Saturday, November 12, 2016

Church 3D Card Holder

Unique display for Christmas cards. 
Or convert into a wedding chapel 
to hold bridal gift envelopes. 
Add yuletide "Sprigs Cascade" accent at front 
at opt. overlay punch hole. 
Add decorative nail heads 
as "berry" accents  or use cut circles. 
Measures approx. 10" long x 4" deep x 16.75"tall. 
(Requires 12x12 cutting mat for largest shapes.)

ASSEMBLY:
1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A body side walls (2)
B body end wall lower section (2)
C body end wall upper section (2)
D steeple    E steeple accent overlays (4)
F platform top layer with slots (NOTE pole hex holes
were eliminated in final project)
G platform build up layers (7)
H posts (10)
(unlabeled post shape was eliminated in final project)
I cross beam supports (5)
J & K roof structure sections
L roof peak support beam
M end under-rim "U" supports (2 each of 2 sizes)
Missing from layout: bottom under-rim "U" sections (2)
N roof overlay accent shapes
O side wall accent overlays
P end wall accent overlays
Q optional fir sprig & berry dots
INFORMATION: the paper used for the sample
project body wall accent overlays is the card stock
shown here: Classic Christmas "Classic Eight"
CLC008 from Authentique.
2. Prepare the roof structure sections by
bending back on all perforation lines EXCEPT
bottom edge "hook" tabs, which bend forward.
3. Overlap the straight ridge edge of (left) roof 
and overlap to the perf line of the other roof section,
adjust so that ends of seam line up, and glue to join.
4. Prepare the roof accent shapes by inking/distressing
the "shake shingle" scallop edges.
One way to do this is to use a sacrificial paper sheet
edge placed under a roof or group of scallop cuts,
then ink the scalloped edges. Move the sheet
to complete all scallops.
5. Configure the roof by bending back at the ridge joint
to bring the left peak miter edge to overlap
the opposite under-miter extension . . .
. . . pushing fully together, and gluing in place
at the overlap.
It may be helpful during this joining process
to insert a "press-against" surface such as the
flat face of the spatula shown up and behind
where the seam is.
It may also be helpful to invert the assembly to
place the seam area flat on work surface
and apply pressure from the backside,
carefully in the small space.
6. Bend the tiny rim top tab (see step 5 first image)
back behind opposite rim and glue in place.
7. Prepare the under-rim "U" beams by bending
side walls back to form the U shape.
Here are the two "U" supports ready to insert.
8. Apply glue to the side wall outer edges,
then insert behind the end peaked rims
so that they rest snugly between the fold-around
rim flange and the roof's backside (the "top"
 of the support should be flush with rim edge).
Insert the longest first, pushing upward
as far as possible, then insert the shorter one
on the opposite angled rim, pushing it up
as far as possible, to rest just below
the first support as shown here.
Here you can see both U supports in place.
9. Complete the bottom corner assembly
for all four corners
by bending end and bottom flanges and miter
tabs back in squared-up formation, and
gluing all touching surfaces.
IMPORTANT:
Continue to hold the edges in squared-up
arrangement until glue is fully cured.
10. Prepare the longer bottom edge "U" rim support
like the shorter support beams.
11. Apply adhesive to the side walls,
then insert behind the bottom rim and slide
fully, snugly in place, taking care to
center it from side to side.
Insert one beam at each roof lower edge.
12. Prepare the steeple shape by bending back
on all perforation lines.
NOTE the tabs on the angled lower walls
were eliminated prior to finalizing the project design.
13. Position and attach each of the window overlays
so that inner edges match up.
14. Form the steeple shape into a tube to bring
the straight side edge to overlap the opposite
flange tab; adjust and glue the seam.
15. Complete the first seam of the
steeple roof by bending two sections
inward to bring straight edge to overlap
adjacent flange tab, and glue in place.
NOTE it may be helpful to insert a
press-against tool such as a knitting needle
or other rod behind the seam to help
apply pressure to the seam until set.
16. Complete a second seam in the 
same manner.
17. Complete the final two seams
by applying glue, then bending the
final wedge into position.
NOTE it may be helpful to reach fingers 
behind the seams through window 
openings to apply pressure to
completed seams.
18. Position steeple onto roof crest
and insert the end tabs through corresponding
slots on roof assembly, then . . .
. . . bend tabs downward and glue in place
on the inside of roof structure.
19. Prepare side wall sections by bending
side flange tabs back and creasing.
20. Take note of the alignment dash marks
on the end wall sections slightly down from
the upper edge. These marks will guide
placement of the upper section lower edge
to complete the end wall unit.
21. Prepare two end wall sections by overlapping 
the upper and lower sections to position upper
edge at dash mark, adjust to ensure side edge
alignment. and glue overlapping surfaces together.
22. Join each end wall to the edge of a side wall
by overlapping straight edges of the former
over tab to perforation line of the latter.
22. Position and attach the side and end wall
accent shapes over corresponding body wall
sections, adjusting to maintain even offset
