Saturday, April 28, 2018

Boxes Pair for 3x5 Index Cards

Perfect boxes to hold daily scriptures, thoughts of encouragement, 
collected birthday messages, wedding wishes, recipes and more. 
Each box is composed of two shapes and includes latch bottom 
and tuck top that holds standard 3x5 
index cards snugly inside, viewable through windows.
Circle window box (1.5" deep) has teardrop and scallop layers "icing" trim, 
with varied size flowers with leaf sprigs
to attach with mini brads to box.
Oval window box (2" deep; no-window version 1" deep)
has layered "icing" trim alone. 
Box side wall accent shapes are included 
to decorate with favorite paper selection. 
Also includes a corner punch 3x5 card that can be connected 
with short ball chain, tucked inside the assembled box. 
Or use the "Card Index Flip Cards" varied designs 
to create your own matching card inserts. 
Measures 1.5" deep, just larger than 3" wide x 5" long 
(can hold around 90 cards of 65 lb weight). 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main box hull with lid   B side wall accents
C front box hull  D accent shapes
E contrast underlay   F clear window panel
G contrast "icing" accent ring
H "icing" overlay ring (matches box hull)
I leaf sprigs (2) and flower decorations
A main box hull with lid   B side & back wall accents
C main box front hull   D side & back wall accents
E oval opening "icing" contrast and overlay
F index card with rounded edges and punch hole
(also included in the circle window box file)
(Circle window box assembly is shown first;
oval window box will follow)
2. Prepare the hull shapes by bending back on
all wall, panel, flange and tab perforation lines.
3. Position and join the back and front hull shapes
along one side seam by overlapping the straight
side edge over the corresponding side flange tab
to perforation line, adjusting to make top and bottom
wall edges of each shape align, then glue together.
3A. Position and attach the side panel accent shapes
offset by .1 within the side, front and 
back wall panel edges.
4. Prepare the clear window liner shape by
applying clear double stick tape along the top surface
edges. Kool Tak 1/8" tape shown here was used
on the sample projects.
5. Position and attach clear panel to the
underside of the contrast panel, matching edges
and single punch hole.
6. Position the contrast underlay panel 
under the front panel, face surface upward
(clear panel as bottom layer) . . . 
. . . match circle opening
edges of each, and attach in place.
7. Form the box hull into a tube to bring the remaining
side edge and tab together to complete the final
side seam.
8. Position the narrower top "icing" ring over
the contrast ring, match inner opening edges
exactly, and adjust so that the resulting
reveal of contrast is a wavy line, not just a scallop.
Glue the rings together.
9. Position the ring on the front of the box
matching the inner circle openings, and also
rotating the accent rings so that the lid cutout
tear drops fall between the arches of accent.
10 Position the leaf sprigs as shown below,
with the end punch holes aligned at the middle
hole of the box lid, then attach in place.
11. Position smaller flowers over the top and
bottom punch holes and attach in place 
around punch hole.
12. Add some curl to the petals of the larger
top blossom, then layer with the largest flower
over the center hole and attach in place.
Add contrast mini brads through punch holes
as flower centers.
13. To close the box, expand the hull into
its tube form, bend the 'U' front flap inward . . . 
. . . then fold the side flaps inward . . . 
. . . then fold the back 'tab' flap inward, and
continue to press slightly upward toward
the interior of the box until the tab inserts
into the 'U' shape slot.
Then re-position the bottom flaps so they
are flat and perpendicular to box sides.
Here is the completed circle window box.
14. Prepare the two hull shapes by bending
back on all panel, wall and tab perforation lines.
Join the side seam as described in step 3.
Position and attach the side, front and 
back wall accent shapes to corresponding
hull panel spaces.
15. Layer the oval window "icing" accent shapes
with interior edges aligned as precisely as possible,
with reveal of contrast accent forming a wavy line,
and glue together.
16. Position and attach to box lid, matching
window opening edges.
17. Prepare, position and attach the clear
window panel behind the window opening
of lid panel . . . 
. . . taking care to center it over the window opening.
18. To close the box, bend front panel inward . . . 
. . . the fold side panels inward . . . 
. . . then fold back panel inward until tab
slots into the slot space, then readjust panels
to be flat as box bottom.
Here is the completed oval window box.
19. Prepare a stack of index card shapes using
the one included in each of the box's cut file.
Or, use the Card Index Flip Card designs
to "Print & Cut" (tutorial link HERE )
specialized cards to suit
the purpose of the gift box: Scripture,
Recipe, Sentiments, Passages, plain or simply lined.
Thread a short length of ball/bracket link chain
through the corner hole to keep them organized
and handy to refer to.

