Display Frame with Chicken Wire Tutorial

Recently Snapdragon Snippets has begun offering a "paper quilt" version of popular Hearthsewn Patterns "On the Docket" mini quilts. There are many fun and interesting ways to display each of these monthly "quilts". 

Featured here is a re-purposed wooden picture frame. Chicken wire has replaced the glass and backing, painted and attached in place. Color-coordinated mini clothes pins hold the paper art in place, making it easy to change each one as a new month begins.

View the construction process in the following steps.

Here are the basic materials and supplies:
11x14 inch wooden frame (mine came from a consignment shop)
standard chicken wire mesh (home and garden or farm store; check your sharing neighbors who may have a small piece)
narrow wooden doweling, 2 each width & length pieces to match the back inset opening measurements
spray acrylic paint cream or white
hot glue for attaching doweling at back inset edges that also holds wire in place
tiny clothes pins painted to coordinate paper artwork (may want different sets)

Check the required measurements of the back inset; add 1" to each dimension to allow approx. 1/2" extra on each side.

Use wire cutters to trim out the size needed from the larger chicken wire piece or roll. Use the "finished" edge of the wire sheet, if possible. Take care to avoid injury from the pokey ends.

Spray paint cut-to-size wire piece and doweling. Apply at least two coats to each side. Apply clear acrylic finish coats if desired.

 Mold the wire piece to fit the inside back. Center the wire's pattern if possible. Trim excess from edges.

Use a flat head screw driver or similar tool to push/crimp the wire deep into the corner that previously held the backing. Repeat for all four edges. Adjust the wire as you work so that it is as flat and "taut" as possible.

Apply a neat bead of hot glue at the inset corner that will adhere wire ends and dowel. Press appropriate dowel piece tightly into the inset corner and hold securely until glue hardens. Repeat for all edges.

Paint the mini clothes pins with acrylic color of choice. Finish with clear top coat, if desired.

Here is the finished display frame. Artwork is pinned in place. Frame can be leaned against a wall or cabinet back, set in a counter-top easel  or hung on a wall (with appropriate hardware attached, or a decorative ribbon row hanger and wall nail). 

Likely you will find many pieces of your paper art to display on your new frame.

'Be MINE Valentine' 3d Letter Box Project

 

Next up in the fun 3d letter box seasonal decor projects is Valentine's Day.

Four letter boxes -- tall and short -- plus two text word cuts

spell out my wish for the winter's most romantic holiday.

Besides the letter box cut files from Snapdragon Snippets of Silhouette America, other fun embellishments make this project both interesting to make and delightful to view.

A short list of the designs follow at the end of this post.

Email Jodi for a more detailed and complete listing of sizes and how they were used

at hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com.

 Here is a closeup of the dimensional M. The simple bee has velum mini wings and black glitter stripes. Mini hearts with tiny scallop circles and itsy pink brads are strung as a silk ribbon garland. The 'be' was styled in Design with text, positioned with a slight center overlap, then welded so it could be cut as one unit.

Next comes the tall 'i', with its dimensional heart 'jot' suspended above, and a triple thick key with metal angel charm tied on with narrow sheer ribbon. 

Following is the glitter-decorated 'n'. I used a hearts overlay cut from Silh's double-stick adhesive, liberally sprinkled with red glitter from my coupon-sharing fabric store.

As the caboose, the 'e'  is cupid-pierced by a dimensional-ized arrow with red glitter tail plume. The 'valentine' word cut-out is mounted on a two-layer tag that is tied onto the arrow shaft (and glued in place on the 'e' edge). 

All three of the lower case letter boxes are soon-to-be-released limited edition 3d cut files from Snapdragon Snippets. Appearing here in their original sizes, the 'n' and the 'e' get needed elevation from a customized base box created by me in "Design". Details can be obtained as part of the Fact Sheet available by email.

Finally is the colorful mail box holding a small treasury of miniature valentine envelopes. Using a premium two-sided print paper makes this box an instant delight. 


Watch for the next project as we move through the familiar holidays this year by visiting this blog often. Or find images of projects on flickr or facebook (hearthsewn patterns).

