Heart 3D Patchwork Form on Stand

Facetted heart front and back domes are edge-joined 

to form dimensional “puffy” heart which is mounted 

on a dowel-reinforced square post. 

Fancy tiered stand with angled checkerboard accents 

anchors the post, and can be invisibly weighted for stability. 

Use this decoration "plain" or with offset multi-patch overlays,

in many settings, as Valentine or other holiday decor, 

wedding centerpiece or serving table accents,

 baby shower decoration, and more. 

Heart measures approx. 9.5” wide x 7.625” tall 

x 2.5” deep at center; 

heart on post and stand measures approx. 14.75”. 

Stand base measures approx. 4.25” x 4.25”. 

(1.5” shorter post shape also included to make 

an ensemble pair of hearts which are two different heights.) 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A front heart facetted dome

B back heart facetted dome with finger access windows

C window covers

D interior vertical center support heart

E interior horizontal shelf supports (2)

F post collar support stacks (2 sets of 4-5 each)

G stand base solid shapes stack (4-5)

H stand top layer with post anchor hole & slots

I stand base post support collar squares (4-5)

J stand tier 1    K stand tier 2

tier 2 accents: L contrast trapezoid base (4)

M checker overlay (4)

N stand center column  

 O column post support collar squares (4-5)

P post (wrap for 1/4" dowel)

2. Prepare the shapes that need to be glued up into stacks

to be drying as other assembly progresses:

A) layer and glue together the heart post top collar shapes

into 2 sets of 4-5 each, taking special care - here and 

throughout - to align ALL cut edges as precisely as possible.

Place the glued-up stack on a flat surface and place

a heavy flat object on top, such as a wooden plank or

the thick book shown here, until fully dried. This will

help minimize curling or warping when using liquid adhesive.

B) layer and glue together square bases; press

under heavy weight until completely dry.

C) layer and glue together each set of post collar shapes,

then press under a flat weight until dried.

NOTE that the collars can also be attached in place

to their corresponding shapes - base and column 

(shown in Step 36) - at this time as described in Step 34 

to have them dried and ready in regular progression 

without need to wait, if desired.

3. Prepare the front dome shape by bending back

on all perforations for facet panels, edge tabs.

As part of the bending and creasing of some of

the facets which are flanked by narrow tapering end

of wedge tabs, "pinch" the ends of perforation lines

to ensure that the perforation line continues as

crease all the way to the point.

4. Begin to form the shape into a dome by applying

glue to the wedge tab at lower left, then overlapping

the straight edge of adjacent facet across wedge tab

to align as precisely as possible at perforation line.

NOTE that it may assist with the completion of these

seams to invert the shape on a flat work surface,

adjust so that the seam area is flat, then apply

fingertip pressure across the entire seam, paying

particular attention to the wedge tip area of seam.

5. Next, bend the facet segments to allow the middle

vertical seam to be formed by overlapping the straight

edge of inward facet across the wedge tab to

perforation, and complete the seam. Also complete

the mirror image seam on opposite side of front dome.

6. Adjust/allow to bend dome halves to bring top center

seam edges to align, overlapping the left side plain edge

to overlap across the tab to perforation line. Adjust

the edges for proper top to bottom alignment,

then glue the seam.

7. Adjust the dome to push the upper seamed area

"down" to allow horizontal two-part straight edge

to overlap the left & right tabs near center top seam

(completed in step 6 above), and join seam.

8. Complete the back dome assembly in similar manner.

9. Prepare the heart interior support by bending back

the edge tabs, as well as . . .

. . . bending the center "post" attachment tabs,

bending in alternating order, bottom pair forward,

second pair back, etc.

10. Glue the edge tabs in their folded positions,

thus creating a thickened edge for increased support.

11. Prepare the two interior "shelf" supports by bending

back on all perforation lines, except bending forward

at bottom edge tabs, and at "box" side tabs.

NOTE that as viewed in image below - where bottom tabs

are bending FORWARD - the face side of "shelf" panel

visible is the underside.

