Witch High Top Boot Decor Tutorial

Create some witchy-wear for your Halloween decor

using card stock, then add details including lacing, painted wooden bead,

wire spring to hold toe bat. Then decorate with the included shapes,

add "lacy" pumpkin pleated arch at ankle.

Add rhinestones, jewels, glitter - whatever you fancy.

Great alone, but can also be filled with candy.

Measures a large (approx.) 8" tall x 7.5" long x 2.75" wide.

Cut file that includes decor shapes

available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store, SVG Attic,

and the new SnapDragon.com web outlet.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

A & B shoe sides

C shoe upper with lacing piece, eyelets

D sole (includes extension that is under toe

E back

F heel box

G tongue

H ankle lace

I bat fold-over (with eye piece, swirl embl.)

J embellishments patches, stars, web

2. Glue the lacing shape onto the upper.

(Image shows eyelets in place before curl added. Safer to avoid popping them off to curl first, then add eyelet rings as shown in next step.)

 Before the glue dries stiff, ...

... add some outward curl to the assembled shape using fingers or a rod-like tool s shown. Attach eyelets over punch holes.

3. Prepare the upper shape by folding back the tabs.

4. Position the toe top corner of one of the sides shapes at the tip of upper. Match and line up the first 2-3 tab perforations at the curved edge and glue in place.

NOTE: it may help to work just a couple of these tabs at a time, and be accurate on this rather tight curve to make sure edge and perf lines align as closely as possible.

5. Attach 2-3 tabs on the opposite side piece in similar manner. Then join a few more on each side, working no further than slightly farther than 1/3 of the way along the upper (to allow for access for the sole attachment, etc.).

6. Prepare the sole shape by folding outward at cross perforation line at "heel" end. 

Add curl to the long section. 

Fold toe tip tab and side tabs back.

7. Attach the sole's toe tip tab to the straight tip edge of the upper. Allow it to dry securely before manipulating the edges in the next steps.

8. Bend the sole shape back into its position so that curl shape echoes the side curve. Align and attach 3-4 tabs to one side, wait until glue is somewhat secure, then attach corresponding 3-4 tabs on the opposite side.

Don't complete any more of upper or sole attachment until bat is attached.

9. Prepare bat's "spring" by wrapping a 6-7 inch  length of floral wire (mine is appropriately green, but gray would also work) around a skewer or similar gauge rod. Wrap so that the "rings" are fairly close together and very consistently spaced, for a total of 7 or so wraps, or a length or approximately 1/2". 

Leave approx. 1/2" straight wire end extensions.

This is how my spring looks when finished and removed from the tool.

10. Use pliers to curve the top of spring into a hook or loop that will provide more surface and better shape to attach to the bat's inside.

11. Attach bat's contrast eye shape behind the head front. Fold the bat shape in half.

12. Glue spring hook or loop inside the folded bat body area, then apply glue to the inner surface of body and wings, fold and hold until spring and paper surfaces are secure.

13. Use pliers tips create a small "cork screw" at the bottom spring end, so that it can be "screwed" into the boot's toe. This cork screw may look simply like another "wrap" of the spring, but tighter or more compressed, perhaps.

14. Insert the spring end into the tiny toe top hole, then spin the bat until the cork screw end has been twisted into the interior of the toe.

15. Apply some quick-set adhesive (such as hot glue) to the spring and the surrounding toe tip backside, so that the spring will stay in place. Quickly adjust the bat from the front outside, so that it faces straight forward, then hold until adhesive is set.

16. Continue the upper to sides, and the sole to sides assembly by adding glue and attaching a few tabs on one side, then the other, until all edges are secure. Take care for accuracy to align shoe edge and perf lines.

This image shows how the sole heel section bends at perforation to match up to the shoe's side lower edge.

17. Prepare the back shape by folding at cross perforation to define heel section. Add inward curl to this portion of the back. Fold the tabs back. 

18. Join the back lower edge tab to the sole's back edge.

19. Position, align and attach side edges to back edges of shoe sides. TIP: When working along the heel curve, it may be helpful to attach the tabs at the "ends" of the curve first, then quickly work to "adjust" the edge to match the plain edge it is being attached to.

20. Prepare the tongue shape by adding some curl to the upper wider portion only.

21. Apply adhesive to the upper face of the  lower narrower portion, then insert behind the upper/lacing panel, push in until top edge is slightly above the pointy ends of the shoe sides. 

Reach into the shoe's interior with fingers to apply pressure from both sides to help tongue attach securely.

22. Prepare the heel shape by folding inward at cross perforation lines to form a sort of open-top box. Add some curl to the tabbed front and back sections.

Fold the pointy tabs inward, and the end tabs inward.

23. Apply glue to the tabs of one edge, align at the adjacent shaped edge of a side, adjust and attach. TIP: attach top/outer tab first so upper perf folds of each adjoining edge align, then adjust the "curve" of the tabbed edge to match the plain edge.

