Christmas Tree 3D Chest Countdown

 

Triangular ends give this dimensional “chest” its tree-like 

shape, with face panels each holding 12 miniature drawers 

in 3 graduated lengths to conceal a small treat, 

tiny toy, ornament, Christmas scripture or activity clue. 

Structure components are layered, stacked and glued together 

for thickness to be strong enough to last multiple 

holiday seasons, joined with tabs or end “tenons” 

that slot into walls. Windows near top provide 

a platform stage and act as carrying handle. 

Drawer fronts measure approx. 1.375” tall x 1.75” long 

x 2” wide (in 3 different depths). 

Chest measures approx. 10.9” wide x 9.27” tall x 7.22” deep 

when fully assembled. 

Add style to chest tree ends with 

“Card Tree Ginger Cookie Easel Lrg” 

(use specially prepared cookie shapes included in that file). 

(Sample project used approx. 32 sheets of card stock

 to make components thick and like craft wood panels. 

This project is recommended for paper crafters 

with experience.)

PRELIMINARIES: A. This design's assembly depends on

layering and gluing up many of the structural shapes 

to achieve a specific thickness. Cut quantities will be

determined by testing the card stock selected.

A slot test shape with small strips is included in cut file

for this purpose. Layer cut strips into a stack, then . . .

. . . slide the stack into the test slot. Stack should fit

fairly snugly. Add or substract strips until desired fit

is determined. For final test, actually glue up

the determined layers. Shapes layout

frames in step 1 below will suggest 4 layers.

Adjust this quantity to your specific solution. 

B. The sample project was being "prototyped" as

it was built for this tutorial, so some of the shapes

were modified or refined from the original design.

Other shapes were added that may not be shown

in the shapes layout images below. They ARE shown

in the assembly photographs.

C. The sample project uses a lighter face paper

and a darker core paper as a style choice.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT CARD STOCK PAPER CHOICES:

D. Stacking and gluing layers is essential to this design.

Select a good quality such as Bazille textured or smooth,

or the liquid adhesive may/will cause the paper to warp,

curl or shrink.

E. Quantities of card stock needed for this large project

make it an investment that should be understood up front.

While ensuring good quality paper, I suggest watching for

good papercraft sales from your "big box" or local craft supplier(s).

Sample project approx. quantities used: 12-13 Face color;

15-16 Core color; 2 Dark contrast; 1-2 Light contrast.

OTHER GEAR YOU MAY NEED:

F. Shown here are the adhesives used for sample project:

Tombo Aqua liquid for layering and simple glue-up

Fabri-Tac quick grab liquid adhesive for structural joints

Double-sided tape with applicator for situations where

pressing and finger pressure are restricted or unsuitable

G. Pressing flat the glued-up layers until thoroughly

dried is critical for the success of this project, a process

that will require patience and a plan. Drying may require

several hours or overnight. This image shows some of

the objects that I use to press the layered units:

thick heavy solid or ply wood panels

repurposed thick heavy book volumes

vintage-style heavy iron replica

narrow, thick plastic rulers (used in conjunction with

irons or bars to help with drawer face & rim strips)

muslin-covered repurposed free weight bars

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A front & back drawers and windows panels (2 sets of 

front plus 2 underlay panels without lower array)

B edge strips left & right for edge build up thickness

C bottom bends underlay stack strips (2 sets of 

3 each in varied lengths)

D tree end panels (2 sets of 1 face plus 2 underlays)

E edge strips for edge build up thickness (2 sets of

left, right & bottom)

F slot test shapes: slot panel plus 4-5 strips

G decorative tree overlays (2 sets of contrast tree

with show-thru underlay)

SHOWN HERE are from separate Ginger Tree Card design

Cut file for the chest includes only a contrast overlay.

H icing decorations from Ginger Tree Card design

Shelf structures include 2 sets of main shelf (1) plus

underlay panel (1) plus pairs of end strips (l & r):

I top shelf pairs       J middle shelf pairs  

K lower shelf pairs (final version includes finger windows)

L drawer divider inserts main strips and end tabs

(6 each; NOTE these were modified in final cut file)

M platform main panel (1) plus underlay panels

without long edge flange tabs (2) plus end strips (l & r)

plus concealing overlay

N floor main panel (1) plus underlay panels (l & r)

plus end strips (2)   NOTE this shape was modified

in final file to omit tab slots

O center walls (2)

Drawer assemblies for 24 drawers:

