Halloween Count Down Tower for Papercrafting (Tutorial)

Halloween Count Down Tower design that will make this year's haunted holiday

even more fun for the kids and grownups in your household.

Now available from Jodi G. Warner of SnapDragon Snippets 

through the Silhouette America online store.

Finished design shown here (approx. 12" x 47") 

requires Upper Section and Lower Section (sold separately). 

Each day, the magnet-containing bat 

moves up the tower until he finally can fly to the moon for Halloween!

Each of the "delta wing" flight triangles on rectangle bases numbering the days in October

conceals a metal washer disc beneath. 

Bat (10 layers thick) has a neodymium super magnet disc hidden inside

that helps him "stick" in place.

Base squares approx. 11.5" each include positioning markings for washers and rectangles. Four separate sections are mounted on chipboard (black for the sample project) with marked holes drilled or punched through, then turret assemblies, brackets and tooth-cut wall sections are aligned and brads connect all the layers. Put sections together for October,

then disassemble and store for next Halloween. 

CONSTRUCTION

1. Select papers and cut the panels. In the image at right above, the four panels are shown and identified, since three look very similar. Study the left/right circle patterns to match your cutout sheets to the images to avoid confusion.

As each is identified and cut from a 12x12 sheet, mark the backside top edge for identification during construction. Use sticky note to transfer ID to front before mounting.

2. Apply glue to the panel backside, especially around holes and at edges. This is a good instance for using the broad application tip. Center cut panels from side to side on the 12x12 chipboard panels. Also align the Bottom panel upper edge and the Top panel lower edge exactly and upper or lower edges of the chipboard panel respectively. Extra margins of chipboard will then be at the bottom and top of the project. Position remaining 2 panel bottom edges even with bottom edges of chipboard. (Trim excess off a bit later in this process.)

Use a roller of some kind to help get the sheet to be smooth and flat and adhered evenly. A smooth flat board like a Masonite framing backer, cutting board, or foam core sheet can also be used as a press. Place board over large pieces being glued up (panels to chipboard, turrets, bat assembly, etc.), then place one or more free hand weights 5 to 15 lbs. on top of the board and allow weight to keep pieces very flat while glue cures.

3. Use trimming tools (Plexiglas thick ruler, mat and utility blade) to trim excess from TOP and/or BOTTOM of Lower and Middle panels to be even with cut panels.

 4. If you wish - to add to the spooky feeling - distress the edges of each panel. I am using Jim Holtz Distress Ink "vintage photo" color and blender tool with pad, and a polylon non-stick craft pressing sheet as the "palette" and protector in one.

5. Organize the shapes from the file(s), select papers, then cut the groups that are required to complete the design. For instance, all the "delta" triangles for both files (the complete project) can be arranged on the cutting screen and cut from one cutting process session, as can the base rectangles and numbers.

Glue the singles in place aligning lower edges and corners. Multiple units include dash guide marks part way up to help with positioning.

 6. Obtain (31) 3/4" diameter flat washers and one neodymium 18mm super magnet disc. These were purchased from Home Depot, but will be available many other suppliers, including some crafting stores.

7. Place and glue washers into cut out circles. I used Fabri-tack clear adhesive to make sure the washers would stay put.

For more recessed washers and a smoother panel surface, consider marking positions and boring 3/4" dia. channels nearly through, (or clear through) the chipboard, then back with a second piece of chipboard, or cardstock. Glue layers in place, then washers into the recess.

8. Position arrow units in place to conceal washers. Dash guide marks will help position the rectangles. NOTE that arrow and number cutouts for #30, is positioned onto the tooth-cut wall section below the larger (right hand) tower. 

9. Position the numbers next to the triangles. Refer to the online store file thumbnail, or the first image to see how the numbers are positioned in relation to the panel spacing, etc. Shown here is the Upper panel, with the 3-position rectangle at the top. The #30 unit and number digits are placed onto the large tower wall unit bracket later in the process (see Step 14).

10. Use a matching diameter drill bit and power drill to create holes through the chipboard where the bracket attachment holes are at top and/or bottom panel edges. Use a 3/8" bore to punch holes through where the hanging holes are at top panel upper edge.

11. Cut the shapes for the various design units as shown in the next few images.

These are the door and stair parts. Note that the cross beam piece has punch holes for the "nail heads" and a contrast under shape (orange here) that shows through. The same is true for the latch handle.







