Pumpkins Mini Wall Quilt Foundation Pieced Project

This new quilting paper foundation print & cut file

is now available from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.

Here is a tutorial for piecing this block.
Once you see how quick and easy it is, you can plan a wall quilt like this one
that is practically perfect for autumn holiday decorating.

This instruction is intended to be a "review".
Please refer to other paper piecing tutorials for more detail of
the piecing process.

Step 1. Print and cut the foundation diagram. Use a rigid straight edge such as a thin ruler or a heavy paper bookmark as pictures to PRE-CREASE the diagram on all SOLID interior lines.

Step 2. Apply a dab of fabric glue (stick) to the BACKSIDE of the paper BEHIND patch #1.

Step 3. Position the area of PATCH #1 over the selected fabric for that patch. Place the BACKSIDE of the paper diagram next to the BACKSIDE of the fabric.

BACKSIDE TO BACKSIDE

This is the only time this placement happens this easy way.

Step 4.  One by one working all the way around Patch #1 fold the diagram back along the creases/stitching lines, then trim a 1/4" seam allowance beyond the paper fold edge.

This image shows me using the "Add A Quarter" ruler that has a built-in "lip" on the underside that catches at the paper fold edge and makes this trimming super slick.

Here you can see the final shape for Patch #1, which includes seam allowances at all of its perimeter crease/stitching lines, as well as the outer edge seam allowance that is indicated as part of the printed diagram. 

Step 5. Now we will add Patch #2 which is background. The target stitching line is the line BETWEEN Patch 1 and Patch 2.

Fold the diagram back on the target line.

Step 6. Position the area of Patch #2 which is defined by it's perimeter creases and the paper fold edge. (I have highlighted this shape with red pencil for visibility in this image.)  The assembly is positioned with the already-attached Patch 1 fabric face to face with the right side of the fabric for Patch #2. Make sure the final positioning allows for fabric all the way around the patch's shape plus the required 1/4" seam allowances for all edges.

In this image, the seam allowance edge of Patch #1 is aligned with the cut fabric edge. Often, this works just fine. Other times, for grainline best choice, it will not.

Step 7. Quick cut (or chunky cut)  fabric section large enough to cover the area under the Patch #2 shape as it is positioned in the image for Step 6, above. Here I am holding the foundation in place as it was positioned while I fold it back roughly at the perimeter crease lines, then trim a generous 1/4" and more beyond.

 Step 8. Carefully unfold the diagram, hold the layers to retain positioning, and take the assembly to the sewing machine. Adjust machine to shorter stitch length (12-15 stitches per inch). Begin stitching 3 stitches BEFORE the beginning of the target line, continue stitching across the seamline making the needle pierce the layers EXACTLY on the line . . .

. . . then stitch 3 stitches BEYOND the end of the line.

Step 9. Press Patch 2 back into place.

Step 10. With paper print side up on cutting mat, work around the perimeter of Patch #2 to trim excess fabric away beyond a 1/4" seam allowance. To do this, fold the PAPER back along each crease, then trim fabric #2 away. 

First I trim along the Patch #5 crease . . .

then along the side edge of the block (beyond paper edge since a final trim will happen after all fabrics are in place), . . .

then beyond the crease at patch #6.

(Please note that the first downloads of this print & cut file included a numbering error. If your foundation does NOT include the #4, just skip through it and continue in order.)

Step 11. Repeat the process of Steps 5-10 to add Patch #3 in similar fashion.

Step 12. Locate Patch 4 or 5, which is a corner triangle shape.  Fold on the target stitching line. 

Fold the diagram as before and position the corner shape as it appears from the foundation back side over the face side of the designated (background) fabric. This kind of shape can be easily positioned (and for the best grainline choice) in a cut corner of the fabric, as I am demonstrating in this photo as I prepare to position it.

Step 13. Unfold the diagram and stitch on the target line as previously. However, this line extends to the foundation edge. When this is the case, begin the stitching at the paper edge, stitch ON the line across, then stitch 3 stitches beyond the end of the line to complete the seam.

Step 14. Press and trim in the usual fashion. Add the other three triangle patches in a similar manner.

Here is the block with the rough edges of all patches in place.

Step  15. Use rotary equipment and mat to trim EXACTLY on the outer solid trim line. Trim at all edges of the foundation, through paper and fabric layers.

Here is the final trimmed block. 

Step 16. Remove the paper by tearing along the "perforations" created by the stitching. Begin with the highest number and work in order to the lowest.

Step 17. Add background border strips to the edges of your finished block as you desire.

For my project, I will be preparing a set of blocks with borders on two sides to allow for space to fuse the leaf and vine. You may wish to put background borders all around your block.

