Polar Bear 3D Sitting Figure

Imitating chunky wood cut outs, this character can 

add cheer to winter decor or deliver a heart-warming Valentine. 

Change bear’s neck ribbon to match season, holiday, 

or recipient’s favorite color. 

Minimalist polar bear figure is composed of body hull 

(LID and BASE that fit snugly together) with push-through 

boxed oval muzzle, half-circle boxed feet 

hat attach in place to hull. 

Add multiple-layered nose and heart, plus eye circles 

(or shiny black stud buttons) accents. Interior support strips 

keep the hull from compressing inward. 

Optional interior angled container can hold weights 

(poly beads, beans, metal washers or hot melt glue filling) 

to give him some gravitas. 

All dimensional body components have 

reinforcement front panel overlays. 

Bear finished size is 6.5” wide x 6.58” tall x 

2.5” deep at bottom.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A assembly LID front panel with 'F' cut-in identifier

B LID front panel overlay

C LID top center boxing strip

D & E LID right & left side boxing strips

F LID bottom boxing strip

G face features: eye (studs) nose (3-4 to layer)

heart (4-5 to layer)

H muzzle assembly front panel

I muzzle front panel overlay (3-4 to stack)

J muzzle boxing strip

K assembly BASE front panel with 'B' cut-in identifier

L BASE front panel overlay

M BASE top center boxing strip

N & O BASE right & left side boxing strips

P BASE bottom boxing strip

(for feet, cut one set and one reversed set)

Q foot assembly front panel (3-4 to stack)

R foot front panel overlay

S foot boxing strip

Interior support shapes:

T & U support strips to join for 'X' strut

W optional interior weighting container (box)

V head area cross support strip

2. Five  project components (nose, heart, muzzle front,

left & right feet fronts) are intended to have

several shapes cut, then stacked and glued together

to present a thickened final shape. Prepare these at

the beginning of assembly so that they can dry and

harden while other assembly progresses. Follow

the same procedure as shown for the nose:

NOSE -  stack and glue the nose shapes together, taking

care to align all cut edges as precisely as possible.

Press the stacked/glued shape under a flat heavy object

such as a thick book volume, possibly with something else

heavy placed on top and leave in place until thoroughly

dried, several hours or overnight. Pressing in this manner

helps avoid warping or curling when using liquid adhesive

LID & BASE HULL ASSEMBLY

3. Identify the LID assembly front with 'F' letter cut into it and

with muzzle oval cut out and eye placement holes,

and the BASE assembly front with 'B' letter cut into it.

The LID and BASE front overlays have NO letter guides.

Also locate and be able to distinguish the LID and

BASE boxing strips and their connection locations

which are shown by single (for LID) and double 

(for BASE) cut out symbols in end or top tabs.

Shown here are the LID (upper) and BASE top strips.

4. The boxing strips will be shaped where they fit to

the curved side edges of LID or BASE assembly panels.

Use a narrow wooden rod dowel or new round shaft pencil

placed behind the strip in the area to be 'curled' and

apply thumb pressure as the strip is drawn gently but

firmly across the rod. For these wide boxing strips,

more than one pass made be required.

For the LID top boxing strip shown here, bend forward

slightly at panel perforations which divide the center head

top edge from the ear edges. Add back curl as described

in the above paragraph in a moderate amount to just the center.

Next, move to the ends of the strip to add back curl

in a tight curl amount, because these areas must conform

to the small curve of the ears.

Lastly, bend the end tabs forward and bend

the connection wedge tabs back to perpendicular.

5. Apply adhesive to the backside of

the construction tabs along the CENTER segment

only. Fit center top edge of LID front assembly panel ('F')

behind (inside) the tabs, adjust to be centered,

and glue in place.

Working from the panel's backside:

be sure to push the ends of the strip wall at

perforation 'corner' firmly into the edge angle

of front panel . . .

. . .on each end, and hold in place while applying fingertip 

or thumb pressure along the margin where the tabs 

are joining underneath.

6. Apply adhesive to the backside of one end ear

segment of boxing strip, then curl it around the ear

edge of panel . . .

. . . until the angle of at end tab perforation can

fit snugly into the panel angle as shown.

