard plus build up layers (3)
J mustache face plus build up layers (3)
K eye fronts and contrast backs
L star 3 layers plus extra build up layer each

LID ASSEMBLY
2. Prepare the "boxing" strips by bending upper
edge tabs and lower edge rim tabs back,
also bending back on vertical perforation lines
(some of these bends may be reversed as needed
later to match the LID shaping).

3. Identify the special symbol marking that will help

identify the position and connection of the strips.

For instance, the "top & upper left" strip

(as viewed from project front) has an arrow triangle

cutout in the center top connecting tab . . . 

. . . a circle cutout on the left end flange . . . 

. . . and a square cutout on the right end
upper tab (nearest the right end).

The illustration below shows the position of the strip
assembly symbols. The two ends of strips
that will be seams together will share the same
symbol (circle, square, diamond or X) 
which are cut in the end tabs, or
in the top (not rim) connection tabs closest
to the end to be joined.
NOTE: if it is helpful, arrange the boxing strips
around the LID main shape as shown,
main shape face down with strips bottom up.
Re-bend the vertical seams to follow
the ins and outs of the main shape edge.

4. Position the top left (longest) strip with top tabs

along the underside of main shape edge,

lining up the arrow point center tab at the center

segment edge, adjust to make sure segment ends

line up exactly at middle section perf lines.

Glue tab in place.

5. Bend the adjacent strip section into position

to line it up with the corresponding next edge

segment, and glue in place.

Repeat to complete the short end of the top,

then . . . 

. . . repeat the process to position and attach
the sections and segments to complete
the top box edge.

6. Bend the left side portion of the strip into
position, then position and attach each strip
section to corresponding LID edge.

NOTE that it will be helpful to apply fingertip

pressure from the inside of the LID as

the tab seams are completed.

7. Identify the adjacent strip to be added to

the first (top) strip already attached to LID

(square symbols in the case of this model which

is being construction in counter-clockwise direction

as viewed from FRONT).

Bend end tab forward to create a valley fold

where the previously-attach strip's end edge will

fit, position and join ends.

8. Continue to position (by bending the strip)
aligning and attaching each edge tab along
each corresponding LID edge segment
to complete the attachment of the second strip.

9. Identify and attach the third strip end. 

Position and attach edges following 

the same process.

Attach the final strip end, and attach edges,

except . . . 

. . . before the final strip segment is attached,

also position the end tab ready to attach,

and complete these two seams at the same time.

10. Bend the lower edge rim tabs back

and glue in place to the back inside

of the LID.

11. BASE strips have similar symbol array

for identifying strip positioning, 

but with double symbols for BASE strips.

Repeat the construction process for

the BASE, positioning and attaching the

top center segment, then completing

the first strip edge attachment.

Follow steps 4 thru 9 to complete BASE.

12. Prepare the interior support "strut" by

bending back narrower panel 

(shown on left in image below)

along horizontal perforation line,

also bending center bottom tab away,

side tabs toward the narrower panel.

13. Position and attach the folded-back

panel in place.

(This image shows strut completed.)

14. Apply glue ONLY to the end margins that will

correspond to the LID's brim wall 

interior surfaces, and to the undersides

of the bottom tabs, then . . .

. . . insert into the BASE in the position shown

which bridges across the width of interior space,

next to the wall indent of lower brim shaping.

Apply side to side pressure to ensure that

LID shape is NOT spreading wider than it should

by making sure strut ends are snugly next to

brim side end walls . . .

. . . apply pressure to glued-up ends, and

to bottom tabs also, until strut is securely in place.

15. Test fit - if desired - the LID-to-BASE
assembly by inserting the two together, adjusting
the forms so that the various edges
conform (this is a snug fit in some places)
and slide the two together completely.
Then remove the LID to attach front accents.

16. Prepare the build up for accent shapes
by layering and attaching the multiple shapes
for beard . . . 

. . . brim . . . 

. . . mustache . . . 

. . . and stars, taking care to line up edges that
should match as precisely as possible.
NOTE it is recommended when using liquid glue
to place a heavy flat weight on top of the joined
layers during the glue-drying process to keep them
flattened and to avoid warping or curling
until the shapes are completely dry.

17. Layer and attach the three size star build-up
layers to form one "button" accent.

18. Position the beard unit over the lower portion

of the face shape (model face has had some cheek

distressing done before this step)

with corresponding edges aligned precisely,

and glue in place.

(Pressing with weights is recommended here.)

19. Position and attach the mustache unit.
(Use weight to flatten during drying if available.)

20. Position and attach the face/beard unit to the
LID front, then position and attach the brim unit
next to and above face.
NOTE it may prove helpful to place the assembly
face down on flat surface to apply finger tip
or small weight pressure to the backside of LID
while the adhesive dries.

21. Add other accent shapes in place:
hat crown, layered eye fronts/contrast backs.

22. If desired, prepare a 3/8" wooden button
mushroom plug by painting if desired
to use for nose.
(If not using this plug, NO nose shape is required.
Alternative face, beard and mustache shapes
should be selected and cut.)

23. Position and glue the nose button in place.

24. Re-insert BASE into LID, and slide

together completely.

It is recommended 
(if not leaving as a BOX that can be separated) 
to apply a quick-grab
adhesive such as hot-melt glue or
Fabri-Tack between the walls, in strategically
needy positions, or all around
to secure the block shape in its best form.
Apply inward pressure as needed.

25. Tie star button accent with twine.

Position and attach securely to brim.

Here is the completed project.