Saturday, May 22, 2021

Bee 3D Fig Flat Back

 Half-dome stylized insect has face, stripes 
and stinger body overlays, eyes, swirly antennae, 
pair of vellum wing overlays (optional hand-stitched 
variation over wing included). 
Body side tabs mount to flat body base through slots. 
Tiny hole at “nose” end and opening at stinger end 
accept a small gauge wire to display in “flight”. 
Or use as decoration element on box or package, 
card or  dimensional post card. 
Bee measures approx. 2.5” tall x 1.5” wide x .75” deep. 

Coordinates as element for BLOOM 3D Letter Box Ensemble. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A body dome   B body base with slots
C body bottom to camouflage base openings
D head, eyes antennae unit with tab
E mid body accent, stripes (one not shown here),
tail end and stinger
F underwing with perforation bend line,
overwing (plain or opt. with stitching punch holes)
cut vellum
2. Prepare the body dome shape by bending back
on all perforations for body panels, segments and
inner wedge tabs, and forward for edge tabs.
3. Join head end seams by bending segments inward
to overlap head top side straight edge over adjacent
wedge tab to perforation and gluing in place.
4. Bend the snout head end panel downward so that
straight side edge overlaps the adjacent narrow tab
to perforation line, and glue seam.
5. Bend the top and side tail segments inward to 
overlap tab and align straight edge at perforation line,
and glue seam.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the other side of body. 
7. Prepare the body accent, stripes (body top stripe
not shown here; see step 12), and tail/stinger overlay by
bending back of all perforation lines.
8. Prepare the head overlay shape by bending
back on all perforation lines for segments and
narrow wedge tabs at upper sides.
9. Complete each of the two upper side seams
by overlapping the inward straight edge across
the wedge tab to perforation and gluing in place.
10. Apply glue to the underside of the head overlay
then position over head end area of body dome
align perforations and edges, and glue in place.
11. Position and attach the top body accent, aligning
punch hole, front edges with body perforation lines,
and contour perforations.
12. Position and attach the top body stripe on
the adjacent dome panels at panels edges.
13. Position and attach the tail overlay where it
fits the body contours and edges, then . . . 
. . . position and attach the mid stripe halfway
between the upper body stripe and tail overlay.
14. Prepare the underwing by partially bending along
the medium length perforation lines. This will give
the wings assembly some shape and "lift". 
(Follow these next steps ONLY if adding stitching
detail to the optional punch holes wing shape.)

15. A) Study the following stitching detail illustration
that indicates where the stitching thread will connect
punch holes. NOTE that the semi-transparent vellum
that is recommended will allow thread passes on
the underneath side to be slightly visible from face side.

B) Refer to the following stitching hole numbered diagram
as the following stitching steps are described.

C) Thread a 20" length of button thread (thicker) on
a sewing needle that will fit through the stitching holes.
D) Hold a short tail on top of the wing at the center
brad hole, then insert the needle DOWN through base hole #1,
at bottom of array, and pull thread through. 
E) Stitch UP through hole #3, then DOWN
through hole #2 to complete the first "stitch" line.
Pull up thread completely between each stitch
insertion, then finger press thread to encourage it
to stay straight, flat, and avoid loopy-ness that shows
through wing.
F) Stitch UP through hole #4, then DOWN through
hole #2.
G) Stitch up through hole #5, then . . . 
. . . DOWN thru hole #6; UP thru hole #5,
then DOWN thru hole #7; UP thru hole #5;
DOWN thru hole #8.