8 P top rows numbers 1-4 & 13-16;

8 R middle rows numbers 5-8 & 17-20;

8 S bottom rows numbers 9-12 & 21-24

Q each drawer front build up consists of:

front number face panel

contrast face underlay

interior panels (2)

back panel with slots 

back rim reinforcement fold-over strip

SHAPES NOT SHOWN IN IMAGES ABOVE:

Crest beam (3) and connector base

Platform open area ends concealer triangles (2)

Attachment bracket strips for center wall (2)

Fingertip concealer strips for bottom shelf (2)

TIP FOR ORGANIZING CUTTING:

(Image shows Silhouette Cameo system screen)

The many shapes and multiple layers required for

this project make the cutting steps labor intensive.

Suggested procedures:

 A) opening the cutting page in software;

B) duplicating the shapes that will be required;

C) moving the shapes onto the virtual mat in

as efficient arrangements as possible, then . . .

D) once sent to be cut, moving the "done" shapes

off to an area to one side

2. Since there are 24 to build, begin with

drawer assembly. Layer the face stack with

number panel, contrast, 2 interior shapes.

Immediately press under a heavy flat object and

leave in place until thoroughly dried, for several hours or

overnight, to minimize warping or curling of glued-up layers

3. Prepare the drawer hull by bending back on all

perforation lines for panels, side flanges and

connector tabs.

4. Bend the panels back, with tabs inward, then

align plain edge at corner perforation line and join seam.

Repeat to join 3 more corner seams.

5. Insert the drawer front lower edge tabs into

slots of face plate back layer, apply adhesive to

the hull front face then bend the face panel into

position to join to hull front. Take care that finger cutout

edges align, and that consistent narrow margin of

face panel extends beyond hull sides and lower edges.

On front of assembly, apply glue to backsides of

tabs, then bend into place to attach to panel.

Immediately apply fingertip pressure to ensure tabs

and front panel attach completely.

While number face plate assembly is "curing",

it is recommended that steps be taken to assist

the hull/front panel also be pressed until dry.

Here is the set up I use: narrow pressing "blocks"

with added weight on top:

6. Position and attach the glued-up and cured face plate

assembly onto the drawer front that is attached to hull,

then press as described for front panel to hull step, above.

7. Finish the drawer by first bending the rim 

reinforcement strip back on perf line, then

applying glue and "wrapping" it over the back hull

edge and allowing/pressing to dry.

(Suggest using same pressing set up shown above.)

DRAWER FRONT & BACK PANELS

8. Prepare the front and back panels by bending back

on the narrow panel and edge flange perforation lines

(panel shape is shown face down here).

9. Position and attach the 2 duplicate (without bottom

perforation panels array) reinforcement shape on

the backside with top and side/tab edges aligned

as precisely as possible. Immediately press flat under

a large heavy weight until dry. Complete 2 panels.

10. When the panels assembly is completely dry,

position and attach the reinforcement side edge

strips, with outer edges, top edges aligned

precisely. Replace under the flat weights.

11. Prepare the reinforcement panel "rib" stacks by

layering the three matching shapes for the 3 different

strip stacks, edges precisely matched. Press flat til dry.

12. When the ribs are dry, position each in their

length-matched position (shorter in between long),

ends matched to front panel shape, and long side edges

centered between the perforation lines, and glue

in place. Immediately press flat until dry.

FLOOR PANEL ASSEMBLY

13. Begin the floor assembly by layering and joining

the two underlay reinforcement shapes with all edges

aligned as precisely as possible.

(NOTE that the final file shape has a perforation guide

line, not slots.) Next . . .

. . . position the "face" shape on top of the stack,

align precisely and glue in place. Immediately press

the stack under a large flat heavy object.

14. Position and attach the end reinforcement strips

on each end. Press under flat weight.

(NOTE this image incorrectly shows the face floor

shape unattached.)

15. Join the front and back drawer panel assemblies

to each side of the floor stack assembly, overlapping

the straight side edge of floor across the bottom flange

to perforation line, ends aligned, and glue in place.

Repeat for the second front or back panel.

16. Prepare the attachment bracket strips by bending

forward carefully along the perforation line.

The narrow flange will be vertical, and the pair will

be placed along the floor inward face at center

with enough space between to accept the bottom

edge of the center wall assembly (later).

17. Prepare a (waste)  "buffer" assembly of two long narrow

strips that will help space the two brackets 

so that center panel assembly can snugly fit. Then . . .

