to hang from a counter stand or on a wall.
Sized at approx. 14" x 22", they will be great accents
to add energy to your rotating seasonal decor.
The series is available by individual month titles as quilt patterns
available from Hearthsewn Patterns (hearthsewnpatterns.com)
and also as cut files from Silhouette America's online store
(click to view the online store item here).
(click to view the online store item here).
Those with the cutting system and software can digitally cut
all the fusing-added fabric shapes that make this design so graphic!
Tutorial tips will be presented here for the fusing with fabric applique quilt
using either the Hearthsewn Patterns commercial pattern,
or using the Silhouette (Cameo) digital cutting system.
NOTE: The cut file includes a separate set of shapes for those which will need "underlap" extensions.
If cutting using the Silhouette Cameo, follow these steps:
a. Ungroup the shapes in the downloaded file.
b. Place the shape (or shapes) to be cut by itself on the screen mat, position near a corner leaving approx. 1/4" to 1/2" all around.
c. Use the selection tool to see the X/Y rectangle perimeter of the shape, then add the same margin mentioned above in b.
d. Cut fusing and fabric according to the determined size patch required.
e. Attach fusing to fabric backside.
f. Remove the paper (or leave on according to Silhouette's "interfacing" product guide instructions, if desired).
g. Place fabric on mat, feed mat into machine, send the cut job to the Silhouette.
Step 6. Cut the lower month name panel 11.25" x 4.125". Cut the letter appliques. Fuse the appliques in place.
TIP 5: If cutting with a Cameo, keep the letters groups as in the original download, then cut from a single piece of fusing-added fabric. When removing the letters, keep the surrounding "stencil" of fabric to assist in the positioning of the letters. Center the waste frame over the panel, then place the letters into their "windows". Push straight pins to keep the letters in place when removing the waste stencil.
Step 7. Join lower to upper panel; press seam downward. Cut borders:
Step 12. Machine quilt in the ditch at border seams, panel, at applique edges and major interior edges, on marked lines, etc.
Step 13. Use a hand baste stitch within the edge 1/4" seam allowance to slightly ease in what may be a slight fullness to compensate for the pull-in from the quilting in the interior.
Step 17. Center and pin the long raw edges aligned to the raw edges at the quilt top keeping binding out of the way.
Reverse the quilt and re-stitch along the stitching that attached the binding there; backstitch at each end.
Step 23. Cut a dowel slightly shorter than quilt top width, sand ends to remove burrs and slivers, then insert into the sleeve to assist the quilt to hang straight and even.
Tutorial tips will be presented here for the fusing with fabric applique quilt
using either the Hearthsewn Patterns commercial pattern,
or using the Silhouette (Cameo) digital cutting system.
If cutting the pattern templates only, cut shapes, then turn shapes over and trace on the paper side of lightweight fusible web (for stitching in place once fused). For large shapes, such as the main boot shape here, this method allows for "hollowing out" of extra fusing that will result in much less stiffness in the layered appliques.
TIP 1: As the shape prepared (either cut by hand or by digital cutter) you will want to make some notation on the front side such as "FRONT" so you can know it is reversed.
TIP 2: As the shape is traced onto paper, add a dashed line at edges where this shape will need to be inserted under an adjacent applique edge, so an extension margin can be added. (See dashed line near top of traced boot shape and at lower left and bottom edges.)
TIP 3: When cutting away excess interior fusing, leave a "bridge" of fusing so the shape won't collapse and distort.
NOTE: The cut file includes a separate set of shapes for those which will need "underlap" extensions.
If cutting using the Silhouette Cameo, follow these steps:
a. Ungroup the shapes in the downloaded file.
b. Place the shape (or shapes) to be cut by itself on the screen mat, position near a corner leaving approx. 1/4" to 1/2" all around.
c. Use the selection tool to see the X/Y rectangle perimeter of the shape, then add the same margin mentioned above in b.
d. Cut fusing and fabric according to the determined size patch required.
e. Attach fusing to fabric backside.
f. Remove the paper (or leave on according to Silhouette's "interfacing" product guide instructions, if desired).
g. Place fabric on mat, feed mat into machine, send the cut job to the Silhouette.
Step 2. Assemble the layered pieces (cuff or toe with "liners"), then the boot as one large applique, beginning with a base shape, removing the backing paper, then press it to the applique sheet. Continue overlapping the shapes, checking and adjusting positioning, then fusing the shapes together. (The blade and "Y" supports" are shown in position here, but it is easier to position these and the "sole" rounded rectangles at the final layout on quilt front panel.)
TIP 4: Leave lacing zigzag, bow and ties, and buttons un-fused until other edge stitching is completed, then attach and edge stitch these.
Step 3. When pieces are combined as desired, allow to cool, then carefully peel off the applique as one piece.
Of course, the Applique Pressing Sheet makes the assembly and positioning easier, but the same positioning steps can be taken directly onto the center panel fabric piece. It will require more "dry fitting" to make sure the initial shape(s) are correctly placed before fusing it and then building the other shapes onto it.
