Snow Buddy Paper Foundation Quilt Block Tutorial

This whimsical snowman quilt block with dimensional hat and scarf tie

is constructed using machine paper foundation (MPF) piecing.

The foundation patterns will soon be available as a print & cut download design.

Follow the piecing tutorial steps here to create your own blocks, 

then check out one wall quilt sample that uses this block

by following this link to another post on this blog.

Step 1. Purchase and download the "snow buddy print & cut paper foundation quilt block" file. Because this file includes some necessary construction notations, it will be a bit sluggish in Silhouette Studio. Some of the text was eliminated to make it work at all. All the information left off will be included here in this tutorial.

On the left are the 3 piecing sections, plus the hat and scarf sections. At right are the templates for added "border" strips (these can be rotary cut for ease), plus extra applique shapes for variability, and stencil or guidebmark templates which can be cut in a regular manner.

Step 2. Use the print and cut features of your Silhouette machine and software to arrange the piecing Sections 1-3 on an 8.5 x 11 inch page size, apply cut registration guides, then send to your printer. After printing, you can send them to the cutter for the trimming out. (See tutorial for print & cut here.)

ALTERNATIVE: After printing, use rotary equipment to trim 1/16" beyond the OUTER solid lines of the 3 sections.

Cut the templates you wish to use in the regular fashion.

It may be helpful to review the basics of machine paper foundation piecing (MFP) by reading through this tutorial on the log cabin block here on this blog before beginning.





Step 3. Pre-fold the piecing sections. Use a straight edge such as a bookmark, postcard, or very thin ruler. Lay ruler edge along each of the interior solid stitching lines on the face up section, then fold the paper over the edge and crease. 

Step 4. Identify patch 1 location and fabric.

Step 5. Cut an over-sized patch and attach to the back of the section behind the area of #1. Use a glue stick dab, then place the BACKSIDE of the patch to the BACKSIDE of the diagram . 

Trim excess patch by turning the work over so fabric is FACE down on cutting mat. Fold diagram back (face side to face side of diagram) on the side patch crease/seamlines and trim fabric 1/4" beyond fold edge. Do this for all stitching solid lines that are boundaries for patch #1. Fabric excess should REMAIN extending beyond the section edges (at bottom, in this case).

This is how the work should look at this point, seen from the fabric side of the section under construction.

Step 6. Locate the tiny sections for patches #2 and #3 near the bottom of the head. The color notation is in the lower seam allowance, indicating these two patches are "background." Continuing piecing the rest of this patch in the regular MPF methods.

Before removing paper, transfer the hat tip location dot, eye dots, smile location, cheeks shape and location, etc. OR, you can use the cut template/stencils to do this at a later step.

This image shows Section 1 with center section piecing completed.

 Step 7. Sections 2 & 3 include a "COMBO PATCH 4" which will require a slightly different approach. Join patches 1-3 in the usual manner.

Identify the "joint" line of the two pieces of fabric that will be attached to the block foundation in one seam, indicated here with the arch connector line, and the red echo pencil line. You may wish to make sure this line is creased in Step 3 above, or highlight it by tracing over it with a colored pencil, ball point pen, etc. so it can be seen from the backside.

Identify the target line for the Combo Patch 4, indicated here with the green echo line. Fold the diagram back along this line (face sides together).

Step 8. Cut (2) snowman "white" patches 2.75" x 1.25" and (2) scarf fabric patches 2.75" x 3.5". Join them as shown at right with a regular (non-shortened stitches) seam, then press the seam toward the scarf strip.


This is now the COMBO 4 patch that will be added to the diagram, one for Section 2 and one for Section 3.

Step 9. With the combo patch face side up on work surface, position the section on top of it so that fabrics will be face sides together.  Align the "joint" combo line exactly over the patch seam that is underneath. Here the line is traced with red on the diagram backside for clarity.

Adjust the position of the diagram so that all of the lower portion is contained within the white patch and all of the upper portion is contained within the dark patch. I have highlighted the areas in question with green for clarity, but you will probably be able to "see through" the paper well enough to observe the proper positioning.

Step 10. Without allowing any slipping, carefully unfold the diagram as shown.


Carefully transport the diagram and patch to the sewing machine. Stitch on the target line (shown green here) in the usual fashion with the shortened stitch length.

Step 11. Press back the patch and check before trimming. Note that the combo seam should again line up with the "joint" seam of the diagram (seen on the back, of course). If you are satisfied with your success, fold back the COMBO 4 patch and trim in the usual manner. Re-fold into position. Add a dab of fabric glue under the patch at the top, then carefully align the seam with the joint line to preserve your efforts for the eventual final trim.

Complete the rest of this section, then complete the other lower section. Trim excess of all sections on outer trim lines. Remove paper.

Step 12.  Adjust sewing machine stitch length to your regular seam settings. Join Sections 2 & 3 with regular seam and press open. Join the upper section to the lower assembly and press seam downward.

 Step 13. Prepare sections of face-together folded fabric for tracing and cutting dimensional scarf and hat. Position the dashed line edges on the fold, trace and cut. 

