Quilt 3d Display Stand

Featuring dimensional ends with heart cutouts, 

arched legs connected with hexagon tubes 

(reinforce with 5/16" dowel lengths), 

this quilt display stand makes a unique 

and beautiful decor accent. 

"Quilt mini" companion designs (paper construction) 

can be draped over the top pole. 

Or, stitch a fabric mini quilt to display.

Stand measures approx. 7.5" t x 7.75" w x 2.75" d. 

ASSEMBLY: 
1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A outside "front" panels
B inside "back" panels
C tall boxing strips  D short boxing strips
E arch boxing strips
F & G covers for openings
H heart insert fronts & backs
I heart insert boxing strips
J pole strips (3)  K front panel accents
NOT SHOWN: Z interior support strips (2)

2. Prepare the heart inset by bending back all the
strip tabs along both edges of two strips.
Also bend on the cross perf lines so that the strip
can form a heart silhouette as shown below.
3. Bend the bottom tab "forward" so that it can
tuck up behind the opposite strip end,
and glue in place.

4.  Compete TWO heart inset units.

Position the back side of the first "front" heart shape

over the bent-back tabs of the tabs strip,

with the inner opening edges lined up at

strip perforation edges. 

Match the point at

the center of the heart with the

center 'pivot' perforation, and also line up

the segment perforation edges at the corresponding

heart edges, and glue the top two tabs in place

on heart's back surface.

5. Line up the remaining edges and tab perf edges

along each side to center bottom, to line up

and attach each segment in place.

6. Position the second "back" side of the heart inset
by positioning the heart shape with backside
over the bent-back tabs,
adjust each tab to align with corresponding
perforation edge of strip, beginning
at the center top, then working around
as was done for the "front" heart.

7. Prepare TWO stand side supports.
Prepare the boxing strips by bending the
edge tabs back. For the side strips, bend the
cross perforations back. 
For the bottom 'arch' strip, bend the ends 
and end tabs back,
and bend the remaining cross perf lines
between ends forward, as shown.

Arrange strips in order (as shown above)
by referring to the tiny cut symbols near the ends
or in the end tabs, like the triangle shown here
that shows which ends will join as the strips
are attached around the 'face' shapes.

8. Position the first side of the 'front' face shape

to align the long side edge at the perforation

line of the corresponding segment of boxing strip,

and join.

9. Bend the next segment of the boxing strip
to align with the corresponding segment edge
of the face shape, adjust, and glue in place.
10. Continue working around the edge to
line up and join each segment of strip to
edge of face shape until sides and top 
are completed.

11. Attach ends of bottom arch strip by under-lapping

end tab beneath straight end edge of

symbol-matched end  . . .

. . .for both ends.

12. Position the segments of the strip around
the segments of the panel, adjust to align
as exactly as possible, and glue in place.

13.  Position and attach the heart inset behind
the inside face of the panel assembly . . .

. . . turning the construction to the face side
to align the heart cutout edges of each
as precisely as possible.

NOTE that it may be helpful to use a narrow rod
tool such as the spatula tool shown here
to reach between projections to apply pressure
to the tabs and panel backside.

14. Bend all the tabs from the first panel assembly

toward the center.

15. Position the outer panel backside over the

tabs and second face of the heart inset,

adjust, and glue in place . . .

. . . using the large finger hole, plus . . .

. . . top hole cutout, and . . .

. . . bottom "foot" holes to help apply pressure.
Shown here, a rod tool such as a knitting needle
is inserted into the foot hole and placed
behind the long side tab being glued in place
to provide a "press against" surface.

16. Prepare the pole strips by bending back

on each of the long perforations.

(Leave the end tabs un-bent until later.)

17. Apply glue to the long tab, then form
the strip into a tube to overlap the straight long
edge over the tab to perforation line,
and gluing in place.
NOTE that it will be helpful to use a 5/16" diam.
dowel as a "press against" surface,
to help form the pole tube.

18. Compress the end tabs slightly . . .

. . . then insert the end through the first side

support unit (from the solid inside

through to the outer finger-hole side) . . .

. . . and through the hex opening.

19. Bend the end tabs outward, flat against

the outer support face, and glue in place.

20. Repeat the pole end inserting process

for the lower two poles.

NOTE that is the tabs catch behind the second

opening edge, insert a narrow tool

to help guide the "stuck" tab into position

to be inserted into and through the hex hole.

