Acorn Miniature 3D Box

Small size dimensional box is put together 

with 4 shapes. Stem is hole-punched for 

stringing onto a package, 

hanging in groups as mini swag, 

clustering in a rustic bowl, 

or pairing for a napkin ring or other table decor. 

Use optional non-punched stem overlay 

for a cluster on mantle, 

with a centerpiece or in a decorative bow. 

Measures approx.­­­­­­1.625" tall not including stem. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes
as labeled.

2. Prepare the base shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for sections and tabs.

Make sure all straight line cuts between body

and wedge tabs are separated.

3. Bend the pointed bottom end single seam edge
and tab inward slightly to overlap straight edge
to overlap opposite tab to perforation line,
and glue seam.

4. Working at the segment above the pointed end
level, bend the sections inward slightly to overlap
straight edge across adjacent tab to perf line
and join seam. Complete all 6 seams around hull.

5. Move up to the final two sections - 
one at a time - to bend sections
back slightly to line up straight line overlapping
the tab to perf line and join seam.
Complete all 6 pairs of seams around hull.

6. Prepare cap shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for panel sections, wedge tabs,

and end flanges.

7. Bend cap shape back into a slight cone

to overlap straight point edge across

adjacent tab, and join seam.

8. Bend the "side wall" segments back to align
straight edge to overlap adjacent tab, and join seam.
Join all 6 seam all around cap.

9. Bend each rim flange inward and glue in place

behind wall section.

10. Prepare the reinforcing insert shape by bending

wedge sections back on each side of

stem extension, to make it more narrow.

12. Open up the existing slot at top of cap
with a thin blade tool such as this spatula tool.

13. Insert the stem extension through the slot

from the underside of cap . . . 

. . . and push/pull carefully all the way through
so that shaped insert top edges are snug
against cap underside.
Unfold side sections so stem shape is flat.
14. Prepare the stem overlay by bending in half.
15. Wrap overlay over stem extension
and align so that all hole punches are fully open.

16. Apply glue along the "valley" at cap underside

between side walls and top wedges, then . . . 

. . . insert reinforcement into hull space while

fitting cap onto top of hull - this is a snug fit.

Push the cap fully onto hull, and hold in place

until glue is secure.

Finish as desired, such as twine knot and bow

shown here.

Acorn on a Stick Decor Assembly Guide

Autumn and harvest decor acorn "box"

on a stick, in medium (left) and tall sizes.

Base box has build-up platform to stabilize "stick"

(paper hex tube that wraps a 5/16" dowel cut to size).

Acorn box is built as base and lid with accent front,

and attached two-part leaf that attaches to acorn top

with attached punch tab. Acorn has bottom hex hole

to accent pole for display.

Sizes are approx. 10" and 11.75" tall.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the box & pole shapes:

A stand box front and top panels

B stand box sides and back

C stand box bottom

D build up to anchor post

E post hex hole cover (bottom)

F pole

G acorn box LID shape

H acorn LID boxing strip upper half

I acorn LID boxing strip lower half

J tie punch hole tabs front & back

K acorn BASE shape

L BASE boxing strip upper half

M BASE boxing strip lower half

N BASE inner pole support

2. Identify and cut the front accent shapes.

These are for the TALL version, and . . .

. . . these are for the MEDIUM version.

(Base box accent shapes are the same for either, as is the base acorn shape. Leaf shapes are mirror image of each other.)

NOTE: construction for the acorn LID and BASE, and box base is identical for both the TALL and MEDIUM "acorn on a stick" designs. The POLE construction is the same as well, except that the medium pole is shorter.


3. Prepare the boxing strips for the LID and BASE by identifying the upper strips (include triangle arrow cutout symbol or 'T' at center), then folding the tabs inward. Also fold the vertical perforations so that they follow the in/out pattern shape of the angles on the acorn edges.

4. Begin at top of LID, align top straight edge with boxing strip segment, adjust as needed to center, then attach.

5. Bend the boxing strip to align each straight edge with corresponding tab perforation line and attach edge to tab. Work along both sides until all are attached.

(Refer to "Shamrock On A Stick" , steps 3 through 6 or 9, a similar project to this one, get more detail on this boxing connection process.)

6. Attach the lower boxing LID strip by lining up the appropriate strip end to overlap the upper strip end tab to perforation line, adjust top to bottom, then glue in place.

