Decorated Wardrobe 3D Box Decoration

Miniature replica vintage wardrobe box to decorate 

with favorite paper prints, panels, metal handles or knobs, 

hinges, tassel, ribbon and more. 

Suited to experienced paper crafters, this large project 

measures approx. 11.5" tall x 7.5" wide (base) x 3" deep. 

Working door panel measured to fit all monthly "Cut Apart" 

panel G45 paper prints - January featured on this model. 

Lower drawer also functions. 

Dimensional walls make box framework durable. 

Large word art that is part of Graphic 45's

January "Cut Apart" 

(#4501029; Time to Flourish Collection) is a featured

 adornment of the decorated model project.

Shaped tracing template and offset margin cut shape

are available in a separate free cut file through

SnapDragonSnippets.com 
(https://www.snapdragonsnippets.com/store/product/2123);

December word art offset design also available.

Wardrobe is designed to accommodate specific metal findings 

and embellishments, including drawer handle hardware,

key hole plate, miniature hinges, knob, drawer pull.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes
for the main structure:
A hull back  
B & C left & right side walls with door notch strips
D & E top & bottom walls
F compartment "shelf" build up (7-8; see step 9)
G shelf with tabs and flange
H leg sets build up (8-9 for each of 2)
I & J door "box" front and back panels
K door support struts (2)
L drawer tray box   M side wall overlays (l & r)
N pediment shape (2-3 for build up)
O drawer opening frame (2-3 for build up)
P upper compartment "baffle" support box
Q baffle support struts (2)
R drawer "glide" box (2)

JJ side wall lower edge "blocks" (8-9 each of 2)

KK back wardrobe "cover"

Identify and cut the accent shapes:

S  January panel

T door front overlay with side strips (2)

U side panel left & right overlay accents

V top wall panel overlay      W pediment accent

X drawer opening panel overlay

Y drawer front (2-3 for build up)  Z accent overlay

AA leg overlay (2)   BB drawer liner

CC (opt.) door flap with accent overlay

DD (opt.) key plate layers (3 of each)

EE hinge and overlay accent (metal recommended)

Following shapes are available in the "Free" 

January file download as noted above.

FF pediment plaque base, accent, print cutting

GG January tracing template

HH January cutout with offset base (4-5 for buildup)

II circle embellishments for print cutouts

2. Prepare the side walls by bending back on

all perforation lines and tabs, except bend short

inner edge tabs forward.

3. Prepare the (door) indent strips by bending back 

on all perforation lines and tabs or flanges,except 

the narrow end sections, which are bent forward.

4. Position the indent strips under the side panel

with long flange perforation lined up at long edge

of the "window" . . . 

. . . adjust so that strip and edge ends are precisely

lined up, then glue the flange in place to backside

 of the side panel (backside is up in this image).

5. If you are including the magnetic closure variation,

position a metal "attractor" such as this small

picture hanger at the center of the right side panel

indent strip, on the inside using secure glue.

6. Fold the panel into its final form to position

the second long edge of the indent strip at

the straight edge of "window" as for first side seam,

adjust and attach.

7. Bend the end sections into position, align

perforations and indent edges, and attach tabs

in place to complete the indent "boxing".

9. Check for proper thickness of the compartment

"shelf" build up by dry stacking the shapes

(F & G from layout image) and test fitting the end

tab-like extension into the shelf slot on one of

the side wall panels.Card stock used for the model

required 8 build up shapes F plus 1 top layer G

to snugly fill the slot.

10. Bend back the front and back edge tabs
of the main shelf shape.
11. Stack and glue together all of the build up
shapes, taking care that all edges line up
as each is glued in place. Use a flat weight
placed on top of the stack as it dries to
prevent warping and curling, and leave in place
until completely dry.
12. Position the stack on the underside of
main shelf shape, between the front and back
tab or flange perforation lines, and with side
edges lined up exactly, and glue in place,
using flat weight as before.

13. Position the shelf assembly over the face

side of the back panel, and insert the short tabs

into the matching slots at the lower portion of

panel. Then . . . 