Bookmark Hook Style with Monogram Tile Dangler

Here's a quick and easy gift to personalize 
for that "hard copy" book lover in your life. 
Main shape replicates the classic 
thin metal hook staff that fits between 
the pages of closed book, with dangling round "bead" 
and monogram square that hang down the outside of book spine. 
Layers are glued together to give the shapes 
weight and strength. Small jump hooks (6mm or larger) 
join the shapes through punch holes. 
Paper "bead" can be swapped out for jewelry beads. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A staff (cut 4-5 depending on card stock weight -
as many as comfortably fit between book pages
when book is closed and place being held)
B tile body (4)  C "bead" (6)
D tile accent  E monogram accent
Also shown: 6mm jump rings for dangler (5)
2. Layer the staff shapes and glue together,
taking care that all edges and punch holes
line up as precisely as possible.
NOTE: it will be helpful to placed the glued-up
shape under a flat heavy weight during the
drying process to avoid curling and warping.
3. Layer the tile shapes into a stack and glue
together; flatten under a weight while drying.
Layer the bead shapes into a stack and glue
together and press under a weight while drying.
4. Position and attach the tile accent square
in the center of the tile stack. Also position
and attach the monogram shape.
5. Orient the staff, bead and tile shapes,
then insert a 6mm or slightly larger jump ring
into the punch holes of staff and top of bead,
then join with a third ring.
Insert a jump ring through the bottom of bead
and top of tile, then join these two together
(or add a third ring between).
NOTE: the paper bead can be replaced by
jewelry beads and other two-end danglers.
Here is the completed bookmark.

Sunday, April 22, 2018

Lantern 3D Hanging for Votive Tea Light

Miniature rectangular lantern is sized to hang 
from the "Flower Wreath Stand"  (view that project HERE).
A modified arm for stand included in the file.
Lantern measures approx. 3.75 wide x 3.75 deep x 7.5" tall 
(including hanging loop). Show-thru "grille" panels hull, 
has reinforced at corners with square posts 
(insert .25" cut-to-size dowel lengths into posts for strength).
Hull fits into bevel-edge base.
Slightly-domed top fits into dimensional rim and connects 
to top of center column and hanging loop. 
Back grille swings open to allow 
access to interior. Inside the lantern, 
an octagonal "candle" column holds a small battery
votive (standard 1" diameter), 
with optional wax-catcher octagon cup underneath. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A hull (main) wall sections (2)
B wall overlays (6)
C back wall overlays (2)  D latch nib strips (2)
E opt. corner posts (4)
F base shape (NOTE this has been modified)
G base bottom opening cover
H interior platform
I top rim
J top dome (NOTE this has been modified)
K top column   L hanging loop assembly (2 ea of 2)
M front grille window overlay
N side grille window overlay (2)
O back grille overlay with nib slots
P optional modified display post arm, reinforcements
Q candle column    R wax catcher
2. Prepare the base shape by bending back
on all panel, wall and tab perforations.
3. Bend adjacent walls back to perpendicular
position to bring straight side seam edge to
overlap opposite tab to perforation, and glue
lower portion of side seam. 
(Eventually complete for all 4 corners.)
4. Bend bevel wall panels inward to align straight
seam edge at tab perf line, and glue upper seam portion.
Repeat for all 4 corner bevel seams.
5. Prepare the main hull wall sections by bending
back at center vertical perf line, at flanges and
6. Join the two wall sections by overlapping
the straight edge of one over the corresponding
side tab perf line, adjust for alignment of
top and bottom of wall panels, and glue seam.
7. Layer pairs of wall overlays and glue together,
taking care that all inner and outer cut edges
are aligned as precisely as possible.
NOTE it may be helpful to press the glued-together
shapes under a flat weight during the glue drying
process in order to prevent curling or warping.
8. Layer and glue together the two back wall
frame overlays similarly, taking care to line up
the nib slots in the lower corners.
9. Prepare the nib strips by bending back at
the center perf cut, and forward at the two
side perf cuts, so that the strip sort of forms
a letter 'M' shape.
10. Glue the center two segments together
to create an inverted 'T' shape. Side segments
should remain free to act as side tabs.
11.Insert the nib tip through the wall overlay
slot from the back side and push in fully
until side tabs rest against back of wall.
Glue tabs in place. Repeat nib on opposite side.
12. Position the two-layer wall overlay on the back
panel of the main hull assembly, matching
inner edges as exactly as possible, and glue in place.
13. Position and attach the other "regular" wall
overlays onto the remaining wall openings
in the same fashion.
14. Prepare the back wall grille  by bending
forward along the top segment perf line
to form a narrow "hinge" flange.
15. Position the back grille over the back
panel so that the grille's slots fit over
the nibs, match the inner frame cut edges
of window opening and the grille frame opening edges,
then  glue the flange in place above the window opening.
NOTE it may be helpful to place a flat weight
along the hinge area to keep it flat while drying.
16. Position the two side grilles over the appropriate
hull panels, with the front circle grille over the
middle panel (which will end up opposite the back
when the hull is completed).
ALTERNATELY you can use 3 lattice grilles
and omit the circle panel. Flatten with weights
while drying, if possible.
17. Form the hull into a tube to overlap the straight
back edge over the opposite flange, and complete
side seam.
18. Fit the hull bottom edge (with long flange)
into the top opening of the base assembly,
and direct the base's side tabs into the corresponding
slots of the hull. NOTE using a thin blade tool
such as a spatula or fingernail file to help ease
the tab lead edges under the slot edge, until . . . 
. . . the hull is inserted fully and flange perforation
crest rests on bottom of base.
19. On the inside of hull, bend the tabs
downward and glue in place to the back inside
of hull walls.
20. Prepare the platform shape by bending back
the side flanges, and also bending downward
the tiny triangle tabs at each inset corner.
21. Apply glue to the inside surfaces
of the hull assembly . . . 
. . . then insert the platform into the hull from top . . .
. . . and gently work the platform downward
until side flanges rest on the base bottom surface.
Apply pressure to the sides to attach in place.
22. Prepare the optional post shapes by bending
back on the long perforation lines between
wall panels and along edge flange.
23. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap
straight edge to long flange perforation line,
and glue in place.
NOTE it may be helpful to use the .25" dowel
as a form to wrap the post shape and help
join the side seam.
(The square post can also be pressed flat
to overlap edge to flange perf line
and complete seam that way.)
24. Measure the lengths of optional .25" dowel
by pushing the dowel end even with tube end
(on the left in this image), then marking 
the opposite edge of the tube position on the dowel.
Use wood saw to cut across (perpendicular).
Cut dowels for 4 posts.
25. Apply glue to the inward two edges as shown in
the image below. Then position a post at 
interior corner of hull, with pair of end tabs toward 
the center, and insert end through the square 
opening at the corner, and push down fully . . . 
. . . until the bottom of post (tabs) rest against
the base bottom surface, and the top of tube
and dowel are even with the top of the hull).
Apply pressure to appropriate areas to
keep post surfaces tight in corner surfaces.
Position and attach remaining 3 posts.
26. Prepare candle column by bending back
on all perforation lines, except the top 7 flange
tabs bend forward/upward.
27. Form the candle column into a tube
to position and join the side seam.
28. Bend the bottom cap into position
and adjust so that tab perf lines line up
with the octagon cap edges, and glue in place.
29. Prepare the wax catcher shape by bending
back at inward perf lines of edge flanges,
also bend forward at wall base perf lines
and side wedge tabs.
30. Bend the wall straight side edge to overlap
adjacent wedge tab to perf line and complete
first side seam. Repeat the positioning to join
the remaining 7 side seams.
31. Bend the outer side flanges (walls) down
and glue in place around outer cup surfaces.
32. Position bottom of candle column into
wax catcher cup, center and glue in place.
33. Insert the candle/cup assembly into hull
interior to center and glue bottom of cup
to platform.
34. Prepare the top rim shape by bending back
on all walls, flanges, and inward opening flanges.
35. Re-bend the window flanges outward/upward
to allow for wall construction.
36. Bend two adjacent walls back to align straight
side edge over tab to perf line and complete seam. 
Complete remaining side seams.
37. Fit the top rim over the tops of hull walls
and fit tabs through slots.
Bend tabs toward center and glue in place.