12. Position and attach one collar stack at the center

U-shaped notch, on the underside of the shelf portion

of the shape. Repeat for second shelf.

13. Form the extension into a "box", bending the bottom

flange under to align and attach to upper side of shelf.

14. Apply glue to the underside of the side end

flanges, then bend and push toward center

to form box's side wall - push until perpendicular;

 attach flange to shelf. Repeat for second side.

15. Position one shelf on front or back face of heart

support, with collar/underside downward, and insert

bottom tabs into slots - filling upper half of slot space.

On opposite face of heart support, bend the tabs upward

and attach in place.

Apply glue to the narrow bottom of the box, then 

reposition the "box" to attach to support, forming a

perpendicular support shelf.

16. Repeat for the second support shelf, positioning

it on the opposite side of heart support to where

the first shelf was inserted and attached.

For this second shelf, the tabs are inserted into

the bottom half of the slots, then . . .

. . . tabs are bent downward and glued in place.

17. Prepare the post shape by bending back on each

of the long perforation lines for skinny facet panels

and side flange. 

18. Form the shape into a tube to overlap the straight

side edge across the opposite flange to perforation line.

Flatten the tube on work surface to apply fingertip

pressure all along the seam until completely attached.

Re-form the shape into its tube form.

Align ends of 1/4" diam. wooden dowel and post tube and 

mark on dowel the cut-to-size length. Cut to size

and lightly sand ends.

19. insert the  dowel inside and sliding into place so ends

are even.

20. Apply glue to the inward surfaces of the center

post opening tabs, and . . .

. . . also into the "well" created by the collar stacks

(on each side of heart support) where dowel end

will be inserted. Then . . .

. . . insert the dowel into the space between the post

opening tabs, and push firmly into the collar well.

Once post top end is in place, adjust tabs so that

the crease lines of ALL run at the vertical diameter

of post, with the bottom "point" aligned at center

of post face also.

Apply pressure to all post attachment tabs until secure.

21. When post and heart support with shelves unit

is firmly dry, position the assembly into the open back

of the front heart dome and adjust so that ALL edge

flange tabs are extending around the heart shape.

Apply glue to the underside of the first narrow tabs

on each side of center top, then bend down around

support edges and glue in place. (Leave the attached

triangle-shaped tabs at center top and center bottom

unconnected til later in process.)

NOTE the heart support is sized to allow a very slight

amount of wiggle room within heart dome edges,

so do a "dry fit" to see where bottom fits best, then

adjust if necessary to "split the difference" of any

gapping that may occur.

22. Bend triangle-shaped "tabs" at center top and bottom

out of the way, then place the back dome over

the assembly to center and line up the top two adjacent 

angled edges with tab perforations.

Apply adhesive to underside of each top triangle tab

then bend down into position to align outer free edges

as closely as possible to back dome facet edges.

Hold each in place until firmly attached.

23. Spread the back dome away slightly and use

nozzle of quick-grab adhesive (Fabri-Tack suggested)

to apply adhesive at rim edge of one half of 

front assembly. Then . . .

. . . align and "pinch" the edges together and hold

together until joined. HINT: move fingers from one facet

edge to another to help all on one side align and join.

24. Bend the bottom triangle tabs over into

position as with top triangle tabs and join in place.

25. Identify, position and attach the triangle "covers"

overlaid onto the corresponding facets with windows.

STAND

26. Prepare tier 1 platform by bending back on all

perforations for center panel, walls, corner tabs;

also bend forward at bottom edge tabs.

27. Bend the walls back at corners to align straight

edge over inward-bent corner tabs, and join

each corner seam.

28. Prepare the tier 2 platform shape by bending similarly

to tier 1.

29. Prepare the checker panel accents by centering

the checker cutouts on the contrast base trapezoids,

and attaching.

30. Position each checker panel assembly onto

corresponding trapezoid area, centering with narrow

offset margin all around. 

31. Bend the platform walls into position to join

each angled side seam.