. . . bend the tabs upward and glue in place

on the back wall backside.

14. Position the first (left shown) side wall assembly
at corresponding side edge of back wall,
insert short tabs into corresponding slots,
make sure tabs are fully inserted, then
bend toward panel center and glue in place
on panel backside.
15. Insert side flange of shelf into wall slot . . . 

. . . apply glue to shelf build up edge that will

touch side wall, then slide shelf fully into position

and apply pressure, hold until connection is secure.

NOTE: Here and throughout assembly, 

take care to "square up" the wardrobe box

as components are added and glued in place.

16. Repeat steps 14 & 15 for the left wall.

17. Prepare the top and bottom walls by bending

back on all perforations and tabs, except the short

inner tabs and bent forward.

Also, position and attach the TOP wall accent

on the wall face next to the long flange tab.

18. Fit the bottom wall inner edge tabs into
the corresponding slots in the back wall . . . 

. . . while at the same time fitting the side tabs

into the corresponding slots on the ends of

the side walls.

Bend the wall tabs outward and glue in place

to the side wall back inside surface.

Bend the back wall tabs upward and glue in place

to the back wall underside surface.

19. Repeat step 18 for the top wall.

20. If not already accomplished, position the side wall

long tabs (flanges) so that they "wrap" around

the edge of the back wall.

21. Prepare to "wrap" the top and bottom walls

flange tabs around back wall by first applying

a dab of glue to side wall top surface under

the corner where the miter edge will fit, as shown.

22. Complete the top and bottom wall wrap step . . .

. . . so that all four wall flange tabs are in place

as seen from the back of assembly.

Apply glue to the underside of all flanges,

then re-position and apply pressure while pushing

the walls inward so that the back wall edges

fit snugly into the perforation angle all across,

and along each edge.

NOTE: It may be easier to work one or two sides

at a time. Take care at corners that the flanges

miter cuts fit together well.

23. Prepare the compartment "baffle" reinforcement

platform box by bending back on all perforation lines

and tabs.

24. Form the open-backed box by bending into

rectangular block form, with tabs tucked under

corresponding end wall straight edges,

and glue tabs in place. Leave rounded partial

back "wall" flange free until a later step.

25. Prepare the baffle struts by bending tabs
back (or forward a seems best for fit).
Reverse one of the struts so that the center slots
can fit together to form 'X'.

26. Apply glue to the underside of the tabs . . . 

. . . then fit the struts assembly inside the box
from back so that the tabs will rest against
the undersides of upper or lower walls,
and glue in place.

27. Bend the partial back wall into position

with tabs tucked in, and glue side tabs in place.

28. Fit the baffle into the hull compartment

and move fully to the top, glue top and side walls

and back flange to the surfaces they touch.

29. Position and attach the accents

onto their corresponding side wall overlays.

30. Position and attach the overlay wall units

on the sides of the hull assembly, with the top,

back and front edges of both lined up. 

NOTE: the bottom edges of overlays will

extend beyond the bottom hull edge.

31. Prepare the 2 drawer glide "trays" by bending

back on all perf lines, except side flanges are

bent forward.

(NOTE the front end of glide shape has been

modified in the final file.)

 32. Position the two glides into the bottom
of the drawer cavity, equal distance in from
side walls, and glue the side flanges to the
inner surface of bottom wall, also glue
the front end tab in place overlapping the front
of bottom wall as shown in image in step 35.

33. Prepare the "blocks" for the lower side wall

reinforcement by layering 8 or 9 of the strips

into a stack, then repeating for second stack,

taking care that edges line up as precisely

as possible.

34. Position and attach the wide edge of a block 

on the backside of the side wall overlay unit,

with top edge glued to bottom wall.

Make sure that ends line up with overlay

side edges.

35. Layer and attach the leg shapes to create a

build up of 1/8" (8-9 layers or more by test).

Create front and back leg stack.

36. Position and attach the accent shape onto

the front side of each stack.