. . . position the first bracket next to center perf line,

with wider flange ready to glue to underside of floor

assembly. Align ends with floor ends . . .

. . . place buffer strips next to vertical flange, then

position second bracket strip (wide flange down)

snugly against buffer, and glue in place.

Remove buffer strips.

PLATFORM & CREST BEAM

18. Prepare platform face shape by bending edge

flanges forward.

19. Layer and attach the duplicate reinforcing platform

panels (2 without flanges) to each other, then . . .

. . . position the face panel on top of the reinforcement

layers, centered and with ends even, and attach.

Immediately press flat until dry.

20. When the platform stack is dry, position and

attach end reinforcement strips; press with weights.

(NOTE this image incorrectly shows the face platform

shape unattached.)

21. Prepare the crest beam strip assembly by layering

the plain face and underlay strips into a stack and

attaching together. Immediately press flat.

22. Prepare the crest beam connector strip by

bending the side long flanges forward.

Position and attach the beam stack down the center

of the connector strip, long edges even with perforations.

TREE ENDS

23. Layer and attach the face tree end shape with

two underlay shapes. Immediately press flat until dry.

24. Layer and join the reinforcing edge strip

shapes for two sides and bottom strip,

taking care that all cut edges are aligned.

Immediately press flat until dry.

25. When all components are dry, position the side

strips and bottom strip onto backside of tree panel

assembly with notched edges even. NOTE that

center top and bottom corner straight edges should

abut snugly to each other when correctly positioned.

Immediately press flat until dried.

26. If you plan to use the decoration panels for

tree ends, it may be well to assemble these, layer

and join to the tree panels while all are unattached,

to enable pressing flat while adhesive dries.

Refer to the Ginger Tree Card assembly, Step 4

for description of this step, at this LINK. Then return here.

27. Position and attach the "Optional Contrast

Underlay" shape from the card cut file behind

the decorative tree panel with icing shapes,

with contrast panel cut edges concealed. Then . . .

. . . position and attach the decorative assembly

onto face of tree end assembly.

SHELF ASSEMBLIES

The narrowest shelf unit (top) will be shown here,

but all shelves are assembled in identical manner.

NOTE that the first few shelf shapes will show the slots

for dividers prior to update which changed center 3

to be double slots.

28. Prepare the main shelf shape by bending back

the long front edge flange.

Layer the reinforcement layer (without front flange)

on backside of the main shelf shape - NOTE that

the arrow symbols point to the flange edge which

is the outward edge of the shelf.

29. Layer and join the two pair of end reinforcement

strips, matching arrow symbol direction and

all cut edges. Then . . .

. . . position and attach each on the corresponding

end of the shelf assembly, with arrow symbol cutouts

also near the outward edge/flange edge. 

 Immediately press with large flat weight until dry.

30. Prepare the long and short divider strips to create

tent-like flanges as shown (each three-line sequence

will have "valley" folds with a "mountain" fold between).

Turn the strips face down to apply adhesive between

the flanges, then press them together to create

a standing flange.

This photo shows the completed short and long

strips from front side.

31. Apply adhesive to the face side of the strip

(leaving standing flanges glue-free), then begin at

one end of shelf - with backside facing you - then

insert the single standing flange through the single slot.

Working quickly, continue along the strip to insert

each standing flange into corresponding slot until

all are in place. Invert the shelf to apply pressure

all along shelf along side of and between 

exposed flanges, until all are securely in place.

Complete the sequence by inserting and attaching

the solo flange unit into the remaining end hole.

If possible, use small blocks or anything you can think

of, with other weights on top, to apply flattening

pressure as divider strips with shelf unit glue dries.

Here is what the completed (top) shelf unit looks like.

Complete remaining 5 shelf units.

SHELVES AND CENTER WALLS

32. Attach one top wall shelf to the center wall

 at top row (toward tab'd end) of slots by 

inserting back tabs through slots. 

On backside of wall, bend the tabs downward

and glue securely in place.

(NOTE that the tabs in final cut file are longer.)

TIP: placing an acrylic ruler or equivalent tool along

the shelf edge where tabs are attaching behind wall

and applying pressure may assist with tab attachment.

33. Repeat the shelf-attaching steps to position,

insert tabs of middle shelf at middle slots row, and . . .

. . . bottom shelf tabs into bottom slots row.

(NOTE that bottom shelf final cut shape includes

finger pressure access openings near front edge.)

