Sunday, March 20, 2016

Bunny Easter Box Card

Bunny appears to be climbing out 
of the box in this dimensional card 
(approx 2.75" wide x 2.75" deep by 5.875" tall open) 
which folds flat for sending, 
opens into box tube form for display.
Two bridges hold grass sections (#1), and
three layered Easter eggs (#2).

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main box side/front with lattice & side accents
B main box side and back with side & inside back accents
EASTER word cut (not labeled)
C side flaps with accent overlays
D bridge #1 (front) with grass sections
E bridge #2 (back) with eggs & overlays
F bunny body with under body (ear contr) base
G head with nose, whiskers, paws
H eye contrast underlay
2. Prepare the main box shapes by bending back
at the vertical perforation lines between panels
and at tab/flanges.
3. Join the two main shape halves by overlapping
the side/back straight edge at the opposite tab
perforation line, adjusting so that bottom edges
line up, and gluing in place.
4. Position and attach the accent panels:
lattice on the outter front (line up punch hole) and sides
by centering to allow an offset margin on top
and sides, aligning bottom edges.
5. Position and attach the back accent panel
on the inside back panel of the base in
similar manner.
6. Form the base into a tube for the box shape,
to bring the left back side tab perforation fold
to line up with the side edge of the opposite
back, and join the seam, taking care that
bottom edges are aligned.
NOTE that the symmetrical shape of the box tube
will allow it to be flattened as shown here
so that finger pressure can be thoroughly
applied along the seam.
7. Prepare the flaps by bending back the top tab.
Position and attach the flap accent shapes
to the flap base for left and right flaps.
8. Position and attach each flap tab
along the top angled side edge of the
box base.
9. Layer the tag, then attach (optional glue)
to the front of the box with punch holes aligned,
also position and attach "EASTER" at the top
of the back panel.
Attach decorative mini brad through punch holes.
10. Prepare the #1 bridge by bending side tabs back.
Position the front double grass shape on the front
of the bridge, between the widest-apart position
hash cuts near the bottom edge.
Bottom straight edges of each should line up.
Position and attach the single grass section
on the backside of the bridge
(shape front is turned so that it will be
seen from the front of the card)
centered between the two middle hash cuts.
11. Prepare the back bridge (#2) be bending back
side tabs. Layer the three eggs and their
decorative overlays.
12. Position the two side eggs over the
matching bridge shapes and attach, then
position the center egg between with the
bottom edge overlapping the top arch
of the bridge just enough to get a good connection.
13. With tabs bent back, position the back bridge
into the box interior shape so that it is
approx. 1/3 of the distance forward from the
back panel, and parallel to the front and back.
Top edges of tabs should line up with the
flap crease of side panels.
Glue bridge tabs to the inside sides of
the box base. Before the glue has completely dried . . .
. . . fold the box assembly into its flattened shape
and apply finger pressure through the layers
in the areas where the bridge tabs are being
attached. This will allow the bridge to "self adjust"
slightly so that the box CAN be folded flat in the end.
(Perform this step after the front #1 bridge 
is attached also.)
14. Insert the front bridge into the box interior space
in the same fashion, positioning it half way
forward between the back bridge and the box front.
Align the tab tops and adjust to make sure it is
parallel as for the previous bridge, then
attach side tabs, and press flat as before.
15. Prepare the bunny body by layering the
ear "show-thru" underlay base and the body front
as shown on the right. Also attach nose (bottom
aligned at position guide mark on head) and whiskers
to head.
On the back of the head, position and attach
the eye contrast underlay so that the eye holes
are covered.
(NOTE: blue shape was replaced in the final sample 
project with darker color for stronger contrast.)
16. Position and attach the head to the body base
assembly by lining up head and base head area
edges that match up.
17. NOTE the position markings on the
body "front" shape near each side edge.
Position bunny assembly behind the card front
panel, sliding it downward until the side guidemarks
are even with the box top edges,
and overlapping portions together.
18. Position and attach the paws as shown,
just inside of the front side panel corners,
with top edges slightly above the panel top edge. 
The box card is now complete.
Fold it flat to fit into an oversize envelop . . .
. . . then pop it into box shape for display.

