Saturday, November 30, 2019

December 3D Calendar Flip Tiles

Tent-style base with overlaid grilles presents 
a seasonal display to count down the days 
until Christmas. Layered tiles have stencil number cut outs 
for ‘tens’ and ‘ones’ to show either how many days are left, 
or alternatively the December date. 
Holly and sprig side decoration adds a seasonal flare. 
Re-configure as a regular desk-style calendar 
by adding a ‘3’ to the ‘tens’ tiles stack. 
Measures approx. 7.25” wide x 6.25” tall 
x 3” deep when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY:  1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tent frame front & back
B main tent frame bottom 'solid' panel
C bottom panel reinforcements (3-4) for build up
D triangle tent interior reinforcement/ring support
E rings end support reinforcement panels (2 sets of 3)
F rings: 4 pair front/back; *4 sets (7-8) each interior
G slot test and strips (9) for test layering
H grilles for front (1) and back (1)
I grill/tent headers for front and back
J 'tens' number tiles (front, contr. middle, back)
K 'ones' number tiles layers
*see step 2 for explanation about determining quantity
If including the greenery embellishment,
also cut the shapes for that, as shown
here including the sprig two-part base.
2. Complete a test using the strips and test slot:
stack the strips on top of each other, and glue together,
stacking 7, then testing, and adding additional strips
one by one until the best thickness is achieved.
Part of the testing process includes using the test slot
shape shown here, taking care that the arrow remains
horizontal (pointing side to side), then . . .
. . . inserting the strips through the opening
(which represents the ring reinforcements openings)
to see how many layers are required for a snug
but moveable stack. NOTE that the strip stack
has the cut edges at top and bottom, with top
nearest the side-to-side arrow.
When the right stack quantity is determined,
translate that into the number of layers required
for each ring assembly. EXAMPLE: if 9 layers works,
that would mean 1 for front, 7 for interior, 1 for back
to equal the 9 layers. Remember, there are 4 ring units.
(See Step 4 for the rings layering assembly.)
3. Layer each of the 'tens' and 'ones' tiles as shown,
positioning and attaching the contrast 'show-thru'
layer under/behind the front tile stencil (slightly
offset smaller outer edges) . . .
. . .with hole punches aligned,
and then . . .
. . . positioning and attaching the back tile,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible.
NOTE that it is advisable to use a flat weight
such as this repurposed weight machine bar
(fabric covered) placed on top of the glued-up stack
to help keep it flat, avoid warping or curling,
during the drying process. Leave under weight
for several hours until the shape is completely dried.
4. Layer the (4) ring units by stacking the interior
ring shapes (with blunt-cut ends) on top of each other,
one by one, taking care to align all cut edges as
precisely as possible. Press under flat weights
until completely dried.
5. For the front and back ring layers, bend forward
the tiny tabs at ends, then . . .
. . . layer and attach on the front and back of
the stack, taking care to align edges as previously.
Press under flat weight until dried as before.
6. Layer and attach the bottom panel reinforcement
shapes, taking care to align outer edges.
Press under a flat weight until fully dried.
7. Layer the ring reinforcement shapes into two
stacks of three shapes each, taking care to align
outer edges - and especially the openings.
NOTE OF EXPLANATION: these holes are intended,
along with the tent triangle reinforcement shape,
to anchor the ends of the rings. The depth of the opening
helps to hold the rings once glued in place in position,
to withstand the tile-flipping actions. Hole alignment
is critical to be able to insert ring ends in.
8. Prepare the main tent frame by bending back on
all the perforation lines for the center top bend,
as well as the side flanges.
9. Prepare the main tent bottom panel by bending
back the long (attachment) tabs and the short end
edge flanges. (NOTE this image shows the panel
from the backside.)
10. Position and attach the front bottom main tent
shape to the bottom panel by overlapping the straight
edge to the tab's perforation line, adjusting ends
for alignment. Press the seam under a weight until dry.
11. Bend the side edge flanges back and glue
in place on both edges of tent assembly, including
the bottom panel. Press under flat weight if possible.
12. Position and attach the bottom panel stack
reinforcement centered on the bottom panel outer
surface as shown, within the perforation lines.
Press under a flat weight until dry.
13. Position each grille, front and back, over
the respective portion of the main tent assembly,
aligning the ring openings, and squaring up
with the frame, and glue in place at header area
or edges of grille. Press under a flat weight
if possible.
14. Position and attach each front or back header strip
over the top portion of the grille/main tent frame,
aligning the circle openings. Press flat if possible
during the drying process.
15. Form the main tent frame assembly into
a triangular tube to align and complete the bottom
back seam as for the front bottom seam done previously.
16. Prepare the triangular tent reinforcement shape
by bending back on all perforation lines for panels
and end tabs.
17. Bend the panels into position to align 
with the triangular end piece and complete the seams.
18. Position the ring opening reinforcement shapes
behind/under the front and back panels of
the reinforcement shape, taking care that all ring
openings line up precisely, and glue in place.
19. Apply glue to the reinforcement panels, then
insert under the main tent assembly top angle,
slide upward to tightly fit, then . . .
. . . apply pressure all along to assist attachment
on all touching edges. NOTE: it may be helpful
to use quick-grab adhesive such as Fabri-Tack.
20. Arrange the tiles into the 'tens' stack (1 & 2)
and the 'ones' stack (0-9) in advance of 
loading onto rings.
21. Position the 'tens' tiles onto the first ring, then . . .
. . . then flex slightly to slide the ring into position
over the tent ridge to the farthest-left position . . .