21. Prepare the Z strip interior supports by

bending side tab flanges back, bending on

cross perf lines one forward, one back

to form the 'Z' shape shown here.

22. Insert the support into the large finger
opening, apply glue to the tabs, then slide
ends under the panel edge and glue in place.

23. If desired, cut three lengths of 5/16" diam.

dowel and insert one through the pole

opening at end, and slide all the way inside.

24. Apply adhesive to the backside of the

panel accents, then position over each end to

conceal the construction openings, and glue in place.

NOTE that . . .

. . . the lower 'foot' ends are aligned,

while other edges are offset slightly.

25. Position and attach the opening covers,

on 'feet' ends . . .

. . . and top opening.

Here is the completed quilt display stand.

Feathered Star Quilt Block Construction Tutorial

DOWNLOAD CORRECTED FILE
NOTIFICATION
If you purchased and downloaded cut file 
#54066 feathered star 12x12 block for sewing print & cut,
prior to 1-22-14, please NOTE that a correction for sizing was made.
Please delete the previous file version and re-download (after 1-22-14)
PRIOR to printing, cutting and attempting to piece the design.

Traditional feathered star quilt block in a 12"x12" size 
for patchwork stitching is now available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.
The downloadable file contains the full size templates needed
to construct (piece) the block, provided in three different forms:
a. Print&Cut labeled templates with cut lines layered with outer print lines
b. templates WITHOUT the seam allowances, for sizing ease
c. templates for this 12"x12" block that have 1/4" seam allowances added.

CONSTRUCTION TUTORIAL

Use accurate 1/4" seam allowances throughout.

Transfer and use alignment markings to keep patchwork straight.

Step 1. Cut the patches you will need for one 12"x12" block. Colors listed will correspond to this color sample arrangement, with the "background" shapes as darker value, and a scrappy appearance.

A - one med. blue

B - 4 and 4 reversed from varied med. blue

C - 4 from background dark blue (make sure straight of grain is parallel to the long "top" edge

D - 4 from dark blue background

E - 8 from cream scraps

F - 32 from cream scraps

F - 36 from dark blue background

G - 8 from med. blue

Step 2. Transfer the location "dots" from the A, B & C printed template shapes to the corresponding patch backsides for positioning assistance.

Step 3. Build the sawtooth "stacks" using E, F & G patches.

Shown left to right, assemble 4 of each:

short simple

long simple

short diamond

long diamond

For machine paper foundation piecers, MPF diagrams in pdf format for printing are available for these "stacks" by emailing a request to Jodi at hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com .

Step 4. Align the "simple" stacks, short then long to the appropriate edges of C triangle, pinning the seamline crossing point at the marked dot for each. As you stitch the seams for each stack, end the stitching about half way across the end triangle edge. (This seam will be completed near the end of the block construction.) Press seams toward C after each is stitched.

Step 5. Join the short diamond stack (bottom of this illustration) to the appropriate edge of D square, and the long stack as shown in sequence, using the guidemark to align the diamond-to-F patches. Press seams toward D after each seam is stitched.

Step 6. Mark a dot on the backside of each E corner at 1/4" seamline intersections.


(NOTE: this illustration is for general location purposes only. Illustrations are shown without seam allowances for graphic clarity. The marked dot should be where 1/4" seam allowances cross, and on the backside of the patches.)

Step 7. Join a double B unit at the corner of each C  unit as shown. Pin to match corner seamline dots, then stitch one patch edge to the dot, stopping and locking the seam as for an inset seam. Align and pin the other patch edge and stitch; press seams toward the center.

Step 8. Assemble the center block section by joining A square between two C sections. Press seams toward center.

Step 9. Assemble a top and a bottom section of block by joining one C section between two D sections as shown; press seams toward center. NOTE that the C corners at unstitched portion of the seams should be held out of the way to align and join the seam edges (at the diamond tips area). Press seams toward center.

Step 10. Join the center section (from Step 8) between the top and bottom sections (from Step 9). Hold the unstitched portions of the seams out of the way in the same manner as for Step 9. Press seams toward center.

Step 11. Reposition each unstitched portion of C triangle tip so that corner crossing seamline point aligns at diamond point crossing seamline point. Stitch the remaining portions of the seam at all eight area where this is needed.

BLOCK IS COMPLETE!