Lighthouse Large 3D Model

Set a nautical theme with large replica lighthouse 

that includes a recessed compartment to optionally hold 

a standard LED 1.5” diam. base tealight as lantern. 

Engineering makes this decoration sturdy for storage 

and recurring seasonal display. 

Octagonal dimensional base ring accepts the bottom end 

of tapered tower, with layered and built-up platform, 

and straight upper tower section. 

The framework and clear panel lamp chamber attaches 

to “cap” roof to lift off for tealight access. 

Other details include platform and upper railings, 

overlay accent panels for tower, upper tower and roof, 

side panel brick accent, door and window overlays. 

Insert top purchased wood ‘peg’ through roof dome 

shape to represent vent tube and ball. 

Measures approx. 14.5” tall (excl. peg) x base 4.6” across 

x 4.6” deep  when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: NOTE: the assembly is presented
SEQUENTIALLY, from bottom to top. 
However, it is suggested to review
the entire light house assembly process to understand
which layering steps could be done ahead of time
(windows & doors, platform strata, post anchor, etc.) 
rather than pause the sequential steps
when it comes time to allow a built-up shape to dry
for the several hours it usually requires.
(Refer to the last part of Step 12.)

1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A contour tower (2)   B tower lower stabilizer
C tower upper stabilizer  D opt. tower accent panels (8)
E tower brick mortar overlays (8)
F base dimensional ring  G ring accent shapes (8)
H tower/ring bottom "cover" to hide construction
Platform layers: I & J bottom build up for channel (3 each)
K interior layers (6-7)  
L second to top layer (accommodates straight tower bottom tabs)
M top layer where straight tower attached through oct. opening
O lower railing overlays (8 left, 8 right)
P lower railing joined main shapes (4)

Q straight tower hull with attached recessed octagon "lid"
R straight tower accent panels (8)
S straight tower insert to hold tea light and lamp framework tabs
T upper railing overlays (8 left, 8 right)
U upper railing main "connected" sections (4)
V lamp chamber framework  W clear framework panels (8)
X roof dome half shapes (2) 
Y & Z dome insert "ceiling" panels (1 each)
AA peg stabilizer squares for build up (7-8)
BB roof dome accent overlays (8)
CC window assembly: 3 sets
DD door assembly: frame (3); contr. under door (1)
and door with knob cutout (1)

Here is the package of the wooden "tie" peg that was used
as the vent pipe and ball detail of the model.
(This one was purchased through Michael's Crafts.)

2. Prepare the tower hull shapes by bending back

on all vertical perforation lines for sections and side flanges,

and on the bottom horizontal perforation lines there.

3. If desired as was done with the model here,
mount each brick "mortar" overlay onto a contrast
or matched plain-edge accent panel, with some edges
that line up. Spray-on adhesive was used on the backside
of the brick overlays for the model, to speed assembly.

4. Position and attach the accent assemblies or the brick
mortar accents by themselves centered within the sections
of the tower shapes (there is approx. .1 offset).

5. Position the two tower sections side by side,
then overlap the straight side edge of one over 
the flange to perforation line of the other, adjust
for top-to-bottom alignment, then join the seam.

6. Assemble the door and three windows (or more):

DOOR layer knob-cutout top shape over contrast base

and glue up.

WINDOWS glue contrast "pane" behind frame.

DOOR layer arch frames in a stack (match edges carefully),
then layer frame over edges of knob/contrast;
WINDOWS layer top & bottom frame members over frame.
(Press these under a heavy flat weight and allow to dry.)

7. Determine your preferred positioning, with door

at a central position with bottom edge at bottom flange

perforation line, and windows evenly spaced as indicated

here, but . . . 

. . . arranged within alternate sections (at least) so that

they will be visible from all sides of the tower,

or as desired.

8. Form the tower assembly into a tube to align

and join the second side seam.

9. Prepare the octagonal lower (larger) and upper

stabilizer shapes by bending the flanges forward.

10. Apply adhesive to the underside of the upper shape's

flanges, then insert into the top opening of the tower . . .

. . . and carefully ease it down a tiny fraction so that

the flange upper edge is just below the tower's upper edge,

then glue in place all around. (This will keep the "roundeness"

of the tower consistent and strong.)

11. Repeat step 10 for the bottom stabilizer shape

at the bottom end opening, with . . .

. . . flanges even with perforation lines for 
attached sections there.

