Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Construction Vehicle Action Cards Construction Tutorial

Activity Vehicle 5x7 Card Designs 
from SnapDragon Snippets

 Dump Truck  has wheels that spin and dumper bucket that pivots. 
Cement Mixer has wheels that spin and mixer barrel that can pivot.
Fork Lift has lift on a penny slider mechanism so that lift moves up and down.
Review the following assembly tips that will show how to layer and attach 
the moving parts so that your favorite child recipient can have
the most fun possible with these unique card designs!
Great for "Construction Vehicles Party" or "Work Zone" activities.


General Notes:
Each download file includes some extra shapes, including a "card front" base shape. Use this as a contrast foundation for building the vehicle if you wish. OR, use it alone as a "post card" style card or over-size tag, or to create 2d shapes for use with other decor such as a banner. NOTE that the vehicle shapes are offset slightly within the edges of the card.

Dump Truck:
A. Assemble the shapes on the card front. NOTE here how the truck bed (red) strip needs to align below the dumper stop tab slot.

B. Prepare the "stop tab" by folding in half at center perf, then folding end perfs outward. Glue the top portion layers together.

C. Insert the top of stop tab from card front backside to front. NOTE: it is a tight fit; if the thickness of the card stock you are using makes it too tight, use scissors to narrow the tab slightly

D. Fold end tabs outward on card backside and glue in place.

E. Complete remaining assembly, including wheels (attach to card front with medium brads), door with handle, and dumper layers. 

F. Position assembled dumper so that pivot hole lines up with corresponding card front hole. Insert and affix brad.
NOTE: punch holes are sized for "American Crafts Medium Brad" stems. If the brads you select have wider stems, simply push through the aligned holes.

G. Here is the finished card front. NOTE how the lower front edge of dumper stops at the protruding "stop tab".

Here the dumper is down in transport mode, . . . .

. . . and here the dumper is up in unloading mode

 Cement Mixer:
A. Assemble the shapes on the card front similar to the dump truck, including the layered contrast grill base (black) with grill (red), door base (green) with door frame (blue) and handle, cab with top rim overlapped, truck bed and bumper strip (blue).

B. Assemble the mixer barrel with end contrast base shape (grayish), center base shape (white), stripes overlay (blue). 

C. Position barrel over card front with holes aligned, then insert brad through support shape (red) and attach brad through layers.

D. With brad helping to position upper portion of support shape properly, glue  bottom only of support shape over truck bed strip shape (green), keeping lower straight edge aligned with bed and bumper edges.

E. Assemble and attach wheels with brads.

F. Here I am demonstrating how the barrel can pivot to help deliver its load.

Fork Lift:
A. Assemble the vehicle shapes on the card front, including chassis, layered engine (black) and grille (gray), seat (red), dash (brown) and control stick (black). This image shows some of the pre-assembly completed.

B. Assemble the star barrels, and lift base strips onto the slider base shape.

C. Fold the handle strip tab in half at center perf, fold lower tabs outward at lower perfs. Glue the upper center portion together.

D. Insert the tab through the slider base slot. If it seems too thick to fit, trim the width slightly with scissors.

E. Glue the tabs to the backside of slider base.

F. Locate the foam square position on the slide base backside. Affix a 1/4" foam square at that position.

G. Position the slider with the foam square inserting into the slide slot of card front.

Here you can see the slider in place, viewed from the inside of card front.

H. Hot glue (or other appropriate adhesive) a penny centered over the foam square.

I. Attach the penny cover circle.

Here you can see how the slider can be moved from the inside of the card.

Here, the lift is moved using the handle tab. It can be lowered ....

... or raised. 

(The single slot construction will need a little "assist" to keep the lift straight.)

J. Complete the card by assembling wheel layers, then attaching with brads, as with other vehicles.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Kid's Hard Hat Adjustable Party Hat Tutorial

Make an adjustable party hard hat to fit your "Construction Zone" kid party
using this new cut file design available soon from SnapDragon Snippets
(through SVG Attic and Silhouette America's online store).
Sized to fit young children approx. ages 4-8 
with average head circumference measurement of 19-21".
(See final instructions after Step 14 for a simplified version idea.)