H) UP thru hole #9, then . . . 
. . . DOWN thru #8; UP thru #10; DOWN thru #8

I) UP thru #11.
J) Complete the center stitching by stitching DOWN
thru #8, UP thru #5, DOWN thru #2.
K) Complete the first wing stitching run by returning
needle and thread UP thru center punch hole.
L) Repeat steps D-K to complete stitching on second
wing. With thread tails at center, apply a dab of glue
to secure them neatly near center hole. Wait until
glue dries, then . . . 
. . . trim excess even with top edge of wing.
(NOTE: tails should be further secured and hidden
by wing-to-body brad insertion.)
16. Insert antennae tab through head slot, then . . . 
. . . bend tab back on underside of dome and
glue in place.
17. Position and attach eyes forward on 
side head panels.
18. Layer over wing atop under wing, center
with brad punch holes aligned, adjust for balance,
then secure in place with a dab of glue near punch hole.
19. Position wing assembly over body assembly
so that holes align, then insert a black nail head brad
through all layers, and bend prongs back on inside
of body dome.
20. Position body assembly over body base and
work tabs into the slots all around. (This may require
some patience and time.)
On the underside, bend tabs inward toward center . . .
. . . and glue in place.
21. To prepare and attach a "flying" wire, cut a medium
heavy gauge wire length (approx. 15") and use pliers
to form a small loop at top end.
22. Insert the non-loop end through FRONT of
bee, across body cavity, and . . . 
. . . through BACK opening
at tail tip.
23. Prepare the end, if desired, by coiling the straight
part of the wire, beginning approx. 1.5" beyond exit point,
using a tool such as a dowel or the handle of this
spatula tool, to create several spiral wraps.
24. Apply glue to the body form rim, then position
and attach the opening camouflage base shape.
Press the edges all around until securely attached.
NOTE: one strategy is to use clips such as this group
of folio clips to apply pressure all around
as the glue dries completely.
Here is the completed bee figure.

25. If the Bee is being used as part of the BLOOM 
ensembled, the long length of wire can be inserted
through TOP of B letter box and held in place
with interior strut, where it can be hot melt glued
in desired position. Or . . . 
. . . bent to allow end to be placed on front side panel
where it can be secured in place with a generous
bead of hot melt glue, with the optional rectangular
panel covering the wire end and glue, and further
securing in place.
This view shows the possible shaping of the bee's
wire to allow it to hover over the top of B letter box.

