Stylized, decorative miniature violin can be
decorated
and used as solo display, or featured as
focal element of a
centerpiece, etc.
Violin is built of Lid (front) and Base (back) with
boxing strips attached, then fit together to form
hull sound box. Front
and back “face” panels
are thickened with built-up layering.
Dimensional neck
is built as hollow structure,
then fit into front hull cutout. Details are
added for realism,
including strings bridge, end pin, tuning pegs and
scroll
overlay accents.
Measures approx. 16.75” tall x 5.5” wide (at base)
x .875”
deep (hull) or 1.75” at neck scroll end.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A front panel build up shapes (5)
B back panel build up shapes (5)
C "box" front panel (boxing strips attach to this)
D front panel boxing strips 1-6
E end pin structure
F "box" back panel (boxing strips attach to this)
G back panel boxing strips 1-6)
H bridge structure with build up (short outer - 2;
long mid - 2; interior - 6 or 7 to fit)
I bridge build up thickness measuring window
J hull triangle supports (4)
K hull cross brace
L tuning pin knob build up (4 sets of 14)
M tuning pin main shape (with knob end - 4)
N tuning pin bottom slot-together shape (4)
O tuning pin tubes (4) P hex end hole covers (4)
Q neck side panels left & right
R neck wall pin reinforcement build up (10 each l & r)
S neck front boxing strip T neck scroll end boxing
U neck underside boxing strip
V scroll accent overlays left & right
2. Prepare the built-up shapes so that they can
be drying thoroughly:
A. layer and glue together the 10 neck side pin
panels, taking care to align the hex opening
edges as precisely as possible (here and
throughout).
When using liquid glue (recommended), it will be
essential to press the glued-up stack under a heavy
flat weight such as this muslin-covered cast-off
free weight bar or equivalent) until the stack is
completely dried and no longer cool to the touch.
This may require several hours.
(Use a flat weight for every set of glued-up shapes.)
B. Stack 7 tuning pin knob shapes into a unit,
to produce four pairs, one for each side of
the main tuning pin shape.
C. Layer the plain interior (no tabs at bottom ends) shapes
into a stack of 6 or 7, then stack the outer shapes
on top as a means of testing the total layers of
the card stock you are using for fit into the hull opening
where the bridge will fit. Then . . .
. . . insert the end with the 10-11 layers stacked
into the test window slot, analyze for snug but
workable thickness, and remove or add interior
additional layer(s) as needed.
to stack and glue up the determined quantity
of interior shapes, taking care to align cut edges,
and allow to dry.
Finally, position and attach the long and short
outer shapes with matched edges aligned,
keeping end tabs unattached (and bent outward
during glue up). . .
of the completed bridge unit.
D. Layer and attach the front panel shapes,
taking care to align ALL the cut edges,
interior cut out edges, slots, etc.
(Use a large flat heavy object to press flat.)
E. Layer and attach the back panel.
3. Prepare the box front panel by bending back
the neck insert edge tabs.
4. Identify the boxing strips for the FRONT box
and for the BACK box, and the positioning order.
Shown here is the first strip for FRONT, which includes
the numeral '1' at the end flange.
The lead end flange includes a slight wedge "notch"
to identify it as the end that will be attached first
near the neck opening end.
All boxing strips include a numeral to help
identify which ends fit together.
Prepare the front strips by bending the top edge
flanges inward and bend the segments back
(some will be re-directed later).
It may also be helpful to arrange the strips in order
as shown here, around the edges of the front 'LID'
in order to visualize where they will fit.
NOTE that the BACK/BASE boxing strips each
has similar numerals for identification AND
a circle cut out that identifies them as for the BASE.
5. Begin with strip #1 notched edge . . .
. . . to position the flange behind the LID edge,
with lead straight edges lined up, with perforation
flange edge aligned at straight segment edge
of LID, and glue in place.
