Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Fishing Pole 3D Magnetic Toy Model

Working magnetic model imitates vintage wood 
component pole and reel for "light use" when catching 
magnetic fish (like those in the "Fish Pair Magnetic 
for Game" sets available as pairs in separate cut files). 
Wooden dowels (5/16", 3/8" and 3/4" diameters) 
clad with card stock hex tubes 
make the pole, reel peg and hand grip sturdy, 
Reel "box" interior support panel anchors pole and handle, 
and also holds built-up layered flywheels with nub handle 
which turns to wind twine "line". 
Watch the spindle turn through the "stretch O" shaped 
opening at box center. Dome "bobber" camouflages 
the .75" diameter "ceramic" magnet disc. 
Measures approx. 22" (pole)  x 3.5" x 3.5" (box).


ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A & B pole wrap hex tube strips
C pole joint wrap strip
D handle wrap hex tube strip
E pole end line guide (eyelet)
F reel box body with accent shapes
G box interior support
H support build up rectangles
(anchors for pole & handle ends; 8 ea.)
I box tunnel tube   J tunnel end 'O's (2)
K grip handle accents (3)
L reel wheels post
M right wheel nub handle
N left wheel shapes
O right wheel shapes (includes
openings for nub handle)
P bobber dome   Q magnet support box
R magnet face plate
A. The bobber component is designed to hold
a 3/4" disc magnet like these available
from Hobby Lobby.
2. Prepare the handle hex wrap tube shape
by bending back on all perforations for handle,
top hex cap and tabs.
3. Form the shape into a tube and use the 3/4" dowel
as a forming tool, applying adhesive, then wrapping 
the tube shape around dowel to overlap 
straight edge over opposite flange tab, 
pushing the edge into shape 
to ease it right up to the flange perforation line,
then glue in place.
NOTE: all tube flanges will include a tiny 'X' on flange
for identification.
4. At handle end (bottom), bend the tabs inward
then bend the cap hex into position, adjust
so that hex edges line up with facets of tube edge,
and glue in place.
NOTE: push the dowel end to align with wedge
tab perf lines to provide a press against surface.
5. With dowel pushed fully in to end, mark
dowel cutting length, then cut dowel to size.
6. Prepare the two pole tube shapes by bending
on all perforation lines for tube and end cap, tabs.
7. Use the 3/8" dowel as a form to prepare both
pole tubes in similar manner to handle tube
as shown in step 3 above, using required
force to ease the seam together (tight fit).
8. Thread the top (end cap) tube onto the dowel,
then thread the bottom tube next to it.
Place bottom tube even with dowel end,
slide top tube abutted snugly next to it,
then mark combined tube length (with cap 
bent out of the way). Remove tubes.
Cut dowel to length.
9. Re-insert dowel into tubes, bend top tabs inward,
bend and glue cap in position as for handle tube
as shown in step 4 above.
10. Prepare the seam wrap strip by bending
back on perforations. Position, centered,
over the pole tube ends, aligning bends with
tube facets, and glue securely in place.
(NOTE: there is no overlapping tab on strip;
If strip ends extend beyond tube where they
come together, trim excess.)
11. Prepare the tiny "eyelet" line guide base shape
by bending back at eyelet top (halfway point),
also on eyelet base, longer perforations.
12. Apply dab of glue behind one eyelet shape,
then glue the backsides of eyelet extension together.
13. Position the guide base near the end of
pole, on "bottom" facet, bend the sides around
pole shape, and glue in place.
14. Prepare the eyelet reinforcement shapes (2)
by bending the bottom tabs forward.
Position the reinforcement over the eyelet to
match punch openings while fitting the tabs
along the side angles of pole/guide base,
and glue all touching surfaces together.
Repeat for the other guide on opposite side
of guide base.
15. Prepare the reel box shape by bending back
on all body and flange tab perforation lines.
Also bend the hex opening wedge tabs back/inward
as shown.
16. Position and attach the body accent shapes
offset in from panel edges, even with cutouts,
slight offset around pole and handle openings.
17. Form the reel box into a tube to bring straight
edge to overlap the opposite flange tab,
and glue the seam.
18. Prepare the interior center support panel
by bending back at half point, with top tabs
extending naturally upward and also bent back,
and also bend side tabs forward.
19. Position and glue support backsides together,
taking care that side tabs remain unattached.
20. Prepare the handle end anchor build up
by layering and gluing together the shapes into a stack,
taking care to align hex cutout, outer shapes edges
as carefully and precisely as possible.
NOTE: when preparing any stacked component
for this design using liquid adhesive, it is strongly 
suggested that a flat weight be used to press
the stack during the drying process, until glue
is completely dried to avoid warping or curling.
21. Prepare the smaller hex opening pole build up
stack in similar manner.
22. Position each stack onto the interior support
on the face with the matching hex size guide marks,
center and glue in place.
NOTE: make sure that the side tabs can bend
fully to the 90 degree angle that will be required.
23. Insert the support unit into the reel box top
so that the pole or handle anchor recesses
match the box face openings, then . . . 
. . . push fully into the box interior,
taking care that support center lines up
with the lid opening notch points as guides,
and that the length of the support inside box
is parallel to front and back of box.
Glue side tab pairs in place to inside walls.
24. Prepare to insert the handle
by applying adhesive at the hex recess edges
inside the box, also to the bent-inward wedge
tabs inside hex opening. Then . . . 
. . . insert the non-cap end of handle through
opening (snug fit), and push end back to seat
securely into the reinforcement stack recess.
