Sunday, July 20, 2014

Palm Tree Candy Cup Mini Oasis

Set this mini oasis
above each place setting at your next tropical event
to serve as special treat and placecard holder all in one.
Custom-sized openings in the platform top fit the very common
2 oz. "to go" condiment or sauce cup available from many restaurants.

Can you feel that island breeze?



CONSTRUCTION:
1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A platform first layer
B platform top added layer
C boxing front section
D boxing back section
E platform bottom layer
F palm tree base pieces (left and right)
G palm tree face shapes
H single leaves (2)
I leaf trio
J name card oval

Not shown: name card inner oval & boxing decorative strips front and back










2.Identify the difference between the main platform layer (it has the smallest circle cutout and is the bottom shape in this image) and the added onto the top layer (it has the largest circle cutout - top layer in this image).

The main platform layer is the one that the boxing strips will be attached to.







3. Identify the edge that the first segment of the boxing strip will be added to. The shape shown here has the front edge at the bottom of the image, with the name card slot at the back. The edge to begin with is being indicated by my finger - straight over from the tree slots.







4. Prepare the front (longest boxing strip by folding tab flanges back. Also fold back at side edge vertical perf lines, except the line beyond the third segment is folded outward ("valley") fold.


5. Align and join the target platform edge at the tab perf line of the first segment of the boxing strip. NOTE that the top edge of the boxing strip has tabs at each segment.







6. Fold the boxing and swing the second segment into place to align with the platform second edge, then adjust and attach.

Continue folding to align, adjust, then attach each segment and platform edge in similar fashion until the entire front boxing strip is in place.






7. Prepare the back boxing strip as for the front (see step 4 description), then overlap the left end edge at the front strip's end tab, adjust and join.

8. Continue with the remaining four segments of the strip and platform edges.







9.  As the final segment assembly commences, fold the end tab under, then align, adjust and attach as part of the process of the final segment attachment. The boxing strips are now completely attached to the main platform shape.







10. Turn the platform assembly backside up and make sure all the boxing lower tabs are folded inward. Position the platform bottom layer over the corresponding edge tabs, adjust then glue in place.












11. Position and attach the top layer platform shape over the attached platform so that edges and slots match exactly.















12. Fold the tabs on the left tree base back. Align the straight edge of the right tree with the tab perf line of the left piece. Adjust to make sure that bottom angle edges align accurately, then glue the tab in place behind the right trunk straight edge.












13. Align and glue the other left trunk upper tabs to corresponding edges of right trunk.










14. Insert the trunk long tabs through each of the top surface slots, then push the truck into place so that the slots continue through the interior space and exit out the corresponding slots in the platform bottom.









15. Fold the tab ends back and glue in place.


















16. Fold the bark scale shapes of each face shape up slightly and curl outward.











17. Position and attach the face shape to its corresponding tree base shape, taking care NOT to glue the bark scale shapes down.














18. Assemble the leaf units with the contrast "veining" shape on top of its corresponding single or trio leaf base.

Fold end tab downward. Curl the tip areas of all five leaf shapes slightly.












19. Glue the tab of one single eaf to the side of one trunk just below the top end prong shape.. Glue the other single leaf to opposite trunk side in similar fashion.














20. Position and slide the trunk top tab through the center slot of leaf trio unit. Apply a little glue to leaf unit underside to attach.














21. At this point you can slide the 2 oz. plastic serve sauce cup into the circle cutout, for a test, if you like. Note that the cup's rum should slide into the recess circle.







22. Fold the platform decor strips (front and back) at vertical perforations, then attach with upper and lower offset to the front segments of boxing strip. Begin at the same first segment as was done for the boxing strips (see step 3).

23. Prepare the "guest name" inner oval with names as desired (use Silhouette's print & cut process), and its offset outer contrast oval then attach smaller to center of larger. Bottom of oval fits into back platform slot.

(In this image, you can see the bottom of the name tag oval inserted through the slot.)





Here is the finished project, without the cup in place.
















And, here is the finished project, with candy in place.

Palm Leaf & Blossom Tropical Stencil Designs



Multiple Palm Leaf & Blossom designs
can be cut as stencils
then used to apply paint designs
to table cloths, placemats,
or as vinyl.


Coordinates for an island or pool party.
Designs soon available from SnapDragon Snippets
through Silhouette America or SVG Attic.

GUIDANCE & INSPIRATIONAL TUTORIAL
1. Decide which design you want to use, audition and select a layout (including scaling for enlarged sizes), then load the design in Silhouette Studio software to send the cut design to the Cameo cutting tool, load tool with stencil or other vinyl, then cut.


Design options in this set include triangle center motif, circular leaf wreath, block quatrafoil leaf desgns, and leaf and corner block border layouts.



The design sampled here is for the block and leaf frieze design that will be painted on a plain place mat

2. Use hook tool to remove the parts of the cut stencil vinyl that will be painted areas in the finished design.



Take care with the small "floating" oval shapes that are easily lost, shifted, transferred incorrectly, etc.







3. Cover the weeded stencil vinyl with a matched size transfer sheet.

(Transfer sheet is like very wide masking tape, sticky on one side, paper backed.)










4. Use a screen printing squeegee (or sturdy credit card) to rub across the back of the transfer sheet to help the vinyl stick to the transfer sheet and release from the vinyl's paper backing.













5. Position and secure the transfer assembly onto the project face in the final position. Use creases, temporary marker lines, pins and anything else you can think of on the project to help align and center the design.