7. Continue to bend strip, align straight edge to corresponding perforation line, and attach to attach lower boxing strip completely, including attaching second strip ends.

8. Repeat this same process for the BASE acorn shape and boxing strips.

9. Prepare the punch loop tabs by bending the bottom tabs outward.

Place the curved-top tabs back to back, then glue to attach tops, leaving bottom tabs unattached.

10. Apply glue to the bottom surfaces of the tabs, then position on the top of the acorn LID, short tab to the front, and glue in place.

11. Layer and assemble the accent shapes onto the curved edge foundation acorn.

For the TALL version, attach cap shape, checker rectangle base and checker squares shape, bottom "nut" shape, with accent strip at top.

For the MEDIUM version, refer to the completed project at beginning or end of this tutorial. That design includes same cap shape, lower "nut shape that has two accent strips to place at top edge, equi-distance below punch holes row to match top strip spacing. Behind the "nut" shape, attach the contrast strips for the punch hole "show thru" and highlight "show thru".

12. Complete the BASE box shape by preparing the interior pole support strip, bending the side tabs downward as shown.

13. Position and attach tabs to the interior side walls of the BASE box, placing the tabs in the second segment below the center top shape.

14. Fit the BASE inside the LID. NOTE that this is a snug fit by design.

Once the two are together to form the acorn "block", help them stay together by . . . 

. . . applying glue between the sides as shown, all around.

15. Prepare the base box body by bending front/top and sides/back shapes back on all perforation lines.

16. Join the straight side seam to the sides strip by overlapping at the tab perforation line, adjusting then attaching.

17. Attach the accent shapes to the assembled shape while it is flat at this stage (the sample shown here still needs to have the back accent attached), when you can apply flat pressure all over. 

Or, later, after the box is fully assembled.

18. Fold the base box so that the "side" panels form a tube, then bring the straight side edge to overlap the adjacent tab perforation line and attach.

19. Prepare the pole stabilizer "build up" stack by folding back and forth in accordion fashion, so that hex holes will line up exactly.

Apply glue to the set of "faces" on one side, then press the stack to join these edge.

Next, rotate the stack to apply glue to the remaining "faces" on the opposite side to attach all the layers of the accordion. Apply pressure until the stack is well joined.

NOTE that the box bottom has been modified to eliminate the "trap door" cuts.

20. Position and attach the stack stabilizer on the backside of the box bottom panel.

21. Attach the bottom panel to the tab on the lower edge of the box front panel.

22. Prepare the interior support panel by bending at the halfway perforation line into 'V' shape, and at end tab perforations.

23. With bottom panel bent out of the way, insert the support strip into the base box interior, pointing toward and touching the back panel, and adjust so that the side tabs touch the box inside side walls. Make sure that the support is fully into the space, then glue the tabs in place.

24. Fold the bottom panel into position and attach it to the three bottom tabs.

(This image does not show the stabilizer platform attached as it should be at this stage in assembly.)

25. Prepare pole shape by bending inward on all vertical perforation lines, including tab.

26. Form a tube to bring the long straight edge to overlap the opposite tab line, and glue in place. NOTE it may assist to insert the 5/16" dowel in as a "press against" surface to help glue the seam.

27. Insert the pole tube through the bottom hex opening, through the box and out the top hex hole. Bend the tabs of pole back (outward) and attach to the bottom of the base box.

28. Attach the accent side and top shapes to the base box.

29. Insert the 5/16" dowel through the tube until the bottom cut edge aligns flush with the bottom of the base box.

30. Mark the top of the pole tube onto the dowel length, then remove dowel and cut off excess at mark.

Re-insert the dowel into the tube, again until the bottom end is flush with the box bottom panel.

31. Position and attach the bottom hex hole cover to hide the pole tabs and the hex hole opening.

32. Slide the acorn box onto the tube, taking care to move and adjust until the top of the pole (with dowel) fits through the interior support strip hex hole and extends to the tip of the "cap".

You can apply glue to the top of the pole and the acorn bottom hex opening before inserting the pole to help attach it, if desired.

33. Layer the leaf half over the full base shape. While the glue is still pliable, add some curl to the layered shape by rolling it over a tube tool such as this spatula.

34.  Attach the leaf to the top of the acorn punch tab with twine or ribbon.  

This is the finished tall version.

Here is the medium version. 

Acorn 3d Box Assembly Guide

Re-creating one of Nature's autumn beauties

is this paper craft dimensional acorn.

