Large Roman 3d Candle Display Box

Large candle form (approx. 10" tall x 4.5" wide) 

is constructed as hexagon-shaped LID and BASE 

that fit together (base provides strength to lid). 

Lid top includes three "flame" positions 

where "rolled" fringe shapes are inserted and glued 

to replicate a celebration fire cracker. 

Decorate candle walls with contrast offset rectangles, 

optional band (model uses shape as template 

for cutting corrugated band). 

Add the "July 4th scalloped rosette" as finishing touch. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main shapes upper panels (2)
B upper panel accents (6)
C upper opening ring  
* (extra top hex; not used in tutorial project)
D upper cylinder wick holes top cover
E main wick (3)   F upper wick (3)
G base main shapes (2)
H base bottom ring  I base cover
J cuff template (with corrugated strip)

2. Prepare the main upper panels by bending back
at vertical perforation and tab lines, bending
bottom rim tabs back.

At top of panels, bend as shown:
top flanges and side tabs bend forward; 
inner two horizontal perforation lines
bend back.

4. Overlap straight side edge over corresponding

side tab flange to complete first side seam.

5. Bend back and glue bottom rim tabs

in place behind panel, except leave flat and unglued

the final end tab at the straight left panel edge

until final side seam is completed.

6. Position and attach each of the accent

rectangle panels in each of the panel segments

leaving approx. 1/8" offset margin around

accents.

7. Form the body into a tube to bring

edge and tab together to complete the

final side seam.

(NOTE: because of the symmetry of

the candle tube, it is possible to fold the

body tube flat to apply pressure along

the seam while in conveniently-flat position.)

8. At top opening, bend the rim segments to arrange 

into the dimensional rim as shown.

Right "straight" edges will overlap 

the top face extension and downward face tab

of the adjacent segment.

After the side seam is complete,

fold the final bottom rim tab back and glue in place.

9. Prepare to glue the rim into position by

applying dabs of glue to the top face extensions

and downward face tabs . . .

. . . then re-arrange and push downward faces

into position so that the straight edge lines up

at the tab perforation to form a perpendicular seam.

As far as possible, reach under the seam without
un-adjusting the tab/wall seam to apply pressure.
Then move around to successive seam areas
to adjust and apply pressure until all are joined.

10. To further strengthen the rim construction, bend

tab flanges toward center of tube (perpendicular to walls)

apply adhesive to the face surface of these tabs,

then position and attach the rim ring shape.

Reach fingers through center opening to apply

pressure to attach all tabs to underside of ring

all around until all are securely attached.

11. Prepare the main and upper "flame" wick

sections by separating each strip, then adding

forward curl to the fringe edges using a tool

such as a pencil or the handle of spatula shown.

12. Form the main wick section into a tube,
first applying glue to the lead edge, then
wrapping snugly around a standard pencil shaft
as shown. Take care that tyhe bottom straight edge
of fringe base "stacks" up accurately, with bottom tabs
extending clear. Secure the final end with glue. 
Complete three main wicks.

13. Insert the tabs through from the front of the 
top cover . . .

. . . then bend back the tabs and glue to the

backside of the cover shape.

14. Prepare the upper wick shapes in a similar
fashion, then apply adhesive around the bottom,
insert into the center of the main wick and
push in as slightly so that it can attach.
Complete three wicks.

15. Position and attach the wick top cover
over the top ring.

16. Prepare the base tube by bending back

on all perforation lines.

NOTE that the bottom of the base tube shapes

have angled cuts at the ends of the tabs,

whereas the top of the tube shapes are

less wedge-cut.

17. Overlap the straight side edge at the corresponding
side tab perf line of the other shape, adjust
and glue to complete side seam.

18. Bend back the upper rim flanges and glue in place

to the back of the tube wall, except leave the tab

next to the straight wall side edge unglued. 

19. Form the walls into a tube to overlap

straight edge to opposite tab perf line,

adjust and complete second side seam.

NOTE that it is possible to fold the base tube

flat to apply finger pressure along the seam.