6. Bend the strip so that the next segment's perf
line aligned with LID straight edge, adjust
and glue in place.
7. Continue the same process to bend the strip slightly
as needed (inward or outward) to align perf edge
to LID straight edge, until all segments of the strip
are positioned and attached.
The end of strip should align at the point of LID.
8. Position the #1 end tab of strip 2 at the end
of strip 1, then position under previous strip to
align tab's perf line at strip straight edge,
adjust for edge to edge alignment, then glue together.
each strip segment to align with corresponding
LID straight edge, reversing the strip bends to
be forward along the inward curved edge,
until all of the segments are attached as shown.
10. Position the #2 numeral ends of strip 2 and
strip 3 as shown, and glue together, then
continue to align and join strip 3, strip 4 . . .
end aligning with neck opening edge as shown.
NOTE it will be helpful to turn the assembly
face down on flat surface to apply finger pressure
along the flanges being attached from backside
as the attachment progresses.
11. Attach the BASE boxing strips in similar manner
as the LID strips, except the BASE includes
a top center segment, where the numeral 1 is found
in the flange. Begin by positioning and attaching
that segment at top center (NOTE that the BASE
panel is shown face down in the strip, just as
the backside of the boxing strip is shown here.)
boxing strips in order like the LID assembly,
attaching end tabs, bending at perf lines to fit,
etc. When the final two segments or so remain
unattached, prepare the end tab at the same time
so that as final segments are positioned, end tab
can be inserted behind the lead end and attached
in the same step.
13. Position the FRONT panel (layered assembly)
over the boxing LID panel, adjust so that the 'F'
hole and other openings line up as precisely
as possible, then apply glue, and . . .
to apply pressure to all of the surfaces being
attached together.
14. Prepare the cross brace strip by bending back
end tabs and upper, lower tabs forward.
of the BASE hull below the side arches so that
the end tabs bend into the angle and attach
to side walls.
At the same time, position and attach the bottom
tabs to the backside of the BASE panel.
NOTE that a guide mark at the horizontal center
will help with brace positioning.
16. Prepare the triangle supports by bending
end tab back, wall tabs back.
17. Form the strip into a triangle "tube" to join
side seam.
by bending the side long edge and bottom tabs
inward.
into the corner point by "pinching" the corner as shown.
bottom walls, then position the support into
the angle above the side arch. Use a right angle
edge such as this stamp block to press against
the outer wall to help the support keep the side wall
in a perpendicular position.
second triangle support. Also position and attach
the last two triangle support in the bottom half
of the BASE hull, taking care that these are
low enough NOT to show through 'F' holes of LID.
back on side, top and bottom "walls", end tabs,
etc., except . . .
tabs unbent to make slot insertion easier.
23. Form the structure shape into a "tray" by
bending walls back with corner straight edges
overlapping tab perf lines to join upper and . . .
. . . lower corner seams.
24. Insert the decorative mini brads into punch holes,
and bend prongs back on underside.
(NOTE: it may be possible with some ingenuity
to install violin strings for a realistic look,
by inserting string ends through the brad holes first,
then also attaching to tuning pins.
If that is your plan, wait to insert and attach brads
until after violin form is completed.)
portion of the front panel, and insert the long
extension ends through corresponding slots,
work downward into flush position, also inserting
shorted slots, bottom and top ends into
their slots when appropriate.
of the boxing bottom segment, and glue in place.
27. On the LID underside, bend the short tabs
back and glue in place.
LONG tabs will attach to the BASE inside later.
Tab ends can be bent back now.
28. Insert the LONG tabs of bridge into the bridge
slots, and work downward, until . . .
Attach tabs in place.
29. Prepare the neck boxing strips by bending
back side flanges and end tab(s). Also bend back
on segment perforation lines to match the neck
side panel edge angles.
The scroll end strip will have a rounded look as shown.
30. Position the long segment flange of upper boxing
along the corresponding long edge of one of
the neck side panels (right is shown), align ends
and glue in place.
