Monday, June 11, 2018

Fishing Boat 3D Model

Realistic weekender row boat has shaped hull, 
rim with accent, bow overlay, stern "box" overlay and 
middle seat (build up with layered shapes, if desired), 
layered built-up oars with oar locks. 
Gift card "outboard" compartment option includes 
substitute stern panel with slot, 
sleeve that attaches inside hull. 
Measures approx. 7" long x 3.5" wide x 1.5" tall. 
Coordinates with "Grab the Bait Celebrate" or
"Dad Fish Gift Tag" designs.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A   main hull bottom with prow wedge panels,
1-5 side wedge panels for left and right,
stern panel
B hull bottom build up panels for weight (3)
C optional gift card interior sleeve (pocket)
D optional interior liner to cover wedge seams
(use this panel only when NOT using gift card sleeve)
E hull rim   
F hull rim overlay accent with oar lock slots
G bow overlay panel with eyelet tabs
(NOTE an alternative bow overlay without tab slots
is also included in cut file)
H oar lock shapes (2)
I seat top layer with "rivet" holes, contrast
panel, build up shapes (6)
J tack box shape top layer and build up shapes (6)
K oar build up shapes (6 for each of 2 oars)
L paddle front and back accents (2 for each of 2 oars)
M handle overlays (2 for each of 2 oars) 
2. Layer and attach the hull bottom build up
shapes (for strength and weight), taking care
here and throughout with any layered, built-up
assembly, that all edges are lined up as precisely
as possible as each is layered onto the stack.
Press under a large flat weight during the drying
process (when using liquid adhesive) to help
keep the assembly flat, to avoid warping & curling
(see weight illustration at the end of step 5).
3. Prepare the hull main shape by bending
back on all panel and tab perforation lines.
4. Position the "cured" bottom built-up unit
on the outside bottom of the hull shape,
aligning edges or edge to perf lines at top.
Press under flat weight while drying.
5. Prepare the seat unit by layering the
build-up shapes into a stack, layering the top
shape (rivet holes) over the contrast layer. Then . . .
. . . layer the top unit over the stack and glue in place.
Use a flat weight such as this muslin-wrapped
re-purposed free weight over the assembly
to flatten, avoiding warping and curling, until
completely dry.
6. Layer the 6 main oar shapes for each of two oars,
taking care to align cut edges as precisely
as possible. Press under flat weights while drying.
7. Position and attach the paddle accent shapes
over the paddle faces of each built-up stack.
8. Position and attach handle overlays
over the stack on both front and back.
Press each oar flat while drying.
9. Layer the tack box shapes into a stack
and attach shapes together. Press while drying.
10. Bend the center top hull wedge back
along with the first side wedge so that straight
edge overlaps to tab perf line on bottom (first)
segment, adjust and join this portion of seam.
11. Continue to bend and adjust wedge sections
to complete the middle, and then the top portions
of this seam.
12. Repeat for the seam that joins opposite side
of center wedge with opposite side wedge.
13. Identify the side wedges for proper placement.
Wedges have tiny numerals cut into an upper side
tab (indicated by left pointing finger).
Additionally, the left side wall wedges also include
a half circle notch along top flange tabs.
Prepare all wedges by bending back on horizontal
perforation lines and tab lines.
This illustration shows the left set of side wedges
in relationship roughly with the main hull edge
to which they will attach.
14. Prepare left wedge #2 by bending bottom tab
back, then placing the fold edge along the inside
straight edge next to the previously-joined front
side edge. Adjust so that fold edge ends fall at
hull bottom angles, then join in place.
15. Un-bend wedge into position so that
straight side edges of front side wedge will
overlap to perf lines. Position each section
of wedges, one at a time, and glue each in place,
working from bottom to top.
16. Continue in the same manner to position 
wedge #3 along next segment of hull bottom edge,
attach, then re-position to join side seam sections.
Add wedges #4 & #5 in same manner,
then repeat for the right side wedges.
17. Position the back (stern) panel into position
with bottom flange perforation line aligned
at hull back bottom edge, adjust and glue in place.
(NOTE the model is using the opt. stern panel that
includes the gift card slot.)
18. Bend wedge #5 edges and stern panel edges
to align and join the 3 seam segments along
both sides.
19. To prepare the gift card interior sleeve,
identify the "top" flange that has the triangle notch.
Bend back at center perforation, bend forward
at end flange perforation lines.
20. Position the non-notched bottom flange
below the slot opening at the inside face of
the stern panel, centered with perforation edge 
along slot edge, and glue in place.
21. Fold the sleeve in toward the center of the hull
to position the top (notched) flange perforation fold
above the card slot, and glue in place.
22. To assist the sleeve to stay parallel to boat bottom,
consider placing one or two foam squares
invisibly between the sleeve underside and hull bottom.
To demonstrate, the gift card can be inserted
into the slot from boat back end, to rest
inside and between the sleeve layers.
23. Bend rim tabs of side and back panels inward,
then position rim shape over top of hull. 
Line up the top narrow edge of rim over
the center front panel of hull at perforation line,
adjust side to side, and attach tab to underside
of rim.
24. Apply glue along back wedge panel top tab
and line up, attach back edge of rim shape.
Apply adhesive along one side of wedge panel
tabs and attach rim edges to tabs, taking
care to adjust so that rim straight edges
line up as precisely as possible to wall tab
perf lines. Repeat for second side walls.
25. Prepare rim accent shape by bending forward slightly
along perforation lines at tip and 3 pairs along sides.
26. Add some curl to the center portion
of each of oar locks by drawing across a narrow
rod tool such as the knitting needle shown, or
a wooden skewer, etc. while applying finger
pressure (think curling ribbon).
27. Bend end tabs back slightly.
Oar locks should look approximately as shown.
28. Insert oar lock tab ends through tiny slots
on rim accent shape from front.
Glue tabs to underneath surface of rim accent.
29. Position rim accent unit centered over hull rim . . . 
. . . lining up top perf line to fit into rim perf line
in similar position, and . . . 
. . . with bottom opening end edges lined up.
30. Prepare bow accent shape by bending forward
slightly on the perforation line.
NOTE: this is the optional bow accent that includes
the eyelet accent tab slot.
31. Bend the eyelet tabs ends forward.
Position the two tabs back to back and glue
together the hole punch portions, leaving
the end tabs free.
32. Insert eyelet end through slot from backside,
then . . . 
. . . bend end tabs outward and glue in place
to backside of bow accent.
33. Position bow accent top point centered 
near top center of accent rim shape 
at cut 'V' guide mark, and attach.
34. Position seat unit centered across hull opening
just behind the oar locks, and glue securely in place.
Also position and attach the tack box unit
across the back as shown.
35. Insert oar ends inward through oar locks.
Here is the completed boat model.
If using the gift card slot and sleeve option,
insert the gift card through outboard slot
and push in fully. Slot narrowness will
hold card without tape or other adhesive.
Consider adding one last embellishment:
twine with wooden bead tow rope.



5 comments:

  1. I love all your designs and have lots of them. I'm so glad you have written instructions instead of videos.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. So good to receive this comment from you. I am much better at words than I am at video editing. Mostly, I get comments from people who wish I did video.

      Delete
  2. amo cada un de sus diseños, espero ansiosa que publique el siguiente, este es una belleza !!

    ReplyDelete