Thankful Be Flourish Phrase

 

Create a seasonal or inspirational plaque or wall art by 

cutting this design from adhesive vinyl. 

Or use as a cutting template for fabric appliqué to add to 

Thanksgiving season decor. 

Flourished  design opens at measurement of 11x7, 

but can be expanded for larger design needs. 

(Take care if reducing). 

PILLOW PROJECT DESCRIPTION

INTRO:  The pillow featured in this post was assembled

as fusible web and machine satin stitched applique.

Years ago, the Silhouette America company touted

their die cutter as an aid to actually cutting out

the fabric for a project like this. Sadly, this use of

the Cameo system was not deemed successful by

most fabric crafters. However, the system CAN cut

fusible web alone, which can then be applied to fabric

of almost any weight where it can be then be cut out

at the still-attached paper backing edge, acting as

the de facto cutting template. The product used for

this pillow project was Wonder Under 

"machine stitch-able" fusible web.

1. Create a reverse image of the "Thankful Be" flourished

word art, then re-size as needed. For the pillow project

featured, the design size was 13x8.125 (requiring

a 12x24 cutting mat. This was the set up ready

to send to Cameo.

2. A section of fusible web was cut to size with 

approx. 1" extra margins all around, positioned on

the oversize cutting mat appropriately, then cut out

using a relatively new blade, on "Patterned Paper"

material selection, with blade at 2.

3. Once cut, the excess was "weeded" from the mat,

and then the flourished word art carefully removed,

including retaining of the stem of the Cap 'T' and

the separate 'e'.

3. On the press board, the selected lettering fabric

was placed face down and then the fusing positioned

as desired. I positioned mine so that the straight grain

followed the X/Y grid axis that would have appeared

on my cutting mat screen in the software 

prior to sending to the cutter.

Follow manufacturer's instructions for the fusing product

to press and fuse with appropriately hot iron.

4. Hand cut out at the paper edge of fused design.

5. Carefully peel away the paper backing, then . . .

. . . take time to carefully position -- centered -- onto

the pillow front fabric face side. Once it is arranged,

including the 'T' and 'e' separate shapes,

use hot iron to thoroughly fuse in place.

6. Run a test, or use previous knowledge to set up

satin stitch zigzag stitching (or other desired over-edge)

on sewing machine. If desired, place an appropriately-

sized panel of "Tear Away" applique stabilizer behind

the applique area and pin in place until stitching

will hold it sufficiently. Over-edge ALL raw edges of

the fused flourish design. Neatly trim cut tails, or

better still, pull threads to backside and trim at 

1/2" long or tie off.

7. Once the overedging is complete, finish the pillow

assembly.

Frame Phrases for Thanksgiving Season

Build one of these shelf-sitting plaques from cardstock featuring 

season of thankfulness message, sturdy enough to store 

and display season after season. 

Choose from "thankful & blessed", "gather together", 

or "count your blessings".

 Lower case imitation vintage typewriter letters 

(general size .875 tall) are placed over 

background-matched top-down positioning guide. 

Or cut the letters from vinyl to align with bottom corner 

registration marks and apply instead. 

Layered main panel fits inside the four-component 

wrap-around frame. Add the layered-for-thickness 

charm as an accent. Optional overlays such as

the corrugated card stock shown for this set

can stylize or dress it up.

Projects each measure approx. 10” long x 4 tall x 1.5” deep 

when fully assembled. 

Requires 12x12 cutting capacity and stock. 

NOTE about cardstock surfaces and vinyl transfer:

test your main panel stock choice to see if

the transfer (sticky) paper will pull off the surface

and deface it during the vinyl lettering application

process. Some papers will work, while others will

deface terribly. Hard smooth surfaces may work best.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and use the cut file download

to cut the shapes:

A front panel (cut 3 to layer for strength

B letters positioning panel cut to MATCH front panel

for invisibility (NOTE that this shape

was altered to be top down in final cut file)

C individual letters and symbol

D side wrap over walls (2)

E top, bottom wrap over walls (2)

F pumpkin charm extra backs to layer (3-4)

G contrast layer,  H front contour overlay

I opt. side corrugated overlay with rims (2 ea.)