12. Turrets: NOTE that the two are NOT interchangeable. The "Lower" turret has "L" cut in the base piece that will be hidden when assembled. (Lower is pictured assembled on the right, here.) Not pictured but recommended is a second full shape base piece, which is how the cut file is presented, to be cut from the turret main color (greenish circle pattern, here).

13. Bracket pieces: top (orange), under layer (violet) and reinforcing base piece (black). These ARE interchangeable.

14. Upper large (right) tower: NOTE that the #30 rectangle and number digits are shown here to position over the hole cut out at the lower edge of the tooth-cut wall section.  

The base piece of the large tower must be turned on the diagonal to be cut from a single 12x12 piece of cardstock.

Moon layers are shown here attached to finished project. Back layer is slight contrast for "show through". Front layer has "stitching" mist outlines detail. Triangle frame shape can be cut from card, paper, or double-sided adhesive with added glitter as was done here. Guide marks show triangle corner positions. Place the #31 digit cutouts in the space between mist detail. (Washer is positioned in the foundation panel in a circle cutout as with other panels.)

15. Smaller (left) tower. NOTE that the simplest way to plan colors is to cut the base piece from the window's "show-thru" color of choice (gray here).

16. Bat layers: top wing piece has "stitching" detail cutouts that will show through the second contrast layer color (orange here), and a solid (no hole) back piece. Eight hole-cut bat body pieces will be layered and glued up to create a circular channel where the 18mm magnet disc can be inserted. Bat body is two layers, with face details on the top layer (white fangs under the darker mouth shape).



17.  Glued together layers create the channel for the magnet disc. Apply strong clear adhesive such as Fabri-Tack to the bottom and sides of the channel, then insert the magnet disc.

When dry, securely glue the body in place to conceal the magnet.

(Take extra care to keep neodymium magnets out of the reach of children and follow all other cautions on the packaging.)

18. To attach sections insert medium size decorative brads through connecting shape holes along top edge, then through corresponding holes in base panels and chipboard mounts, and bend tongs to secure.

Connector shapes are:
Top to Upper panels: left and right towers.
Upper to Lower panels: turret left and bracket
Lower to Bottom panels: bracket and turret right

19. Overlap connector shapes over upper edge of next panel, then align holes and insert, secure brads. Here the right tower wall has brads being attached.

20. Glue in place the reinforcing rings. Consider cutting a pair for front and a pair for back. (See next screen for an alternative.)

Here, plastic "washer" rings take the place of the paper reinforcement rings on the front of the project. Thread ribbon or twill tape, etc. through the hang holes, knot or tie. Your project is prepared to be used!

NOTE the brad that holds the right tower cone secure to panel.

A COUPLE OF ALTERNATE PROJECT PLANS:
1. Mount your paper panel pairs to the fronts of two Decorative Metal Sheets (12x24 approx.) available from Hobby Lobby (and other suppliers) to replace the concealed magnets. Magnetized bat will stick anywhere on the panels!

2. Use temporary mounting system such as double stick tape or other decorated magnets to place the tower panels on the front or side of a magnetic metal french door refrigerator.

3. Create panels from fabric with shapes as appliques. Over-edge raw edges of fused shapes with stitching, concealing magnets under the shapes as with the paper. To see the fabric version of this design idea from Hearthsewn, click here: link. 

Here is the wool felt and wood half-egg bat that is part of the "Haunty Jaunt" quilt pattern. The paper bat could be modified to be like this version, if desired, and wood shapes are available. Magnet is concealed within double wings layers.

Hope your youngsters (and everyone)

has a fun time with your

Halloween Count Down Tower Project!

Happy Haunting!

Tall Sunflowers Quilt

This project was originally created by me

for a free-lance book publication

that included quilting projects which focused on

borders and bindings.

The scrappy background with companion

scrappy borders were the specific elements

that led to creation of this banner quilt.

Recently, the flower, stems and oak bucket planter

elements were turned into a digital design

available from "us" at SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.

My suggestions for using the design

include the possibility of digitally cutting the shapes from fabric (using fabric "interfacing" also known

to quilters and stitchers as lightweight

fusible web) using the Silhouette machines,

then preparing a background fabric panel - 

either scrappy like this one,

or a solid piece, and fusing all the assembled

shapes in place. To finish it as a quilt,

layer with backing and batting, add quilting stitches, bind, and hang!

