Needles 'n' Knowledge: Bathtub Vintage 3D Container with Faucet and Flourish

Offer a special gift in a unique container shaped

like the iconic free-standing soaker tub.

Bath tub measures just under 9" long x 5.275" wide

at rim edges, 4.75" tall at back and 3.75" at front.

Hull is composed of wedges that fit together to form

the oblong bowl shape. with fit-on rim that has

inner scalloped flange tabs and outer fold-under edges.

Interior panel accents provide camouflage for seam tabs

and a chance to add some pattern flare.

Inner floor overlay has drain cutout and contrast underlay.

Tub is supported on triangle tube legs with outer leg covers,

flare overlays and swirly crest and ball accents

to imitate Victorian ball feet.

Finish the authenticity by adding separate design

"Tub Faucet and Spigot" dimensional design to

tub front end or side.
(Faucet assembly begins in Step 35.)

Add extra elegance with

"Flourish Vintage Vine and Tulip" crest

(reduced at 66%) on the side panel.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A hull bottom panel with attached center front
B-F hull back panel wedges
G & H hull side panels
I interior bottom accent panel
J drain grille and contrast underlay circle accents
K back half rim L front half rim
M interior accent panels for back, front, sides
(lighter than card stock paper recommended)
N leg base shapes (4) O leg posts (4)
P & Q front & back leg overlay bases
R leg overlay accents

2. Identify and cut the faucet & spigot shapes:

A stand pipe main interior layers (4)

B right side stand pipe outer layer (with tab)

C left side stand pipe outer layer (with tab)

D & E left, right spout pipe build up (4 each)

F knob (4 each) & G spigot handle (6 each) build up

H & I spout rim build up (4 each)

J rim bracket (2)

K & L bottom bracket build up (1 opt. solid, 2 punched)

3. Prepare the back hull wedge shapes by bending

back on all side tabs and segment perforation lines.

4. Prepare the hull side panels and bottom panel
by bending back on tabs and flanges,
segment perforation lines.

5. Position the center back wedge panel bottom tab

under the back center edge of the bottom panel

edge even with tab perforation line and centered

from side to side, and glue in place.

6. Position the right back wedge along the corresponding
side tabs of center back wedge, aligning center
segments as shown, straight edge overlapped
to opposite tab perforation line, and glue in place.
Bend the two joining edges to align the edge and
perforation line for the next segments above
and below, until all segments of the seam are
aligned and attached.

7. Position and attach the right side back wedge

in a similar manner, aligning the center segments

and attaching, then working upward and downward

until all segments are attached in place.

8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to position and attach the

left back and left side back wedges to the opposite

side of the center back wedge.

9. Position the corresponding left or right side panel

(left shown here) in place along the corresponding

back wedges assembly edge, aligning the bottom

short segments first and attaching. Apply glue to

tabs, then align the top edges to be attached and

secure before adjusting the segmented side back

edge tabs perf lines to match up to the straight

side panel edge. (This is a little tricky.)

10. Repeat for the opposite side panel seam.

11. Adjust and join the short segment seams
at the side front "wedge" panels by overlapping
the straight edge to the adjacent wedge tab
perforation line. Complete the pair of "dart" seams
for both left and right side panels.

12. Bend the bottom panel into position so that

the straight side edges will line up with bottom tabs

of each of the facets of the hull assembly,

adjust and glue in place one or two segments

at a time.

13. Bend the center front (attached) panel into
position to overlap the corresponding tabs of
previous assembly, adjust and glue in place.

14. Since card stock thickness can affect accuracy of
the "wrap" of the side seam joinings, scissor-trim any
inconsistencies or mismatching along top rim edge.

15. Prepare the front and back rim shapes

by bending back on all scalloped inward flanges

and outer rim flanges, also bend slightly

at the small perf marks along the rim panels

and at back rim end tab perf marks.

16. Position the center back inward (scalloped edge)

flange on the interior surface of the hull assembly,

taking care to center side to side precisely along the

center back wedge upper edge, and glue in place.

17. Bend the side center back segment of the rim
into position so that the inward flange bend sits
snugly along the hull rim edge, and the rim bend
lines up with the peak of the hull rim edge
as precisely as possible, and glue flange in place.

