Wednesday, February 28, 2018

Liberty Bell 3D Box and Banners

Stylized replica of an iconic object, dimensional bell is 
composed of hexagonal hull and domed base. 
A painted 1" wooden ball can be attached
under base at domed center as a realistic clapper.
Optional hull overlays can imitate the famous crack. 

Accent shapes provide details, including real twine 
that can wrap over yoke and bracket with 
mini brad or stud "bolts". 
Coordinates with "LIBERTY"  and "FREEDOM" 
word arch separate designS. 
Measures approx. 6" tall x 4" deep x 6.25" wide. 
(Assembly tips for the banners are found
at step 41.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes for bell:
A front bell wedge (includes top slotted hexagon)
B bell wedges (5)
C base rim   D base dome (underside shaping)
E optional dome cover (to hide finger hole)
F optional front wedge "crack" accents
G connector stem front and back
H connector stem build up (6-7)
I connector top build up (9 for each of 2)
J connector mid build up (9 for each of 2)
NOT SHOWN: bottom edge accent strips
2. Identify and cut the shapes for yoke:
(NOTE most of the accent paper was changed in 
the final project from wood grain to red stripe)
K main yoke shape with accents
L yoke under arch boxing strip
M yoke arm reinforcement boxes (2)
N end pivot "log" nubs (2) with accents
O top yoke stops (6 build up for each of 2)
P rope brackets (5 build up for each of 2)
3. The model project includes a 1" wooden ball
(such as the ones shown, available through
Hobby Lobby) that has been painted and
matte varnished for the simulated clapper.
If desired, procure and prepare the ball.
4. To make the assembly process more efficient,
prepare the shapes that include built-up layers 
first, to allow sufficient time to be pressed and dry.
CONNECTOR STEM: Layer and glue together 
the 6-7 interior build up layers, taking care to align 
all edges as precisely as possible.
Next, position and attach the front and back
stem shapes which include a bottom edge tab
which should be bend forward first, then . . .
the portion above positioned precisely and
 glued in place while the tabs remain unattached.
For all built-up shapes, it will be needful to
press them under a flat heavy object such as
this muslin-wrapped re-purposed flat weight
until completely dried, to avoid warping and curling.
Layer and glue up 9 for each of two
for each of the Tops and Mids
BRACKETS: Layer and glue up 5 for front
and 5 for back.
ROPE STOPS: Layer and glue up 6 for
each of 2.
5. Prepare all bell wedge shapes by bending
side tabs back, bending on horizontal perf lines:
top hexagon "lid" and top tabs back (mountain folds)
top and bottom lines back (mountain);
middle two lines forward (valley folds)
6. Add the "crack" accent faces to the panels
of front wedge, if desired.
7. Position second wedge shape next to front wedge
and line up middle (largest) segment,
placing straight edge over corresponding tab
to perforation line, adjusting top and bottom
for alignment, then glue in place.
NOTE: since the wedge edges being added
will actually need to wrap over the upper perf
line crest, the straight edge should be just a hair
higher than straight-line alignment of perf lines.
8. Bend the upper panels so that the straight
edge can align at the corresponding perf line,
then adjust and glue in place. Continue . . . 
. . . to line up (one by one) the bottom two segments
of the seam in the same fashion, bending/flexing
both edges to match angle that allows alignment
9. Repeat steps 7-8 to add the remaining four
sections to the assembly, then . . . 
. . . form the assembly into a tube to
complete the final seam in the same way.
10. Bend the hex "lid" down into position,
adjust the edges for alignment, then
glue the edges in place to the tabs.
TIP: it may be helpful to align and glue the
edge opposite the connected hex side
first, then adjust the two angles on each side.
11. If desired and applicable, darken the crack
of the front panel overlays with a graphite (regular)
or colored (black or dark brown) pencil.
12. Position the bottom edge accent strips
for "whole" panels and "crack" panels.
13. Prepare the rim shape by bending back
all walls and tabs at perforation lines.
14. Prepare under dome shape by bending back
edge tabs, bending forward at wedge tabs
(take care to crease all the way to center)
and hex edge perforation lines.
15. Join dome seams by overlapping straight
seam edge over adjacent wedge tab perforation
line and glue in place. Repeat for all seams.
16. Prepare to attach dome behind the rim shape
by lining up the dome edge tabs with the rim
inner straight edges . . . 
. . . taking care that ends line up and edge
is at perf line, then glue in place, one by one.
NOTE: it will be helpful to turn the assembly over
face down on flat surface to apply additional
fingertip pressure to help seams attach securely
all around.
17. Complete each rim side seam by bending
adjacent panel edges inward to line up straight
edge to overlap corresponding tab perf lines.
Complete bottom portion of seam, then bend
upper portions inward to align and join.