Step 14. Stitch 3 sides of scarf (leave a turning opening at center), 2 edges of hat, locking stitching at seam ends. Trim points and corners, then turn face side out, work corners and points out fully, and press flat.

Step 15. Position the hat with raw edges even with hat band of Section 1, and pin in place. Note that the fold edge is at the right, and the seam edge crosses the vertical seam 1/4" from upper raw edge at left. This should allow the hat side edges to line up well with the hat band when the upper strip is stitched in place.

Step 16. Cut the border strips:
upper 1.75" x 5.5"
(2) side 1.75" x 6.75
lower 1.75" x 8"

Step 17.  Join the upper strip to the top edge of assembly. Press seam toward the center of block, with hat and strip extending upward as shown.

Step 18. Use the cheek painting stencil to paint the rouged cheeks. Place the lower edge of stencil along seam, place perf lines on head side seams (note arrow cutout is up). Use one or more masking tape strips at lower edge to secure and protect block from over-painting.

I am using acryllic paint and brush here. Other applicators may also work, but take care that you use "dry brush" techniques (Google it if necessary).

Here the still-attached stencil is swung back to observe the density of the paint that I am applying, as feedback about when the process is complete.

Step 19. When the stencil paint is dry, use the marking stencil, positioned so that the painted cheek circles shown through and align, to TEMP mark the eye and hat tip position dots. Also use 05 black Pigma pen or equivalent permanent ink to create dashed cheek outlines and smile.

Step 20. Add finishing touches to block.
Fold hat over so that tip reaches marked guide dot. Tack in place by hand, then attach tassel button star. Attach 5mm or larger black bead eyes. Attach carrot nose (or prepare alternative fusible machine appliqued nose and cheeks using the "extra" shapes provided in the design file. Tie the scarf in an over-hand knot at the center, arrange ends so they hang together, then position and hand tack invisibly in place at the left end of the scarf patch.

NOTE: If you can't find carrot nose buttons, you can make your own with FIMO or SCULPY home-oven baked clay.



Consider making a center panel from a combination of blocks, like the four that are used here.


See the isolated Snow Buddy block below that has contrast strips substituted for the matched background strips of the block constructed in the tutorial.

FYI, frame strips (blue) are cut 1" wide, inner border strips (red) are cut 1.25" wide, outer borders are cut 3.5" wide, and post squares are cut 3.5" x 3.5".

Hope you have

a flurry of fun piecing and quilting

your own Snow Buddies quilt project!

Pumpkins Mini Wall Quilt Foundation Pieced Project

This new quilting paper foundation print & cut file

is now available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.

Here is a tutorial for piecing this block.
Once you see how quick and easy it is, you can plan a wall quilt like this one
that is practically perfect for autumn holiday decorating.

This instruction is intended to be a "review".
Please refer to other paper piecing tutorials for more detail of
the piecing process.

Step 1. Print and cut the foundation diagram. Use a rigid straight edge such as a thin ruler or a heavy paper bookmark as pictures to PRE-CREASE the diagram on all SOLID interior lines.

Step 2. Apply a dab of fabric glue (stick) to the BACKSIDE of the paper BEHIND patch #1.

Step 3. Position the area of PATCH #1 over the selected fabric for that patch. Place the BACKSIDE of the paper diagram next to the BACKSIDE of the fabric.

BACKSIDE TO BACKSIDE

This is the only time this placement happens this easy way.

Step 4.  One by one working all the way around Patch #1 fold the diagram back along the creases/stitching lines, then trim a 1/4" seam allowance beyond the paper fold edge.

This image shows me using the "Add A Quarter" ruler that has a built-in "lip" on the underside that catches at the paper fold edge and makes this trimming super slick.

Here you can see the final shape for Patch #1, which includes seam allowances at all of its perimeter crease/stitching lines, as well as the outer edge seam allowance that is indicated as part of the printed diagram. 

Step 5. Now we will add Patch #2 which is background. The target stitching line is the line BETWEEN Patch 1 and Patch 2.

Fold the diagram back on the target line.

Step 6. Position the area of Patch #2 which is defined by it's perimeter creases and the paper fold edge. (I have highlighted this shape with red pencil for visibility in this image.)  The assembly is positioned with the already-attached Patch 1 fabric face to face with the right side of the fabric for Patch #2. Make sure the final positioning allows for fabric all the way around the patch's shape plus the required 1/4" seam allowances for all edges.

In this image, the seam allowance edge of Patch #1 is aligned with the cut fabric edge. Often, this works just fine. Other times, for grainline best choice, it will not.

Step 7. Quick cut (or chunky cut)  fabric section large enough to cover the area under the Patch #2 shape as it is positioned in the image for Step 6, above. Here I am holding the foundation in place as it was positioned while I fold it back roughly at the perimeter crease lines, then trim a generous 1/4" and more beyond.

 Step 8. Carefully unfold the diagram, hold the layers to retain positioning, and take the assembly to the sewing machine. Adjust machine to shorter stitch length (12-15 stitches per inch). Begin stitching 3 stitches BEFORE the beginning of the target line, continue stitching across the seamline making the needle pierce the layers EXACTLY on the line . . .