The prototype project included very short shelf tabs,

so a narrow strip of paper tape was placed behind/

under each shelf to assist with strong attachment.

If you believe this would assist the strength of

your project's shelves joints, do likewise.

34. Complete a second center wall with shelves unit.

35. Prepare the wall units by bending top tabs

forward, then . . .

. . . apply adhesive to the backside of one wall,

and position walls backside to backside,

align edges, and join wall units . . .

. . . taking care that the top tabs remain free.

Apply pressure to help join center walls in any

ways possible, as with other elements thus far.

36. Position the platform assembly at top of center wall

assembly with face side upward and insert tab pairs

through slots there. Bend tabs outward and glue

in place to platform face.

37. Apply double-stick tape adhesive to backside of

the concealer strip, then position (centered) and attach.

TREE ENDS ASSEMBLY

38. NOTE the crenellated high-low edges of shelves

and tree end panel edges that will be joined, then . . .

. . . apply quick grab adhesive (such as Fabri-Tack)

to apply a bead of glue along low parts of shelf ends

and also face and back narrow margins of tabs.

Immediately position and fit shelf tabs through tree

slots, working as quickly as this somewhat tricky

process will permit, until all tabs are inserted.

Double check that tree is seated firmly and completely

back into position against low shelf end edges,

then hold in place and apply pressure to secure.

39. Apply double-stick tape to backside of the two

top concealing triangle shapes, then position at

backside of tree panels at top, with lower straight

edge flush against platform, side slant edges slightly

offset back from edges and tabs, and attach securely.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

(Complete one end of tree assembly before

beginning second end.)

40. Working quickly, apply quick-grab glue to 

the low edges and behind  tabs where surfaces

 tree of tree panel and walls will touch, between 7 "tabs" at

bottom only of tree and floor panel, and . . .

 

. . . also between bracket strips and to backside of

vertical flanges, then . . .

. . . slot the bottom edge of center wall into space

between connector brackets while at the same time

inserting the "tabs" of tree panel bottom edge

to interlock with the floor panel "tabs". Adjust and

check until all are in place as described, then

hold and apply pressure until secure.

41. Apply same adhesive at low edges of tree

and side wall "curve" then wrap "tabs" into

position and secure.

42. Continue in the same manner to apply

adhesive to the low edges and also behind tabs

where surfaces will touch to the remainder of wall

and tree. Wrap it into position and apply pressure

to secure interlocking "tabs".

Repeat for the opposite round corner and side.

43. Repeat steps to position and attach second tree panel.

44. At front and back drawer walls, flex the top panel

flange back away from drawer grid to apply glue

to flange, then reposition flange behind window

opening, with perforation even with window edge.

Apply fingertip pressure all along by reaching into

top drawer openings row. TIP: it may be helpful

to use small binder clips into same position where

fingertips could reach to apply pressure.

45. Repeat similar process to flex shelves to apply

glue along front flange, then reposition with shelf

perforation even with bottom drawer opening edge,

and apply finger pressure to join securely in place.

Here is top shelf. Also repeat for middle and . . .

. . . bottom rows (on both front and back panels)

where finger opening will allow pressure to be

applied to backside of shelf flange.

FINISHING

46. Apply glue to the face surfaces of crest beam

connector flanges and to tree panel top tips, 

then position crest beam assembly along top space 

between drawer panel top edges,

with flanges tucked down behind panel edges until

perforations are even with panel edges.

Hold in place and apply pressure at beam ends to

secure in place. Also reach fingertips up through

windows to secure connector flanges in place.

47. If this has not already been done (see step 27),

apply quick grab adhesive to backside of accent

tree shape, then position so that slots fit over

tabs, and attach in place, on both tree faces.

48. Apply double-sided tape to backside of

finger holes cover, then insert it through bottom row

of windows, position to cover finger openings of

bottom shelf, and apply pressure to attach in place.

Repeat for opposite side bottom shelf.

49. Slide the numbered drawers into position

(this may be best accomplished by first tipping front

upward slightly to tuck back rim reinforcement 

under opening edge) and push fully in.

NOTE that the drawer depths were designed to be

slightly "proud" or not flush with front panel face to

assist with opening.

Drawers 1-12 are arranged on chest front,

with 13-24 arranged on back.

Here is the completed chest with front drawers array.

Add embellishments or decorations as desired,

such as this small ribbon bow and holly sprig.