32. Prepare the column shape by bending back on

perforation lines for side wall panels, forward on

bottom tabs . . .

. . . bending back on "lid" edge perforation, then

forward on the four lines around the lid square.

33. Form the column shape into a tube to align

and join the side seam. NOTE that . . .

. . . it is possible to press the column shape flat

to apply finger tip pressure along the seam edge.

34. Position and attach the two post collar stacks:

one is placed on the backside of the column "lid",

and the other on the top of the base scalloped square.

taking special care that the post square openings are

as precisely aligned as possible.

Press under a flat weight until thoroughly attached. 

35. Prepare to bend the column "lid" into place by

applying glue to the wall between column and lid,

and to underside of three other edge flanges. 

. . . bend the lid into position to attach connected

wall onto inside of tube, also . . .

. . . tucking edge flanges into tube. 

Push lid into position until flange edges are even

with top column edges.

36. Position the column shape (with bottom flanges

bent outward as shown) onto the base shape

with bottom bend edges surrounding the post support

collar stack. Make sure it is centered, then . . .

. . . apply fingertip pressure around bottom to

firmly attach in place.

37. Join tiers assembly by inserting tier 2 tabs

through slots on top of tier 1.

At underside of tier 1, bend the "corner-ish" tabs

outward and glue to underside.

38. NOTE that the next couple of images are from

identical assembly steps from a different project

design which has scalloped base edge.

Apply quick-grab glue to lower 1/3 of column sides

(where tier 1 flanges will have a chance to

adhere), then . . .

. . . slide the tier 1 & 2 assembly over top of column . . .

. . . and down into position with column emerging

through tier 2 top window, and . . .

. . . tabs inserted into base slots.

Bend tabs inward and glue in place to underside.

NOTE it will be helpful to place platform base-down

on flat work surface and apply finger pressure in

tab positions to help with attachment. 

39. To help prevent stand with heart from tipping over, 

consider hot melt-gluing a few large metal washers 

as weights onto the interior walls of the column at 

this point in assembly.

40.  Apply adhesive to the underside of the platform

top accent layer. Then position it over the layered base,

and glue the platform together, taking care that outer

edges align as precisely as possible all around.

Apply pressure along all four edges to firmly attach.

If possible, place weights or "pinch" with folio clips

along ALL edge margins to help minimize warping or 

curling of these edges during the drying process.

42. Apply quick-grab glue to bottom of post, then

insert heart/post assembly into the post hole of

column, through tiers assembly, then "fish" around

until post end "seats" into the reinforcement collar

at the bottom. Apply pressure and hold in place

until thoroughly dried.

43. If desired, cut various paper "patch" overlays

for the heart dome facets. To simplify the process of

choosing varied paper patterns that won't inadvertently

line up next to same pattern, and to "balance" the color

values and pattern visual weight, use the shapes as

TRACING TEMPLATES then hand cut with rotary cutter

& ruler or scissors.

44. Below is a diagram for numbering the pieces to help 

minimize confusion about which triangle shape fits over which

 facet. The cutting shapes provided are for one-half of heart only. 

Reverse the shapes to trace & cut the overlays for 

the opposite half. If adding patch overlays to back dome 

as well, trace & cut 2 sets.

44. It may be helpful to hand number the shapes

to correspond with the diagram above prior to removing

them from the cutting mat after cutting is complete.

45. Position the template shape, trace with .05 or .07

mechanical pencil, trim to traced size, then . . .

. . . position over corresponding heart dome facet

with narrow offset margin all around, then glue

in place. 

Here is the patchwork overlay variation.

Round Shamrock Top Cut Outs Box

 Twelve facets create a rounded container 

composed of BASE (approx. 1.5” tall) with 

domed LID (approx. 4.25” across) accented with 

shamrock icing-style overlay that fits around window cutouts. 