19. Bend the bottom flanges inward to

perpendicular, apply glue to face surface of flanges, 

then position base hexagon, adjust so that all perf edges

and hex edges line up, and glue in place.

Reach fingers through circle opening to

assist with the attachment of each segment

of the seam.

20. Apply glue to the base hexagon, then

position and attach the base bottom cover.

21. Insert the base inside the main candle tube

and push into place so that bottom edges align.

This will provide structural strength near the

middle of the candle shaft.

NOTE: if using this as a decor piece, glue the

tubes together. Otherwise, the base tube

will slide to far inside the main tube.

22. Prepare the corrugated (or other) cuff by

using the cut half template shape to cut

decorative strip that is two-times the template length.

(NOTE: corrugated media may be longer than

standard 12x12 paper craft sheets and therefore

would not require a seam; if using 12x12 stock,

you may need to cut and join the strips with

a seam that is as invisible as possible, then

cut to size.

23. Use the half template to measure and
bend the cuff at the appropriate places so
that it will match up with the hexagon corners
of the roman candle main tube.

24. Wrap the cuff around the candle,
position as desired, then overlap at back
and glue cuff in place.
You may also wish to apply glue under the 
cuff strip intermittently or all around
the strip.

Complete the candle with a decorative

touch such as wrapping raffia, ribbon

or twine around the cuff.

You may also consider preparing
the "scalloped rosette July 4th" element
as shown here.

3D Firecracker Stick Ensemble Tutorial

Get ready for a fun Fourth of July season

with this set of patriotic dimensional firework pillars.

Each is a separate cut file download,

available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store (pending)

or the SVG Attic shop (pending).

Built as a full-length "lid" with a shorter "base",

these boxes measure approx. 7.5" for tall,

6.75" for medium, 6" for short.

Cut file includes the embellishment front details and cuff "wrap"

(these samples feature a wrap cut as strip from corrugated kraft,

with colored raffia wrapped around cuff).

CONSTRUCTION:

1. Identify and cut the shapes needed for the specific size you are building. The sample for this tutorial is the medium size, but construction is identical for all three sizes, except for the different layered embellishment emblems.

NOTE 1: the "Top hex form" shape was modified after this image was photographed to include a hexagon-shaped finger hole.

NOTE 2: the "Fuse" is best cut from regular weight or print paper. The paper used in the tutorial model has a metalic scroll "print" design, and is the weight of type paper, so it rolls easily, curls to imitate a sparkling fuse, and fits into the fuse hole.

NOTE 3: The "Wrap" for the model was cut from corrugated kraft paper. If your cutting tool will not cut this type of dimensional paper and you wish to use it in your project, use the wrap cut shape as a TEMPLATE to rotary cut the required shape, then score the corrugated paper where the original shape has perforation rows.




2. Fold the Lid Body on vertical perforations between sections and at tab, then unfold.

Fold bottom edge tabs back toward body (inward or mountain folds), then unfold.

3. Fold rim perforations of each section at top of body as shown here, then unfold:

a) tab perforation inward (valley)

b) next two perforations outward (mountain)

4. Glue each accent shape centered side-to-side within segment perforations, with top and bottom edges aligned at corresponding body perforation lines.

5. Form the body into a tube and join the long side seam.

(See next frame for a helpful tip.)

To help with the gluing and attachment of seam edges, use a long pencil or rod or similar tool inserted into the tube and held behind the seam to press against. Apply pressure all along the edges until they hold firmly.

(I find that moving fingers along the edge more or less constantly will help with this.)








6. Apply glue and fold bottom edge tabs inward to attach inside the tube.

RIM ASSEMBLY

7. Re-position the rim extensions into center of body tube. Each section includes an overlap extension and tiny tab on one end (lower edge in the image at left), and a miter-cut edge on the opposite end.

The miter-cut edge of each section will overlap the adjacent extension, all around the rim.

Apply a little adhesive to the tiny tab, and perhaps an even smaller amount to the edge of the extension (try not to put too much that may NOT end up being covered by miter edge.

