Monday, January 22, 2018

Valentine Ornament Tree

Transform the ornament tree from a separate design file
into a Valentine tree display for February holiday decorating 
with this Cupid finial. 
Measures approx. 3.5" tall x 4.875" wide. 

Decorate with mix-and-match heart or 
Valentine-themed ornaments from separate cut files 
available for purchase and download.

This assembly guide will describe finial assembly
and attachment to main tree display,
and Dove, Ric Rac and Zigzag 
ornaments assembly.

ASSEMBLY: A. Complete the tree display stand
following the assembly steps as shown
in a previous ornament tree tutorial by following
this LINK. Substitute the Cupid Fan finial
assembly and attach shown in the following steps:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A Cupid base    B Cupid body
C wings pair   D left arm
E arrow (2-3 for build up strength)
F fan finial base   G fan accent overlay
H substitute tree arm with guide punch hole
I attachment bracket   J front accent bracket
Not shown: pole top hexagon
2. Position and attach body over base,
matching up edges that should align.
3. Position back wing under body assembly
with shoulder pivot punch hole, rotated upward
so that top wing edge is just below head edge
as shown, and attach where body overlaps.
4. Position front wing in similar manner,
rotated downward so that bottom edge is
just above body edge, and attach where
wing overlaps wing and body.
5. Position left arm with pivot hole aligned,
while at the same time position arrow over
lower hand and under top hand, then glue
to attach all in place.
6. Insert mini brad through shoulder punch hole.
7. Layer fan base and accent shapes.
8. Position Cupid assembly over fan assembly,
aligning bottom straight edges 
and guide punch holes, and glue in place.
9. Position finial assembly behind the special,
substitute upper tree arm layer with guide holes
10. Layer upper tree arm unit as described in the
Egg Display tree (linked above), then
attach finial arm behind the tree arm build up shape.
11. Position and attach replacement finial
on top of pole as instructed in tree assembly guide.
12. Cut the ornament shapes shown.
Use a large-eye needle to thread narrow ribbon
or twine through the slash cut on the body base
shape, and behind as shown.
13. Position and attach the body shape overlay.
14. Position and attach upper wing onto
wing base. Attach eye circle.
15. Identify the dash guide line on the body
that shows where wing overlay will be 
positioned, then . . . 
. . . position wing unit, rotated so that end tip
is below tail edge as shown, and attach in place.
16. Tie ribbon into knot and bow, trim ends.
HEART OVERLAYS: Ric Rac & Zigzag
17. Cut the shapes, including the overlay framework
for each.
18. Place overlay over half heart shape
and adjust positioning for desired striping
effect. Watch for stripe intersection with
half heart edges.
When desired position is achieved,
hold in position while applying glue onto
back surface of overlay strips only.
19. Trim stripe edges even with 
half heart shape, then . . . 
. . . complete the heart ornament assembly.

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Decorated Wardrobe 3D Box Decoration

Miniature replica vintage wardrobe box to decorate 
with favorite paper prints, panels, metal handles or knobs, 
hinges, tassel, ribbon and more. 
Suited to experienced paper crafters, this large project 
measures approx. 11.5" tall x 7.5" wide (base) x 3" deep. 
Working door panel measured to fit all monthly "Cut Apart" 
panel G45 paper prints - January featured on this model. 
Lower drawer also functions. 
Dimensional walls make box framework durable. 

Large word art that is part of Graphic 45's
January "Cut Apart" 
(#4501029; Time to Flourish Collection) is a featured
 adornment of the decorated model project.
Shaped tracing template and offset margin cut shape
are available in a separate free cut file through 
December word art offset design also available.

Wardrobe is designed to accommodate specific metal findings 
and embellishments, including drawer handle hardware,
key hole plate, miniature hinges, knob, drawer pull.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes
for the main structure:
A hull back  
B & C left & right side walls with door notch strips
D & E top & bottom walls
F compartment "shelf" build up (7-8; see step 9)
G shelf with tabs and flange
H leg sets build up (8-9 for each of 2)
I & J door "box" front and back panels
K door support struts (2)
L drawer tray box   M side wall overlays (l & r)
N pediment shape (2-3 for build up)
O drawer opening frame (2-3 for build up)
P upper compartment "baffle" support box
Q baffle support struts (2)
R drawer "glide" box (2)
JJ side wall lower edge "blocks" (8-9 each of 2)
KK back wardrobe "cover"