J opt. top, bottom corrugated overlay

with rims (2 ea.)

2. Position and glue each individual letter onto

the matching edge extension of the positioning

guide. NOTE that the guide in final cut file is opposite

of the shape shown here - top-down - but the process

will be the same.

3. Layer and attach the front panel layers with all

edges precisely aligned. Also . . .

. . . position the lettering panel on top of the front panel

stack (it will be aligned along TOP and UPPER SIDES

of the main front panel stack). Then . . .

. . . immediately press flat under a heavy weight

such as a large book volume, possibly with other

heavy objects on top, and leave for several hours

or overnight. This will help the glued-up panel to

dry flat, minimizing warping or curling.

4. Vinyl cut out lettering phrase can be substituted

if preferred. To do that, prepare, cut, weed and

transfer letters to transfer tape in the usual manner,

including the lower corner registration marks.

(NOTE that the transfer clear adhesive sheet will likely

damage the front panel paper as the stickiness grabs

the cardstock fibers. See an alternative for using

vinyl letters in step 4A below.)

Position the vinyl elements over the front panel

so that the registration marks are positioned

at the panel lower corners, as shown here.

Then complete the transfer of letters to the panel.

4A. As a hybrid technique which combines the top-down

letter positioning guides from Step 2 above, cut

the letter guide panel to match the plain front panel,

then cut the letters only (omit the corner registrations)

from black vinyl - using only a fraction of the vinyl . . .

. . . to add the letters to the panel.

WALL PANELS PREP

5. Prepare the wall shapes by bending back on all

long perforation lines, except bottom flange

which is bent forward. 

6. Bend the top edge multiple perforation lines

 toward the backside of wall into a box form, then . . .

. . . tighten the angular roll to be close to the wall.

Apply adhesive along the end segment, then . . .

. . . re-roll tightly and press the glue-prep edge into

position to attach to the wall backside. Work to snug

the rim roll snugly into position, keeping the bend

edges squared up, and the vertical inner and outer

rim walls perpendicular to the main wall. 

One way to do this is to use a right angle cut block 

(or equiv.) to press up against innermost wall.

Brace and leave in place until the rim is dried and

fully attached. If available, consider placing a second

block against the outer wall as well.

Another helpful aid is a dowel or rod that can fit

through the rim tunnel, that can assist to apply

pressure along the actual flange being glued.

If you need to leave the set up to dry, consider

placing weights of some kind on each exposed 

end of dowel to apply the pressure needed.

7. Prepare the longer top and bottom wall in similar

manner to side walls as shown in step 5. Also bend

the end tabs back to a right angle.

FRAME ASSEMBLY

8. Position one side wall and one top or bottom wall

end to end . . .

. . . so that straight side wall edge overlaps the end

tabs to perforation line . . .

. . . (now shown face up) and adjust for top to

bottom alignment, then join the seam.

NOTE that the smaller tab portion should fit into

the rim tube and be attached there.

9. Prepare the top and bottom walls rolled rim

in the same manner as for the side walls (step 6).

10. Form the walls assembly into its squared up

configuration by bending at the corner seam,

taking care that the miter-cut rim ends wrap over

side rim ends, both on the top surface shown here . . .

. . . and on the bottom/inside as shown here.

Unbend at corner slightly to apply a small dab at

overlapped corner of top/bottom wall rim, then

re-form into 'L' formation. Immediately find a way

to ensure that the corner is as precisely a right-angle

corner as possible. One way . . .

. . . to do this is to use a large square-cut block or plank

tucked into the inner corner, then press walls along

plank sides and prop or brace in place until glue dries.

Repeat for second short/long wall section unit.

11. Position and join remaining corner seams,

taking care to tuck the small tab into the rim tube.

If possible, find a way to brace the assemble to

achieve the desired right angles at these corners

as was done for first corners in the sequence.

13. Invert the frame assembly face down, bend

the wall extensions slightly out of the way, then

apply glue to the rim underside surfaces.

Slip the front panel, face down into the opening

and down onto the rim back surface and apply

pressure to attach in place.