1. Identify and cut the pieces.

For the sample, colors were used as follows:
Deepest yellow: body,bill, inner lamp circle
Mid yellow: crest
Lightest yellow: "work zone" front, crest accent
Golden yellow: lamp circle
Black: sign back contrast layer
White: lamp starburst
Sparkle white: lamp smallest circle

2. Fold hat body slightly downward on perforations. Bring side section tab toward front, attach under the front side edge as shown, aligning lower edges of front and side. Repeat for the opposite side.

3. Fold the bill slightly on perforations. Fold tabs upward. Position at the body front lower edge.

4. Attach center segment bill tab behind body lower front edge, then attach each side tab in similar fashion.

5. Prepare "crest" reinforcing shape by folding inward on all perforations. Side "L" shapes will line up roughly with the shaped center section.

6. Align a center section edge with corresponding side edge and glue in place. Continue to align each center edge (by folding center at perforation so that angle matches side edges) with side section edges, until all sides are joined to center. NOTE: Back end (beyond the longest center section) has a small section that connects with tiny side edge, BUT end tab section should remain free and unattached.

Here is a side view with all but the small end section being glued to final set of tabs.

And  here is the end view.

7. Align crest over body construction, with narrower FRONT end toward hat front. Line up crest tabs with hat body slots, then insert tabs, fold tabs to sides, and attach to underside of hat body. 

Here is a view of the inside of the hat with the tabs inserted through slots.

8. Fold the back end tab under, align perforation with the edge of hat body, and glue in place.

9. Fold crest accent shape on perforations, then center and glue in place on crest, lining up perforations of each. 

10. Layer "stencil" sign front with contrast back (slightly smaller than front panel).

11. Assemble layers of the lamp light: base large circle, second circle, sunburst shape, center light circle.

12. For added dimension, place a foam square or circle at the center back of circle assembly.

13. Position lamp on second crest segment from the bottom (or wherever you think best).

14. Bring side "strap" areas to center back and insert "hook" into selected slot. Positioning of slots will allow adjustment in approximately 1/2" increments. During the party introduction, consider making this connection more permanent with cellophane tape.

And here is the finished party hat! How many will your party require? Assembly is quick enough that a bunch won't be a problem.

NOTE: For even faster, simplified construction: Use the optional hat body shape that has the crest slots eliminated. Make the hat without the crest detail. Simply skip Steps 5-9. Then attach the sign and the lamp light (with foam dimension square), and you're done!

Have a wonderful party!

Hazard Cone Drink Cover Tutorials

If you're planning a "Construction Zone" kids' party
(with trucks and diggers and work guys, and stuff)
this pair of new designs available soon from
SnapDragon Snippets
(through SVG Attic or Silhouette America)
will help you trick out your service table!
Hazard cone drink covers - small for 8 oz. water bottle,
and larger for retro glass bottle soda - 
made to order.
NOTE:  These tutorial steps are for the DELUXE version of short & tall cones.
If preferred, radically simplified (less realistic) construction is also possible.
See Step ? for these options.

1. Identify and cut the shapes.

These are the shapes that are needed for ONE cone: 1 each body tube, top hexagon, upper and lower "square" bases; 8 base edge depth strips (review options later in tutorial); 6 each of two stripe shape sizes.

These are the shapes that are needed for ONE cone: 1 each body tube, top hexagon, upper and lower "hexagon" bases; 6 base edge depth strips (review options later in tutorial); 6 each of two stripe shape sizes.

2. Fold top tabs down at lowest perforations on all six body tube segments. Fold on section perforations.

3. Fold tabs upward at tab upper perforations. Unfold end tab opposite side seam long tab.

4. Glue ONLY the narrow section of each tab to the tube body. Keep the end "shaped" tab portion UNATTACHED. Also, leave the end tab unglued until Step 6.

5. Form the body into a tube by bringing long edges together, then glue the long body tab under the opposite straight edge.