I would love to hear what you think of these projects, 

and if there are holidays or themes you wish you could see as ensembles 

presented here in the future.

Cut files used:
by Snapdragon Snippets - 3d M, (i, n, e can be purchased directly from Snapdragon Snippets website); bumbling bee; flourished hearts background; heart (lacy edge with highlight); cupid's arrow; 3d heart cupcake topper ('i' jot)
by others - antique key, 1-bag topper kit valentine, 3D mailbox, envelope

February On The Docket Tutorial Part 1: Scrappy Heart MPF

This tutorial begins with machine paper foundation piecing of the Section 1: Scrappy Heart Block. 
Prep step: Cut out one foundation of this block from your photocopy, leaving a scant margin BEYOND the outer solid line (which is the final trim line). Use a bookmark, thin plastic ruler, or equivalent as a folding tool. Lay tool on the face side of the paper section, along each interior line and crease. See how the paper is being folded print side to print side. 

The paper foundation section includes:
solid stitching lines, stitching order numerals, fabric or color designations, & dashed seam allowance indicator line near outer solid line.

Step 1. Identify patch #1, and its color.

Step 2. Look at the shape of patch #1 from the backside (defined by creases in prep step). Free-hand cut a patch from indicated color, adding a generous 1/4" seam allowance to the creased shape size.

Step 3. On the backside of the section foundation paper, use a little dab of fabric glue stitch to position and attach the backside of the cut patch in place. I have traced a dashed line on my crease lines to show #1 shape. Make sure the shape is centered within the fabric patch boundary edges. 

Step 4. From the front, locate patch #2 and identify fabric to be used.

Locate the stitching (solid) line BETWEEN #1 and #2. This is the TARGET stitching line.

Fold the paper along that crease. Keep the shape to be added - patch #2 here - as the top layer, so it will remain MOST VISIBLE.

Step 5. Place the identified fabric FACE UP on the work surface. ("Fabric" can be either an oversize cut patch as in Step 2, or simply the edge of your yardage piece.)

Position section (with patch #1 in place) over the fabric with crease a generous 1/4" in from cut edge. Make sure the target PATCH SHAPE will be contained within the fabric cut edges.

Positioning checker: Note how the patch being added AND the patch already in place are RIGHT sides together, as in conventional piecing.

Once this positioning is achieved, carefully UNFOLD the paper diagram without letting anything shift.

 Step 6. Adjust machine straight stitch length to 14-16 stitches per inch (about half conventional piecing stitch length). 

Load machine with neutral beige or gray thread. 

Insert needle 2 stitches before the actual beginning of the target line. Stitch EXACTLY on the line . . . . .

. . . .then stitch 2 stitches beyond the actual end of the line. Do not backstitch at beginning or end of "seam".

 Here you can see the stitching just completed from the backside of the diagram where the fabric patches are being added.

NOTE that the fabric for patch #2 is laying OPPOSITE of the dashed lines defining the actual area #2 as it was being stitched to join. THIS IS CORRECT even though it may seem backwards. (See the next image.)

 Step 7. Press the fabric patch #2 back along seam.
It will now be in position to cover the crease-defined shape #2. To check that this is the case, pick up the foundation and with the print side toward you, hold it up to a light source. You will be able to see "through" the paper enough to see the fabric outlines. Just make sure that the creased shape falls within the fabric edges with enough allowance to trim back to 1/4" all around.

 Step 8. Fold back the diagram along the most recent stitching line/crease. Use rotary equipment to trim excess to 1/4" beyond crease.

The ruler being used here is "Add-A-Quarter" which has a 1/4" ridge on the bottom that will "catch" against the thickness of the paper fold to assist in quickly making this cut.

Continue folding along each crease that defines patch #2 and trimming 1/4" beyond paper fold. (For patch #2, there are 6 sides to the shape.) Many of these trims will involve ONLY patch #2 fabrics.

 Step 9. Identify patch #3 and its stitching line (between #3 being ADDED and numbers 1 & 2 which are already IN PLACE. Fold paper diagram along that line. Note that as you fold, the stitches at that end of the previous seam will need to pull free (or un-do themselves) to allow this process. This is the correct result.