Construct base and lid with leaves and spiral flourish

 from cardstock, then adorn with ribbon

or any other embellishments.

Purchase and download the svg cut file,

available from Silhouette America's online store,

SVG Attic, and SnapDragonSnippets.com.

ASSEMBLY GUIDE:

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

A base (lower portion) body wedge (6)

B base rim reinforcing hex ring

C lid wedges (6; 3 with slot, 3 w/o)

D stem shape

E lid built-out rim shape (2)

F lid bottom platform with slots

G platform hole cover

H lid decor overlay shape (6)

I small leaf with 2 decor shape overlays

J large leaf

K spiral accent shape

2. Prepare the base body wedge shape by folding on horizontal perforation lines slightly inward, top tab perf line outward. Fold right side tabs back. Be sure to give the pointed end tab perf line a good pinch to make sure that the edge is folded all the way to the tip.

3. Align one base wedge shape straight edge (on right here) with a second shape so that edge overlaps tab to the perforation line exactly. Each of the tab levels will be joined in a separate step. I like to start at the top where the longest edges will be glued together first.

Apply adhesive to the tab, then overlap, align and hold in place. Make sure that the top and bottom of the sections being aligned and joined also line up as exactly as possible. Apply pressure until secured (here and throughout).

NOTE that the top tab and narrow sections are not  glued to anything at this point.

4. Bend the next sections below slightly on their cross perforations until the straight edge on the right lines up with the perforation line on the left. Apply adhesive, overlap and attach this edge.

5. Continue working in this fashion, one section level at a time, until all the sections are joined to complete the first seam of this pair of wedges.

6. Repeat the process of steps 3-5 to add a third section to the acorn bottom. This completes one half of the acorn base.

7. Repeat the process of steps 3-6 to complete the second half of the acorn base.











8. Prepare and join the base halves.

Here you can see how the two half edges will align in the same manner as the wedges were being joined previously.

When one side (half of the complete seam) is attached, the configuration at the tip will be a "spiral" (where the tab edge of the second half will seemingly be on the opposite side from the first half, though in reality it is the same order as for all wedge seams). You can see what the end product should look like in the bottom view included as the second image in this post, above.

9. Apply glue to each narrow rim section at the base vessel's opening edge. DO NOT apply adhesive to the tabs at the edge . . . 

. . . then fold each wedge rim back into place on the inside of the vessel and hold in place, applying pressure along each edge until it is secure.

11. Prepare to add the rim reinforcing hex ring by making sure all of the rim tabs are folded outward into the interior of the vessel's space, at a right angle to the rim.

Apply adhesive to the face side (top surface) of each of the tabs . . . 

. . . then insert the hex ring into the recess. "Squash" the vessel's hex shape very slightly as needed so that the ring seats properly and completely . . . 

. . . then use finger pressure along each "seam" to make sure the ring attaches completely.

12. Prepare the lid wedge sections by folding cross perforations back slightly, and tabs back, as in step 2 for the base portion. 

NOTE that the bottom of this shape includes a long tab that will insert through a slot in the lid bottom platform, to be folded back to form flanges that help hold the lid onto the base. These include perforations, but it may be helpful to leave these perf lines unfolded at this stage.

13. Fold and pinch the tip tabs to make sure that the crease extends completely to the point.

NOTE that there are two lid wedge shapes that will be alternated in the assembly.

Shape 1 Slot wedge: three of the cut shapes should include the tiny slot that will accept the stem assembly bottom tabs.

Shape 2 Plain wedge: three of the cut shapes do not have slots, but have a notched top tab, cut so that when assembled the slots will still be open to accept the tabs.

14. Align and glue together the first two lid wedges that will be joined. I like to start at the bottom to align and attach the first sections or levels. (NOTE that the slot on these shapes falls along a perforation line that defines a level.)

15. Bend the wedges slightly to align and attach each of the sections in turn, in a manner similar to what was done for the base vessel, until the seam is complete from lower edge to tip.















MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE ALTERNATING THE SHAPE 1 AND SHAPE 2 WEDGES!

16. Align and add a third wedge to complete the first half of the lid.

17. Repeat the process to join three more wedges to complete the second half.

18. Prepare to join the lid halves. Here you can see how the side edges will line up, however, as can be seen in the next screen, it may be easier to begin at the top center.