38. Prepare the top dome shape
by bending back on all perforation lines for
walls, dome sections, lid center triangle tabs.
39. Bend the first two adjacent walls back to
align the bottom segment straight edge
overlapped to opposite tab perf line, and glue seam.
NOTE: the bottom edge tab extensions
visible in these images were designed OUT
of the final version of the dome shape.
Please disregard.
40. Bend top segments back to position
and complete that part of seam.
Complete the two-part seams for remaining corners.
41. Bend top panel (lid) down into position,
adjust and glue edges to flanges beneath.
42. Prepare the hanger loop by bending
bottom tabs outward on front and back shapes.
43. Position the non-tab inner shape over
the inside face of front hanger loop,
work to align inner and outer curved edges
as precisely as possible. Join second
inner shape onto assembly, then . . . 
. . . add back
shape over the assembly, matching edges
as precisely as possible. Use flat weight
to keep flat during drying.
44. Prepare the top column shape by bending
back on all panel and flange tab perf lines.
45. Insert bottom tabs of hanger into roof slot . . . 
. . . then bend tabs back and glue in place
to the underneath surface of roof.
46. Bend panels into position to complete
the four side seams.
47. Insert the bottom end of the column assembly
through the dome top opening and push down
into position until . . . 
. . . tabs are exposed at bottom. 
Bend tabs outward and glue in place.
NOTE: the side tabs that are visible as outlines
in this image have been designed out
of the final file version. Please disregard.
48. On the topside, depress the dome roof slightly
on each side to apply glue on the center column surface
so that it will attach to the dome's opening triangle tabs.
49. Fit dome into top rim recess and
gently work downward until dome is fully down.
Glue in place.
50. Open back grille by unlatching nibs
from slots, position tea light into top
of candle column, then re-close grille
and latch nibs into slots.
Here is the completed lantern.
51. To use with the "Wreath Display Stand",
prepare and replace the original arm
with the shorter arm shapes included
in the lantern file.
This shorter arm will keep the weight center
of the lantern closer in to the post to prevent
undesired tipping.
(This image was taken on the original arm.)