Egg Treat Tote Place Card

 

Add a sweet spark to springtime settings, 

or tuck one into an Easter basket. 

You’ll probably find many useful situations for 

this one-piece egg shaped treat tote. 

Tapered side two-segment boxing folds inward, 

jigsaw-knob center edges are fit and taped 

together, then minimal glue or two-sided tape holds 

front and back walls in place to form the container 

for wrapped candy or cookie, loose sweets. 

Thread and tie ribbon or twine through 

punch holes as accent closure – 

choose the version with holes 

that match your ribbon. 

To direct guests at your Easter brunch or 

party table, add the wavy band with penned 

or “print & cut” guest name to identify 

seating arrangements. 

Tote measures approx. 3.5” tall x 2.5” wide 

x 1” deep at base when fully assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify the two shapes:

large one-piece egg tote hull

(select desired hole size - cut 1)

optional personalizing name wavy band

1. Bend hull shape back on all perforation lines

for front, back & bottom panels, side boxing

and tabs.

3. Bend the boxing up and inward as

the boxing side walls/tabs are also bend

inward to be parallel to egg front and back.

4. Push each side inward until the puzzle

knobs align and fit together, which will align

the straight-across edges; then . . .

. . . secure with a small piece of cello tape.

5. Bend the egg-shaped front and back panels

up into position to touch the puzzle knob sides

of the boxing configuration, and attach in place. 

Reach fingers into compartment to provide 

press-against resistance. 

The model is showing temp double sided tape 

being used, with a small piece placed across 

boxing wall (again) prior to bending up walls. 

Using tape like this makes it possible to carefully 

un-assemble after one use, flatten and store 

in a file folder, for instance, until needed again.

6. Add desired contents, then

thread ribbon (or twine, etc.) through aligned

punch holes and tie neat knot and bow

as desired. 

7. For personalized dining place card version,

consider cutting the wavy name tag,

ink-penning by hand, using "print & cut" methods

to add each guest's name. This may be most

easy completed while hull is flat, but can also

be added one completed.

Here are the two completed versions

shown as models (both have larger holes).

Bunny Block Comical 3D Figure

 

Cut your card stock weight paper to create 

separate chunky components for head, body, ears, feet, 

nose and tummy. Assemble these together to build 

this whimsical shelf-sitting critter to add to your spring 

and Easter decor. Components are composed of 

LID and BASE halves that fit and are glued snuggly 

together to resemble cut wood shapes. 

Nose and tummy are one sided and tab-fit inside 

cut outs on lid “faceplate” overlay shapes. 

Curved edges are created by fitting shaped panel inside 

its corresponding boxing shape, with a “cosmetic” overlay 

panel to conceal assembly tabs. This double-wall 

construction makes the bunny extra strong for 

repeat display for many seasons. 

Position and attach forms together, body and head 

stacked with square post (wrapped 1/4” dowel) 

inserted for strength & stability. 

Place metal washers or pellet weights inside body box 

for extra stability. Add a bow around its neck, 

and before long, this playful bunny will spread cheer. 

Figure measures approx. 8.75” wide x 

10.5” tall (including ears) x 2.5” deep when 

fully assembled. 

(Requires 12x12 cutting mat and card stock 

for longest shapes; when cut as sample is colored, 

main structures use all or parts of (6) 12x12 sheets.)

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

(each page of shapes has it's own letters for ID)

A head LID front panel   B head LID front overlay

C two-part head LID boxing strip

D head BASE back panel  E head BASE overlay

F two-part head BASE boxing strip

G top-of-head post opening cover patch

H face features: eyes overlays, pupil inlays,

eyebrow overlays

I nose bump-out front panel, boxing strip, overlay

J collar stack for head BASE bottom post opening

J post collar stacks for body (2 sets)

K square post

L body LID front panel  M body LID overlay

N body LID two-part boxing strips

(with body BASE two-part boxing strips below)