(TIP: two-part seam may be completed in
same step, just take care to align edges & perf lines)
18. Prepare the main yoke section by bending
back on all panel and tab perforation lines.
19. Prepare the under-arch boxing strip by
bending all panel perforation lines forward (valley)
and bending back all edge tabs.
20. Position and attach all accent shapes
while the yoke main shape is flat.
21. Prepare to attach the arch boxing strip
by positioning center tab of strip next to 
center straight segment of yoke, then 
adjust ends and attach in place.
22. Continue to align, adjust and attach
the remaining strip tabs at corresponding
straight edges of yoke on both sides
of the center segment.
23. Repeat the process to join the arch strip tabs
to the other side of yoke at arch edges.
24. Bend side panel tabs inward, the tuck
side panel in between front and back yoke panels,
align straight edges at perf lines, and glue in place.
Complete both ends.
25. Prepare the pivot log nubs by bending
back on all panel and upper tab lines,
bending bottom tabs forward.
26. Form the nub into a tube to join 
the side seam, then . . . 
. . . bend top tabs inward, top octagon "lid"
down into position and attach in place
with straight edges aligned at tab perf lines.
27. Add nub octagon accent shape.
28. Position nub at end panel and insert
tabs into slots, then . . . 
. . . bend tabs outward on backside of side panel
wall, and attach in place.
29. Prepare the yoke arm reinforcement box
by bending back on all perforation lines.
30. Form the box into a tube to bring side edge
to overlap opposite tab to perf line and attach
in place, then . . . 
. . . bend "lid" into position, align edges,
and attach to tabs.
(Complete 2 boxes.)
31. Identify the front face of the reinforcement
box by locating the 'F' cut (enhanced
in this image for visibility), then . . . 
. . . insert the boxes into each arm of yoke
and push three-quarters in.
Apply adhesive next to lower edge of 
each side, then  . . . 
. . . push box completely in until flush with
yoke bottom edge, and apply pressure
to walls all around to complete the joining.
32. Position the top build up shapes onto
front and back top of main connector stem assembly,
aligning all edges that match.
(Press flat with weights while drying.)
33. Insert stem bottom edges (take care with tabs)
into the top hoke slot, then . . . 
. . . carefully work through the arch slot.
Before sliding all the way flush, apply adhesive
to the build-up edge of top add-ons front and back,
then push all the way in and allow stem to 
attach in place.
34. Insert stem end into bell top plate slot
(take care with tabs), then . . . 
. . . bend tabs outward on the inside of bell,
and attach in place.
NOTE: it will be helpful to reach hand/fingers
inside bell to apply finger pressure to tabs
while glue dries.
35. Position the mid stem build-up shapes
on stem between yoke and bell top,
and attach in place, including adhesive
on the build-up edges at top and bottom.
Repeat the two-hand pressure process
pictured in the image above to assist
 complete joining of stem edges to bell and yoke.
36. Fit the bell base into the bottom recess
of bell assembly.
NOTE: if using as box, leave the base detachable.
If using ad a decoration, base may now be
glued in place.
37. Position and attach each rope stop shape
onto yoke top face, matching silhouette
of accent shape for placement.
38. Position (centered side to side and vertically)
brackets over stem, and attach where surfaces touch.
39. Add "rope" detail on each side of center top
by threading a tapestry style needle (large eye)
 with twine or perle cotton then threading
 back-to-front from between brackets
(where tail will be left for tying off), then wrapping
over yoke and outside of stops, then down to
thread through bracket holes to repeat
wrap 2-3 times. Finally, insert needle front-to-back
through bracket hole to exit between brackets.
Tie tail and lead end into square knot that
will "hide" between brackets, trim ends short.
40. If using ball clapper, position and glue
in place with bottom resting in the finger hole.
(Use quick grab glue such as Fabri Tack
or hot melt glue.)
If NOT using the wooden ball clapper,
and base is glued in place (DECORATION), 
use the optional bottom hex cover to center and 
attach in place to cover the finger hole cutout.
NOTE: if the bell remains a BOX, the finger hole
should remain accessible to remove base
more easily.

Here is the completed bell.
41. Layer the banner shapes and attach together
(point-ends bottom layer, "shadow" turn-back mid layer,
simple banner top layer).
Use the letter position guide cut shape . . .
. . . to position at lower edge of top banner layer,
then lightly pencil in position markings at letter
cutout edges.
NOTE it may be possible to use the "waste"
cutouts as position guides, if preferred,
through slightly more difficult.
Position and attach each letter at penciled
marks. (Erase any marks that remain visible.)
If using with the Liberty Bell project,
position, centered, at top of yoke,
and attach banner lower ends where
they overlap.

No comments:

Post a Comment