NOTE: This is the trickiest part of the acorn's assembly, and will require some careful manipulation and patience as the adhesive cures and the edges attach as needed.

19. Apply adhesive to the two tip end sections. Line up the two halves' edges, the tab of one wedge under the straight edge of the adjacent wedge, with the center tips aligned. 

To do this, as is required by the lid's rounded dome shape, the top center may need to be "pushed downward" slightly. Hold edges until they are secure.
20. Continue to align and join the sections downward along each seam until the entire edges of both halves are joined to complete the dome.

21. Prepare the stem shape by folding tabs inward (except  leave bottom tabs straight and unfolded at this point), vertical perforation lines slightly inward, hex top shape downward.

22. Form the shape into a sort of tube to bring the side tab into line with the opposite straight edge. Apply adhesive to the face side of the tab, then slide it behind the straight edge so that perf line and edge align. Make sure tops and bottoms line up. Apply pressure until glue is set.

23. Fold the top tabs inward at horizontal position, apply adhesive to each tab face, then fold top hex shape down over them. Squash tube slightly to make sure that edges align with hex then hold in place until secure.

It may be helpful to insert pinky finger or other tool such as the new eraser end of a school pencil into the stem shape to help apply pressure to join these edges.

24. Insert each of the end tabs into the wedge slots, and work the stem shape down until it seats completely flush against the dome.

25. On the inside of dome, fold the tabs outward flat against the inside surface and glue in place.

26. Prepare the built up rim shapes by folding as shown, long horizontal and short vertical perforation lines inward (mountain folds), top smaller tabs outward (valley folds), and end tab back.

27. Insert the top tabs of one rim shape into the corresponding slots in three lid wedge sections, working one at a time . . .

. . . to make sure that the "miter" intermediate angle edges overlap the adjacent triangular "miter tab" at the corners.

If you wish, and if it seems possible and not too messy, you may wish to add a dot of adhesive to the triangular tab before it is overlapped.

On the inside of the dome, fold the tab upward and glue in place securely.






28. Attach the second rim shape to the first by sliding the end tab under the straight end edge of respective rims shapes and gluing in place.



29. Continue inserting tabs in slots, overlapping corner tabs, gluing tabs on the inside, etc. until nearly all segments of rim are in place.

30. As the final segment of the rim is positioned and attached, the second end-to-end tab will also be attached. Apply adhesive to end tab (and tiny angle miter tab, too, if desired) then insert, adjust, and hold until edges are securely joined.

31. Fold the rim's six lower flanges/tabs outward to be out of the way. Position and insert the lid wedge lower tabs through slots on the platform hex shape (should be face out), and slide the platform down until it seats fully into place.

32. Fold and each of the flanges toward the center so that the hex platform edge is fully seated against the flange's perf line and fold angle, and glue in place.

NOTE: This step may take some patience and care to accomplish on all six edges, since the pressure that can be applied comes from pushing against the existing construction, both inward and also downward from the built up rim's upper angle.

33. Fold the extended tabs/flanges to prepare to be glued in place. The perforation line closest to the platform is folded inward (mountain fold), and the outer fold (for tab) is folded outward (valley fold). Unfold.

Apply glue to the middle section of each flange as is shown here, and also to the tab, then . . .

. . . re-fold into position, glue the upright sections together to create the flange. Glue the tab to the platform surface. For tab gluing, it will be helpful to insert finger into center opening to apply pressure behind the tab attachment area.

34. Apply adhesive to the backside edges of the hex opening cover, then position and attach by applying whatever pressure you can between the two surfaces being joined.

35. Fold each accent wedge shape slightly at perforation lines (including the dashes that may fall in the petal shapes). Apply glue to the backside, position centered within each wedge with bottom straight edge at rim/dome crease, and attach.

NOTE: if you want the cutouts to have more dimension, leave them glue free so they will "pop" away from the dome surface slightly.

36. Join the decor half shapes to the smaller leaf. Before the glue dries completely, use a tool to add some curl to the leaf. Also add curl to the large leaf, and to the spring shape.












37. Glue the tips of large leaf, small leaf and spiral (in order) next to the stem on one wedge.

38. Place the lid over the base opening so that flanges slide inside the rim edges. 

If you WILL NOT be using this as a box that can open, you may choose to apply glue to the flange outer edges and glue the lid in place.


Add a ribbon knot and bow to the stem if desired.

And here is your finished product.