Identify and cut the accent shapes:
 January panel
T door front overlay with side strips (2)
U side panel left & right overlay accents
V top wall panel overlay      W pediment accent
X drawer opening panel overlay
Y drawer front (2-3 for build up)  Z accent overlay
AA leg overlay (2)   BB drawer liner
CC (opt.) door flap with accent overlay
DD (opt.) key plate layers (3 of each)
EE hinge and overlay accent (metal recommended)
Following shapes are available in the "Free" 
January file download as noted above.
FF pediment plaque base, accent, print cutting
GG January tracing template
HH January cutout with offset base (4-5 for buildup)
II circle embellishments for print cutouts
2. Prepare the side walls by bending back on
all perforation lines and tabs, except bend short
inner edge tabs forward.
3. Prepare the (door) indent strips by bending back 
on all perforation lines and tabs or flanges,except 
the narrow end sections, which are bent forward.
4. Position the indent strips under the side panel
with long flange perforation lined up at long edge
of the "window" . . . 
. . . adjust so that strip and edge ends are precisely
lined up, then glue the flange in place to backside
 of the side panel (backside is up in this image).
5. If you are including the magnetic closure variation,
position a metal "attractor" such as this small
picture hanger at the center of the right side panel
indent strip, on the inside using secure glue.
6. Fold the panel into its final form to position
the second long edge of the indent strip at
the straight edge of "window" as for first side seam,
adjust and attach.
7. Bend the end sections into position, align
perforations and indent edges, and attach tabs
in place to complete the indent "boxing".
9. Check for proper thickness of the compartment
"shelf" build up by dry stacking the shapes
(F & G from layout image) and test fitting the end
tab-like extension into the shelf slot on one of
the side wall panels.Card stock used for the model
required 8 build up shapes F plus 1 top layer G
to snugly fill the slot.
10. Bend back the front and back edge tabs
of the main shelf shape.
11. Stack and glue together all of the build up
shapes, taking care that all edges line up
as each is glued in place. Use a flat weight
placed on top of the stack as it dries to
prevent warping and curling, and leave in place
until completely dry.
12. Position the stack on the underside of
main shelf shape, between the front and back
tab or flange perforation lines, and with side
edges lined up exactly, and glue in place,
using flat weight as before.
13. Position the shelf assembly over the face
side of the back panel, and insert the short tabs
into the matching slots at the lower portion of
panel. Then . . . 
. . . bend the tabs upward and glue in place
on the back wall backside.
14. Position the first (left shown) side wall assembly
at corresponding side edge of back wall,
insert short tabs into corresponding slots,
make sure tabs are fully inserted, then
bend toward panel center and glue in place
on panel backside.
15. Insert side flange of shelf into wall slot . . . 
. . . apply glue to shelf build up edge that will
touch side wall, then slide shelf fully into position
and apply pressure, hold until connection is secure.
NOTE: Here and throughout assembly, 
take care to "square up" the wardrobe box
as components are added and glued in place.
16. Repeat steps 14 & 15 for the left wall.
17. Prepare the top and bottom walls by bending
back on all perforations and tabs, except the short
inner tabs and bent forward.
Also, position and attach the TOP wall accent
on the wall face next to the long flange tab.
18. Fit the bottom wall inner edge tabs into
the corresponding slots in the back wall . . . 
. . . while at the same time fitting the side tabs
into the corresponding slots on the ends of
the side walls.
Bend the wall tabs outward and glue in place
to the side wall back inside surface.
Bend the back wall tabs upward and glue in place
to the back wall underside surface.
19. Repeat step 18 for the top wall.
20. If not already accomplished, position the side wall
long tabs (flanges) so that they "wrap" around
the edge of the back wall.
21. Prepare to "wrap" the top and bottom walls
flange tabs around back wall by first applying
a dab of glue to side wall top surface under
the corner where the miter edge will fit, as shown.
22. Complete the top and bottom wall wrap step . . .
. . . so that all four wall flange tabs are in place
as seen from the back of assembly.
Apply glue to the underside of all flanges,
then re-position and apply pressure while pushing
the walls inward so that the back wall edges
fit snugly into the perforation angle all across,
and along each edge.
NOTE: It may be easier to work one or two sides
at a time. Take care at corners that the flanges
miter cuts fit together well.
23. Prepare the compartment "baffle" reinforcement
platform box by bending back on all perforation lines
and tabs.
24. Form the open-backed box by bending into
rectangular block form, with tabs tucked under
corresponding end wall straight edges,
and glue tabs in place. Leave rounded partial
back "wall" flange free until a later step.
25. Prepare the baffle struts by bending tabs
back (or forward a seems best for fit).
Reverse one of the struts so that the center slots
can fit together to form 'X'.
26. Apply glue to the underside of the tabs . . . 
. . . then fit the struts assembly inside the box
from back so that the tabs will rest against
the undersides of upper or lower walls,
and glue in place.
27. Bend the partial back wall into position
with tabs tucked in, and glue side tabs in place.
28. Fit the baffle into the hull compartment
and move fully to the top, glue top and side walls
and back flange to the surfaces they touch.