12. NOTE: The platform at the top of the tower will be put together
in sections to assist with attachment to top of tower
(bottom layers), strength in the middle, and cut openings
at top layers to attach straight tower tube and allow
tube's bottom edge tabs to "hide" inside the layers.
Layer the bottom ring and interior octagon cut shapes
one on top of the other, taking great care to line up all cut edges
as precisely as possible, and attach.

Also align and attach the interior plain octagon shapes
in the same way, aligning cut edges as carefully as
possible as these are stacked one on top of the first,
into one thick, built-up assembly.
When using liquid adhesive, it is STRONGLY suggested
to press flat . . . 

. . . press all of these "stacked" assemblies under

a flat heavy weight such as this wood block, or

books or fabric covered weight machine re-purposed bars, etc.

until thoroughly dried. This may require several hours.

13. Select one face that will hereafter be the bottom of
the platform, then position and attach first the ring onto it,
taking care to match all outer edges as carefully as
possible. Then position and attach the whole octagon
inside the ring so that the channel that is created between
the two is even and consistent all around.

The top edges of the tower - an octagon - will be fit into
this channel and glued in place.

Reverse the assembly to attach the 'notched' ring

in place with all outer edges precisely matched. 

Press under flat weight.

NOTE that an optional shape that omits tea light recess

is included in the cut file. If you choose to use this shape,

review the following steps as general guide, then

complete the straight tower tube with upper tabs

that bend inward with octagon 'lid' that fits down over

to attach to these.

14. Prepare the straight tower tube shape by bending

back on the vertical perforation lines between

octagon wall segments, also at the top of each of

those panels, and forward at bottom tabs and top tabs

and octagon 'lid'. The top series of bends will create

the inner wall, ledge and platform that will hold

the insert where tealight will rest.

15. Position and attach an accent rectangle inside

each of the 8 wall segments, with narrow consistent

offset margin all around each.

16. Place the shape face down on the working surface,

and bend back the inner wall, as shown, and glue

that portion ONLY to the backside of the tower wall.

Ledge tab/flange must remain unattached. 

Also NOTE that the (right) end DOES NOT get glued

back at this point of assembly, NOR does the octagon lid.

Here, below, is the shape after the 6 segments are glued.

17. Form the tower shape into a tube to align

and glue the side seam.

NOTE that it is possible to press the tube flat
in order to apply pressure along the seam, if desired.

18. Complete the gluing back of the final regular

inner wall as in Step 16.

19. To prepare to position and glue the 'lid' in place

with its attached inner wall, adjust the tube into regular

and symmetrical octagon shape, apply glue to inner wall

backside, AND to the upper surfaces of 

the ledge tabs, then  . . . 

. . . bend the inner wall into position, and fit the octagon

into position to rest on the ledges . . . 

. . . as shown here. Apply fingertip pressure . . . 

. . . from above and below - through inside of tube -

to securely attach each edge of octagon to

corresponding ledge tab, working all around

until all are secure. Allow to dry.

20. Insert straight tower tube bottom edge tabs through

the top platform layer opening, then . . . 

. . . bend tabs outward and glue in place securely.

21. Position the straight tower base octagon over
the platform assembly top surface (see notch on
top ring), align edges and glue firmly in place.

22. Prepare the tea light insert by bending back

edge stand flanges, and inner 'circle' flanges, then . . .

 . . . apply glue to outer surface of flanges OR to
inner recess walls, and fit the insert into recess top area
of straight tower assembly and push in until rim and
insert are even.

23. Apply glue carefully into channel on platform

underside, then position the upper main tower edge

so that it can be inserted into the channel.

This may require a little work around the perimeter

to ensure that all faces fit properly in, then hold in place

until firmly attached. 

(This image below demonstrates how the tea light will fit
into the center opening of the insert, eventually.
For now, continuing assembly will proceed without it.)

24. Prepare the base ring by bending back on all

perforations for bottom octagon ring, side walls

and attached tabs, top rim/inner wall.

25. Position and attach the accent rectangles inside

the boundaries of each side wall area, offset with

even margins all around. NOTE: the accents match

the ring paper color, but contrast color would be effective.

26. Bend the walls back/up to bring the side wall
straight edge to overlap the adjacent wall tab,
to perforation line and glue the side seam.
Repeat for all 8 side seams.

27. Prepare to configure the inner walls by bending
the tabs forward.

Apply a dab of glue to the triangle extensions of

the rim panels and the tabs shown in the previous screen, 

then . . .