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Knight Helm 3d Child's Hat

Conjure up some make-believe play 
as you create this small child-size knight's helmet. 
Features upper structure with nose piece that cradles 
the three (or more) plume crest at top 
and nose plate extension at bottom, 
attached side 'neck plate' structures, 
face grille that connects at sides with brads. 
Back strap overlaps with three punches on each side
Measures approx. 7" tall (without feathers) x 8" deep x 5.25" wide. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main helmet shape     B eye hole accents
C & D side panels with accent shapes
E grille with accent shapes
F crest build up with accent & nose reinforcement
G feather crest collar   H three feather shapes
2. Prepare the crest collar by bending back
on vertical and horizontal perforation lines,
bending bottom tabs outward.
(NOTE that the top tabs in the final design
are shorter.) 
3. Fold the top tabs to the back and glue in place.
4. Form the collar into a tube to overlap the
straight side edge at the opposite side tab
perforation line, and glue in place.
5. Prepare the collar shape by adjusting its overall shape
to be a diamond.
Insert the bottom tabs into slots on the top of
the main helmet shape . . .
. . . then on the inside bend the tabs outward
and glue in place.
6. Prepare the side panels by layering on the
accent shapes, matching up cut edges
where they align, as shown.
7. Position (dry fit) the side panel onto the side of the
main shape, left and right panels on the appropriate
side of assembly. NOTE that the punch holes
of each should line up, and the dash cut near the
back edge should line up even with the main
helmet shape (indicated here by pointing right finger).
Take note or mark the area of the panel that
will attach to the main helmet shape (excluding
the very back of the accent shape which remains free.
Apply adhesive to the backside of panel where it
will attach, then re-position according to the dry fit,
and attach in place.
8. Form the main helmet shape/assembly into its
hat form by bringing the side edge and front edge
together, side edge to overlap the perforation of
the bent-back tab. Glue in place. Repeat for
opposite side.
Also overlap the back band and attach with brad(s).

9. Prepare the crest build up shape by bending
back on most perforation lines, except nose end
extension at bottom, and side tabs which fold forward.
10. Bring the front center area side straight edges
to overlap the side "boxing" at the flange perforation,
and glue in place. Repeat for each segment of the edge,
and for both left and right sides.
11. Attach the back segment center portion straight
edge along the back side flange, for both left
and right sides.

12. Prepare the crest accent shape by bending the
top two perforation lines back, bottom perf line forward.
Position and attach to the front of the crest, lining up
the punch holes of each.
Also prepare the nose reinforcement shape
by bending the top portion back.
Once in place, attach decoration brads
through punch holes.
Position and attach on the backside
of the crest at nose extension.

13. Insert crest tabs into the main helmet shape,
beginning at the front . . .
. . . then sliding the back diamond cutout over the
collar extension as the back tabs are inserted.
On the underside of the helmet main shape,
bend the tabs outward and glue in place.
14. Prepare the grill shape by bending back on all
perforation lines.
Position (offset) the lower two grille shapes
and the side accent shapes while the crest
is flat.
15. Bend the lower front to overlap the straight
edge at the adjacent tab/flange perforation line
and join this center front seam.
16. Bring the side straight edges to overlap
adjacent tab flange and glue side seams.
17. Bend the side extension of upper accent shapes
back, then position and attach to the main grille.
18. Position the grille onto the front of the main helmet
assembly, with the side punched extensions overlapping
the lower sides of helmet. Line up punch holes,
then attach in place using a regular size brad.
19. Prepare the feather shapes by bending and
"ruffling" the tine edges as desired.
Layer the feathers (tallest as center, suggested)
and line up the stem ends as much as possible.
Suggestion: to give the feathers more dimension,
consider using clear foam squares near the base
of the feather shape between the layers.
Glue the stems together, and trim to match the
center feather stem side and bottom edges, if necessary.
LEAVE the very ends of stems unattached, so
they can be bent back as attachment tabs.
20. Insert the stem end through the collar and
also through the main helmet slot.
On the inside of helmet, bend one of two stems
back in one direction, remaining stem(s)
back in opposite direction, and glue in place
to inside of helmet.
Here are two views of the completed helmet:
front and . . .
. . . side back.