37. Prepare to attach the front leg in place
by applying a quick-set glue such as the
Fabri-Tac shown here
along the top stack edge, and also to thick edges
of the side wall "blocks" stacks, then position
the leg in place under the front edge of hull,
and apply pressure to glue-up contacts until
secure. Repeat for back leg unit.

38. Position and attach the drawer opening panel

over the lower portion of hull so that edges line up

with bottom and side wall outer edges,

and inner "shelf".

39. Position and attach the pediment panel

over the front top of the hull assembly so that

the lower edges line up with top front wall section

above the door cut out.

40. Prepare door front and back panels by
bending back on all perforation lines for side
panels and tabs.
41. Position and attach front accent panel,
narrow side wall accent strips, and specialty
"January" panel onto the solid front of door.

42. Position, then attach the lower edges of

front and back door "box" panels, overlapping

the lower front straight edge over the back panel's

bottom edge flange.

43. If using magnets, position and attach

1/4" wide magnet strip behind right edge of

back door panel, where it will line up with

the metal strip placed in the right hull side wall

(see step 5).

44. Prepare the door strut reinforcement strips

in same manner as for baffle struts 

(steps 25 & 26).

45. Position and attach the struts 'X' in the inside

face of the back door panel, centered as shown.

46. Bend the front door panel over the back
to form the door box, tucking end tabs in,
and gluing overlapping walls side walls
to flanges underneath. Then . . . 

. . . tuck in top flap . . .  

. . . and glue in place.

47. Position and attach the door back panel

cover, centered. NOTE: using glue adhesive

"tape" to attach this panel may be easier

than liquid glue.

48. Fit the door unit into the cutout on the front
of the wardrobe. It will likely fit snugly.

49. Prepare the hinge units (paper) by bending

forward at centers of both base and accent

shapes. Assemble by layering, matching holes.

NOTE that the forward edge of the base shape

is slightly blunted to fit onto the side edge

of the door.

RECOMMENDATION: If you intend

to have the door function regularly,

a better choice is to use metal hinges

such as this one from Tim Holtz.

50. Position the hinges so that the center
perforation line (paper) or pin (metal)
is at the crack between
door and hull, equal distance from
top and bottom, and glue in place.
Pierce the door and hull at the brad
holes, then insert stems and glue 
brad heads in place (both paper or metal).

51. Prepare the drawer tray by bending back

on all perforation lines and tabs. 

Position and attach the "liner" accent shape

in the bottom of the tray.

Bend sides up and glue four corner tab seams.

52. If using the January (or similar print paper)

you may wish to use one of the edge borders

as accent strip on drawer front. Use the 

cut shape to trace and cut out, 

pierce the drawer pull holes.

NOTE that cut file includes both double punch

and single punch variations for drawer front.

53. Assemble drawer front, then center and

attach to the front of the drawer tray. 

For sturdiness, consider cutting 2 extra drawer front

shapes from wardrobe main card stock to

layer under the colored drawer front.

Then .  . . 

. . . insert the drawer into the wardrobe. 

54. IF INCLUDING THE SIDE FLAP IN YOUR PROJECT:

Prepare the paper lock plate by first

layering and gluing 3 copies of the three shapes

into their own stacks, then layering ring

onto inner oval, then onto outer oval.

55. Prepare the flap by layering the accent
shape onto the base shape, attaching
the lock plate where openings of each line up.
Position and attach straight edge onto
the edge of the door box
(flap will be stationary, will NOT bend outward).

56. Position the back cover rectangle over

 the back of wardrobe to cover assembly tabs.

57. Layer the optional pediment plaque,

including a panel fussy-cut from the specialty

print (can be seen in next step image of print)

then position and attach to the pediment,

centered as shown. Add accent studs over holes.

58. Prepare the optional January build-up shape
by using the template shape to position over
the print card stock, and tracing a cutting line.
NOTE that the template includes an "UP" arrow.

59. Layer and stack the build up offset shapes,
then position and attach the January cutout.

60. Complete the embellishments as desired.
Here are notations to show what
was added to the model project.