(Book publication: 

Illustrated Guide to Borders & Bindings 

by Jodi G. Warner, 

publisher House of White Birches)

Sunflower 3d Box Tutorial

For those sunny days from mid summer to fall,
here is a snappy little sunflower 3d box with lid
made from cardstock measuring approx. 4 1/4" x 5" x 1 3/4". 
The design file is available for purchase
from SnapDragon Snippets through the
Silhouette America online store.
Create one to freshen your decor displays,
fill with lemon drops as a gift, 
hold paper clips or other small desktop items.

As shapes are cut, mark the "north" position on the petal rings and centers as they are removed from cutting mat. Also number the 6 individual petals 1-6 from "north" position clockwise around as they are shown in original design download. 

The bottom set of star shapes and boxing strips are for the BASE, and the top set are for the LID (with centering alignment hole). NOTE that the lid and base each have two star shapes cut: one to attach to boxing strip, and the other for top (or bottom) FACE shape to hide construction tabs. 

Begin by folding the boxing shapes at perforations. (See the next two images for specifics.)

For BASE, identify the narrower "curve" sections on the strip (tabs will have 3 wedges). Fold perforations on each side of curve sections as "valley" or face-to-face folds. Fold remaining perfs as "mountain" or back-to-back folds. Then fold the lower edge tabs back (mountain folds).

For LID, repeat the folding prep process. The lid has a set of straight "tabs" at the top edge as shown in this image (actually will be the lower edge of lid boxing when in place). These are the rim reinforcement tabs to strengthen the lid edge, and will be folded back (mountain) to the inside and glued in place.

Add curl to narrow sections.

Use a round pencil shaft placed behind

the base boxing strip then curl just that section slightly as shown.

For the lid strips, first fold back (mountain folds) and rim edge tabs and glue in place. Leave the end narrow tab unfolded (to be folded back after boxing is attached), then repeat the shaping process for the narrow "curl" sections. 

Begin to add first strip to base star shape. Apply adhesive to one curl tab and 2 straight "star point" tabs only. With bottom tabs folded perpendicular to strip, slide the star edge curve edge into the curve of the strip until it is snug. 

Immediately align the star point tabs around the adjacent point, pushing until point edges are snug against perforations.Place on a flat surface and apply pressure BOTH down against star and tabs, and from side to ensure that perforation is snug against curved and straight cut edges of star shape.  

Use a pointed tool (like this knitting needle) to ensure that star point does NOT curl or bend out of place, and to apply pressure to create a good bond of tabs to star all the way to point. Work the three edges and hold until glue is secure.

Repeat this "3 tab" gluing operation until the first strip is in place. This image shows the progress as more tabs are glued in place. NOTE that the tabs are visible on the bottom (outside) of the base star shape.

Apply pressure from the outside of the point and curve to continue to "snug" the star shape edges into the angle of the strip and tab perforations. Pieces should fit together accurately at each step to prevent an accumulation of inaccuracies. 

When one strip is in place, attach the first 3-tab set to appropriate star edges, THEN glue the strip-to-strip tab and strip end; make sure the end edge aligns snuggly against the vertical perforation of the tab. Doing it in this order helps ensure that the boxing perforations end up perpendicular to the base star shape.

Continue until the second strip is completely attached, then join the end tab to the lead edge as shown here. 

This picture shows the tab and lead edge being glued from the outside view of the base box.

Apply glue to all of underside of outer star shape, then position to cover tabs construction. Once adjusted for accurate placement, place face-side down on flat surface and apply pressure until glue is secure.

The base is now completed.

Repeat the boxing strip process for lid. When both strips are in place with end tabs joined, fold the final rim reinforcement tabs inward and glue in place. Attach the top FACE star shape, and the lid is now complete.

Build the sunflower on the six point star shape (shown as green in sample). Compare shapes to layour for "north" positioning, then to attach bottom & second rings of petals, and "solid" flower center. Attach the top center (with punched holes). Here one shape is shown with pencilled "north" arrow to help as it was removed from the cutting mat. "North" on the box lid is a point, shown top center on the largest image at the beginning of this tutorial.

With center shapes in place, glue individual top petals in place over their specific undershapes of the middle section. No. 1 shape is just left of the "north" position, then 2-5 rotate clockwise around the flower. Refer to the photo image of completed flower, next, to see in which positions these petals will be placed.

Here is the completed lid with north point of star at the top center.

Prepare and attach bee layers. Fold wing layer at center, then apply glue to fold ONLY, attach and hold fold in position on body until secure. Attach eyes.

Attach a small foam square to bee underside at front and tail. This image shows prepared bee. Determine your desired position, then remove protector strips from foam squares surface and affix bee in place.

Fit lid over base, and your box is complete!