29. Position and attach the accents
onto their corresponding side wall overlays.
30. Position and attach the overlay wall units
on the sides of the hull assembly, with the top,
back and front edges of both lined up. 
NOTE: the bottom edges of overlays will
extend beyond the bottom hull edge.
31. Prepare the 2 drawer glide "trays" by bending
back on all perf lines, except side flanges are
bent forward.
(NOTE the front end of glide shape has been
modified in the final file.)
 32. Position the two glides into the bottom
of the drawer cavity, equal distance in from
side walls, and glue the side flanges to the
inner surface of bottom wall, also glue
the front end tab in place overlapping the front
of bottom wall as shown in image in step 35.
33. Prepare the "blocks" for the lower side wall
reinforcement by layering 8 or 9 of the strips
into a stack, then repeating for second stack,
taking care that edges line up as precisely
as possible.
34. Position and attach the wide edge of a block 
on the backside of the side wall overlay unit,
with top edge glued to bottom wall.
Make sure that ends line up with overlay
side edges.
35. Layer and attach the leg shapes to create a
build up of 1/8" (8-9 layers or more by test).
Create front and back leg stack.
36. Position and attach the accent shape onto
the front side of each stack.
37. Prepare to attach the front leg in place
by applying a quick-set glue such as the
Fabri-Tac shown here
along the top stack edge, and also to thick edges
of the side wall "blocks" stacks, then position
the leg in place under the front edge of hull,
and apply pressure to glue-up contacts until
secure. Repeat for back leg unit.
38. Position and attach the drawer opening panel
over the lower portion of hull so that edges line up
with bottom and side wall outer edges,
and inner "shelf".
39. Position and attach the pediment panel
over the front top of the hull assembly so that
the lower edges line up with top front wall section
above the door cut out.
40. Prepare door front and back panels by
bending back on all perforation lines for side
panels and tabs.
41. Position and attach front accent panel,
narrow side wall accent strips, and specialty
"January" panel onto the solid front of door.
42. Position, then attach the lower edges of
front and back door "box" panels, overlapping
the lower front straight edge over the back panel's
bottom edge flange.
43. If using magnets, position and attach
1/4" wide magnet strip behind right edge of
back door panel, where it will line up with
the metal strip placed in the right hull side wall
(see step 5).
44. Prepare the door strut reinforcement strips
in same manner as for baffle struts 
(steps 25 & 26).
45. Position and attach the struts 'X' in the inside
face of the back door panel, centered as shown.
46. Bend the front door panel over the back
to form the door box, tucking end tabs in,
and gluing overlapping walls side walls
to flanges underneath. Then . . . 
. . . tuck in top flap . . .  
. . . and glue in place.
47. Position and attach the door back panel
cover, centered. NOTE: using glue adhesive
"tape" to attach this panel may be easier
than liquid glue.
48. Fit the door unit into the cutout on the front
of the wardrobe. It will likely fit snugly.
49. Prepare the hinge units (paper) by bending
forward at centers of both base and accent
shapes. Assemble by layering, matching holes.
NOTE that the forward edge of the base shape
is slightly blunted to fit onto the side edge
of the door.
to have the door function regularly,
a better choice is to use metal hinges
such as this one from Tim Holtz.
50. Position the hinges so that the center
perforation line (paper) or pin (metal)
is at the crack between
door and hull, equal distance from
top and bottom, and glue in place.
Pierce the door and hull at the brad
holes, then insert stems and glue 
brad heads in place (both paper or metal).
51. Prepare the drawer tray by bending back
on all perforation lines and tabs. 
Position and attach the "liner" accent shape
in the bottom of the tray.
Bend sides up and glue four corner tab seams.
52. If using the January (or similar print paper)
you may wish to use one of the edge borders
as accent strip on drawer front. Use the 
cut shape to trace and cut out, 
pierce the drawer pull holes.
NOTE that cut file includes both double punch
and single punch variations for drawer front.
53. Assemble drawer front, then center and
attach to the front of the drawer tray. 
For sturdiness, consider cutting 2 extra drawer front
shapes from wardrobe main card stock to
layer under the colored drawer front.
Then .  . . 
. . . insert the drawer into the wardrobe. 
Prepare the paper lock plate by first
layering and gluing 3 copies of the three shapes
into their own stacks, then layering ring
onto inner oval, then onto outer oval.
55. Prepare the flap by layering the accent
shape onto the base shape, attaching
the lock plate where openings of each line up.
Position and attach straight edge onto
the edge of the door box
(flap will be stationary, will NOT bend outward).
56. Position the back cover rectangle over
 the back of wardrobe to cover assembly tabs.
57. Layer the optional pediment plaque,
including a panel fussy-cut from the specialty
print (can be seen in next step image of print)
then position and attach to the pediment,
centered as shown. Add accent studs over holes.
58. Prepare the optional January build-up shape
by using the template shape to position over
the print card stock, and tracing a cutting line.
NOTE that the template includes an "UP" arrow.
59. Layer and stack the build up offset shapes,
then position and attach the January cutout.
60. Complete the embellishments as desired.
Here are notations to show what
was added to the model project.