Daffodil 3D Flower with Stand

A pair of three-point petal shapes form the base, 
with center formed from ruffled edge sections 
that are curled, overlapped and glued together 
to form cup. Cubic stem “post” is strengthened with 
.125” wooden dowel cut to size, which fits into blossom end,
 with sepal “cup” at bottom to assist attachment. 
Tall narrow leaves provide accents. 
Tapered box, double scallop platform shapes 
assist daffodil to stand. Decorate with one, or a cluster. 
Flower measures approx. 8” tall x 1.5” wide (base); 
blossom approx. 3.5” wide and 1.5” deep. 
Coordinates well with Flower Pot 3D Miniature design 
and as a component for the “BLOOM” 3D Letter Box Ensemble. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A petal base trio shape (2)
B cup 'petals' shape
C interior 'petals' shape
D interior stamen strip
E post cubic tube
F leaves: 1 long (not shown) and 1 short
G post tip cover and anchor
H stand upright with accent side panel & top shapes
I scallop base    J scallop accent overlay
K post end anchor squares (4-5 to stack)
L scallop base bottom layer for camouflaging tabs
2. Position, align edges and center square opening
as precisely as possible, and glue together,
one by one into a stack.
Press the drying stack under a heavy, flat weight
such as this thick book volume, until the liquid glue
is completely dried (this may require hours).
This will help keep the stack flat, avoiding curling
and warping.
3. Add some up/downward curl to the center of
each of the six petals, using a thin rod-like tool
such as this crochet needle, then . . . 
. . . curl each of the six tips upward.
4.  Center the two petal trio shapes one on top of the other,
align the square center opening (this should help balance
the position of petals accurately), and glue centers together
where they overlap.
5. Prepare the cup 'petals' shape by separating each
petal from the adjacent ones, while bending at
the center perforations.
6. Use the rod tool to add curl to the sides and side
corners, first one side, and . . .
. . . then the other.
7. Hand-form the cup by gently pressuring upward,
to assist with the next gluing step.
Overlap adjacent petals, with smaller 'lobes' of wavy edge
overlapping on top. Apply a dab of adhesive where
two overlap . . . 
. . . so that from the outside (non-face side) only
two lobes from each petal show.
Repeat until all petals are connected to form cup.
8. Apply glue to bottom of the cup, then center cup
over the base petals assembly, and hold in place
until glue is secure.
9. Add upward curl to the ends of the four 'petals'
of the interior shape.
10. Apply adhesive to bottom near centering hole,
then position inside the petals cup and attach in place.
11. Prepare the stamen strip tuft by separating each
segment from possible connection to adjacents,
then accordion folding about halfway across 
the strip, then . . . 
. . . rolling/wrapping the remainder of the strip segments
around the accordion folded first part.
Apply glue as needed to help unit maintain its rolled shape.
12. Use the rod tool to further separate and shape
the tuft by adding "random" direction curl to each tip.
13. Apply quick-grab glue to the base end of the tuft
and then insert into center and attach over punch hole.
14. Prepare to create stem post by bending back
carefully along the four long perforation lines.
Identify the attachment "flange" edge by the angled ends.
15. Form the strip into a tube, overlapping the plain
straight long edge over the flange to perforation line,
and glue in place.
(When incorporating the blossom as part
of the BLOOM display, use longer stem post
shape, and shorter leaves that will attach
above the 'L' box top surface.)
NOTE that one best way to join this seam is
to press the square tube shape flat on working
surface (two sides on top, two on bottom),
and apply pressure along the full length rapidly
until edges are fully attached.
16. Re-configure the flat unit into a tube again,
then insert the .125" diam. wooden dowel end into
on end, and slide into place until lead end is even
with opposite cut end. NOTE this is a snug fit.
17. Mark dowel at end of paper tube, then remove
or at least slide back outward, and saw/cut at line.
Apply glue into opposite hollow end of tube,
and push dowel back fully into tube.
18. Apply quick-grab glue (such as hot melt, or Fabri-Tack)
along "top" end of stem unit where it will attach to
backside of blossom unit, then position that end
along lower center back, and hold in place until attached.
19. Prepare the stem top attachment bracket by
bending top center tab back, then adding 
backward curl at center . . .
. . . and upward curl at ends.
20. Apply glue to all of bracket backside, then
position at top of stem so that top tab bend back
to hide dowel end inside tube, and strip wraps
over stem post, with left and right ends attaching
to blossom backside. Hold in place and press
to form around stem snugly.
21. Prepare the stand by bending the upright 
back on all panel segments, flanges and tabs.
22. Position and attach each accent shape offset
within their respective panels.
23. Bend side panels back into position to position
plain side edge to overlap adjacent tab to perf line,
and join seams. NOTE it may be helpful to place
a "press-against" surface such as a stiff plexi ruler
or pencil behind the seam while joining.
Complete all four seams.
24. Position scallop accent shape on top of scallop base
shape, adjust so that base openings are centered
under accent openings, and attach in place.
25. Position anchor stack (from step 2) over center
of scallop base shapes, taking care that the post opening
edges of all are aligned as precisely as possible,
then attach in place. Press under a flat weight until
glue is dried.
26. Position tabs above base slots, then insert each
fully through to backside . . . 
. . . then bend outward and glue in place 
to base backside.
27. Apply a dab of quick-grab glue into the post
opening, then . . . 
. . . insert stem bottom end through top hole of
upright, and through interior, then move and adjust
end until . . . 
. . . it "slots into" post opening in stack
and scallop base units. Push through just until
all edges are flush.
28. Position and attach the bottom scallop shape
to hide the tabs and stem opening.
29. Position leaves on each side and attach bottom
ends to backside of stem post.
Here is the completed daffodil flower
in its stand.
30. If the 'L' box is being assembled for the BLOOM
display, use only the upright rectangular letter box
with square stem openings, then insert the long stem
variation through top of L box, across interior, then
into the bottom square opening. Apply glue to stem end
and hole, adjust so stem end is flush with bottom,
then hold in place until secure.
31. Add curl to daffodil leaves (short versions), then
position and attach at stem just above L box top.