Castle Tower 3D Box

Dimensional six-sided tower has tapered center column 

with brick mortar overlays, faceted base, 

crenelated rampart top with mini bad accents, 

upper & lower architectural "bead" details. 

Base tray has finger tabs for easy removal 

so castle can be used as a gift box. 

Measures approx. 6.75" tall x 3.25" deep x 3.875" wide. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes.
A main tower panels (6)
B tower brick overlays (3 ea. of window, plain)
C tower lower stabilizer hex
D base riser (2)   E base tray
F crenelation base
G crenelation fold-over shapes (6)
H upper tower opening cover
I upper "bead" shapes (2)
J lower "bead" shapes (2) 
Not shown: brick overlay window contrast and
optional crenelation brad over strips

2. Prepare the main tower shapes by bending upper

and lower sections forward slightly, side tabs back.

3. Begin joining tower panels by overlapping

straight side of on panel over the corresponding

tab to perforation line, adjusting top and bottom

of sections, and gluing center segment in place . . 

. . . adjusting and gluing top segment . . .

. . . then adjusting and gluing bottom segment

in place.

4. Join the third section in place in the same manner,

then continue joining panels in place until

all 6 are joined into one assembly.

5. Prepare the window style brick overlay

by gluing the edges of the contrast

window under shape behind the window opening.

NOTE: you may design your rook tower with

all window shapes or all plain shapes as desired.

6. Position and attach each brick overlay
onto one tower section, between upper and lower
slots, and between side perforation or straight edges.

7. Form the tower assembly into a tube to bring
the straight side edge to overlap the opposite
perforation, then join the center, upper and
lower portions as in step 3.

8. Prepare the base riser shapes by bending

back on all perforation lines and tabs.

9. Join the two shapes end to end.

10. Complete the angle seams by bending two
adjacent upper panels toward the center
to bring the straight side edge to overlap the adjacent
tab perforation line, and glue in place.
Complete for all "available" angle seams.

11. Form the riser into a ring to bring the remaining
side edge and tab together to join.
Also join the angle seam.

12. Insert the castle tower up through the bottom

of the riser ring . . .

. . . and push down into position fully.
During this process, insert the riser
interior tabs into the bottom tower slots.
(This for me was the most time-consumer part
of the assembly. It required using a blade tool
like a spatula to help tuck one tab inside, and
glue in place, before working to insert
the remaining tabs.)

13. Prepare the base tray by bending back on
all perforation and tab lines.
14. Form the tray by bending sides back/upward
to bring straight edge to overlap adjacent perforation
line, and glue in place.

15. Prepare the crenelation base shape in a similar

manner to the tray shape in step 15 above.

16. Insert the top scallop tab end of tower

through the crenelation base opening to the

position where tab perfs line up with straight edge.

Bend tabs back and attach to the 'ledge'
of the crenelation shape.

17. Prepare the fold over shapes by bending back

at both perf lines to create a top surface.

18. Position one end over the crenelation edge,

line up the punch circles, and glue in place.

(Bottom straight edge should line up the crenellation

base perf line.)

Bend the back toward the inside of the

tower to line up the bottom and punch circles,

and glue in place.

20. Prepare all bead shapes by bending back on all

perforation lines.

21. Join the upper 'bead' shapes end to end

by overlapping the straight end edge over

the opposite tab perf line.

Also join the lower 'bead' shapes in similar manner.

22. Insert the tabs into the upper and lower

slots for one of the bead segments.

On the inside of the tower, bend the tabs away

from the 'bead' position, and glue in place.

23. Position and insert the tabs for the second
segment, and follow same procedure to 
attach tabs inside tower interior.

As subsequent segments are positioned,

NOTE that the left edge should overlap

the previous ends to form a miter seam line.

Apply a dab of glue under the miter overlap

to help them attach.

24. Continue positioning and attaching beads

all around, until the final seam remains.

Push the end tab under the adjacent segment,

while at the same time allowing miter end

overlap as described above here.

Glue in place.

25. Repeat the same process to position and

attach the bottom bead in place.

It may be helpful to use a flat tool such as
the spatula shown here, to help guide the
"dog ears" of the left segment miter tabs
under the corresponding edges of the first
segment attached.