reveal at arch openings, aligning "leg" accent
ends at lower tab perf marks, etc.
IMPORTANT:
To help avoid warping or curling during this
gluing process, particularly when using
liquid adhesive, use flat weights to press the
wall sections flat during the curing and drying
process.
23. NOTE the positioning punch holes on the
front end wall accent shape.
Position and attach the optional sprig
embellishment with their end punch holes
aligned at lower middle punch,
swinging sprigs side ward in pleasing arrangement.
Add middle and shorter size sprigs . . .
. . . then glue berry circles over guide circle positions.
24. Join all the body walls into one long section
by repeating the side seam attachment
previously described.
25. Form the walls unit into a tube to bring
the final end straight edge to overlap the
final side seam flange tab, and complete the
final seam.
NOTE that it is possible to fold the walls unit
flat to apply pressure all along the seam
for a consistent joint.
26. Layer the 7 build up platform shapes together,
one by one, taking care to line up outer edges
as precisely as possible.
(NOTE the hex post holes were eliminated
for the final design.)
SUGGESTION: To keep the platform flat,
use weights to press it during each added
layer drying process. Heavy books, possibly
with hand fitness weights placed on top is
one idea that works.
27. Insert body structure bottom tabs through
the corresponding slots in the platform 
top layer . . .
. . . trim tabs to 1/4" in length IF pressing outward,
or leave as is and press tabs inward.
Apply glue and press to attach to 
bottom backside of top platform layer.
28. Apply adhesive to platform build up layers
top surface, then position and join body unit.
NOTE: apply consistent, patient pressure
to all accessible platform surfaces to ensure
that this joint is thorough. To prevent warping
and curling (when using liquid adhesive)
find weights that can be applied to edges
and interior until the glue is dried completely.
29. Prepare the roof peak support beam by bending
back on all perforation lines.
30. Bend end tabs and ends inward,
bend and wrap beam body to begin forming
triangular "tube", and join first end straight edge
to first end tab. Complete for both ends, then
continue to wrap and join second end edge
and tab, as well as long seam.
31. Apply "quick grab" adhesive such as Fabri-Tack
to the ends of the support beam, then position
at the top of end wall peak so that beam side
edges and wall edges line up exactly.
Attach on both ends.
Here is the lower structure to this stage
of assembly.
32. Prepare the interior posts by bending back
on all vertical perforation lines, bend the
top connector tab back slightly.
33. Form the beam shape into a square "tube"
to bring the straight side edge to overlap the
opposite flange tab to the perforation line,
and glue in place. NOTE that . . .
. . . the shape will allow flattening of the tube
to apply pressure along the seam on a flat surface.
Return the posts to the cube tube form,
and note the "X" on the short side near bottom.
This indicates the "inside" edge, which will be
attached to the inside surface of the body walls.
34. Apply quick-grab adhesive to the inside surface 
of the post (for corner placement posts,
there will also need to be glue on 
one additional edge that will attach to
adjacent wall), and also to the bottom end . . .
. . . then carefully position post behind the
lower structure wall so it is on the inside,
to attach bottom to platform,
post wall to structure.
(Corner post is shown here.)
For end walls particularly, note that the angle
at the top of the post sides should line up
with the angle of the end roof line,
as indicated by pointing finger.
Position and attach remaining posts.
For in-between posts, center the post behind
the structure between the arches.
"X" wall upper edge of each post should aline
all along the side wall upper edge.
35. Prepare the cross beam supports by folding
each in half and gluing the inside edges together.
36. Apply adhesive to the back side ends of 
each beam (I recommend quick-grab glue like
Fabri-Tack shown here) . . .
37. Position one cross beam to bridge between
side beams . . . 
. . . with the cross beam top edge even
with the top of the side walls.
38. Prepare to attach the roof assembly to
the lower assembly by applying quick-grab
glue to the bent-back post top attachment tabs . . .
. . . while quickly bending back the "hook" tabs
under side rim of roof unit . . .
. . .and applying adhesive to the "face" side
of these.
39. Working quickly through the next few screens, 
position and fit the roof unit over the
lower structure . . .
. . . checking to make sure roof is centered
over structure from end to end
(check margin between end walls and rim
overlap as shown here with pointing finger).
40. On the inside, make sure each of the
"hook" tabs of roof are hooking over the
side walls.
Apply pressure to these tabs and corresponding
walls where they are attaching to ensure a
good connection. This may require reaching
fingers through the arch openings, with
other hand on the outside to press against.
41. Reach inside to press the connection tabs
of each post to the roof back side.
This will require using a rod tool such as this
long pencil eraser end.
This completes the church structure.
To use this project as a card holder,
cards can simply be slid into position
between the aligned archways.

1 comment:

  1. Jaw dropping amazing, Jodi! I totally LOVE it!

    ReplyDelete