This unique box can hold loose treats, 

displayed as seasonal decor or to hold potpourri holder.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A LID dome main shape

B LID top reinforcement shapes (2 to layer for thickness)

C LID front accent shape with dot cut outs

D LID underlay for dot contrast

E shamrock icing outline (3 to layer for thickness)

F BASE rim reinforcement

G BASE rim overlay with inner rim flanges

H BASE side walls (2)

I BASE interior floor   J BASE exterior floor

K LID flange segments (3)

L BASE interior rim positioning guides (6)

M BASE interior reinforcement "shelf" ring

2. Assembly of this box will follow the steps outlined

in the tutorial blog post for a previous project which

can be followed by clicking on this LINK. 

Before going to the other post for assembly steps,

review, then substitute the follow lid assembly

for the shamrock icing design shown below, then

substitute these for Steps 3, 5-7 in that other post.

3. Layer the LID top reinforcement shapes and join

together, taking care to align ALL cut edges

as precisely as possible. Immediately press under

a heavy flat weight until dry.

4. Position the underlay contrast ring behind the

LID's front accent shape . . .

. . . and position it so that it is centered,

with the bottom scallop - identifiable

by the narrow notch - under the shamrock's stem,

and the remainder of the underlay shape where it

will show thru the dot cut outs from front; glue in place.

5. Layer, carefully align and glue together all 

icing cut out accents, taking care to align ALL cut

edges as precisely as possible.

Press under a heavy flat weight until completely dry.

6. Complete the LID prep and assembly using the shamrock

reinforcement, accent and icing shapes in place of

those shown in the LINKED project tutorial, but in

the same manner of construction.

Tags Card with Cross Stitched Plaid Heart

Square card holds two decorative tags. 

Bottom layer tag has faux stitching (underlay contrast 

shows through stitch cut outs) and tie holes pair. 

Top tag includes offset front panel with heart shaped window 

to showcase cross-stitched heart with plaid design, 

with “slainte” Irish “health” sentiment word cut out below. 

Mount the two tags on front of 5.25”x5.25” card base 

with accent front panel. 

Tags measure approx. 3.25” wide x 4.5” tall. 

Model colors work well for St. Patrick’s Day. 

Substitute other colors for varied occasions, recipients or 

occasions, including school colors or other holidays. 

Stitching diagram is included with the cut file.

ASSEMBLY 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A card base with side fold

B card front offset accent shape

C heart stitching shape (2 to layer for strength)

D slainte ("health") word cut out

E heart tag base shape

F heart tag front base shape with cut out

as stitching buffer

G heart tag front accent layer

H faux stitched tag front

I faux stitched tag contrast to show thru

Also obtain selected 6-ply floss in three colors.

These are the DMC colors used for the sample project:

ECRU (or other cream)

470 green

310 black

To complete the project, use size 22-24 tapestry (blunt tip)

stitching needles.

2. Prepare the two stitching hole-punched hearts

by making sure that all "chads" or cut out "crumbs"

are removed. One way to do this is to bend 

a standard paper clip end straight then use it

to poke through all holes not already vacant,

then brush or scrape away extra bits.

3. Position smaller front heart on top of second

contrast heart layer, and, working quickly,

attach together, taking care

that ALL outer cut edges plus stitch holes and

hang hole edges align as precisely as possible.

One way to check that the holes align is to use

the paper clip tool to poke through various holes

across the panel, particularly at edges and corners, etc.

Immediately place the glued-up unit on flat work surface

and press flat under a heavy flat object such as

this thick book volume, possibly with something else

heavy placed on top. Leave pressure on until

glue is dried completely and NOT still cool to touch.

Pressing flat like this will help minimize warping or

curling of the liquid-glue attached unit.

HEART CROSS STITCHING

4. Prepare to stitch by cutting a 30-32 inch

length of 6-ply floss for the main color. 

Following sub steps with some images from a different

project will describe how to separate single strands

from the 6-ply group to minimize knotting:

A) Separate 2 plies by holding the grouped floss length

somewhat firmly between fingers of offhand, isolating one

ply to pull away, then pull it gently away from others 

while the twists  of the group begin to bunch up behind it.

