Monday, November 12, 2012

Binding Tutorial: Attaching, Miter Corner Turn & Splice

 This tutorial continues the binding instruction begun 

Step 1. Begin in a less-conspicuous place on a quilt edge, such as the lower right edge, about 8-10 inches from the bottom (less on smaller project). Open the binding, place face sides together with the quilt layers, and position the right edge fold on the 1/4" seam line. Skip down about 2-3 inches from the chisel-cut lead edge. Pin in place if necessary.

Step 2. Begin stitching, without back stitching, with needle piercing the fold of the binding. Stitch toward the first corner, but stop EXACTLY 1/4" from the opposite quilt side and back-stitch 2-3 stitches to lock .
Here you can see the stitching and back-stitching as the work is pulled away from the machine. Clip the threads close to fabric surface.

This image shows the binding folded back, exposing the quilt layers beneath. You can see that the stitching was stopped 1/4" from opposite quilt edge.

Step 3. Fold binding back, as shown, with unattached end EXACTLY on top of previous joined portion, then finger press the short fold at the end of the stitching. 
Step 4. Mark the "pivot" point - where the next side's stitching will begin. A length of binding must be "skipped" in order to allow binding length exactly at the corner for the width of the finished binding to create the miter fold.

Here, the seam gauge measures off 3/4", since in this example, the distance between the SEAMLINE folds of the binding equals 3/4". If a larger binding width is selected and prepared, the "skip" distance would be adjusted to match this distance.
Step 5. Insert a straight pin at the "pivot" mark, through the binding fold.

Step 5, cont. Now insert the straight pin at the intersection of the quilt edge 1/4" seam allowances. This should be the same place that the stitching approaching this corner was stopped and locked.

Slide the binding along the pin so it is snug to the quilt, arrange the binding length into position to stitch it along the second quilt edge, with the extra "tuck" of corner skipped binding making a neat fold.

Step 6. Begin the stitching for the second quilt side by inserting the needle exactly where the pin is holding the corner pivot mark. Remove the pin; stitch 2-3 stitches forward, back stitch to the corner, then stitch the length of the edge. As stitching progresses, continue to position the binding fold exactly on the 1/4" quilt edge seam line.

Stitch along the length of the second quilt edge. Repeat the process from Step 2: stop stitching at the 1/4" corner where seam lines cross, and lock by back-stitching 2-3 stitches.

Remove from machine; clip thread ends close.

Step 7. Repeat the corner "skip length" measure and marking, pin insertion, binding arrangement, etc. from Steps 4 & 5. Then begin and stitch binding to the third quilt side as in Step 6.

Repeat the corner process and stitching for the fourth side, and then again for the final corner, and for the part of the first quilt edge where binding has not yet been attached. Stop approximately 5" from the lead edge of the binding (see Step 1).

This image shows where the lead chisel end is in relation to where the stitching ends. You don't need to backstitch. Clip thread ends.

Step 8. Measure 9-10" beyond where stitching ends in Step 7 and trim away excess. In this photo you can see the straight-cut end of the final binding end as it was trimmed. 

Step 9. Arrange binding layers with lead end on top of final end, all excess length adjusted out so layers are smooth and even as they will be when finally stitched. Use a marking tool to trace along the chisel cut end of lead binding edge. 

Step 10. Move lead binding end out of the way. 

Use a see-thru ruler to mark a CUTTING line 1/2" beyond the line traced in Step 9. Make sure the new line EXTENDS the final end length - this is the seam allowance being added to the final end (1/4" plus 1/4" for the two ends to join). 

In this photo, the first line traced is UNDER the ruler, aligned with the 1/2" line of this 1" wide ruler.
Step 11. Trim excess of final end on the CUTTING line traced in Step 10.

 Step 12. Bring binding ends together, align cut edges, then arrange so that the 1/4" seam lines match up edge to edge. 

Step 12, cont. Note that edges will "offset" slightly, so that the angles created at binding long edges should be the position of the 1/4" seam lines.

Pin the ends together and pull them away from the quilt surface so the seam can be stitched. This will result in the folding of the quilt layers AWAY from the binding, and is the appropriate result needed to keep them free from this stitching.

When stitching is complete. trim away the "ears" corner points that can be seen in this photo at each seam end.

Step 13. Allow the binding and the quilt layers to re-align. They should now match up exactly, with no excess or lack in either. Carefully press the new binding seam open.

Step 14. Arrange remaining free binding so fold is on the 1/4" seam line. Complete stitching. Clip thread ends.

To see the final steps of the binding process, view

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