. . .then adjust to insert ends through the reinforcement
openings on one side, then the other.
On the underside, use a tool such as this spatula
to reach inside to bend the end tabs back to attach
to the reinforcement surfaces. Do this for each ring end.
22. Repeat the ring positioning and attachment
for the second ring on the 'tens' stack. 
23. Repeat for the rings positioning and attachment
for the 'ones' stack.
24. If completing the greenery accent,
assembly it as follows: 
A) Position and attach the bottom needles sprig
over the two-sprig base.
B) Position and attach the left side sprig
with the circle end over the base sprigs.
C) Layer the vein shapes over the centers
of the holly leaves and attach.
D) Position and attach the holly leaves
with circle ends overlapping the base
assembly, arranging on angles as shown.
E) Add one berry over the circle end position,
then position and attach the other two below
(see the next screen for suggested positions).
25. Position and attach the sprig over the left side
of the tent where it will not interfere with
the tiles flipping function.

To change the number or date, carefully lift and
flip from back "resting" position over the tent top
to the front, as shown here changing from December
24th to 25th. When there is no 'tens' number being
displayed, both of these tiles rest backside-up on tent back.
Here is the completed desk count down display.

Sunday, November 24, 2019

Christmas Tree Folded Edge 5x7 Easel Card

Attached, folded tree decorates the left edge of 
quickly-assembled flat card with optional back easel 
that can fit into a 5x7 envelope. 
Use two-tone (front and back) card stock 
for the contrast effect between swoop boughs and 
edge-decorated punch circles. 
Shapes also included for front offset accent 
base panel, with accent two-layer panels and 
word cuts “Merry” and “Christmas”, back sentiment panel. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main card base: cut from two-tone (front/back) card stock
B front accent offset panel  C tree star
D front plaque accent panel
E front offset plaque accent base
F 'Merry' and 'Christmas' word cuts
G back panel with easel cut out   H back sentiment panel
2. Prepare the main card base by bending on tree
perforations, beginning with "valley" fold at longest
line (indicated by pointing finger), then
alternating as "mountain", then "valley" and
so forth 
moving upward.
3. Fold the tree segments on top of each other
and crease well.
4. Use sticky dots or equivalent to attach the right side
tree layers together - attaching under the overlapping
segment, centering the dot.
NOTE: leave the bottom-most section free
for now (the one overlapping the card face)
Repeat the sticky dot application for the left
side overlapping segments.
5. Position and attach the offset accent face
to the front of the card.
6. Position and center the smaller front accent plaque
shape onto the plaque base, and attach together.
7. Position the plaque onto the card front so that
it is centered to the top edge width, and near
the upward portion of the card front, and attach.
8. Apply sticky dots to the underside of the tree
near vertical center line (allows dimension to remain)
then press the tree into position over the card front.
9. Position and attach the word cuts.
10. Position and attach the star
(NOTE if the star is too high, the card may NOT
fit into a 5x7 envelope, so if you plan to enclose
in a card for gifting or sending, check the positioning
before final attachment).
11. If using the plain back, position it on the backside
of the card to reinforce and strengthen the card.
Also position and attach the sentiment plaque.
12. If using the optional easel back, prepare it by
bending easel 'triangle' back toward the right,
then replacing it into flat position.
Also bend the latch down along the perforation,
then replace to flat position.
13. Here is the easel shape in open position,
(seen from the backside)
with the triangle easel at perpendicular vertical,
and the latch bent down with the notch flexed to
hold the easel cut out edge fixed so it will stand.
NOTE: the backside face area visible from this side
is the ONLY portion that will have adhesive applied.
14. Apply adhesive as described above, then
position with offset margin at rounded edges top
and side. At the bottom edge . . . 
. . . the protrusion of the easel triangle should
be even with the card base bottom edge.
Attach in place, making sure that the easel 
and latch DO NOT attach to card back.
15. Position and attach the narrower sentiment
plaque in the area shown.
16. Review step 13 to open easel and secure
This is how the card looks when standing
with back easel.