O body BASE back panel  P body BASE overlay

Q tummy bump-out front panel   R tummy boxing

S tummy bottom boxing strip   T tummy front panel

A right ear LID front panel   B right ear LID overlay

C right ear LID boxing strip

D right ear BASE back panel

E right ear BASE overlay  F front panel accent

G right ear BASE boxing strip

H & M ear interior support triangle strip

I left ear LID front panel   J left ear LID overlay

K front panel accent   L left ear LID boxing strip

N left ear BASE back panel

O left ear BASE overlay  

P left ear BASE boxing strip

Foot/Paw "Box" assembly: pair of "reversed" units:

A front LID panel   B LID boxing strip

C LID overlay panel with pad cut outs

D accent shapes to fill in cut outs

E BASE back overlay

F BASE back panel

G boxing strip  H interior support strip

A Head interior support box

B Body interior support box

2. To aid with assembly, get to know the symbols system.

For instance, head boxing strips shown here include

the circle (cut out) symbol showing which boxing strips

should be joined to complete the head boxing.

These are often located at the end boxing tab,

and in the closest top/bottom flange or tab of

the opposite strip to be joined.

Single symbols show the strips will join to

the LID; double symbols indicate BASE strips.

3. As more preliminary information, NOTE that

boxes for head, body, ears, paws are composed of

LID and BASE. LID assembly for any of these includes

the front panel to which boxing is attached,

plus an overlay which often includes cut outs for

nose (as shown here) or tummy.

BASE includes back panel to which boxing is

attached (this head panel includes the one "bite"

half-circle cut out along bottom edge) and a cut-in

letter such as the 'B' indicating this is BASE.

The BASE back overlay has no identifying marks

since any would show in the finished surface.

4. Preliminary prep: prepare the 3 or 4 center

post collar stacks that will help stabilize the head

and body by stacking and gluing together 4 collar

shapes, taking care that interior square window

edges align as precisely as possible. 

Press each stack under a heavy flat weight

until completely dry, for a minimum of several

hours or overnight.

HEAD

5. Prepare the head LID boxing strips by adding

back curl to the multi-tab section which indicates

the boxing will follow the curve of the head panel.

Use a narrow dowel or the barrel of a standard

round pen as shown, drawn along the backside

of strip with thumb pressure, similar to curling ribbon.

Make a couple of passes to replicate the curved shape

of the head panel.

NOTE where the straight long plain section flange

shows where the panel has a straight, non-curved edge,

and leave this portion uncurled. 

6. Bend the multiple tabs and plain flange tabs back,

as well as the end tabs.

7. Align the off-center seam, overlap the straight 2-segment

edge across the opposite two-part tab . . .

adjust to ensure top and bottom edges are continuous 

across the joining strips, then join the seam.

8. Repeat the process for the bottom seam.

Bend upper edge tabs inward to 90 degrees.

9. Identify the front LID panel with nose cut out

and orient it with narrow end toward top so that

it imitates the boxing "ring". Then . . .

. . . invert both so that panel is face down and

strip unit is tabs down.

Apply adhesive to the backside of the tabs all around.

Insert the panel (still face down) . . .

. . . and align bottom straight segment edge of panel

with the straight bottom segment of strip, taking care

that the panel corners tuck into the corresponding

corners of the boxing. 

Push the panel inward until it 

snugly fits inside the ring. Quickly work to make any 

slight adjustments for alignment between the two. Then . . .

. . . apply fingertip pressure all around until ALL

tabs and flanges are completely attached in place.

Check for attachment, then allow to dry.

10. Repeat Step 9 for the head BASE.

(NOTE that this process described in Steps 9-10 is

used for all the LID/BASE boxes in this project.)

11. Prepare the head overlay shape by adding

cheek highlighting, positioning and adding

eyebrows where partial cuts show location.

Retain eyes and pupils for Step. 13.

12. Position the head "face" overlay onto front of

the prepared LID, adjust for precise alignment

all around, then adhere in place. HINT: it will help

to invert the assembly face-down onto the work surface

to apply fingertip pressure to help with adherence.

Also consider adding small weights inside the LID

to help the panel remail smooth and un-warped

while glue dries. (See Step 44 with paw for an idea.)

13. Position and attach the eyes into the eye cut outs,

pupils into sockets.

NOSE

14. Prepare the nose boxing strip (marked with

'N' in a tab) in similar way to head, except . . .

. . . the end tab is NOT bent back, in order to preserve

the rounded nature of the 3D nose.

