Stitch up self-standing decorations for the Thanksgiving
season that can double as keepsake greeting cards,
perhaps as a
hostess gift.
Doubled layers of stitching holes panel cut from
65 lb. weight
cardstock are layered, aligned, and glued
then pressed flat until dry.
Follow colored stitching chart included in cut file.
Add “buffer” layer(s) to
mount behind the stitching panel,
then attach the panel assembly to front of
easel card base.
Thread soft ribbon through the punch hole pairs
for final embellishment.
Stitch up the pair or create a kit to
give for someone else.
Easel card measures approx.
3.75” wide x 5.75 tall.
Pair with companion design
“Env A6 Acorn Tuck Flap”.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes for the design
being stitched:
for Guy: A card base front panels (2) to layer for strength
B card base back full panel with perforation
C card base lower back panel to layer with B
D accent hole punches reinforcement
E cross stitching holes panel (2 to layer)
F buffer layers to layer, attach behind stitched panel
for Gal: A card base front panels (2) to layer for strength
B card base back full panel with perforation
C card base lower back panel to layer with B
D accent hole punches reinforcement
E cross stitching holes panel (2 to layer)
F buffer layers to layer, attach behind stitched panel
from the cut file or refer to it on-screen.
(NOTE a correction was made in the final Gal design
that IS NOT shown in this chart; cut file chart is correct.)
2. Obtain blunt-tip tapestry needle will also be needed,
suggested size 22 or 24.
3. Obtain embroidery floss for stitching.
Shown here are the DMC floss colors used for the samples.
Colors needed for Guy:
light gray for belt, darker gray/silver for buckle,
black, brown for hair, cream/white, flesh tone
Colors for Gal: all but the 2 grays at left
PANELS PREPARATION AND GLUE-UP
4. Prepare the two stitching hole-punched panels
by making sure that all "chads" or cut out "crumbs"
are removed. One way to do this is to bend
a standard paper clip end straight then use it
to poke through all holes not already vacant,
then brush or scrape away extra bits.
5. Position one panel on top of second and working quickly,
attach together, taking care that ALL outer cut edges
plus stitch hole edges align as precisely as possible.
One way to check that the holes align is to use
the paper clip tool to poke through various holes
across the panel, particularly at edges and corners, etc.
Immediately place the glued-up unit on flat work surface
and press flat under a heavy flat object such as
a heavy wood plank or thick book volume, possibly
with something else heavy placed on top.
Leave pressure on until glue is dried completely and
NOT still cool to touch. Pressing flat like this will help
minimize warping or curling of the liquid-glue attached unit.
Immediately press each under a similar heavy
flat weight and leave there until fully dried.
7. For easel card back panel, fold the full length panel
forward at the cross perforation that defines
the header upper portion from main body.
Position the half panel at the bottom portion,
adjust so that bottom and side edges align as
precisely as possible, then glue in place and
press until glue is dried in similar manner.
NOTE that the top edge of half panel should fall
a tiny bit below the perforation fold to allow for
free bending of easel form.
CROSS STITCHING
(Stitching steps will be shown for Pilgrim Guy.
Some of these images show floss from another design.)
8. Prepare to stitch by cutting a 32-36 inch
length of 6-ply floss for the bottom row (black).
Following sub-steps will describe how to separate single strands
from the 6-ply group to minimize knotting:
A) Separate 2 plies by holding the grouped floss length
somewhat firmly between fingers of offhand, isolating one
ply to pull away, then . . .
. . .pull it gently away from others
while the twists of the group begin to bunch up behind it.
B) Place the two plies side by side and line up one set of ends.
Bring end pairs together to create a loop at opposite end.
C) Thread the ends (or the loops) through
the needle eye.
Pull the ends or loops through then adjust loop end so
that it is the long end.
9. Study this diagram to understand how to form
cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.
NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally
placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT
stitches placed coming back across the row.
10. For this project, begin at the bottom left edge where
the first cross stitch will be created.
Each square on the pattern chart represents 4 holes that
would be needed to create both the right and left slants.
A) Insert the needle with thread UP from backside
in the TOP LEFT HOLE where the first X will be made.
of the loop end remains, then insert the needle
diagonally to complete the first right slant stitch.
through the loop and . . .
. . . pull the loop tight to remove all slack.
This is the "tying on" process.
On the front of work, insert needle to prepare
to continue the right slant stitches to complete row 1
and add these all across the first row.
direction to move back to the left to complete the left
slant stitches all across.
D) Skipping the WHITE row, move up to the next row,
and insert the needle up from the backside into
top left hole that will complete the first X stitch for that row.
all across, then return back to complete the left slant
stitches and complete the row.
E) As stitching proceeds, thread length will 
F) Continue to follow the chart to complete the "black"
eventually be used up. Before length is
unmanageably short, pause when the needle is on
the backside of work as a slant stitch is completed.
Slip needle under 3-4 stitches on the backside, then . . .
. . . slide the needle off, and trim the tails close
to the surface of the work.
This is the "tying off" procedure.
suit color section, skipping the belt rows when needed.
G) Thread white floss onto needle, tie on, and add
the collar stitches according to the charted design.
H) Continue in the same manner to thread up
corresponding chart color and complete face,
eyes, hair, hat. NOTE that once the 2 BRIM hat rows
are completed, it is good practice to pass the needle
up to the first narrower row stitch by slipping needle
and drawing floss under a nearby stitch, working
this pass on the backside of the panel.
I) NOTE for completion of EYES:
complete the pairs of cross stitches that represent eyes
in the usual fashion, tying on a shorter length, and tying off
when they are complete. For better definition of eyes,
use a single strand of floss to complete straight (back)
stitches all around the eye pair of cross stitches, then
passing across backside to complete the other eye.
FINISHING
11. On backside of panel, position and attach the buffer
layer unit, aligning outer edges as precisely as
possible, so that the cut out falls . . .
. . . just beyond the outer
edges of embroidery stitches. Glue in place
and press until completely dried.
unit centered and with same .375" offset margin on
sides and at bottom. Press under flat weights until
fully dried.
13. Apply glue to the card back easel panel
above the perforation line only, then position
back-to-back behind the front panel assembly with
outer edges and hole cutouts aligned precisely.
14. If desired, add a little extra "blush" to figures
using accent highlight ink pad and fingertip.
15. Position and attach the reinforcement
accent so that holes align with offset
edge spacing around reinforcement.
Here is the completed Pilgrim Guy easel card
with a length of soft ribbon wrapped through holes.
PILGRIM GAL STITCHING
16. Follow the same procedures to complete
the cross stitching, including beginning at lower left
for tie on and beginning stitches . . .
. . . and continuing to follow chart to complete color
Consider preparing the coordinated envelope
block areas. NOTE for right side of dress area around
apron, consider working across first full black stitches
row, then working downward to complete area on right
of apron, then returning upward to complete the left slant
stitches of the full black row.
This will avoid carrying stitching back and forth
behind apron at each row.
to enclose the completed easel cards for gifting.
