Sunday, May 31, 2020

Fishing Hat Easel Card

 A special dimensional card to send greetings of affection, 
happy birthday, Happy Father’s Day or retirement. 
Round card base has underneath panel that bends 
to display the attached 3D bucket hat tipped at an angle. 
Hat is built from 6 wedges, with top hexagon 
that fits inside with edge flange. 
Details include “band” with eyelet hole, brim edge trim, 
fish hook and lure to tuck or attach. 
Attach the double-layer sentiment panel with arch banners, 
“gone fishin’ and fish to provide the “stop” for 
the easel mechanism. 
Card measures approx. 5” x 5” x 1.75” deep 
when closed. Tuck the hat card inside a custom-fit 
container companion design (Fishing Reel 3D Gift Box). 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A card base (two joined circles)
B front panel whole circle
C back panel whole circle
E interior upper accent
F interior lower accenty
G banner two layers with "gone fishin'" word cut
and fish
H stop panel (2)
I card front accent (fish cutouts disc)
J hat attachment flange
K hat wedges (6)   L hat top hexagon
M hat button (circles to layer for build up 7-8)
N hat band shapes (6)  O hat rim shapes (6)
P fly base, head and wings
Q lure base and body   R hooks (1 left, 1 right)
2. Prepare the card base by bending forward  at
the center short perforation line and at the top panel
halfway perforation line.
3. Position the front whole circle panel over the front
portion of the base, align the edges that should line up
and attach only to the lower half.
This is the "mechanism" that allows the card to fold
into the 'easel' configuration.
4. Position and attach the backside whole circle
reinforcement to the underside of the card base.
5. Open the card base then position and attach
the upper half circle offset accent (align top edge
at perforation line) and the lower whole circle offset
6. Position and attach the layers of the 'stop' panel
to provide enough 'lip' to catch the front easel panel edge.
NOTE that when layering and gluing up shapes using
liquid adhesive, it will be helpful to press the assembly
under a heavy flat weight such as this fabric covered
repurposed weight machine bar, until the stack is
fully dried, to prevent warping or curling.
7. Position and attach the offset banner onto
the front of the banner base.
8. Position the banner assembly along the top of
the 'stop' panel where the edges of each should line up,
and attach. Press under a flat weight if possible.
9. Position and attach the 'gone fishin' word phrase
on the banner, and the fish shape below.
10. Position the 'stop' panel assembly onto the bottom edge
of the interior accent panel, and attach in place.
Audition how the easel mechanism will work.
11. Prepare each of the 6 hat wedges by bending
forward at the lower brim perforation line, and
back at the upper crown perforation line, and also
bend the side edge tabs back. 
12. Position and attach the hat band strips onto
each prepared wedge, aligning holes and squaring
up the perforation lines and edges. Insert and attach
the eyelet accents at this time, if desired.
14. Position the first two wedges to line up the middle
segments of each, overlapping the straight side edge
(on the left edge of the RIGHT shape) over the corresponding 
tab to perforation line (on the right edge of the LEFT shape),
and glue in place.
15. Bend and adjust the upper segments to join the seam
in a similar manner, and then the brim seam (lower segment)
in the same manner to complete the three-part seam.
16. Continue to add the next wedge to line up
middle, upper and lower segments in the same manner
until all six are joined. Finally, for the assembly into a ring
to line up and join the final edges in a seam.
17. Prepare the hat top panel by bending the outer
edge flanges forward.
18. Position and attach each of the button discs in
a stack, taking care to line up the edges as precisely
as possible. Press under a weight until dry.
19. Position and attach the button over the center punch
hole of the hat's top panel.
20. Prepare the hat attachment flange by bending
the bottom edge tabs forward and the upper flanges
21. Form the shape into a ring to overlap the straight
side edge over the opposite tab to perforation line,
and join seam.
22. Bend each upper edge flange back and
glue to the ring backside.
23. Insert lower tabs into the slots of the card's
front accent panel, then . . .
. . . on the backside bend the tabs toward the outer edge
and glue to the underside of the accent panel.
24. Position the hat wedges assembly over the attachment
flange so that the each wedge is centered over
a flat face of the attachment ring. Apply glue where
the hat and ring surfaces will touch, then slide hat ring
down until the brim rests on the accent circle's surface.
25. Position the hat top panel over the opening,
adjust so that the shapes correspond, then insert
and push into place slightly so that the flange top
edges align with the wedge top edges exactly,
and pinch together all around to attach in place.

