Five traditional patchwork quilt blocks,
created here from colorful card stock papers,
fit onto the ends of "quilt mini" that is composed
of two larger end panels, with three narrower strips
between, and joined by hand-stitched 'X' lacings
that allow them to "drape" over the 3d quilt display stand
(see separate assemble guide post).
Narrow edge side strips with end
'mitered' edge
strip replicate "binding".
Use block panels alone as alternate front panels
on the front of a 5x5 card front panel
(including a separate SnapDragon Snippets design
"Quilt card
evening star 5x5").
Blocks in this collection include:
Basket with Heart, Dresden Plate, Farmer's Daughter,
Log Cabin, Peonies.
QUILT MINI BASE ASSEMBLY:
1. Identify the shapes for the mini quilt base:
A main panel (2)
B intermed. panels: 2 wider, 1 narrow
C side "binding" strips (4)
D end mitered "binding" strips (2)
E intermed. end strips (4 wide; 2 narrow)
F quilt block assembly
needle (use smallest size that twine can be
threaded onto).
5. Insert needle UP from backside through nearest
hole (second from the end - to hide tie on) . . .
1. Identify the shapes for the mini quilt base:
A main panel (2)
B intermed. panels: 2 wider, 1 narrow
C side "binding" strips (4)
D end mitered "binding" strips (2)
E intermed. end strips (4 wide; 2 narrow)
F quilt block assembly
2. Position and attach the side strips
for all panels A-B, and the end strips D
on large panels.
3.To assist with assembly ease, AND to help
the quilt mini "drape" more realistically over the
display stand, place the intermediate strips
in order, edges aligned and abutted, face down.
Place a long strip of cello tape across the seams,
and trim excess ends.
3. Cut a length of twine or 5mm perle cotton
(18" or slightly less will complete one "seam";
36" or less will complete two "seams").
Position a 2" end near the second from the end
set of punch holes, and temp attach with small
square masking tape.
4. Thread un-anchored end through a tapenstryneedle (use smallest size that twine can be
threaded onto).
5. Insert needle UP from backside through nearest
hole (second from the end - to hide tie on) . . .
. . . pull completely through to the front,
(here and throughout pull twine through completely)
then insert DOWN through the end hole of the adjacent
seam edge, making the first half of the 'X' stitch.
6. Insert needle UP through adjacent end holeon first seam edge, then cross seam to insert
DOWN through second hole, to complete the 'X'.
down through next hole opposite, and so on,
to complete the first run of lacing stitches.
8. At the bottom of the first run, insert the needle
UP through the end stitch opposite, then
complete the lacing stitching to complete the
second halves of the 'X' stitches . . .
. . . pulling the needle through to the backside
after the final stitch. Leave a 2" tail and trim
remainder. OR . . .
. . . leave the needle attached to assist with
the tying of a square knot with first end.
Trim excess ends to 1/4".
9. Complete the second seam to join the
intermediate strips together.
10. Position main panel(s) at ends of
intermediate assembly to align seam punch
holes, then use same lacing process to
complete each of the remaining 2 seams.
(NOTE you may wish to use a short length
of cello tape at center to hold these seams
in place for ease in lacing.)
11. Prepare the quilt block or pair of blocks
for the design you have selected.
Center it side to side between the main panel's
binding edges, and match that margin
above the bottom miter binding strip,
then attach in place.
NOTE: for a display where only the "front"
panel will be seen, you can omit the bock
assembly for the "back" panel, but
this may make the quilt mini fall forward
a bit (because weight isn't balanced.
LOG CABIN BLOCK
(Take care that outer strip edges and base square
edges line up as precisely as possible.)
Create four "squares" that combine
to create the "block".
A. position strip 1 along one edge of base square.
B. position strip two with left end against strip 1
and bottom edge even at edge of base square.
C. add strip 3 and strip 4 in positions on base square
as shown here.
NOTE: if any strips are slightly too long,
trim off the tiny margin that may
overlap other strips.
E. add strips 9 & 10, 11 & 12 as shown,
then . . .
. . . place the center squares (13) in remaining opening.F. position and attach the four squares onto
the block foundation as shown
(this is the "Attic Windows" variation;
others are possible.)
FARMER'S DAUGHTER BLOCK
A. center and attach the center square
over the cross shape.
B. center and attach the cross shape on the
base square.
(NOTE that there are short hash cuts
at the center of each edge of the
base square to help with this positioning.)
C. position and attach one "arrow" shape
in each inner corner of the "arrow".
D. position and attach the smallercontrast squares at the inner corner
of each of the arrow shapes.
E. position and attach the block on the main
panel shape, centered between side
binding strips, and with that same margin
of space below block.
BASKET HEART BLOCK
A. identify the shapes for the quilt mini.
(quilt base and shapes have been
identified previously; this block includes
in addition the base block, side rail
rectangle strips and end post squares,
basket base and contrast triangles (6)
and heart.
B. attach corner post squares onto
base block squares, then fit and attach
rail strips between at base edges.
C. fit and attach three rows of triangles
onto the basket base square
(use the row dash marks to help position
longest triangle edges, with triangles
point to point), then center and attach
heart.
D. center basket assembly on the
base block . . .
. . . then position the block assembly
onto the main panel as previously noted
for other quilt minis.
DRESDEN PLATE BLOCK
A. identify the shapes for the quilt mini.
(quilt base and shapes have been
identified previously; this block includes
in addition the base block (not shown here)
with the 'plate' base, 10 'petal' shapes,
and center circle.
B. position 4 to 6 'petal' shapes onto the
plate base, with pointed ends aligned with
the shaped edges of plate base
as precisely as possible, inner curved
edges at the center guidemarks
(where they possibly align).
C. position the center circle snugly
at the center opening, then use
the edge of the circle to help align the inner
edges of the remaining petals.
D. Use guidemarks at the edge halfway positions
of the base square to assist with
positioning . . .
. . . and attachment
of the plate assembly.
PEONIES BLOCK
A. Identify the shapes:
(quilt base and shapes have been
identified previously; this block includes
in addition the base block, 'X' center stem,
leaf overlays (4), blossom base shapes (4),
petal overlays (4), semi-circle petal accents (4),
'diamond' leaf left & right pairs (4).
B. Position and attach the 'X' stem shape
using the center and tip alignment cuts
in the base square, as are being
pointed out here . . .
. . . and executed here.Attach an accent leaf over the
four leaf silhouettes.
C. position and attach a petal overlay on top
of the blossom base shape . . .
. . . then add the 'diamond' leaf pair below,
and the semi circle accent on top.
D. position and attach one blossom assembly
at each corner, taking care that the petal tips
fall at the base square edges, that the ends
of the stems fit snugly into the 'square' corner
of the blossom base, and . . .
. . . that the leaf tips nearly touch.(NOTE it may require temp positioning
and adjusting before attaching all four
permanently.)
E. position and attach block to the
main quilt mini panels as
previously described.
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