Step 4. Cut the upper panel (11.25" x 15.875"). Fold horizontally and vertically and finger-crease near edges (and at interior as needed) to identify center lines. Place a pin to mark the center lines at top and bottom of large applique shape.
Position the applique over the upper panel with centers marked. Also position the top of the boot approx. 3/4" from top raw edge.
Position the Y supports (extended at or under the bottom boot edge), blade, and sole shape. Take care to ensure that the blade bottom edge is perpendicular to side edges, that Y supports are straight and extended under edges correctly, and that sole shapes are level with each other and perpendicular to the panel side edges. Then, fuse shapes in place.
Step 5. Position snowflakes under skate. Center one snowflake, with center approx. 2" up from lower raw edge, as shown.
Position side snowflakes even with center snowflake, and approx. 3 3/8" center to center, as shown.
Once positioned properly, fuse in place. Also fuse the circle centers.
Of course, the Applique Pressing Sheet makes the assembly and positioning easier, but the same positioning steps can be taken directly onto the center panel fabric piece. It will require more "dry fitting" to make sure the initial shape(s) are correctly placed before fusing it and then building the other shapes onto it.
Step 4. Cut the upper panel (11.25" x 15.875"). Fold horizontally and vertically and finger-crease near edges (and at interior as needed) to identify center lines. Place a pin to mark the center lines at top and bottom of large applique shape.
Position the applique over the upper panel with centers marked. Also position the top of the boot approx. 3/4" from top raw edge.
Position the Y supports (extended at or under the bottom boot edge), blade, and sole shape. Take care to ensure that the blade bottom edge is perpendicular to side edges, that Y supports are straight and extended under edges correctly, and that sole shapes are level with each other and perpendicular to the panel side edges. Then, fuse shapes in place.
Step 5. Position snowflakes under skate. Center one snowflake, with center approx. 2" up from lower raw edge, as shown.
Position side snowflakes even with center snowflake, and approx. 3 3/8" center to center, as shown.
Once positioned properly, fuse in place. Also fuse the circle centers.
Step 6. Cut the lower month name panel 11.25" x 4.125". Cut the letter appliques. Fuse the appliques in place.
Step 7. Join lower to upper panel; press seam downward. Cut borders:
2 side accent borders 1” x 19 1/2”
2 top, bottom accent borders 1” x 12 1/4”
2 side outer borders 1 3/4” x 20 1/2”
2 side outer borders 1 3/4” x 20 1/2”
2 top, bottom outer borders 1 3/4” x 14 3/4”
Join borders in sequence as listed, pressing each away from center after joined.
Step 8. Machine edge stitch all exposed applique raw edges using matched thread. Pull thread ends to the backside and tie off, clip.
Step 9. Position and fuse the remaining lacing, ties, bows, and buttons. Edge stitch as before.
Step 10. Prepare the top for quilting. Mark quilting designs as desired. The pattern includes an echo design to place around each snowflake to simplify machine quilting, and also swirl patterns for side background areas.
(Silhouette Studio tools will allow a similar echo shape if desired. Use the offset tool at approx. .25 inches.)
Step 11. Layer backing and batting with top. Smooth and straighten layers, then pin well. Baste if desired.
Review the prep steps using a floor frame to baste here.
Step 13. Use a hand baste stitch within the edge 1/4" seam allowance to slightly ease in what may be a slight fullness to compensate for the pull-in from the quilting in the interior.
Step 14. Use rotary cutter and straight edge to trim away excess batt and backing, and to straighten and square up the top edges slightly as may be needed.
Step 15. Prepare and apply the front edge of the binding.
Step 16. Prepare the hanging sleeve by cutting a strip of fabric that matches the backing fabric (or other of your choice) 3" x width of the trimmed quilt layers top edge.
Press strip in half lengthwise, then unfold and press 1/2" to 3/4" in at each end, then refold and press.
Reverse the quilt and re-stitch along the stitching that attached the binding there; backstitch at each end.
Step 18. Pin the fold edge of the sleeve to the backing. Hand baste near the fold through sleeve and backing layers only.
Step 19. Fold binding over the raw edges, pin and invisibly stitch backside fold edge in place. (If adding tabs to hang, leave the top edge binding flat until after completed.)
Step 20. Prepare hanging tabs, if desired. Cut (2) 3 1/2" x 3" rectangles of selected fabric (mine matches the binding).
Stitch the long edge, press the seam open down the back center, then stitch across the top. Turn and press flat.
Step 21. Determine the width for your stand. The stand used here is "Columbia Frame Florence Oil Rubbed Toiler Paper Stand."
On the front find the center mark and place a pin. Position the tabs, evenly spaced on each side of the center and temp pin in place.
Un-do stitching of binding/sleeve so ends can be inserted between quilt front and binding. Pin edges even with layers raw edges and re-stitch across binding.
Step 22. Complete top edge binding. Position quilt in place on stand, fold tabs over bar to quilt backside and pin at binding edge. Mark positions and attach hook-n-loop tape, snaps, etc., or simply use straight or safety pins to hold tabs in place.
This is absolutely amazing. Had no idea I could do this with my cameo. Thank you for the step by step instructions.
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