26. Position the front accent ring/hat assembly over
the card front panel, adjust so 'reveal' is even all
around, and attach in place.
27. Complete the "embellishments" for the hat,
including assembling the fly shown here (wings, head onto
body base), lure overlay onto hook base.
28. Position and attach to the hat wedges as desired.
Here is the finished sample project, closed.
Open and position the center front edge at the top
edge of the 'stop' to open into easel stand.
Consider assembling the custom fit-to-size reel box
project as the gift box for the fishing hat easel card.
Here are the card and box projects shown together.

Fishing Reel 3D Box

Larger than life replica vintage fishing reel fits together 
as multi-segment edge lid over base, with whole discs 
on front and back. On box front, reel layers include 
center stubby stem that holds built-up handle and 
small cylinder knob (cut 5/16” dowel lengths or 
use slot-together X struts to fit inside tube for strength). 
A short optional bracket style “stand” is included 
(omit the stand to create a simple round-ish box). 
On back, finger holes assist opening of snug fit box. 
Add touch of realism if desired by wrapping 
coordinated twine around hull. 
Custom sized to fit the Fishing Hat 3D Easel Card inside. 
Box chamber measures approx. 5” tall x 5.625” wide 
x 1.875” deep when closed (with legs, a little taller). 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A & B box front and back disc
C front accent disc   D front accent rim ring
E front dimensional ring: base whole circle,
show-thru accent and front overlay with cut outs
F dimensional ring rim
G box lid with lower & upper boxing strips
H box base with lower & upper boxing strips
I handle top layer  J handle middle layers build up (6-7)
K handle bottom layer 
L handle knob (upper) M handle post (lower)
N stand upper and build up layers (2-3)
O stand accent shape overlay
P stand next to bottom layer  (with tab offset opening)
Q stand bottom layer (whole)
S stand attachment panel
T alternate slot-together post reinforcements
(specific pairs for stand posts, handle post & knob)
U-W handle rivet/screw accent shapes:
U base show-thru contrast to screw head semi circles
V rivet rim (match to handle paper)
W screw head semi circles
2. Prepare the handle build up layers so they can
be allowed to dry while other assembly takes place.
Position and attach the interior handle layers in a stack,
taking care to align all outer cut edges as precisely
as possible.
Press the stack under a heavy, flat object such as
a book, or this fabric-covered repurposed flat weight,
to avoid warping or curling when liquid adhesive is used.
(This may take one hours.)
3. Identify the base boxing strips which include tiny
punch holes in the end tabs.
(NOTE that finger/thumb grab holes or push through tabs
have been added to the BASE panel and BACK DISC
in the final cut file.)
4. Prepare the boxing strips by bending back the segments
of each on perforation lines, also bend back along
perf lines of all side and end tabs.
5. Position the BASE panel bottom straight edge
along the center bottom, overlapping the flange to
the perforation line, adjust then glue in place.
6. Work up one side, bending to align the next segment
straight edge with the corresponding tab perforation
line, and gluing in place. Then . . .
. . . continue to complete
all segment edges and tabs on one side.
NOTE that the assembly can be placed face side down
on a flat surface to allow fingertip pressure to be
applied along all the tabs for firm attachment.
7. Repeat for the segments on the other half.
8. Position the upper boxing strip so that the straight
end overlaps the end tab/flange of the lower strip,
adjust and glue the seam.
9. Repeat for the opposite side seam.
10. Apply adhesive to all the tabs along the upper
boxing strip, then work quickly to align the center top
edge, then adjust and attach tabs along each side
until all are attached.
11. Repeat steps 5-10 for the box LID.
12. Position and attach the front whole disc over
the LID box assembly, centering for offset overlap
all around except at lower long segment.
13. Repeat for the back whole disc, taking care
to line up the thumb/finger holes with push through tabs.
14. Prepare the dimensional disc rim strip by adding
a little curl to it using a rod or dowel tool.
15. Bend the tiny tabs back so that they will be inward.
16. Form the strip into a ring, face side outward,
to overlap the straight end to the perf guide marks,
and glue the seam.
17. With tabs downward, apply glue to the backside
of tabs all around, then . . .
. . . slip the base disc into the ring and press into place
to fit snugly at the bend line between strip and tabs.
Place the assembly on flat surface to press fingertips
or tool - as shown in following photo - to assist the tabs
to attach (shown after the contrast accent shape
is positioned and attached in place).
18. If needed, the accent disc can be identified
as NOT being the base disc by the tiny notch cut out.
19. Position and attach the top accent cutouts disc
inside the rim ring and attach in the same manner.
20. Position and attach the front disc and rim.
21. Position the dimensional disc assembly over
the front of the accent disc, align the center hexagon
openings as precisely as possible, then attach in place.
22. Prepare the post strips by bending back along
the vertical panel perforations and end tab,
 and also bend forward the top and bottom tabs.
Prepare the knob strip in similar manner,
bending the top wedge tabs back and top hex cap back. 
23. Form the strips into a tube to overlap the side
straight edge over the opposite tab to perforation line
(knob strip shown here).
NOTE that this may be easier if working with a 5/16"
wood dowel as a 'form' to wrap post or knob strip around.
24. For knob, move the post tube to one end of dowel,
then bend the wedge tabs inward, and . . . 
. . . cap down into place and glue all securely.
For other post strips, the end tabs remain simply bent.
25. If using wood dowel 'nubs' as knob or post insert
for reinforcement or strength, bend bottom tabs (knob)
back out of the way and mark with fine pencil or other
a line as cut off guide. Then cut the dowel segment
and sand rough ends as needed.
26. For the posts, move the inserted dowel cut end
to align at the tab perforations at one end, then 
bend opposite end tabs out of the way to mark.
Then cut the dowel segments to marked size.
27. From the face side of top hand layer, insert 
the knob tabs through the hex opening, then . . .
. . . bend back and glue in place on underside.
28. Repeat for the bottom handle layer with
the designated and prepared post strip.
29. Insert the appropriate dowel nub into knob
tube fully and glue in place.
30. If preferred, cut and use the card stock slot-together
X reinforcements as shown, intersecting the two strips
at slots and pushing fully together so that top and
bottom edges align.
Insert X strut into the open end of knob or post
so that the 'X' arms fit into opposite pairs of bend angles.
Slide fully inside.
31. Position and attach the handle top layer onto
the top of the built-up assembly; clamp in place if
necessary to ensure complete attachment.
32. Repeat for the bottom face shape and post,
attaching to the bottom of the build up.
33. Insert and glue the dowel post nub or X struts.
34. Insert the post end tabs through the center hex opening 
of the front disc assembly, then . . .
. . . on the underside, bend back the tabs and
glue in place.
To aid the handle in "drying" in the appropriate
positioning, with parallel GAP between handle
underside and disc, consider propping it up with
something of the appropriate thickness.
35. Position and attach the front disc/handle assembly
onto the LID whole disc panel, and glue in place.
36. Assemble the handle pivot faux screw head
assembly by layering the ring on top of the base
with outer edges aligned, then position and attach
the screw head semi circles inside the ring.
37. Position and attach at center end of handle
as shown.
NOTE: the following few steps are for assembly
of the "optional" stand, which can be omitted if preferred.

