Shaped cold-weather card with the special touch
of hand-stitching features mug front layer and
reinforcing second layer that are pre-punched to complete
a snowman (stitching chart included in cut file).
Third layer of mug includes a cutout that surrounds
cross-stitching as buffer.
Whipped cream swirled dollop is layered,
then bottom flange is inserted through mug back layers slot.
Tie optional two-layer sentiment tag through
mug handle front layers.
Optional “hugs & hot cocoa” print and cut tag panel design
can substitute for tag as desired.
Tag measures approx. 4.125” wide x 5.6” tall
when assembled and closed.
A companion snowflake cutout flap envelope
that is sized to fit this shaped card is available also.
(Tag will need to be adjusted toward center)
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A mug front layer with stitching holes
B mug second layer with stitching holes, cream slot
C mug back layer with stitching "buffer" window
D whipped cream contour front layer
E whipped cream base layer
F tag base with front print & cut rectangle
G tiny snowflake embellishments with twine ties
H card base with left side perforation for fold
I optional interior sentiment panel
Also select and assemble the stitching needles
(recommended tapestry blunt needles with large eye
size no. 24/26) and floss colors. The snowman will need:
white for snow; orange for nose; scarf & hat color;
black for eyes, buttons, arms.
2. Complete preparation and glue up for a few shapes
and press each flat under a heavy weight until dry:
A) layer the whipped cream contour front shape
onto the base shape, matching edges;B) center and attach the "hugs & hot cocoa" print and cut
panel (or the plain label if preferred) onto
the tab base shape.
C) fold the card base in half along the perforation . . .
. . . then open to position and attach
the interior sentiment label as shown.3. Prepare the two stitching hole shapes by cleaning out
any partially attached "chad" circle cutouts from ALL holes,
using the stitching needle to push these through to
as possible. One way to accomplish this is to push
the stitching needle through several holes and
approx. 30-36" long (shorter for smaller areas),
and separating TWO of the plies.
A) Line up the ends of both plies and straighten
the plies so that they are without twists.
B) Fold the two plies to line up the four ends, then
crease the loop end to create a half-way loop.
Thread the loop through the needle's eye, then . . .
. . . pull the loop through, leaving approx. 5-6" cut ends tail.
The loop becomes the long "end", with 4 plies
together which will form cross stitches.
6. Review the following diagram to fully understand
how the cross stitches are formed uniformly
with RIGHT SLANT stitches made across the row first,
then the return half of the run completing
the LEFT SLANT stitches.
7. Refer to the Stitching Chart, either on screen,
or printed, to locate the bottom-most beard cross stitch.
This is where the first stitch will be made,
afterward working upward through the design.
8. Visualize the 'X' of the first stitch, then insert the needle
UP from backside through the top left hole of the bottom FOUR
that will create the 'X". Pull needle and thread through
leaving approx. 3-4" of loop "tail" still on backside.
9. Insert the needle into the bottom right hole . . .
. . . then pass the needle through the loop . . .
. . . and cinch the thread up firmly on the back.
This is the "tie on" step.
10. Continue the X stitch pattern in the next pair of holes . . .. . . then continue across to complete the RIGHT SLANT stitches
across the first (bottom) row of chart . . .
. . . then return back across to complete
the LEFT SLANT stitches.
11. To continue, move up to next row after each row . . .. . . and add the LEFT slant stitches across and
then move back across to complete each X stitch
with RIGHT slant stitches.
rows. When floss length on needle gets close to being
too short to continue, pause in mid stitch when needle
is pulled through to backside, then slip the needle under
the adjacent 4-5 stitches. Pull the needle fully through, then . . .
. . . remove needle and trim the excess floss close
to the stitching it crossed under.
This is "tying off".
13. As stitching progressed up the chart, skip the stitch
spaces for the non-white Xs (neck scarf) as shown, working
LEFT slant stitches across row with thread "floating"
across skipped spaces on mug backside, then
returning back in same manner to complete RIGHT slants.
14. NOTE where the "half cross stitches" are on
the printed chart that will help shape the snowman body,
head, and scarf at some edges. One of these is indicated
in this photo, and its punch hole configuration includes
an extra tiny needle hole in the center of the usual four
holes that create the X.
15. Complete the white stitches for snowman body and
Complete these special stitches by making a "half-slant"
stitch as shown on the diagram.
head, tying off and beginning new floss length as needed,
until white stitches on chart are all in place.
16. Tie on successive colors to complete scarf, hat,
arms, body buttons and coal eyes, and orange nose.
For better definition, consider tying on a two-floss length
to outline "straight" stitches around eyes and nose, etc.
. . . so that outer card stock edges match, including
curved slot edges, and that the window edges
fall just beyond the completed stitching all around.
by slipping the bottom edge of attached tab
touch and attach to backside of buffer shape.
Adjust cream shape so tab edges are parallel to
mug side edges, and so that the cream shows
appropriately at bottom above mug "rim".
NOTE that the card base offset will need to mimic
the shaped edges of cream, so compare the assembly
to the card base front corresponding edges and make
the folded card base, with .125" offset margin