B) Place the two plies side by side and line up the ends.

Bring end pairs together to create a loop opposite end. 

C) Thread the ends through

the needle eye. 

Pull the ends through then adjust loop so that it is

the long end.

5. Study this diagram to understand how to form

cross stitches for uniform appearance and tension.

NOTE that the RIGHT SLANT stitches are generally

placed across the row first, followed by the LEFT SLANT

stitches placed coming back across the row.

6. For this project, begin at the bottom center where 

 the first cross stitch will be created.

Each square on the pattern chart represents 4 holes that

would be needed to create both the right and left slants.

A) Insert the needle with thread UP from backside

in the TOP LEFT HOLE where the first X will be made.

This closeup from a different heart project shows more 

clearly where the first cross unit will be made. 

Needle is inserted up through

the top left hole of the four that are used for

first cross. NOTE that the first hole on second

row of holes is NOT used for bottom-most row.

B) Pull the floss through UNTIL about 3-2 inches

of the loop end remains, then insert the needle

diagonally to complete the first right slant stitch.

On the backside of work, insert the needle

through the loop and pull the loop tight to remove all slack.

This is the "tying on" process.

7. Insert the needle through to front of work, in

the top right hole, then insert the needle through

 to back of work, in the bottom left hole to complete 

the left slant of the only cross stitch on bottom row.

8. Move upward as directed on chart, skipping

the second "black" row which will be completed

in the later sequence, to the third row to continue

 to follow the chart with "green" floss. . .

. . . to complete the left slant stitches (5) . . .

. . . and then the right slant stitches 

to complete row 3.

9. Continue to follow the chart to move upward

as each "green" row is completed in sequence.

NOTE that ALL green squares in chart are stitched

as "complete" cross stitches with both left and right

slant stitches - even though the cream left slant

"over stitches" are shown overlaid on these.

As stitching proceeds, thread length will 

eventually be used up. Before length is 

unmanageably short, pause when the needle is on 

the backside of work as a slant stitch is completed. 

Slip needle under 3-4 stitches on the backside, then . . .

. . . slide the needle off, and . . .

. . . trim the tails close

to the surface of the work.

This is the "tying off" procedure.

10. Work the "green" rows to the top of the heart

design, skipping the "black" cross stitch rows.

11. Thread black floss onto needle, tie on to stitch

the black stitches of row 2, then continue upward

to complete other "black" rows in sequence.

12. Add the cream over stitches, left slant only,

as indicated on the chart.

13. To complete the vertical "black" stripes of design,

thread all 6 strands of a length of floss onto needle.

Tie on by reversing the heart to slide the needle

under several stitches near the first insertion hole

(where ever you decide to begin these long

over stitches) and pulling length through to leave

a short tail. Hold the tail in place until 2-3 stitches

are completed.

To complete long over stitches, insert loaded needle

from back of work to front at top of the long thick line

on chart which represents these 6 stitches. Then

cross down to bottom edge to insert front to back

to complete stitch. Continue until all 6 stitches are done.

Tie off on backside in similar manner.

FINAL CARD ASSEMBLY

14. Fold card base on perforation, then position

and attach front accent panel with narrow even

offset margin all around.

15. Prepare the "stitched heart" tag by layering

and attaching front (cut out) panel on top of

tag base, aligning outer cut edges as precisely

as possible. Then . . .

. . . position and attach front contrast accent panel

with narrow, even offset margin around outer edges.

Press the assembly under heavy flat weight

until dry (if using liquid adhesive).

16. Also complete faux stitched tag assembly

by positioning contrast backside panel

to back of main tag, matching punch holes, and 

with contrast edges slightly in from main tag edges.

Add narrow ribbon, yarn or thick twine tie at holes.

17. Position and attach completed stitched heart

assembly within the front accent's heart shaped

cut out window.

18. On front of the card, arrange the angled

faux stitched tag, with stitched tag over front of card,

determine best position, then attach each tag.

Add word cut out under stitched heart window.

Here is the completed card.