My strips were cut 1 1/2" wide with lengths to match the block edges to which they are stitched. You may need to figure these lengths or adjust width for your own needs.

Step  18. Prepare a section of fabric with Silhouette America's "fabric interfacing" (lightweight fusible web with paper backing) that will accomodate the leaf or vine applique shape you are cutting, and position it on the cutting mat. Position on the mat, prepare the shape in the design file and position it on the screen appropriately. Send the job to cut, then peel away the excess fabric with fusing.

Step 19. Position the vine and leaf on the front of the block, adjust as necessary, then fuse in place with hot iron.

NOTE that is you are making multiple blocks as I will be for my project, it may be best to position the leaf and vine identically for each block. Use seam gauge, ruler, prepare a positioning template by making a block-sized paper and crayon "rubbing" then cut out the highlighted shape outlines, etc.







Step 20. Use the leaf shape with the center vein cutout to trade a temporary line on the top of the fused-in-place leaf.

Step 21. Machine over-stitch or blanket stitch the raw applique edges using matched (or contrast) color thread. Re-set the machine to a med. straight stitch then stitch along the marked vein line, pivot at the end to re-stitch exactly on top of previous vein stitching, then pivot one more time to re-stitch (total of 3 times). Pull thread ends to the backside, tie off, clip short. (If you plan, you can begin at leaf center top to eliminate thread ends to just 2.

Step 22. Join blocks as you have planned into a completed project. Here you see the nine blocks of my mini quilt, with added narrow and outer borders. I have completed the machine quilting at block and border seams and pumpkin, leaf and vine edges, then trimmed and added the binding.

I scaled my block slightly smaller (about 3" seam allowances) then printed it ONLY. Once I had my copies, I re-drew the outer CUTTING LINE to be 1/4" beyond the dashed stitching line of the print.

OTHER OPTIONS TO USE THIS PIECED BLOCK:

Placemat or Cloth Embellishment: Add "background" strips to all block edges (narrower on left and upper edges?) then fold 1/4" seam allowances under on all edges. Position over the corner of a placemat or table cloth and topstitch in place.

Coaster: Add outer borders as described immediately above, layer with back square (face sides together) and stitch around, turn, press, topstitch at edges, etc. Consider making one for each of your Thanksgiving dinner guests, possibly with pen-stitched, embroidered or cut-n-fused names to use as place cards. 
Use design as stencil shapes: for napkins, table cloth or placemat. Save the surrounding space as a mask, spray back with temp adhesive spray, position and secure in place on project surface, mask off surrounding area, then spray paint or sponge paint, etc., using one color for pumpkin, one or two colors roe leaf and vine. (Or use stencil vinyl to cut and then reuse stencil vinyl for a border, etc.)

HAPPY STITCHING!

Watch for more machine paper foundation piecing diagrams and designs

from SnapDragon Snippets through the Silhouette America online store. 
You can make specific block design requests through
Silhouette America online store, or by emailing me directly:
hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com .

English Paper Piecing Basics: Hexagon Flowers Mat

Traditional quilt needlecraft favorite

"Grandmother's Flower Garden" pattern is created using a hand piecing technique

called English Paper Piecing.

With this technique, finished size geometric shapes - usually hexagons or diamonds -

are centered on a larger fabric patch, then the fabric seam allowances are

folded snugly over the paper edge, then basted in place to form a

finished size fabric shape. These shaped are then positioned

and joined with a hand needle whip stitch along the aligned fold edges of each shape.

The mat pictured above was created with this technique and 1" hexagons

(measured across the center between parallel lines).

This is the artwork that shows how the hexagon "flower" units

fit together, with the outer "background" hex row completed

with additional "singles".

This graphic shows the print and cut file for three hexagon sizes 

available from SnapDragon Snippets and the Silhouette America

online store. Also included are the fabric template pieces shown 
which can be used to assist in cutting the fabric shapes needed.

They are printed onto card stock and sent to the cutter.

An additional hexagon variation includes a center "pinning" hole for

a slightly different preparation technique where basting stitching is NOT made

through the paper shape and fabric layers. Rather, the hexagons are cut fron

cardstock, pinned in place from the backside where a peek-a-boo of fabric

can be grabbed by the pin insertion to keep the form in place. 

As seam allowances are folded over the shape, the seam allowances 

are overlapped at the corners and

double-tacked to hold the shape until joining to other shapes.

TECHNIQUE TUTORIAL

Step 1.  Cut a fabric patch using the cutting template. Position one of the cut paper shapes against the back side of the patch. Use a dab of fabric glue stick to hold it in place.

Step 2. Working from the front side, fold the seam allowance back to fit snuggly around the paper shape edge. Thread a fairly fine hand needle with low contrast basting thread and knot the end. Take a few long stitches across the first edge, then fold the second edge seam allowance back and continue basting. 