18. Continue to bend subsequent rim sections

into position along hull rim, adjusting, then attaching

in place until all inward flange segments are in place

along both sides of tub.

19. In similar manner, position the center flange tab
of the front rim shape at the hull center front edge
segment, adjust for side to side alignment,
and glue in place.

20. Position, adjust, align and attach the flanges
around each front half of hull in similar manner.
When the final section of rim is being positioned
and attach, apply glue to the back rim end tab
then overlap and attach rim ends during the
attachment of final segment.

21. Bend the rim outer flanges under, beginning
at the back center side flanges, and glue
in place (back to back with rim).
NOTE: the flange widths are designed to be
very snug, so take care to work the inward
edge into place along the rim perf line bend.
This snug fit will help the rim stay rigid.
Once the side center back flanges are bent
and glued into position, bend the center flange
under and glue in place, then work around rim
until all are bent under and attached.

22. Prepare the interior bottom accent shape

by positioning the contrast circle on the underside

center, so that the hole punch is completely covered.

23. Position and attach the drain grille in
the circle recess.

24. Position the bottom accent into the hull

interior with the drain toward the narrower front,

and attach in place.

25. Prepare the interior accent overlays by

bending forward on the perforation lines.

Position each, offset approx. .1" in from

panel edges, with perforation lines matched

as closely as possible.

26. Prepare the leg base shapes by bending

back on the perforation lines.

Bend the straight "seam" edge into position

over the corresponding triangle tab perf line

and join the short seam. Complete 4 leg bases.

27. Prepare the leg shape by bending back

on panel and tab perf lines, bending top petal

tabs forward.

28. Form the leg shape into a tube to bring

the straight side edge to overlap the opposite

tab perf line, adjust top to bottom, and

join the seam.

NOTE it may be helpful to insert a narrow rod

tool such as a knitting needle or skewer into

the tube to provide a "press against" surface

to help join the seam.

29. Apply glue to the petal top tab backsides,
also to the inward pair of narrow panels, then . . .

. . . position the narrow panels into the corner

at the backside of leg base, with the top petal tabs

attaching to underside of base platform.

Bottom edges (shown here at top of image)

should be even.

Here is the complete leg base unit.

30. Position the leg on the hull bottom panel,
at the "seam" at each end of long side panel,
with center "bend" of leg base lines up at
hull crest as shown.
Repeat for remaining 3 legs.

31. Prepare the leg overlay bases by bending

forward at mid perf marks,

also bending the center tab

back, and lobe perf back.

NOTE there are two mirror image sets of shapes

which will be positioned in specific leg locations

as noted below.

32. Join the left and right halves at the center
edge and tab seam (lower half only is joined).

33. Position the leg accent overlay halves onto

the accent base, NOTING that there are

specific accent flourishes that correspond

to the accent base where the lobe bends.

Take care to line up the center straight edges

or edge with seam.

Position and attach the center-bended "ball foot"

accent shape at bottom of leg assembly.

34. Position each accent base leg assembly
over the leg base attached previously to hull,
so that the center cut edges spread to fit to
the hull lower segment shape, then . . .

. . . glue all touching edges in place,
bending the forward lobe
to also wrap around the hull's shape.

Here is the completed 3D tub.

35. Position each (4) of the interior layer stand pipe

shapes on top of each other, and glue in place

taking care to line up ALL cut edges as precisely

as possible, with particular attention to the front slot.

36. Position left and right top layer stand pipes
which include the bottom end attachment tabs,
over the interior stack, and glue in place . . .

. . . (tabs stay unattached), taking care to align
all edges as precisely as possible.

NOTE: it will be helpful to press the glued up layers -

here and throughout the faucet assembly -

under a flat weight such as this muslin-covered

re-purposed free weight bar, or something similar,

for an hour or more, until liquid glue has completely

dried, to avoid warping or curling.

37. Prepare the spout pipe layers by layering
4 in a left stack, and 4 in a right stack,
aligning all cut edges as precisely as possible
as before, and pressing under flat weight.