Continue to help the strip conform to the panel shape

(there may be a slight margin of difference), then

apply fingertip or blunt pencil end pressure all around

until the tabs are all secure in place.

Repeat for the opposite ear edge.

7. Preview here the shape that the side boxing strip will

have once it is shaped, noting the outward curve at

head side, inward tight curve at shoulder, outward curve

around arm and inward toward tight curve at body

transition, then straight bottom short segment.

NOTE that there are guide "tick" mark cuts along body

edge that will correspond to the corresponding marks

next to the boxing upper edge tabs to provide alignment

clues when assembly progresses. Also, inward curve and

curl areas have tabs created by straight mini tabs.

Use the rod tool to add outward and inward curl

as described in the preview above:

moderate back curl near top for head bulge . . .

. . . then tight "rolled" forward curl at neck . . .

. . . and back curl at arm and right rolled

forward curl at underarm, etc.

NOTE: none of the implied segments of side

body boxing should be BENT.

8. Position, adjust for alignment and join

the right side body boxing strip to the end tab

of the head top (attached) boxing strip.

Allow glue to dry for secure seam.

9. Locate the dash marks on panel and strip and

prepare to attach this portion of the boxing seam

by adding adhesive only to the associated wedge tabs.

(Applying glue onto entire length might get messy and

may dry while adjusting for first section.)

Referring to the inside surfaces may make it easier

to see the guide marks that should align.

Position and "tack" the spot where the guide marks

align to secure that end of seam, then adjust and

shape the boxing to match the panel edge as was done

for the top of head boxing strip. Add fingertip pressure

along the joining edge, with a continually moving motion

to ensure all the tabs attach securely and that the curve

of the panel is pushed snugly into the tab perf lines.

Make sure this seam has a moment to bond before

continuing.

10. For the tight curl section at neck, the tabs cut lines

will flare so that the boxing can fit snugly around panel.

Treat this short segment by it itself to attach, or as part

of the following around-the-arm section.

11. Locate and align the next guide marks, apply adhesive

to this section, then continue to position panel edge

tucked snugly into the boxing tabs as previously done.

12. Complete the final sections of boxing with tight

curl and curve at underarm, then the straight bottom

segment. Take care as this final segment from final

guide marks in Step 11 above to end is worked snugly

into the edge of panel so that the end tab perf bend

does indeed align at the body panel corner.

Here is the first (right) body boxing strip in place.

13. Repeat the process to shape, bend tabs back,

position and attach the left side body boxing strip

as previously described for the right side strip.

14. The bottom boxing strips for LID and BASE look

very similar, so identify the BASE strip which has

the "bite" semicircle along flange edge; set it aside.

Prepare the LID bottom strip by first bending flange

back, and body side end tabs inward. Apply glue

to all of these, then . . .

. . . overlap the bottom panel flange across the front 

panel lower edge, adjusting and aligning ends 

to correspond with body end tabs, then secure 

the three seams involved with fingertip pressure.

15. Complete the LID by positioning and attaching

the front overlay over the hull assembly, adjusting . . .

. . .muzzle opening cut edges and outer edges 

to be as precisely aligned as possible. Then . . .

. . . invert the hull face down on work surface

to thoroughly and quickly apply fingertip pressure

at edges, around muzzle opening, and everywhere

else to ensure complete and smooth attachment.

To minimize warping or distortion of front panels due to

using liquid adhesive, consider placing objects like

these sewing thread spools all around the edges then

placing (balancing) something heavy on top to apply

further continuous pressure to edges until glue cures.

16. Follow the same procedure from Steps 4-15 to complete

the BASE hull.

MUZZLE BOX

17. Add moderately tight back curl to the muzzle

boxing strip.

18. Identify the assembly front panel which includes

the "upward" arrow (inverted 'V') cut into the top front.

NOTE that the muzzle boxing strip tube end tab

is not bended but remains flat.

Form the tube by overlapping the straight edge across

the opposite tab to alignment perf cuts, adjust for

top to bottom tab perf alignment, then join seam. 

19. Identify the wedge tab edge as the outward

position where muzzle assembly panel will be placed,

and bend all tabs back to perpendicular.

Apply glue dabs to each tab backside, then . . .