. . . bend the rim down and the inner wall inward

to overlap the triangle and side tab, and apply pressure

where the overlaps occur. Continue quickly to work

around the ring in clockwise fashion to bend each wall

over into the center and connect as well as possible

the rim to triangles and the inner side seams.

Apply downward pressure all around simulaneously

to assist the ring to remain flat (such as place a flat

object of appropriate weight over the whole ring.)

28. Apply adhesive (quick-grab is recommended,

such as this Fabri-Tack) to the bottom flange extensions

of the main tower, then . . .

. . . insert the base of tower into the base ring,
with flanges and ring walls "squared up", and
apply pressure until the two are thoroughly attached.

29. On the underside, position and attach the 'cover'

octagon (double-stick tape type adhesive recommended).

30. Prepare the lower railing double shapes by bending

carefully along the perforation at the vertical center.

Then, position and attach the overlays onto each half.
(These will give strength and 'weight' to each railing.)

31. Apply quick-grab adhesive along the 'thickness' edge

of the platform at two adjacent edges, then position

the railing section with bend at the angle, and attach

in place, lining up the bottom edges of railing and platform.

Continue in same manner to attach all four sections.

32. Prepare to assemble the bracket supports by

bending forward the top tab and the shaped side panel.

Position and attach the 'bracket' main portions of

a left and a right shape, with outer edges and

perforation bend edges aligned as precisely as

possible.

Here is the completed bracket.
Complete 8 total.

33. Apply quick-grab adhesive to the tabs and flanges
of a bracket support, then position under the platform
at the tower angle. Attach upper tabs to platform
and side flanges to tower. Repeat to attach all 8 supports.

34. Repeat  to prepare the upper railings in 

a similar manner, then . . .

. . . position along the upper edge of the straight tower

(use the bottom railing margin to overlap and attach).

35. Prepare the lantern chamber framework shape by

bending back on each vertical perforation for

panels and side seam tab, and for upper tabs.

36. Position and attach clear window panels on

backside of framework, using double-stick 

narrow tape at edges.

36. Form the framework into a tube to align
and join side seam. 

37. Prepare the peg anchor support by stacking
and attaching each of the peg stabilizer squares,
taking care to align cut edges precisely, especially . . .

. . . the circle cut out, to ensure that the peg post
can easily fit through the completed stack.
Press with a heavy flat weight until completely dried.

38. Position the stack onto the top 'ceiling' internal octagon

with the hole, lining up all holes as precisely as

position to ensure positioning.

Position (centered) and attach the assembly onto 

the bottom whole octagon, noting that there is 

a tiny offset that makes the whole octagon larger.

Press flat with heavy weight to ensure it remains

flat, unwarped and not curled.

39. Prepare the two dome cap shapes by bending

back on all perforation lines.

40. Prepare to join the two side seams by lining up

a straight edge to overlap opposite flange to perf line,

adjusting then joining side seam #1. Then repeat . . .

. . . for side seam 2 by bending into dome shape slightly
to align and join.

41. Bend the first two lower panels inward to align
the straight side edge overlapping the adjacent tab
to perf line and joining seam. Repeat for TWO MORE
seams ONLY.

42. Flip the ceiling assembly so that the peg stack

stabilizer is toward the dome tip opening, then . . .

. . . apply a bead of glue around the inside of dome

at angle where the octagon will sit, and insert the ceiling

assembly inside (under the rim edge) until it 'seats'

at the angle.

Complete the remaining seams around the lower
edge of the dome to enclose the ceiling assembly.

43. Prepare the dome accent shapes by bending

at the horizontal perforations.

Position and attach each accent over the wedge panels
of the dome, aligning the perforation angles,
and centering. (NOTE the accents for the model
match the dome paper color; contrast works as well.)

44. Bend the top tabs of chamber inward, and . . .

. . . apply adhesive to the upper surfaces. Then . . .

. . . insert that top end into the underside of the cap,
adjusting to center, then apply pressure to attach . . .

. . . it securely to the ceiling panel.

45. Apply quick-grab glue to the tip of peg, then . . .

. . . insert through cap opening and push down until
the end seats itself inside the circle channel of
the stabilizer stack. Hold in place until secure.

46. Complete the assembly by inserting the tea light

into place at top of straight tower, then place the chamber

and lid assembly over the tea light with bottom tabs

inserted into the insert's slots.

Here is the completed light house model.