Attach wedge tabs to pole surfaces securely,
and hold handle in place until glue is dried.
25. Repeat the process to apply glue to recess,
orient pole so that eyelet line guide is downward,
then insert pole non-cap end into box, etc.
26. Prepare the tunnel tube shape by bending
forward on long perforation lines, 
bending back on side tabs.
27. Form the shape into a tube with face side
 inward, and wrap end tab under opposite segment
with straight segment edge aligned at tab perf line,
and glue seam.
28. Bend end tabs outward. Fit optional end 'O'
shape over end tabs, adjust perforated angle edges
to match interior 'O' edges, adjust and glue tabs
in place to 'O' underside. Repeat for opposite end.
NOTE: it may be possible to insert and position
the tunnel inside the reel box without using the 'O's.
29. Apply glue to 'O' faces, then Insert the tunnel unit 
inside the box so that the tunnel edges 
line up with the box openings,
and glue in place, adjusting to make 
sure edges line up properly.
30. Bend top tabs inward, bend the "lid" panel 
into position and glue in place, using the opening
to reach fingertip inside to help attach lid and flanges. 
Repeat to bend and attach bottom panel in place.
31. Position and attach top and bottom accent
panels to hide the openings. 
32. Lay out the reel wheel components before
stacking and gluing layers into stacks.
Shown here are shapes for RIGHT (handled) wheel:
A back layer   B bottom stack (6)   C mid stack (6)
D top stack base (3)  E top ring (4)  F top ctr (4)
Shown here are the LEFT wheel stack:
B bottom stack (7)  C mid stack (6)
D top stack base (3)   E top ring (4)   F top ctr (4)
33. Position and glue together the stacks of
wheel components, taking care with each
that hex openings and outer edges line up
as precisely as possible
For RIGHT wheel, leave 'A' bottom disc unattached.
It is highly suggested that a flat weight be used
with each stack to press flat during the drying process
until liquid adhesive is completely dry and cured.
34. Position and attach top ring stack to 
top base (whole) stack, matching up outer edges.
35. Prepare the LEFT wheel unit by stacking
the built-up components (bottom, mid, top)
with center hex opening edges aligned
as precisely as possible, and glue in place.
(Retain the center disc until post is in place.)
35. Prepare the post tube by bending back
on long perforation lines (as for handle, step 2)
and also bending end tabs forward.
Form into a tube and use 3/8" dowel as a form
to prepare tube shape and join long seam.
36. Measure dowel to post length (without end tabs)
and cut segment to size.
37. Cut a 36-40" length of baker's twine, string, etc.,
and insert end through punch hole in post tube
(NOTE the hole has been moved to align on a bend)
and glue end securely inside tube.
38. Insert dowel piece, adjust so ends align at
tab perf edges, and glue in place.
39. Insert left end of post into LEFT wheel opening . . . 
. . . and check to maintain perpendicular position,
while . . . 
. . . bending tabs back at wheel face and
gluing in place, including placing adhesive
at wheel opening stack edges. Hold in perpendicular
position until post seam dries.
40. Position and attach center disc over post
tabs. (Components only shown here.)
41. Insert post end into left side circle opening,
work through tunnel openings, and out opposite side,
then pull line string through to exit out the
pole-end of the tunnel opening. 
42. Prepare the nub handle post by bending on
shaft perf lines, forming around 5/16" dowel
to join side seam, bending tabs and lid inward 
into position to attach, measure and cut dowel, 
etc., in manner similar to handle tube, steps 3-5.
43. Insert nub lid-end into hex opening of RIGHT
wheel assembly from backside, then . . . 
. . . push fully into position, then bend tabs back
and glue to wheel assembly backside.
44. Position and attach back disc to hide nub tabs.
45. Insert reel post end though RIGHT wheel
center opening until tabs are fully through, 
then bend post tabs back and glue in place.
46. Position and attach center disc unit.
47. Prepare the bobber shapes by bending back
on all perforation lines.
48. Bend back upper segments to overlap
plain angled edge over adjacent tab to perf line,
and join seam. Repeat for five seams.
49. Form the dome into a tube to align side edge
and opposite side tab, then join side seam
and final upper angle seam.
50. Bend upper tabs inward, dome hex down,
adjust for alignment, then glue in place.
51. Bend edge flanges to the inside 
and glue in place.
52. Thread line through eyelet guide, then . . . 
. . . thread end down through top of dome opening.
Tie a large knot near end, then glue knot
and line securely in place.
53. Prepare the magnet platform box by bending
back on all perforation lines.
NOTE that the box shape circle punch is TOP.
54. Form the box into a cube with the long
"support" flange bending toward inside of box,
and wrapping shorter tab around corner.
55. Bend edge tabs inward, then . . . 
. . . bend top or bottom into position and glue in place.
56. Position and attach platform box 
(hole punch top inward)
to the underside of dome lid.
57. Bend face place edge flanges back, then
position over dome bottom and insert, pushing
inward until face is even with dome edges, glue
flanges to dome inside surfaces
NOTE that it may be helpful to use a flat blade
tool such as this spatula to help push flanges
outward to attach to dome.
58. Apply strong adhesive (such as Fabri-Tack)
to top of platform box, then position and insert
magnet into place through circle opening
to attach securely.
59. Prepare handle accent shapes by bending
slightly along vertical perf cuts.
Position over a pair of handle facets as shown
offset slightly at sides and bottom from tube
edges or bends, and glue in place.
Here is the completed pole.


  1. Love this, ive been waiting for someone to make a fishing rod and wow you have created an absolutely awesome one.

  2. Hope it does what you were dreaming it might.