Instead, simply overlap the opposite straight edge

to the perforation guide marks at tab, adjust

and glue the seam.

15. Continue with the usual process, inserting

the nose panel face down from back of strip ring,

orient the shape so that the seam is at the center

bottom, and narrow tabs sequence at each side.

Press around the panel to ensure tab attachment.

16. At bottom edge, bend the tabs outward.

Position and attach the nose front panel onto box

and press or weight in place until secure.

17. Insert the nose through the nose window

of the head front LID, and push through completely

until the tabs bend catches the LID edge.

Glue tabs in place to inside of head LID.

EARS

18. Complete preliminary prep by positioning the inner

ear accent, centered over the ear overlay, and

attach in place.

Also prepare the interior support strip by bending at

perforations to form the triangle, with top and bottom

edge tabs bent outward.

Prepare and join the triangle seam.

19. Become familiar with the RIGHT and LEFT ears,

which are different from each other (parts are NOT

interchangeable), and the ways to identify them as

L & R, LID and BASE. (Apologies: the letter symbol

labeling got a bit mixed up in the final cut file.)

Both ear front LID panels are marked with 'R' but you

can find the tiny 'L' for left and 'R' for right in the bottom

end tabs. Likewise, both ear back BASE panels are

marked with 'L' but the ID that will matter is the 'L' and

'R' in the bottom tabs. In addition, the BASE panels have

the double "bite" semi-circle cuts at the tab edge as shown.

LIDS are straight.

BASES have bites.

The boxing strips likewise have tiny 'R' or 'L' symbols

in the end tabs, and the BASE boxing has the dbl bite.

20. Add back curl to the boxing in the usual way,

but then also add . . .

. . . tight curl at the 'center' where the narrow tabs

are, using the pen or dowel tool to roll the strip.

21. Locate the non-tabbed boxing strip long tab

near one bottom edge, and the corresponding

straight edge of the ear panel. 

22. Bend the strip tabs inward. Invert the shapes . . .

. . . then add glue to the backside of the tabs,

align the first strip end's tab bend at panel lower edge

tab perf line, tuck the panel edge snugly into 

the perf bend to shape the boxing around the panel.

Apply pressure as the joining progresses until . . .

. . . the final tab perforation aligns with the panel

bottom end tab perf line. Release and adjust if the strip 

seems too long or too short.

The boxing may tend to curve outward at the top sides,

so push inward and apply pressure all along edges

to set the panel to boxing strip seam.

23. Repeat the boxing-to-panel process for

remaining BASEs and LID panels. NOTE that

BASE boxing strips do not have bottom tabs,

so ends are lined up with panel end tab edges.

24. For BASES, position, adjust and attach 

the plain camouflaging panels. Watch to make sure

the straight bottom edge does not interfere with

the bending outward of bottom flange tab.

25. For LIDS, position, adjust and attach the panels

with inner ear accents.

26. Position the interior support inside the BASE

for the coordinated LID and BASE pair, gluing

the tab(s) to the backside of the panel.

27. Add glue to the remaining support triangle tab(s),

outside surface of BASE, then "close" the ear . . .

. . . with LID edges on the outside of the BASE structure. 

Adjust for accurate fit with bottom boxing edges

aligned, then add pressure to outer edges to join.

28. Repeat for the other ear.

29. To attach the ears to head, orient ear correctly

with accent inner ear toward front, insert end tabs

into opening in head boxing and push into place until

the tabs are fully through to inside.

On the inside, apply glue behind tabs, then press

into place to join securely in place.

BODY

30. Follow the same assembly procedures for

the body "box" to join boxing strips . . .

. . . fit panels inside, etc.

31. Prepare the tummy insert in similar way,

with curved boxing upper strip attaching . . .

. . . to straight bottom segment at ends with seams.

Position and attach tummy front panel within boxing.

Position and attach the overlay front panel.

32. Next add glue to the face surfaces of tummy

tabs, position and attach the body LID front

overlay so that . . .

. . . inner curved edge aligns at front bottom edges 

and around curve of  bump-out.

Apply fingertip pressure all around until

thoroughly secure in place.

33. Prepare the four-segment interior support in much

the same way as for the ear interior supports,

joining end seam, bending tabs outward, etc.