NOTE the top end tab is still free and extended.

6. Glue the final top tab down as for others in Step 2.

Because of the length of the seam, it may prove helpful to use a long tool such as a new pencil as shown in this image, inserted into tube and placed behind the seam to provide a pressure surface to help the seam attach properly.

7. Fold the lower end tabs outward.

8. Fold upper tabs perpendicular into the center of the hexagon tube. Apply adhesive to the upper surface of all tabs. Insert hexagon into shape, adjusting the "tube" shape so that the hexagon sits completely onto the tabs ledge.

Insert fingers through opening to apply pressure to the hexagon and tabs to ensure a complete bond. Also take care that the straight edges of the hex seat snugly next to the tube rim straight edges.

9. Attach the striping shapes to each tube section. Positioning of stripes can vary. Locate the "level" where the side edges of shorter UPPER shape and longer LOWER shapes align with the section edges/perforations. Continue attaching shapes, taking care that they line up from one section to the next, and remain parallel to the upper cone rim.

Top stripe should be 1/2" to 5/8" below upper edge, and lower stripe should be approx. 1/2" below upper stripe.

Top stripe should be approx. 1" to 1 1/8" below upper edge, and lower stripe should be about a stripe's width below upper stripe.

Both base shapes include "cut-on" side edge extensions that will give bases some depth and strength, and more realism. Extra edge depth strips are added between the base shape layers to add even more depth. These can be omitted, if preferred for quicker, simpler construction.

FOR SHORT CONE: (Steps 10-12)
10. Fold base side edge extensions inward and glue in place. Do this for BOTH upper (hexagon opening) and lower (circle opening) base shapes.

11. Fold and glue inside edges together for all 8 base edge depth strips.

12. Position and glue an edge strip to each edge of UPPER and LOWER base shapes, taking care that edges align, and that each is positioned properly to allow miter edges to abut at corners.

13. Fold two-section edge extensions inward (then outward again) so that they lay behind the hexagon base shape of BOTH the upper (hex opening) and lower (circle) bases. Apply adhesive to "between" surfaces so that the stack is completely attached.

TIP: Use finger pressure to all parts of the assembled shape, especially at the corner miter seam, to ensure complete and smooth attachment of edges.

14. Fold and glue each of the 6 extra depth strips, then glue each in place on EITHER the upper or lower base shapes. 

FOR EITHER SIZE: (small cone used in illustrations)

15. Position the upper base face side up and insert the cone top up through opening from the bottom. Adjust, turn, ease down into place around the cone "tube" until the hex opening straight edges sit snugly against the body straight edges. 

16. Apply glue to each tab face side (before or after Step 15), then apply pressure for secure joining.

This is how the tabs look, glued in place under the upper base shape.

17. Apply adhesive to the edges of the lower base shape, then position upper cone assembly over the lower base, line up all edges accurately, then apply pressure for a good joining.

This is how the completed small cone looks from the bottom.

18. When preparing the table setting for the party or celebration, simply place the bottle on the table and slide the cone over the top.

NOTE:  It may be possible to enlarge the small cone to fit over kid juice bottles that are slightly larger than the 8 oz. water bottle for which it was originally sized. For instance, enlarging all shapes being used  by 116-117% may achieve the correct cone size for Tum-E Yummies brand of kid juice bottle. (Complete a test before cutting multiples.)

Here is the tall cone being placed over the tall retro pop bottle.

The tall bottle neck extends much farther out of the top opening than the water bottle in the short cone.

The pop bottle that was used as the "model" for this original design is "Frostie". Most likely the Jones brand, plus Coke, Pepsi, and others will fit the height and opening shapes, too. Creating a proto type to test your particular bottle body shape may be helpful.

consider these options:
A. Use the cone body (either size) along with the top hexagon shape. Fold the bottom tabs inside the "tube" and glue in place (or cut off at perforations with scissors, etc.). Add white accent stripe shapes.

B. Use ONLY the cone body WITHOUT the top hexagon. Fold both top and bottom tabs to the inside of the tube: and glue in place. Add white accent stripe shapes.