14. Apply glue to the backside of the top/bottom

end flange, then carefully bend back to be

perpendicular to the panel. Use a square block

to help achieve the desired perpendicular position,

then hold or brace in place until securely attached.

Repeat for the opposite long wall.

15. Repeat the process to bend, adjust and attach

the two side walls in the same manner.

OPT. CHARM PREPARATION & FINISHING

16. Layer and attach the contours front overlay

onto the contrast (front) pumpkin, then position

and attach the build-up back layers behind,

taking care to align all cut edges as precisely

as possible. Immediately . . .

. . . press the stack under a heavy flat weight, such as

this fabric-wrapped re-purposed weight machine bar.

Allow to dry completely while pressed.

17. Tie with contrast twine. Position and attach

at upper corner, or as desired.

18. If desired, use templates to cut overlay sides,

 top & bottom, and rim-top shapes from a decorative

overlay paper such as this corrugated kraft board.

NOTE that it may be helpful to leave the lengths

somewhat over-long and trim to size to be even

with frame wall ends, rim edges and miter corners, etc.

to accommodate any extra overlay material thickness.

19. Attach the overlay shapes (and trim to size

as needed), then repeat for rim shapes.

Here is the completed "thankful & blessed" frame.

Other frames for other holidays or sayings may

also be available.

Ghost 3D Box with Stick Arms

Slightly kooky Halloween ghost figure box is composed 

of “tombstone” LID that fits snugly over shorter BASE. 

Angular striped hat rests on head top, with med. 

gauge craft wire crazy hair spirals. 

Arms are composed of .125” diam. paper-wrapped 

wood dowels, with a miniature pumpkin “sack” 

dangling from one. 

Design can function as a joined decoration, 

or with LID and BASE detachable to fill as 

a shallow treat box. 

Finished size is approx. 4.25” wide (incl. arm sticks) 

x 6.25” tall (incl. hat) x 1.75 deep when

fully assembled and closed.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A body front panel

B body front contour panel with smile & eye openings

C contrast eye & smile inserts

D face contour panel

E body back panel with bottom edge notch

F & G body sides boxing strips

H wire reinforcement strips to stack (2 sets of

4 each single and 2-hole strips)

I interior arm stick brace boxes (2)

J brace box wall thickeners (2 sets of 3)

K arm stick wrap strips with end circle covers (2 sets)

L bottom compartment insert

M hat crown   N crown stripe overlays (2)

O hat brim top layer  P brim build up layers (7)

Q1 - Q8 pumpkin "sack" layers (see step 2 below)

Also shown are wire spiral "curls" (6)

NOTE that the body front and back panels can be

distinguished from each other by locating

the bottom "notch" cut from the back.

2. For pumpkin sack, cut the following layer 

quantities (l to r) to be stacked in order: 

front layer with second cut-out

layer and contrast insert - 1 ea.;

whole shapes - 3; handle; whole shape - 1;

compartment 'U' shapes - 4; whole - 1;

handle; whole shapes for back - 4

3. Obtain a narrow gauge moderately soft craft wire

to create the "curls". The wire should fit through

the receptacle holes cut into the body boxing as

shown here. For the sample, a physical gauge was

measured at .5" for 14 wire widths/diam. (side by side).

PREPARATION AND GLUE UP

4. Layer one by one the hat brim stack shapes and

attach together, taking care to align all outer cut edges

as precisely as possible.

Immediately place under a heavy flat shape such as

this fabric-covered repurposed weight machine bar,

and allow to be pressed until liquid glue is completely

dried. This may require several hours or overnight.

Pressing will help minimize or prevent warping or

curling when using liquid glue.

5. Layer and attach the arm stick brace box

reinforcement strips in similar manner, into

2 sets of 3 each, taking care to align all cut edges,

especially the stick insertion holes. Press until dry.

6. Prepare the body side boxing strips by bending

back on all cross perforation lines and side edge tabs.

7. Layer and attach the wire reinforcement mini strips

into stacks of 4 each, to yield 2 stacks that have

single holes, and 2 stacks that have 2 holes.