8. After glue is applied, re-arrange the rims sections as shown here . . .

. . . then work with each joint to ensure that as much connection and securing as possible is achieved. Then move quickly onto the next step.

9. Apply glue to the "ledge" formed by the folded-horizontal tab extensions. 

Place the Lid Hex Form into the top hexagon opening . . .

. . . then work around each section, inserting finger tip into hex opening to connect with tab underneath. Apply pressure between finger tip and thumb on the top to "slide" the edge of hex form fully into the perforation angle of lid.

Move quickly around the circle performing this same "sliding" operation to help the body tube take most perfect possible hexagon shape with hex form edges aligning as perfectly as possible at tab angle.

10. Prepare fuse. apply a dot of glue to the TOPSIDE at first edge of fuse shape at uncut portion of the shape (that is, below the cut strips section, and above the end tabs section). 

Use a narrow coffee straw (or equivalent) to help roll the fuse width into a tight tube.

11. Apply dot of glue at the end of the shape in the uncut portion, then hold and apply pressure against the rolling tool until secure.

Remove the straw tool.

12. Insert the fuse tab ends from front to back through the hex opening in the fuse top hex shape.















13. Bend each tab back, arrange so they don't stack on top of each other, then glue in place on the backside of the hex shape.

14. Apply adhesive all around the ledge the Hex Lid Form (already in place inside the tube body). Place the Fuse Hex form into the recess and hold until secure.


Curl the fuse strip ends slightly. (Sometimes simply removing the shape from the sticky mat will provide the curling desired!)








15. Prepare the box's Base shape. Fold at perforations as inward (mountain) folds of the base at each long side tab, each end tab, and at edges of center hexagon shape.

16. Bring straight edge and tab together to align edge at perforation and glue in place.

(See next frame for helpful tip.)

To help join the seam, insert a tool into the base and position under the seam. Apply finger pressure against the seam edge and tool until seam is secure.

Complete all 6 seams.

17. Fold edge tabs to inside of base and glue each in place.

Optional Step 18.

To use the box as a container, you may wish to cover the finger hole. Place and attach the solid hexagon base shape as shown.

When the base is inserted into the bottom of the lid body tube, it is easy to push the base too far inside the tube. Accessing the finger hole makes it possible to pull the base back into proper position, or to remove it.

19. Insert base into bottom of body tube and slide inside until base bottom aligns even with bottom edges of body.

20. Fold cuff Wrap at perforations, then position and glue in place centered (or in position of your choice) along body. Back edges of wrap should meet at the center back.

This sample uses corrugated kraft paper which I prefer not to cut with my cutting machine. Instead, I cut a Wrap shape to use as a template, then cut the corrugated rectangle, then used the perforations on the template to score vertical fold creases in place.

21. Prepare the embellishment shield. Here all three size Stick designs are shown assembled.

Embellishment designs include a base with fold-out threading tabs. (You can use the plain shape if preferred, and simply glue it in place, if desired.)

When gluing the layers, take care to keep the tabs folded out so they don't get joined in place flat.

NOTE: Since this scalloped circle shape can be rotated into many positions, take care that the tabs remain horizontal in relation to the star and "1776" positions on the front layers. Otherwise, the circle when tied into place may not be straight.

TIP: When positioning and gluing lettering with separate, unconnected shapes as are those of this "July 4th" plaque, consider positioning the outer rectangular frame shape around the letter cut lines on you screen mat in the final positioning, to cut a stencil.

Position the stencil over the base to which letters will be glued and secure with masking (or other temporary) tape. Apply adhesive through the openings onto the base, then place each letter or number shape into the stencil. When all are in place, carefully remove the stencil, and apply pressure to ensure letters stay in place.

22. Position and glue the shield in place.

(To use raffia wrap, proceed to next step.)

To place embellishment using raffia, bundle just 3 or 4 strands of raffia, align or trim ends straight, then thread through tab holes. Slide along raffia to allow a short end to extend to back of stick for tying. Wrap opposite raffia length three or more times around body, then tie ends at back with double knot and trim ends short.

Finished! Here is the Medium Size Stick.