26. Apply glue to the crenelation base ledge,
then position the hexagon cover over the opening . . .

. . . and push into place against the ledge
and apply finger or tool pressure around the edge
to ensure attachment.

 27. Apply glue to the crenelation base ledge,
then position the hexagon cover over the opening . . .

. . . and push into place against the ledge
and apply finger or tool pressure around the edge
to ensure attachment.

28. Prepare the bottom tower stabilizer hex

by bending the edge tabs upward.

29. Position the stabilizer into the bottom opening

of the tower bottom, and . . .

. . .insert until the hex and

tower edges line up as closely as possible.

Pinch the layered edges in place to secure adhesive.

30. Insert the base tray into the bottom of the tower . . .

. . . then attach decorative contrast brads as desired.

Use cover strips to hide brad prongs on the inside

as desired.

Here is the finished tower.

Castle tower chess box has a companion

Knight chess box design available, too.

Folk Heart Basket Assembly

Spaced staves with overlaid cross bands  

give this 3d container the charm of a vintage bushel basket. 

Petal top ends (with overlay accents) 

can be bent downward or left upright. 

Layered oval tag with hole-punched heart decoration 

and mini brad accents add finishing touches. 

Basket base decagon and heart "button"

are made with mutli layers to build up thickness.

Finished size is approx. 4.5" tall x 3.25" wide x 3.25" deep. 

Use it as a gift or goodies container:

cello bag 2.75" wide (2.5" gussets) x 9" tall

fits perfectly inside, with enough height

to tie with a ribbon or twine.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A side panel (front: tag hole)

B side panel (back)

C base bottom    D stave petal accents

E base built up decagons (8)

F cross bands (6)

G oval base and overlay   H heart (3)

2. Prepare the side panels by bending each

segment back slightly at perf marks between

each stave and at ends.

Bend (optional) top petals back and attach petal overlays

to the backside (so they will show when bent down)

or on the front (if making the un-bent version).

These panels are shown from the backside.

3. Prepare the basket base by layering and gluing

together the 8 decagon shapes, taking care

to align all cut edges as precisely as possible.

HINT: it may be helpful to use a flat weight

as the base is built up and while adhesive dries.

4. Prepare the base shape by bending the spokes

at the perforation marks.

5. Position and attach the built up base

at the center, positioning the base straight edges

under each spoke.

6. Begin to attach one of the side panels 

to the base spokes by locating and overlapping

one right end stave end with punch hole

over a base spoke with corresponding punch hole.

Stave bottom straight edge should overlap

to the perforation line, and holes line up.

7. Continue to line up each stave lower edge

with the next spoke in sequence, overlapping

straight edge to the first segment perforation line,

and centering the stave with its defining side

perforation bends over the base upper end, until . . .

. . . all of the staves of first side panel are attached.

8. Join the second side panel to the first

by overlapping the hole-punched right end

of added panel over extensions of first panel.

NOTE that extensions have 'half hole' end shaping

to assist with proper positioning behind the

punch holes of the added panel. 

9. Continue attaching the bottom edges

of staves to base spokes in the same manner

as in previous steps, until . . .

. . . the final joint is completed.

10. Overlap the first panel's right straight edge

over the second panel's extensions,

align punch holes over half-hole shaping,

and attach.

11. Prepare the cross band shapes by bending

back at vertical perforation marks.

12. Position the first band so that punch holes

line up over corresponding holes in basket sides,

and perf bends line up at angles between staves.

Glue in place.

13. Position second band so that end punch holes

line up over the holes of previous band,

perf marks at angles, etc., Glue in place.

Repeat to attach the remaining pairs of

bands at center and bottom positions on basket.

14. Attach mini brad accents at side punch holes.

15. Prepare the heart "button" by carefully

layering the 3 heart shapes so that punch holes

and cut edges line up as exactly as possible.

16. Layer the oval tag shapes, then

position and attach the heart button.

17. Position the tag so that the hang punch hole

line up with the remaining punch hole on the

side stave of the front panel,

and attach, then add mini brad accent.

Here is the completed folk heart basket.