 Step 10. Repeat Step 5 to position the #3 shape as seen from paper backside (pen-dash outlined for this image) over the FACE-side-up fabric.

Repeat the unfolding, stitching, pressing and trimming processes in Steps 6-8, this time for patch #3.

This image shows patch #3 being pressed back into final position. 

Next comes: repeating the visual check, turning diagram over on cutting surface to sequentially crease on stitching line to trim 1/4", and all of the other lines that define the shape for patch #3.

This is the process to join the remaining patches through #7 that create the Scrappy Heart Block.

Here you can see the completed heart patchwork (along with background patch #1). 

Now we will add the background shapes which involve "half-square" triangles and strips.

Grain line selection has been more or less left to chance up to this point. Now we will add more information about using better grain line choices.

Step 11. Identify the next patch, #8, and the target seamline between it and previously-attached fabric patches. Since it is a triangle that is the shape attained when dividing a square on the diagonal, a patch can be easily pre-cut then easily joined. If the fabric is NON-DIRECTIONAL, the process produces 2 triangles, so one can be used for #8 and the other for #9.

Step 12. Envision the size patch that will be required. Easy geometrics like these triangles work well with this shortcut. I have traced a RED line around my shape that includes the 1/4" seam allowance. If I use a ruler to measure the hypotenuse legs of the triangle (top and right side lines that connect at the right angle corner), I can figure the square that would be required. My calculation is a 1 1/4" square, but I need to bump it larger to allow for some trim and some safety. So I cut my single background (pink) square 1 3/4" x 1 3/4", then cut it on the diagonal, too.

 Step 13. Now position the triangle as for the other patches, that is FACE up on the work surface. The paper foundation is folded on the target seam line crease. Position the #8 area (shown outlined in red pencil here) over and within the shape of the triangle. Once adjusted, paper is unfolded carefully, then the seam stitched as before.

Here you can see the #9 shape which has been stitched-to-join, then pressed back into position. Follow the same steps for #8 and #9. 

Step 14. Follow a similar procedure to supply  triangles for patches 11 & 12, then complete the joining, pressing and trimming process. A suggested square cut size would be 
2 5/8" x 2 5/8" (increasing this from the measured required triangle edge at 2 1/8").

 Step 15. Add remaining patches to complete the block - #13-15. Cut strips that are adequately wide (such as 1 1/4") and appropriate lengths, cut one strip that is long enough to complete all four block sides, or work from the edge of the yardage.

There is only one small difference to NOTE: for #14 & #15, the ends of these seams will NOT be crossed by any additional seams. Therefore, stitch on the lines, but BEGIN at the paper edge, stitch across, then END by stitching off the paper edge. 

This image shows the untrimmed block with ALL the fabric patches in place.

 Step 16. Turn the foundation to printed side up. Use rotary equipment to trim away excess EXACTLY on the outer solid "trim" line. Trim all four edges.

 Now turn over your Scrappy Heart block and do some admiring. You have earned it!

 Step 17. Remove the paper foundation from the fabric patchwork. To do this, work from highest number to lowest. We begin here with #15. Refold along the line/crease, then begin at one end to tear the paper away along the perforations created by the stitching.

(The shortened stitches pay off here!)

Continue working to next lowest number patch, flexing the paper slightly to help the paper pull away from the stitching.

View other tutorials for other parts of this pattern project, including a comparison of the smaller machine paper foundation blocks, checker & fusible hearts panels, layering and machine quilting, and ribbon insertion at the upper binding seam.

February On the Docket Part 4: Machine Quilting & Finishing

With center panel piecing completed, use rotary tools to "straighten" edges  by trimming ONLY scant irregularities along all sides.

After this, add narrow borders (sides then top & bottom) and outer borders (same order). Take special care to make straight seams to avoid "wobbles". Press seams outward after each is stitched.

Mark quilting guidelines as desired. All Docket mini quilts have a 1/4" "echo" line traced beyond narrow border outer seam (tracing onto outer border). Use temporary marking tool, either tailor's style chalk pencil or wash-out fine-tip as is shown here.