31. Bend the narrow bottom end segment back
into position and glue in place.
to align the straight panel edge . . .
completing the remaining flange segments attachment.
33. Identify the end symbols then join the scroll
boxing strip end to upper boxing strip.
34. Position and attach the scroll strip segments
to the straight edge segments around the scroll knob.
segment at a time, OR, it may prove helpful . . .
. . . to align and identify the last segment of the curve,
position and attach it, then FIT the other segments
into position and attach in one step.
work surface to apply fingertip pressure along
flange tabs on the inside to help secure.
35. Position the underside boxing strip
long edge along the corresponding long
edge of neck side panel, adjust
and attach in place.
the segments on both ends . . .
. . . to corresponding
straight edges of neck side panel.
37. Position the remaining neck side panel over
the corresponding boxing flanges that are bent
inward. Beginning at long edge . . .
. . . to attach flanges in place all around.
38. Apply glue to backside, then insert the corresponding
left or right pin reinforcement build up panels
with pointed end toward narrow end,
to attach behind the hex openings with opening
edges lined up as precisely as possible.
Repeat for the second side and panel.
39. Position the slotted narrow end of neck assembly
into the neck opening of LID hull assembly
to insert . . .
. . . bottom end tab into slot, and working hull
tabs into neck slots.
On the backside, bend tabs - side and bottom -
down or back, and attach to inside of neck.
40. Prepare to insert BASE into HULL
reading through this entire step first. Then,
working quickly to apply glue to support tabs
of BASE . . .
neck lower edge tabs, etc. Then . . .
. . . fit the BASE into the bottom of the LID,
taking care that BASE boxing walls fit inside
of LID walls, also . . .
of neck assembly, and . . .
the bridge interior extensions, using a tool if
necessary inserted through 'F' holes.
apply adhesive along lower margin of BASE
to help join the two, then push fully into place.
Apply pressure to sides all along, especially
at inwardly-shaped portions, to help the LID
and BASE join together securely and take
the appropriate shape.
41. Position and attach the scroll accent overlays
onto appropriate side panels at scroll and along
bottom, with straight end . . .
. . . aligned at the inward edge angle.
42, Prepare the post tubes by bending back
carefully on each of the lengthwise perforation lines.
the straight edge over the opposite edge which has
flange with ends angled slightly inward
(that's how you identify which side is the flange
and not the wall section).
Consider using a 1/8" wood dowel as a wrapping
form, if desired . . .
Slide the tube(s) off dowel to continue assembly.
43. Assemble the peg inserts (instead of a
wood dowel segment) by interlocking the main knob
end shape slot and the base slot then sliding
the two forms toward it other fully.
(Ends will form 'X' shape when together.)
44. Insert the bottom (non-knob end) into the
hex tube, so that the insert wall edges align at
corresponding hex angles and . . .
. . . push insert stem fully into tube,
applying a dab of glue at each end of tube just before
the stem is fully into place.
Also apply a dab of glue where the bottom edges
of knob build up will touch the tube top.
Allow pegs to thoroughly dry - or the paper may
be too soft for the insertion step that follows.
45. Insert top peg through outer hex opening,
(through wall and build up on that side) . . .
opening.
Before post end is flush with opposite outer wall,
add a dab of glue in the channel, then push peg
in to be flush.
46. Position and attach a tiny hex cover shape
over the end of peg to fill hex opening.
47. Repeat the process to insert and attach remaining
pegs through openings, with covers attached,
alternating the side that they are attached
through as shown.
OPTIONAL: if you desire to add strings, figure
out a way to insert/attach through peg stems,
hide ends, wrap (pegs DO NOT turn), string down neck
and across the scallop "valleys' of bridge, to end pin
brad holes to secure in place.
NOTE: this could be done before BASE and LID
are inserted together.
Here is the completed violin form.
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