34. Position the support with longest base wall touching

centered, and attaching to tummy bump out 

bottom boxing, then adding glue and attaching

the other tab(s) to backside of tummy wall.

35. Position the body accent over the top LID front,

adjust for edge alignment, and attach in place.

MORE INTERIOR SUPPORTS

36. Prepare the body interior post support box

by bending back at perforations for walls,

flanges, tabs and flap.

37. Invert the box shape face down then position

a collar stack at each post square hole, precisely

align, then glue in place. Continue assembly

when both are secure.

38. Bend front, back and side walls into place

to form the box. If desired, pause to prepare . . .

. . . and insert selected style of weights, and

secure in place. For sample, stacks of 1" metal

washers are glued together, then positioned at

"floor" panel on each end, keeping post hole unblocked.

Close the box top and secure tabs and flanges.

38. Position the box, centered, along bottom

of body BASE box, and attach bottom and

back panels with glue.  NOTE:  it is vital that

the box is aligned correctly, so take care that

box and BASE's post openings align.

39. Close the body LID and BASE assemblies . . .

. . . fully, then glue the walls together all around.

Take care that top (narrow) end post holes align.

40. For the head interior support box,

follow similar steps (36-39) to prepare shape,

attach collars in place . . .

. . . form shape into a box and join side seams . . .

. . . close and secure lid. Position at bottom of 

head BASE taking care that post holes align.

41. Insert head BASE into LID, adjust and

join with glue between walls.

PAW FEET

42. Complete 1 left paw and 1 right paw.

Follow LID and BASE assembly procedures

to prepare the boxing strips, joining straight

segment with curved length at end seam.

Insert front and back panels into LID and BASE

boxing "rings" as appropriate, matching the straight

bottom edge and boxing first, then . . .

. . . press the panel into place, allowing the boxing

to be shaped to fit.

43. Prepare triangle interior support, then . . .

. . . position and attach into paw BASE.

44. Position and attach back panel onto BASE,

front 'pad' panel onto LID, and attach in place.

Position and attach pad shapes into

corresponding recess openings.

 HINT: to help add weight to the pad LID and BASE

(as well as other box halves in this project), 

consider adding uniform shapes such as these thread

spools inside the inverted paw assembly, then placing

a reasonable weight on top of these to press

together the layers of the glue up.

45. Position, slide together and join each paw pair.

FINISHING

46. Prepare the post wrap tube by bending

back on all long perforations and end tabs.

47. Form the shape into a square tube by overlapping

the straight edge across the long flange that has

angled ends, aligning edge with flange perf line.

and gluing seam. 

Apply pressure all along, running fingertips across the full 

surface until secure. NOTE that this may be most

easily accomplished with a long length of dowel in place.

At end, bend tabs inward, top down, adjust to

square, and glue in place.

48. Insert the dowel and slide end fully in until it

stops at the end cap. Mark the tube length onto

the dowel, then remove and cut to length at line.

Reinsert dowel and glue inside tube.

49. Complete final assembly by adding dab of glue

(such as Fabri-Tack) at bottom end of tube, then

inserting it through body top hole, fishing it around

inside to find interior box top hole, then continuing

to push inward until it seats into the bottom collar.

Apply pressure and hold in place until secure.

50. Apply glue to the body top panel, then . . .

. . . slide head onto post, fishing around until it

exits top interior support box hole, and then

through to top of head hole. 

NOTE that the post has intentionally be drafted to be

 slightly shorter than needed, so that it does not 

extend through. If possible add glue to help it stay.

51. Bend the top cover slightly at perf lines,

then add glue and position, attach on head top.

52. Prepare to attach the paw feet by first chalk

(or other temp pencil) marking the approx. center

of the bottom paw box flat panel.

Position the corresponding outward-leaning paw box

near the side edge of body . . .

. . . using the chalk mark to align at the tummy end.

Take note or lightly mark where paw overlaps tummy.

 Add quick-grab glue like Fabri-Tack within the marks

on paw backside, then reposition and hold until secure.

Repeat the process for the other paw foot.

Comical bunny figure is now assembled.

Add ribbon around neck to conceal seam,

and tie neat bow with streamers.