38. Position and attach the top 2-3 oval panels for thickness
build up, taking care to align the hexagon opening cut edges
and outer edges as precisely as possible. 
39. Position and attach the bottom interior panel
(with offset larger hex openings) to bottom of
build up panel.
40. Position and attach the accent shape on top
of the stack, aligning hex opening edges carefully.
Press under a weight until dry.
41. Insert post end tabs through hex opening, then . . .
. . . bend tabs back within recess and glue in place.
Repeat for the other post.
42. Position and attach the whole bottom panel
to enclose the post ends inside.
43. Insert and glue dowel nubs or X struts inside posts.
44. Position post top tabs in "skinniest" formation, then . . .
. . . insert through the face side openings of
attachment panel, and . . . 
. . . bend tabs outward and glue in place.
45. Position and attach the attachment panel
with stand along the bottom face of LID.
It is recommended to use a sturdy, quick-grab
adhesive such as Fabri-tack.
46. To close the box, insert the BASE into bottom
of LID (NOTE that this is a snug fit.).
Here is the completed reel box.
For extra authenticity, consider wrapping 14-16 yards
of twine around the boxing strips of the closed box,
hiding and securing ends as neatly as possible on
bottom panel, and weaving around stand posts
as needed as wrapping fills in.
Open box to insert the companion design
Fishing Hat Easel Card inside.