Pumpkins Mini Wall Quilt Foundation Pieced Project

This new quilting paper foundation print & cut file

is now available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.

Here is a tutorial for piecing this block.
Once you see how quick and easy it is, you can plan a wall quilt like this one
that is practically perfect for autumn holiday decorating.

This instruction is intended to be a "review".
Please refer to other paper piecing tutorials for more detail of
the piecing process.

Step 1. Print and cut the foundation diagram. Use a rigid straight edge such as a thin ruler or a heavy paper bookmark as pictures to PRE-CREASE the diagram on all SOLID interior lines.

Step 2. Apply a dab of fabric glue (stick) to the BACKSIDE of the paper BEHIND patch #1.

Step 3. Position the area of PATCH #1 over the selected fabric for that patch. Place the BACKSIDE of the paper diagram next to the BACKSIDE of the fabric.

BACKSIDE TO BACKSIDE

This is the only time this placement happens this easy way.

Step 4.  One by one working all the way around Patch #1 fold the diagram back along the creases/stitching lines, then trim a 1/4" seam allowance beyond the paper fold edge.

This image shows me using the "Add A Quarter" ruler that has a built-in "lip" on the underside that catches at the paper fold edge and makes this trimming super slick.

Here you can see the final shape for Patch #1, which includes seam allowances at all of its perimeter crease/stitching lines, as well as the outer edge seam allowance that is indicated as part of the printed diagram. 

Step 5. Now we will add Patch #2 which is background. The target stitching line is the line BETWEEN Patch 1 and Patch 2.

Fold the diagram back on the target line.

Step 6. Position the area of Patch #2 which is defined by it's perimeter creases and the paper fold edge. (I have highlighted this shape with red pencil for visibility in this image.)  The assembly is positioned with the already-attached Patch 1 fabric face to face with the right side of the fabric for Patch #2. Make sure the final positioning allows for fabric all the way around the patch's shape plus the required 1/4" seam allowances for all edges.

In this image, the seam allowance edge of Patch #1 is aligned with the cut fabric edge. Often, this works just fine. Other times, for grainline best choice, it will not.

Step 7. Quick cut (or chunky cut)  fabric section large enough to cover the area under the Patch #2 shape as it is positioned in the image for Step 6, above. Here I am holding the foundation in place as it was positioned while I fold it back roughly at the perimeter crease lines, then trim a generous 1/4" and more beyond.

 Step 8. Carefully unfold the diagram, hold the layers to retain positioning, and take the assembly to the sewing machine. Adjust machine to shorter stitch length (12-15 stitches per inch). Begin stitching 3 stitches BEFORE the beginning of the target line, continue stitching across the seamline making the needle pierce the layers EXACTLY on the line . . .

. . . then stitch 3 stitches BEYOND the end of the line.

Step 9. Press Patch 2 back into place.

Step 10. With paper print side up on cutting mat, work around the perimeter of Patch #2 to trim excess fabric away beyond a 1/4" seam allowance. To do this, fold the PAPER back along each crease, then trim fabric #2 away. 

First I trim along the Patch #5 crease . . .

then along the side edge of the block (beyond paper edge since a final trim will happen after all fabrics are in place), . . .

then beyond the crease at patch #6.

(Please note that the first downloads of this print & cut file included a numbering error. If your foundation does NOT include the #4, just skip through it and continue in order.)

Step 11. Repeat the process of Steps 5-10 to add Patch #3 in similar fashion.

Step 12. Locate Patch 4 or 5, which is a corner triangle shape.  Fold on the target stitching line. 

Fold the diagram as before and position the corner shape as it appears from the foundation back side over the face side of the designated (background) fabric. This kind of shape can be easily positioned (and for the best grainline choice) in a cut corner of the fabric, as I am demonstrating in this photo as I prepare to position it.

Step 13. Unfold the diagram and stitch on the target line as previously. However, this line extends to the foundation edge. When this is the case, begin the stitching at the paper edge, stitch ON the line across, then stitch 3 stitches beyond the end of the line to complete the seam.

Step 14. Press and trim in the usual fashion. Add the other three triangle patches in a similar manner.

Here is the block with the rough edges of all patches in place.

Step  15. Use rotary equipment and mat to trim EXACTLY on the outer solid trim line. Trim at all edges of the foundation, through paper and fabric layers.

Here is the final trimmed block. 

Step 16. Remove the paper by tearing along the "perforations" created by the stitching. Begin with the highest number and work in order to the lowest.

Step 17. Add background border strips to the edges of your finished block as you desire.

For my project, I will be preparing a set of blocks with borders on two sides to allow for space to fuse the leaf and vine. You may wish to put background borders all around your block.

My strips were cut 1 1/2" wide with lengths to match the block edges to which they are stitched. You may need to figure these lengths or adjust width for your own needs.

Step  18. Prepare a section of fabric with Silhouette America's "fabric interfacing" (lightweight fusible web with paper backing) that will accomodate the leaf or vine applique shape you are cutting, and position it on the cutting mat. Position on the mat, prepare the shape in the design file and position it on the screen appropriately. Send the job to cut, then peel away the excess fabric with fusing.

Step 19. Position the vine and leaf on the front of the block, adjust as necessary, then fuse in place with hot iron.

NOTE that is you are making multiple blocks as I will be for my project, it may be best to position the leaf and vine identically for each block. Use seam gauge, ruler, prepare a positioning template by making a block-sized paper and crayon "rubbing" then cut out the highlighted shape outlines, etc.







Step 20. Use the leaf shape with the center vein cutout to trade a temporary line on the top of the fused-in-place leaf.

Step 21. Machine over-stitch or blanket stitch the raw applique edges using matched (or contrast) color thread. Re-set the machine to a med. straight stitch then stitch along the marked vein line, pivot at the end to re-stitch exactly on top of previous vein stitching, then pivot one more time to re-stitch (total of 3 times). Pull thread ends to the backside, tie off, clip short. (If you plan, you can begin at leaf center top to eliminate thread ends to just 2.

Step 22. Join blocks as you have planned into a completed project. Here you see the nine blocks of my mini quilt, with added narrow and outer borders. I have completed the machine quilting at block and border seams and pumpkin, leaf and vine edges, then trimmed and added the binding.

I scaled my block slightly smaller (about 3" seam allowances) then printed it ONLY. Once I had my copies, I re-drew the outer CUTTING LINE to be 1/4" beyond the dashed stitching line of the print.

OTHER OPTIONS TO USE THIS PIECED BLOCK:

Placemat or Cloth Embellishment: Add "background" strips to all block edges (narrower on left and upper edges?) then fold 1/4" seam allowances under on all edges. Position over the corner of a placemat or table cloth and topstitch in place.

Coaster: Add outer borders as described immediately above, layer with back square (face sides together) and stitch around, turn, press, topstitch at edges, etc. Consider making one for each of your Thanksgiving dinner guests, possibly with pen-stitched, embroidered or cut-n-fused names to use as place cards. 
Use design as stencil shapes: for napkins, table cloth or placemat. Save the surrounding space as a mask, spray back with temp adhesive spray, position and secure in place on project surface, mask off surrounding area, then spray paint or sponge paint, etc., using one color for pumpkin, one or two colors roe leaf and vine. (Or use stencil vinyl to cut and then reuse stencil vinyl for a border, etc.)

HAPPY STITCHING!

Watch for more machine paper foundation piecing diagrams and designs

from SnapDragon Snippets through the Silhouette America online store. 
You can make specific block design requests through
Silhouette America online store, or by emailing me directly:
hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com .