Plack Pigma or other permanent pen can be used to make guidemarks on the stencil vinyl when it can plainly be seen to assist in this alignment and positioning process. For instance, a baseline extension can be marked to each side of the cut design, or center marks can be measured and marked, both vertical center and horizontal center.


6. Burnish across the positioned transfer assembly to help each part of the stencil adhere to the project's fabric face side.,

7. Carefully roll back to remove the transfer sheet, making sure that all "floating" bits and intricate edges detach from transfer sheet, and remain where they should on the project's face.

Take care, with the palm leaf designs, to get the floating tiny ovals to remain.





8. Use masking tape to enlarge the protected working paint area to each side of cut area. This projects the project surface from stray strokes, or errant finger marks, etc.

Use stencil brush and cream stencil paints (oil based) to fill the blank spaces in the stencil with your selected paint color. Work the paint fully into the design, and apply more paint strokes for a consistent color density.






9. Allow the paint to dry for several hours so that there is no possibility of smearing or transferring to hands, clothing or other surfaces. Release the edge tape, then pull away the stencil. Use fine tool like hook to remove small vinyl shapes within the interior of the designs.






Here is an image showing the finished place mat design that has been demonstrated.








10. The sample table topper demonstrated here is a 24" piece of coarse weave home decoration fabric (linen like). The center was located by folding in half in both directions, then the triangular blossom and three leaf design was centered, following pigma black ink pen markings placed on the stencil once it was newly cut.








11. The edges of my cut fabric could be narrowly (double turn-under) hemmed, or carefully cut following the weave, then fringed at the edges for 3/4" to 1". I used a machine short straight stitch to reinforce and define the area of the fringing.












Here is a shot of the finished placemat.



And here are both projects together.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

"Stay Cool" Tropical 3d Box Card

Send some summer love (or a warm tropical breeze in winter)
with this colorful and interesting card in a box.
Bottom-less card box with front & side flaps that fold down,
and back flap that remains upright, plus two mid-box bridges
are the framework for attaching some fun theme 2d shapes.
Great as a display piece, yet it folds flat for tucking into
an envelope to give or send.
This design is (or will soon be) available as a purchased download
from SnapDragon Snippets
through SVG Attic and the Silhouette America online store.
View the tutorial steps here to see how easily
this rockstar card goes together.

CONSTRUCTION:
1. Identify and cut the pieces.
Clockwise from lower left: box lower front accent shapes, box base with side flap accents on top, semi circle front flap accent with layered leaves, bridge strips, inside box back flap accent, sun, sunglasses, flip flops (shapes pre-assembled), coconut drink (shapes pre-assembled), stay cool cut phrase and accent (colors changed in final presentation).





2. Prepare the box base by folding as shown, inward ("mountain") folds on vertical box side perforation lines and tab, outward/down for flaps. Back flap remains upright.







3. Position and attach box lower outside accent pieces. NOTE that these shapes are sized to offset on two side and one top/bottom edge. Slide the top edge of accent piece up to the perf line so that the margin of box shows as side and bottom edges.






4. Position and attach the flap and back accents on the inside surfaces of the box base. NOTES: a) back flap has offset margins on side and top; b) side flap "grass/stray" shapes are offset, so slide top straight edge up to perf fold line; c) front flap semicircle accent should be positioned with top straight edge at perf fold line.



5. Form box into a tube to bring side tab and box side straight edges together. Overlap straight side edge over tab, align top and bottom of edges to be joined, then apply adhesive and complete seam.
















6. Prepare bridge strips by folding side tabs back.














7. Position front bridge into position in the box's interior (spanning side to side) at one-third of distance from front to back. Make sure that the bridge's top edge is even with the flap folds. 

Glue side tabs in place. Then, before the glue has set up completely . . .













. . . fold the box into its flattened shape to help the bridges make a self-adjustment.














Apply pressure at the bridge attachment spots to help the bridge creases fold completely and make any adjustments necessary. 




8. Repeat the process to insert and attach the second bridge, placing it 2/3 back from the box front (or halfway in the space remaining), then fold and press to help the bridge's attachments adjust as necessary.












8. Layer the three leaf base (whole shape) with the half leaf shapes on top. Position and attach the two side leaves to match corresponding cut edges of front flap, then position and attach the center leaf.















9. Layer the sun shapes & sunglasses shapes. Attach glasses to sun front, then position and attach the sun to the upper part of the back flap.

(Check next photo to see recommended placement height.)














10. Assemble the left and right flip flops, then overlap and position on the back bridge a bit toward the left and relatively high.

(If your flip flops are "too floppy" like mine were, you may want to consider cutting a second pair of reinforcing base shapes to glue behind before attaching.)











11. Assemble the coconut cooler by layering outline shape over front shape, then positioning and attaching straw and umbrella bottom edges/ends behind the top front edge of coconut.

Finally, layer the back shape behind with edges matched to front shape(s) where appropriate.











12. Position and attach coconut assembly on the front bridge, tipped a little to the right and relatively high.


















13. Layer the "stay" on front of the "stay cool" phrase cut out, then position and attach to the front flap so that some of the letters extend above the top flap.















Here is an image to show the profile of the card to see the layering on the bridges.


















14. Once all the embellishing shapes are in place, carefully fold the card into it's flattened position to make sure there is no interference between the shapes.

This is the position the card will be in to fit into an envelope for giving or mailing.

Consider using the "envelope stars flap 7x7 for box cards" design available in the Silh Amer online store to mail or give this design.







And here is the finished card as seen from the front.