This image shows the 1/4" echo line being added around the Scrappy Heart Block. For February, all other quilting follows seams or applique edges, so the two echo outlines are the only ones to be traced.

Cut a backing panel of your own choosing, and a thin batt panel, each about 1/2" larger than quilt top on each edge. Center the layers in the order shown: backing face down, batting, quilt top face up. Smooth and pin with straight pins or safety pins, or quickly add hand baste stitches to secure the layers from shifting.

 Machine stitch will be just slightly larger than a regular piecing stitch for the quilting. Engage machine's walking foot if you have one.

Since tying off the quilting runs is tedious, I suggest beginning near the lower right edge of the quilt at the outer border seam to eliminate one tie off. Stitch from the top's raw edge in the seam - referred to as "in-the-ditch" or "ditch" quilting. Take care that the needle is piercing NEXT to the fold of the seam and not ON the fold. Take care for this throughout.

 Quilt in the ditch along this narrow border OUTER seam all around, pivoting carefully exactly at the corners. When you return to the previous quilting stitches, pause for the next stage without stopping and tying off.

At the corner that ends the first circuit of the mini quilt, carefully pivot to stitch following the seams (and thereby "hide" the transit stitches) to get to the marked echo line. 

Quilt on the echo line all around until quilting connects to the beginning of the run. Then stitch following the seams to work back toward the inner seam of the narrow border.









Quilt in the ditch all around along this seam. When the circuit is completed, you will need to "tie off" to secure the stitching.

A. Begin the tie-off process about 1" before you reach the end of the quilting for that section. 
B. Adjust stitching length to about half of what you have been using. Quilt for 1/2 to 3/4". 
C. Adjust stitching to very short length, but not to stitch in place. Complete quilting to end of run. 
D. Adjust stitch length to 0. Make 2-3 stitches in place.
E. Clip top thread next to fabric surface. Tug bobbin thread on backside of quilt to pull top tail end toward backside, then clip bottom thread next to fabric surface.

Complete the quilting along the panels, "tying on" in reverse order as listed in previous paragraph. That is, begin with 2-3 stitches in place (machine set at 0 length), then adjust to very short stitch and stitch 1/4" (5-6 short stitches). Adjust to half of final length and stitch 1/2" to 3/4" further, and finally adjust to preferred quilting stitch length and continue quilting.

Here I am "ditch" quilting the Scrappy Heart block. Stitch on top of previous stitches for short, selected lengths, or follow connecting seams to reduce tying off whenever possible.

After completing quilting, trim excess batt and backing even with quilt top. Square up quilt top by trimming away "wobbles" or irregularities at the same time.

Baste layers together with long hand stitches, if desired (this can be done prior to beginning quilting).

Before binding, cut the ribbon ties (or fabric tabs for tubes, as referenced in next image) and position in place at top raw edges of quilt layers; refer to pattern for placement notes.

Here you can see - near center left edge of photo - that a ribbon end is positioned BOTH on the backside and exactly corresponding on the front side.

Pin in place, machine baste. Also complete cross-stitched tag with twill tape and position ends at upper raw edge as directed and shown below, then apply binding. Refer to the binding tutorial on this blog for further details.

This image shows the alternate fabric tab tube for hanging detail from the quilt's front, along with the embroidered month tag twill tape secured in the binding seam.

Tab end not caught in binding seam on front is folded to the backside, positioned, then included in the hand stitching of the binding on the backside.

Winter Quilts Etc. Classes by Jodi Warner

If you live in the Sandy or Salt Lake City, Utah area

and have been hoping to enroll in a class to create your own

On the Docket month-by-month mini-banner quilt projects,

the first three of the series have been scheduled in the opening months of 2013

at Quilts, Etc., in Sandy, UT.

See their class listing and other details at

www.quilt-etc.com

and click on the "Classes" tab for the alphabetical class title listing.

MARCH On the Docket

February 16th, 10:30 a.m. - 1 p.m.

APRIL On the Docket

March 16th, 10:30 a.m. - 1 p.m.

One more class on the schedule:

Act Upon These Values

Young Women's Values Quilt

March 23 & 30, 10:30 am - 12:30 p.m.