Press with weight until dry.

8. On the backside of each of the boxing strips,

position the corresponding wire stack over

punched segment, taking care that holes line up

precisely. Position and attach both one and two hole

stacks for each boxing strip; press until dry.

9. Complete the body side boxing assembly by

positioning and joining the top head seam,

overlapping the straight end edge across the opposite

tab, adjust for top-to-bottom alignment at seam edge,

then attach. NOTE that the tiny arrowhead symbol

on end tabs will act as guide to which ends are joined.

10. Position the body contour shape on top of

the front body panel, centered and with bottom edges

aligned.

11. Insert and glue the contrast shapes into cut outs,

then position and attach the face panel over the top of

the assembly, centered and with bottom edges aligned.

BODY ASSEMBLY

12. Beginning with back panel, position the top segment

edge at "1" symbol tab, overlap body straight edge across

boxing tab to perf line, adjust for alignment, then attach.

13. Bend the first tab of one side down into position

to align panel edge with boxing tab perf line,

adjust and glue in place.

14. Repeat the step 13 process to position and join

two more segments of the seam in the same manner

for 3 segments total.

15. Move to the opposite side of panel and complete

the positioning and joining of 3 segments on

that side.

16. Prepare the brace boxes by bending back on

all perforation lines for panels and tabs.

17. Position the interior stack (see step 5) on

backside of box shape so that the mostly-centered

holes line up. Also check that stack edges will NOT

interfere with side or end perfs bending.

NOTE that the "arrow" notch should be nearest

the square end box panel - this is the BOTTOM end.

18. Form the shape into a box, with sides inward,

flanges inward, bottom end inward and top end

wrapped upward. Then . . .

. . . glue seams.

Bend bottom end tabs inward, square end down

and glue in place to complete box.

(Complete second box in same manner.)

19. Prepare to glue the brace box to the inside

surface of body boxing by identifying the "centered"

hole side - which will be aligned and joined to

the boxing wall, and . . .

. . . and the opposite "lower" end hole which will

help secure the stick arm in its angled position.

NOTE that the uncentered hole will be

toward bottom of body.

Apply glue to the "centered" hole side of brace,

then position, align holes, adjust for centering,

and attach in place.

NOTE that it will be helpful to view the boxing

from face side in order to see if hole edges

are accurately aligned.

Repeat for the second body side and brace.

HAIR CURLS PREPARATION

20. Cut 6 wire lengths of 7" each.

Prepare curls by using uncut arms dowel as 

wrapping form. Leave approx. .75"

insertion end (shown at left here), then wrap

the wire around form for 8-9 wraps. Cut excess.

Gently "stretch" the wire spiral so that it measures

approx. 2" between first and final twist as shown.

Repeat to prepare 6 total hair curls.

21. Insert the straight end of first coil into wire hole

of boxing, then . . .

. . . on inside, use needle nose pliers tool to bend

 the end into a tight twist just behind wall.

Use a dab of hot melt glue to secure the twist end

in place. (This image shows all 3 curls in place.)

22. Repeat the insertion and glue-securing steps

for remaining 2 curls for first side, then repeat

for the second side.

23. Measure and cut the .125" diam wood dowel

into (2) two-inch segments.

24. Use an intermediate diam. rod tool such as this

knitting needle to begin to shape the arm cover strips

into final tight roll. Then . . . 

. . . roll the strip around the dowel to achieve 

nearly-final tight roll form.

25. Apply glue to the inside face of the strip

excluding the end tabs . . .

. . . then place dowel segment inside the "tube",

adjust so that it is flush with non-tab end,

and tightly roll the strip around dowel until paper

is as tightly formed as possible, possibly rolling

between fingers around and around until

this is achieved. Straighten the

exposed paper seam edge if necessary.

NOTE the tube edge should overlap interior

edge to completely hide dowel inside.

Complete second stick arm.

26. Insert the non-tab stick arm end from inside to

outside through brace box holes . . .

. . . until stick is fully through with only tabs

extending beyond brace box. Bend tabs outward

and glue in place.

Repeat for second stick arm.

