This little "peeper" is a cut file design by Jodi G. Warner
is availablefrom SnapDragon Snippets - NOW through
Silhouette America's online store, and soon through SVG Attic.
Cut from cardstock and assembled as a lid and a base
(somewhat like a box, though it is not recommended
to put anything much heavier than air inside)
which measures approx. 4.5" tall x 3.5" front to back x 2" side to side.
1. Identify and cut the pieces:
1. Identify and cut the pieces:
A. "lid" upper body sides
C.upper body "boxing"
D. top crest pieces (3)
F. layered eyes & pupils
G. "base" lower body sides
H. lower body "boxing"
I. leg tubes
J. layered feet
K. coin weight or "ballast"
M. stir straw sections for leg reinforcements
Also shown: 2 small eyelets
2. Position and attach the wings to each upper body side piece. Note that the wing tip aligns with the tail edge near upper back.
Put a little glue around the eyelet hole area between the two pieces and leave the rest un-glued. Attach eyelet. Curl the tip a little bit so that it will extend slightly away from the body.
Don't want the eyelet detail? The cut file includes optional pieces without the punch holes.
3. Fold upper boxing tabs inward, and body sections inward, except for the perforation lines where tabs have nearly NO angle. Triangle cutout for nose is head end; narrower end is tail end.
(When counting perf lines from the left on this image - that is, from the tail end - fold outward at the first and fourth lines.)
4. Position the boxing strip next to one of the body sections. Locate the boxing's center longest segment (includes the top crest slot) and attach it with glue so that tab perforation aligns exactly at body straight edge, segment ends line up with boxing's angles.
5. Align and attach one or two segments at a time, toward head end, then toward tail end until boxing is fully attached to the first side. Repeat the process for the second side.
6. Assemble the head crest by gluing the three layers together (tab-less crest between the other two), keeping bottom tabs free.
7. Insert tabs into slot, then fold each tab toward outward to the sides. Glue tabs in place in the body interior.
8. Fold the nose shape inward on perforations. Fold tabs outward.
9. Fold the nose into a pyramid, with the end triangle side tab (without a lower edge tab) sliding under the opposite triangle shape. Glue triangle tab in place.
10. Insert nose pyramid into the triangle opening from inside the body, with the base edge (marked with tiny circle in tab) at the bottom position. Glue tabs in place inside the body.
Here is the upper body assembly to this point:
11. Assemble each eye by layering the 3 largest circles (largest on bottom, smallest on top) with the pupil circle centered on very top. Position and glue near top of head.
12. Fold the lower body boxing shape inward on all segment perforations, and fold all tabs tack.
13. Attach a coin weight (or washer) to the backside of the boxing in the segment that is marked with the tiny circles in the tabs. Use a good adhesive such as hot glue or Fabri-Tac.
(Weight will help the chick stand better, and can be added after construction is completed, if preferred.)
14. Line up one lower body side with corresponding segment of lower boxing, with the side longest edge (center bottom) next to the triangle holes segment. Attach tab to side body, then attach other tabs in sequence to complete the first side attachment.
15. Repeat the process to attach the second lower body side.
16. Fold each leg shape into a triangular "tube" with the tab inserted under the opposite edge.
17. Glue the tab under the opposite side edge. It will be easier to apply pressure if a long section of the stir straw can be inserted into the tube.
18. Insert "short tabs" end of leg through a foot triangle opening, from (top to underside). Fold tabs outward and glue in place.
19. Attach the second foot shape onto the bottom of the leg/foot unit. When dry, attach the third foot shape.
20. Repeat steps 18-19 for the other leg and foot shapes.
21. Insert the leg top into the triangle opening on lower body. NOTE that the front of leg "straight" edge should be oriented toward the corresponding straight triangle opening edge in order to have the feet face forward appropriately.
On the inside, fold the tabs outward and glue in place. TRIM with scissor tips the corner of the side-most tab if it seems to touch the body side.
Repeat for the other leg.
22. To add stability and strength to the legs, insert a 1.5" length of plastic stir straw into each leg channel through the opening visible inside the lower body. Here, I have used a longer straw section to insert into the channel. When fully inserted, trim off the excess straw approx. .5" above the opening.
23. Assemble the completed chick by inserting the base into the bottom of the lid. NOTE that the two will fit snugly, and that the tabs that are in place inside the lid may interfere with the complete insertion. Wiggle and otherwise manipulate the two until they are as completely joined as possible.
24. If desired, insert an 18" length of narrow ribbon through the scalloped chest slots on the lower body front. Re-insert base into lid.
With ribbon centered, ends can be brought to the top of the chick's head and tied neatly into a bow behind the head crest.