. . . insert (face down) assembly muzzle panel into

the tube, taking care that the upward 'V' arrow mark

is at top of tube opposite the seam which is at bottom.

Press the panel fully down to rest along tab perf cuts,

allowing and assisting boxing to fit properly.

Apply fingertip pressure all around until secure.

20. Position and attach the muzzle stack 

overlay panel.

21. Bend the inward edge muzzle straight cut tabs

outward to perpendicular and apply dabs of adhesive

to all. Insert the muzzle through inside of LID hull . . .

. . . and through muzzle cut out, then . . .

. . . push completely into place until the tabs catch

at opening edges.

Work quickly to apply fingertip pressure to tabs

all around. NOTE that it may be helpful to position

an elevated edge such as the wood block shown here

or a crisp table edge tucked under hull and in next to

muzzle to provide a "press-against" surface, rotating

the LID to allow fingertip pressure all around.

BASE HULL INTERIOR SUPPORTS

22. Prepare the 'X' strut support strip by laying out

the left and right strips so that the "puzzle notches"

can be fit together. NOTE that inverted 'V' arrow symbols

will assist to make sure the strips are joined correctly:

make sure the arrows point upward for both.

Abut the seam edges and secure with strips of

tape on front and back so that the strip acts as

one continuous piece.

23. Bend the joined strip at the mid perforation lines

allowing the cut-in attachment tabs to pop free.

Also bend end tabs outward as shown here. 

NOTE that the interlocking slits on left and right 

sections should be opposite up or down position.

24. Flex the strip slightly to allow the slots to align

and then gently push the slots together to interlock.

Push the strips together fully so that strip edges align.

Bend edge tabs back, either inward or outward.

25. Test fit the 'X' support to see that the upper bends

and attachment tabs should fit snugly into BASE

at the most inward bulge of neck . . .

. . . and bottom tabs should fit into straight side

edges at hull bottom. 

Apply glue to appropriate tab surface, including

the strip bottom tabs, then position and attach

in place as tested.

26. In similar manner, prepare the cross-head support

strip with top, bottom and side tabs bend back or up.

Position at head widest outward bulge and attach,

taking care and adjusting so that that strip 

does not pull side walls in.

OPTIONAL WEIGHT CONTAINER

27. Polar bear figure will sit better if weighted in some way.

To facilitate this, build the weight container, if desired.

Bend back on all perforations for box walls, end flanges

and tabs, etc.

28. Bend walls inward to form box, aligning and

joining the four corner seams.

29. Decide on and procure your means of weighting figure.

Use doll-making pellets, beans or rice, etc.

For the sample, hot melt glue was used to secure

a number of metal washers in the container.

Hot melt glue was extruded as a base layer, then

washer rings were embedded. Once congealed,

additional layers of glue with washers were added

until sufficient weight amount achieved (box was

not filled).

30. Close and secure the box top by bending side

flanges inward, lid down and tab either inserted

or wrapped over front panel, and glued in place.

31. Position weight contained into bottom of BASE

between angled 'X' support legs, and attach in place.

32. Fit the LID over the BASE and push together

fully. Adjust the curves of walls as needed.

NOTE there may be a little wiggle room between walls.

Apply quick-grab glue such as Fabri-Tack between

walls to join . . .

. . . working quickly to apply fingertip pressure at

inward shaping points such as at ear ends, neck

inward curves, underarms, etc.

FEET

33. Complete 2 feet:

Prepare the foot strip in similar manner to other

curved elements of this design, adding back curl

to the wedge-tabbed portion of boxing strip.

Also bend at straight segment end perforation,

and at curved portion end tab. Bend tabs back 

34. Form the strip into a half circle to join the seam.

35. Insert and attach the assembly foot panel,

push down to attach to backside of tabs.

36. Position and attach the front overlay (stack).

Apply fingertip or other longer-lasting pressure

to ensure good attachment.

37. Prepare the foot units to attach to hull by bending

backside tabs inward to perpendicular.

Apply quick grab glue to tab surfaces, then . . .

. . . position and attach the pair along the bottom

straight edge on hull front.

FINISHING

38. Position and attach nose, heart and eyes.

If desired, artistically tie ribbon bow around neck.

Here is the completed polar bear figure.