27. Position the body front panel over front boxing

tabs in manner similar to what was done for back

panel, and complete . . .

. . . the top and first 3 segment seams

on each side of top.

28. Next, complete the remaining seam segments

for both front and back panels.

29. Position and glue the stick-covering end circle

on end of each arm.

HAT ASSEMBLY

30. Prepare the hat crown by bending back on

all perforations for vertical bends, top panel and

tabs, except bend the bottom (narrow) tabs outward.

31. Fold the crown shape to bring the straight edge

to overlap opposite tab to perf line, adjust,

then glue seam. NOTE that the symmetry of

this shape will allow the seam to be aligned at

center or side to complete the seam.

32. At top, bend the tabs inward, top panel down,

adjust to align straight edges with tab perf lines,

then glue in place.

NOTE that to help secure the top edge seams,

it may be helpful to insert a rod-like tool end

into the inverted opening and apply pressure

along the seaming edges inside.

33. Prepare the two stripe shapes by bending back

 on the center perf cuts.

34. Apply glue to the backside of each stripe,

leaving the "sprue" ends free from glue.

Position the first stripe unit with bend at corner edge

of hat crown, adjust top to bottom to center the stripes

over the panel (black/gray stripes should be even),

then press into place.

Next, bend the second half into place on the adjacent

crown panel, keeping stripes parallel to top edges,

and attach in place.

35. When stripes are secure in place, hand-trim

the "sprue" away by cutting precisely along

the hat corner edge.

36. Repeat the process with the second stripe unit,

taking care as first edge and then second are

positioned and attached that stripes line up as

precisely as possible at the trim corner.

37. Insert the narrow end of crown through opening

of brim top layer . . .

. . . then on the underside, bend the tabs outward

and glue in place.

NOTE that it may be helpful to place the brim

underside-down on work surface and apply

prolonged pressure along the crown to secure tabs.

38. Apply glue to the underside of brim top layer,

then position and attach to brim stack unit,

taking care as always that all cut edges are

aligned as precisely as possible.

Apply steady direct pressure all over the brim.

If possible, place heavy objects onto glue-up areas

of brim, snugged up next to the crown and allow

to dry to achieve consistent, flat attachment.

39. Apply glue to the top of the head, then

position the hat, centered in all directions,

and attach in place.

It may be necessary to adjust and bend curls

out of the way.

PUMPKIN SACK ASSEMBLY

40. Assemble the face unit by positioning and

attaching the backside rim shape to back of

face panel, then . . .

. . . inserting the contrast panel into the recess

and attaching in place. Press until dry.

41. Assemble each of the stacks of multiple layers

(see step 2 for quantities). Press until dry.

42. Begin to layer and stack the units, with cut edges

precisely aligned where they match up,

 by attaching the whole stack of 3 behind the front 

unit, first handle shape next . . .

. . . then in sequence the single whole shape,

compartment 'U' stack, single whole, handle #2,

and finally the whole stack of 4.

Press until thoroughly dry.

Here is a view of the completed sack.

FINISHING

44. Prepare the base insert by bending back

on all perforation lines for walls, bottom, tabs.

NOTE that there is a cut-in half-circle tab that

can assist in pulling the insert out of the body.

If you plan to use the box as a container instead

of a glued-closed decoration, break free the curved

edge of the tab at this point and bend on perf line.

45. Bend the sides up to align the two-tab side seam

segments, one by one, then . . .

. . . glue each in place in sequence. 

Complete all 4 seams.

46. Complete ghost by cutting a 1.75" length of wire

for each "hand". Position pumpkin behind one arm

and secure handles together and to arm with

dabs of quick grab glue. Wrap wire through handle

and around stick for 2-3 wraps. Add a dab of glue

to secure wire, if necessary, placing it discretely

behind or under stick arm.

Wrap wire around second arm in similar,

matched manner.

If deemed necessary to blunt wire ends,

apply 1-2 coats of clear nail polish.

47. Position and slide insert into bottom of body . . .

. . . and push up fully into place.

NOTE that the insert is intended to fit snugly.

Here is the completed ghost.