Because of the hexagon shape, the seam allowances naturally miter fold on the back side.

End by taking a single backstitch through the fabric top layer only.

Step 3. Complete several of the shapes you will need for the unit being pieced. 

 Step 4. Layer and pin the first two shapes to be joined with face sides together. If it matters which edges get joined first, pay attention to that and make sure the correct edges are aligned and joined.

With neutral thread that matches the "majority" color or shade, thread a fairly fine needle with single thread and knot the end. Insert the needle under the seam allowance and exit out the first corner of the top layer shape as shown here. Pull needle through.

Step 5. In whip-stitch fashion, bring the needle and thread down and over the outer fold edges, then insert the needle back-to-front through the FOLDS only of bottom and top edges. The needle can pass through the paper layers, too, but trying to avoid this will make for easier paper removal later, and keep the stitching right at the fold edges more consistently, which is what you want.

Repeat this stitch right at the corner as the "anchor"  - or reinforcing - stitch.

Step 6. Work along the edges with continuing whip-stitches that are fairly close together as this picture shows. Pull the thread up snug after each stitch for a tight seam. 

Step 7. Work all along this first joining edge to the second corner. Complete the corner stitch, then repeat that stitch as the "anchor" stitch, BUT before pulling the second loop tight, pass the needle through the loop as a "knot" to tie off.

Step 8. Insert the needle through the point and between the paper shape and the seam allowance, to come up toward the center of assembly. Pull thread through completely, then clip end, leaving a 1/4" or so tail.

Step 9. Unfold the units, and fold all the back so they are back-to-back, then unfold flat.

(Admire your work here!, then move on.)

If there are other shapes to add, DO NOT complete the knot step nor "float" out under the seam allowance on backside as directed in Step 8. Rather, complete just the anchor stitching, then "park" the needle as is being shown here.

Step 10. Preview the position of shape #3. Select the two edges that will be joined next. Lay the "added" shape face together with the upper shape, align edges and complete the two-stitches-in-place step that is the "anchor" at the first corner and stitch along the edge. 

Now it is necessary to get the needle and thread to the top corner of this assembly so the stitching can travel down the edge. To do this, "tunnel" the needle by inserting it through the top layer's fabric exactly at nearest corner, push it between the fabric layers, then exit at approximate center of edge, as is shown. Take one stitch here. Then, repeat the tunneling process by inserting in same spot and pushing to top corner to exit. 

Step 11. Complete the beginning anchor step, then complete the whip-stitching along this edge to the first corner (where the first anchor has already been completed, in Step 10.)

Step 12. Pivot the next free edge of shape #3 so that it lines up with the adjacent edge of first patch (green here). complete the first corner anchor that joins corners of patch #3 and green patch #1, then stitch along that edge to opposite corner. Repeat the corner anchor step. Then park the needle.

NOTE that during the re-alignment of edges for this seam, patch #2 must be folded to allow edges to line up. This is what should happen.

Step 13. Preview the position of patch #4, then repeat the process described in Steps 10-12. 

By floating the needle and thread as described, the stitching can be continuous (without repeatedly tying off and tying on) for as long as your thread lasts. When thread is used up, tie off as described in Step 9 by completing an anchor wherever in the seaming process you might be, then hide the tail between seam allowance and paper layers.

Join all the shapes for the unit being stitched.

 Step 14. For your project, complete multiple units, then fit them together. For the autumn hexagon mat featured at the start of this post, this is the 11-hexagon unit that was prepared over and over. To join the units, preview the position as before, determine which single edges of unit and unit, or unit and previous assembly will be joined. Tie on there, then stitch to a corner, anchor, pivot to align the next edges, anchor and complete stitching, and so forth until all the edges that need to be joined are completed.

For this mat, additional units will need to be joined to complete the outer edge "background" hexagon border as is shown here.

Step 15. Once all the shapes are joined to each other and the "top" is completed, remove the basting for each shape. One good way to do this is to work from the face side of the work to first clip the basting thread, pull the double basting stitch free, then pull this tail and the knot tail.

On the backside, use a tool such as tweezers to reach in, loosen the paper shape from the temp glue stick, then pull the paper free.

(It is such a lovely transformation to have the
"crunchy" quilt top become soft and quiet again like a more conventional piece.)

If you are trying this technique for the first time, you may want to inquire among your quilt group or bee members to see if someone has experience who may mentor you or help you interpret the steps in this tutorial if you have questions. Otherwise, you are welcome to email me.

I am also interesed in knowing about interest in the offering of English Paper Pieced designs and project units through the online store of Silhouette America for the future. Let me know!

Happy stitching!