. . . then stitch 3 stitches BEYOND the end of the line.

Step 9. Press Patch 2 back into place.

Step 10. With paper print side up on cutting mat, work around the perimeter of Patch #2 to trim excess fabric away beyond a 1/4" seam allowance. To do this, fold the PAPER back along each crease, then trim fabric #2 away. 

First I trim along the Patch #5 crease . . .

then along the side edge of the block (beyond paper edge since a final trim will happen after all fabrics are in place), . . .

then beyond the crease at patch #6.

(Please note that the first downloads of this print & cut file included a numbering error. If your foundation does NOT include the #4, just skip through it and continue in order.)

Step 11. Repeat the process of Steps 5-10 to add Patch #3 in similar fashion.

Step 12. Locate Patch 4 or 5, which is a corner triangle shape.  Fold on the target stitching line. 

Fold the diagram as before and position the corner shape as it appears from the foundation back side over the face side of the designated (background) fabric. This kind of shape can be easily positioned (and for the best grainline choice) in a cut corner of the fabric, as I am demonstrating in this photo as I prepare to position it.

Step 13. Unfold the diagram and stitch on the target line as previously. However, this line extends to the foundation edge. When this is the case, begin the stitching at the paper edge, stitch ON the line across, then stitch 3 stitches beyond the end of the line to complete the seam.

Step 14. Press and trim in the usual fashion. Add the other three triangle patches in a similar manner.

Here is the block with the rough edges of all patches in place.

Step  15. Use rotary equipment and mat to trim EXACTLY on the outer solid trim line. Trim at all edges of the foundation, through paper and fabric layers.

Here is the final trimmed block. 

Step 16. Remove the paper by tearing along the "perforations" created by the stitching. Begin with the highest number and work in order to the lowest.

Step 17. Add background border strips to the edges of your finished block as you desire.

For my project, I will be preparing a set of blocks with borders on two sides to allow for space to fuse the leaf and vine. You may wish to put background borders all around your block.

My strips were cut 1 1/2" wide with lengths to match the block edges to which they are stitched. You may need to figure these lengths or adjust width for your own needs.

Step  18. Prepare a section of fabric with Silhouette America's "fabric interfacing" (lightweight fusible web with paper backing) that will accomodate the leaf or vine applique shape you are cutting, and position it on the cutting mat. Position on the mat, prepare the shape in the design file and position it on the screen appropriately. Send the job to cut, then peel away the excess fabric with fusing.

Step 19. Position the vine and leaf on the front of the block, adjust as necessary, then fuse in place with hot iron.

NOTE that is you are making multiple blocks as I will be for my project, it may be best to position the leaf and vine identically for each block. Use seam gauge, ruler, prepare a positioning template by making a block-sized paper and crayon "rubbing" then cut out the highlighted shape outlines, etc.







Step 20. Use the leaf shape with the center vein cutout to trade a temporary line on the top of the fused-in-place leaf.

Step 21. Machine over-stitch or blanket stitch the raw applique edges using matched (or contrast) color thread. Re-set the machine to a med. straight stitch then stitch along the marked vein line, pivot at the end to re-stitch exactly on top of previous vein stitching, then pivot one more time to re-stitch (total of 3 times). Pull thread ends to the backside, tie off, clip short. (If you plan, you can begin at leaf center top to eliminate thread ends to just 2.

Step 22. Join blocks as you have planned into a completed project. Here you see the nine blocks of my mini quilt, with added narrow and outer borders. I have completed the machine quilting at block and border seams and pumpkin, leaf and vine edges, then trimmed and added the binding.

I scaled my block slightly smaller (about 3" seam allowances) then printed it ONLY. Once I had my copies, I re-drew the outer CUTTING LINE to be 1/4" beyond the dashed stitching line of the print.

OTHER OPTIONS TO USE THIS PIECED BLOCK:

Placemat or Cloth Embellishment: Add "background" strips to all block edges (narrower on left and upper edges?) then fold 1/4" seam allowances under on all edges. Position over the corner of a placemat or table cloth and topstitch in place.

Coaster: Add outer borders as described immediately above, layer with back square (face sides together) and stitch around, turn, press, topstitch at edges, etc. Consider making one for each of your Thanksgiving dinner guests, possibly with pen-stitched, embroidered or cut-n-fused names to use as place cards. 
Use design as stencil shapes: for napkins, table cloth or placemat. Save the surrounding space as a mask, spray back with temp adhesive spray, position and secure in place on project surface, mask off surrounding area, then spray paint or sponge paint, etc., using one color for pumpkin, one or two colors roe leaf and vine. (Or use stencil vinyl to cut and then reuse stencil vinyl for a border, etc.)

HAPPY STITCHING!

Watch for more machine paper foundation piecing diagrams and designs

from SnapDragon Snippets through the Silhouette America online store. 
You can make specific block design requests through
Silhouette America online store, or by emailing me directly:
hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com .