24. Repeat the joining process for each of the remaining three tabbed edges.

25. If desired, add some weight beads to the heel before attaching it to shoe body. I have used a small baggie filled with acrylic "doll" beads to a volume that matches the interior of the heel, closed and "sealed" with tape. Baggie is tucked into the heel cavity

26. Fold the top tab/flanges inward and glue where they overlap.

27. Apply a quick-grab adhesive thoroughly (but avoid spill-over) to the heel upper flanges, then center under the heel indent and hold with pressure until secure.

NOTE: There is a "front" and a "back" to the heel, but it will work either way. It was designed so that the longer curve faces toward the front of the shoe.

28. Add some outward curl to the side upper tips.

29. Prepare the ankle lace by folding into pleats at the inner edge. Fold the long perforations as "mountain" folds, then fold the shorter folds as "valley" folds. Glue the pleats into shape at the inner edge (or neatly machine stitch across the curve lower edge).

Center the lace arch inside the ankle area, inserting lower edge approx. 1" below shoe edge, the glue the corresponding section of the lace to the shoe's back. Curve the front ends of the lace downward to sort of match the sides' front edges, adjust, then glue in place.

30. Add embellishment shapes as desired, including swirls, layered star buttons, saw tooth patches, and web. You may also choose to embellish with glitter, rhinestones, jewels, paper appliques, spider, or anything else you have in your treasury!

The model boot also has 5/8" wooden ball beads that have been painted and varnished, then glued in place over the lacing ends.

Here is the finished boot from the side front ...

... and from the left side view.

Finish your presentation by inserting decorative tissue paper,
candy sticks, loose candy, etc.

Boo Dimensional Display "Box" Assembly

Create a "spooky" table centerpiece or display focus

for your seasonal decorating or Halloween party.

Large finished design measures approx. 8" tall x 11.5" wide x 2" deep.

Decorated front is attached to boxing strips,

with reversed shape back that has two trap doors to

provide construction access.

Make your version perky, or creepy.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

A box front with pre-assembled decor shapes

B lower boxing strip

C left side boxing strip

D upper boxing strip

E right side boxing strip

F box back

G support strip

H finger hole covers

2. Prepare the front by positioning and attaching decor shapes (I have randomly held the spider and his string to the end of the process).

3. Prepare boxing strips by folding tabs back, folding on vertical perforation lines as "mountain" or "valley" folds that correspond with the corners and angles of the front. One way to accomplish this is to compare the strip and corresponding edge in a layout as shown here.

4.  Position the lower straight edge of the box front at the bottom boxing strip long base edge tab. Apply adhesive on the tab, then overlap the front's edge so that it lines up exactly at the perforation edge. Glue the two surfaces together.

It will be helpful during the joining process to turn the assembly over face down on a flat surface to apply finger pressure evenly in a side-to-side motion along the edge and tab until it is secure and smooth.

5. Bend the short left segment of the bottom boxing tab to line up with the next section edge of the box front, and repeat the gluing and joining process.

6. Attach the left side boxing strip end to the end tab of the bottom strip that is already attached to the front. To do this, overlap the new strip's straight end edge at the tab perforation line of bottom strip, make sure top and bottom edges/perf lines are also lined up exactly, then apply pressure to attach.

7. Bend the left side strip so that the next segment tab and edge align as for the previous assembly steps. Apply adhesive, overlap edge at tab perf line, and apply pressure to join.

8. Continue the aligning and joining process to attach all tabs and edges to complete the attachment of the left side strip.

9. Join the top strip end to the left side boxing strip in the same manner as done for the previous strip joining. Align and attach each of the multiple segments and edges along the top of the box shape.

10. Join the left side boxing strip in similar fashion, and attach edges over tabs. Pause the process when the final segment is ready to be joined. At this point, also prepare and apply adhesive to the final strip-to-strip end tab, then at the same time position the final segment and the final end tab, adjust and attach with required pressure.

Here is the boxing attached to the box front, as seen from the backside, complete.

11. Open the trap doors of the box back shape. Fold the back boxing strip tabs inward. Position the back over the assembly so that the shape roughly corresponds to the boxing shape.

12. Attach boxing tabs at back edges in the same sequenced, precise process as was used for the front-to-boxing strip process, using the trap door openings to reach in to apply pressure as needed.

13. Fold the support strip upper flanges down and glue in place. Fold the tabs back, and fold at the center vertical perf line so strip is in roughly an "L" shape.

14. Insert the strip, tabs downward, into the box's interior, centering if approximately within the box.

15. Apply adhesive to the tabs ...

... then position and apply pressure to attach the tabs in place.

Adjust the position so that the top of the strip will provide support under both trap doors (see next frame).

Make quick adjustments as necessary so that the support cross approximately under the finger holes, as shown here.

16. Apply adhesive to the top rim edge of the support strip that is still accessible to accomplish this.

17. Close the trap doors and apply pressure to the areas that will connect the backside to the top of the support strips until the join is secure.

Apply adhesive to the backside edges of the cover circles, then place one to cover each of the finger hole openings, bridging across the trap door edge to also join the back box edge in place.

18. Complete any front decoration not previously done.

HERE'S AN IDEA: plan and pierce holes down the center of the boxing area to insert a small, cool-burning mini lights from the inside out, leaving one or both trap doors unattached to trail plug and wire out.

HERE AGAIN IS THE FINISHED "BOO" BOX DISPLAY