Crow Rosette Ornament

Two pleated panels join to form the medallion base 

with a pair of holes for twine or ribbon hanger at top. 

Crow’s scowl is created with simple circles within 

circles eyes, with brows and beak. 

Fun project for kids to hang from pegs or chandelier, 

or add several to a Halloween swag. 

Medallion measures approx. 4.625” diam. assembled.

NOTE: the rosette center pleating is secured using

hot melt glue which will require adult supervision.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A & B rosette pleat strips with punched hang holes

C front stabilizer circle

D back stabilizer circle

E beak   F eye base circles

G eye pupil circles   H l & r eye lid overlays

2. Pleat each of the rosette strips, beginning on

the end that has the "bite" half circle cut away

(this indicates the segment is a "tab" - see Step 3), 

folding the first fold as a "valley" fold. Then . . . 

 . . . continue in alternating fold direction order - 

"mountain", then "valley", then "mountain" etc.,

across the width of the strip. 

3. Identify the end segment of each strip where the "bite" 

end is located indicating that this segment will be placed 

under the adjacent end segment of opposite strip 

as the seam is joined. Then . . . 

. . . align the TOP ends of the two pleat strips - 

where the cut out hang holes are located . . .

. . . so that the "bite" tab on RIGHT slips under

the straight segment edge on LEFT, and the punch holes

of BOTH layers align as precisely as possible - 

then glue the seam where tab and end overlap.

4. Repeat the process to form the pleating strips into a ring:

align, overlap and join the seam of the other pleat strip ends 

(except this time there will not be punch holes to align) 

- just a tab segment with a "bite" that will go UNDER 

the straight edge.

5. Activate the hot melt glue gun so that glue is

ready to apply before proceeding. 

6. Invert the pleat strips ring on work surface with 

pointed ends facing down.

Begin to "gather" the center straight end pleats

inward where they will be condensed tightly

to be glued in place with 

SMALL stabilizer circle shape . . .

. . . easing and controlling the ring edge inward . . .

. . . until the ring can be laid flat on work surface . . .

. . . and the "bottom" ring edge condensed very

tightly at center - in fact, as tightly a closed

center circle as possible.

7. Adjust finger control and "grip" so that the pleats

and tight center opening can be preserved while

a bead of hot melt glue is applied around the center

circle opening, at edge. NOTE this glue cannot cover

an area LARGER than can be covered by the small

stabilizer circle. Then . . .

. . . quickly position - centered - over the circle opening

and applied hot glue, and affix in place . . .

. . . acting quickly to continue pushing the pleats

toward center all around the rosette to ensure

that they are condensed as tightly as possible.

NOTE: while hot glue is still warm and somewhat

pliable, allow or work pleating to be even

all around the rosette circle.

8. When hot glue has cooled, invert the rosette

front side down on work surface, apply glue around

center opening in wider area that matches but does

not exceed the larger "back" stabilizer circle shape,

then position and affix that circle, taking care that

it is centered.

9. Position and attach each pupil circle at center

of each eye base circle.

10. Prepare to attach the face accent shapes by

locating the circle punch hang holes which will be

at the top of the rosette - this is the center TOP.

Locate the center line of rosette that runs directly

down from those circles through middle of pleated disc -

this is the imaginary vertical line which will help with

positioning face.

11. Position the BEAK shape over the center stabilizer

circle with the slight rounded center top edge aligned

with circle's center top edge (NOTE center of beak

shape has been slightly modified from that shown

in this image to include the rounded top edge)

and glue in place.

12. Layout the eye assembly positions over the ends

of beak, balanced and even on each side,

then glue in place.

13. Layout the eye lid overlays on the eye assemblies

to test for position and balance, then glue in place.

14. Finish the ornament by stringing heavy twine

of narrow ribbon (approx. 11-12" length) through

the punch holes (sample shows back to front threading),

 sliding a painted bead in place

if desired, then tying ribbon or twine ends.

Halloween 3D Tube Boxes

 

Treat boxes imitate a cardboard roll art project, 

but with sturdier form and guesswork eliminated. 

Eye and mouth cutouts have contrast shapes 

glued in place behind openings, with pupil circle cutouts 

added to front. Three punch holes at center back seam help 

with edge alignment and can hold decorative mini brads. 

Tube box bottom is stabilized with a 12-sided and tabbed disc 

(with optional stacked/glued strengthening disc placed inside if desired). 

Cut-to-size bamboo skewer cross beam holds 

front-n-back faced arms or wings. 

Two variations for ghost, bat or pumpkin are included

in the individual cut files: simple open top, 

or crescent-creased inverted arch closure at 

front and back which lends the characters a “pointy ear” look. 

Either version measures approx. 1.875” diameter. 

Shorter tube box measures:   3.875” tall. 

Pointed version with closure crescents 

measures approx. 4.875” tall. 

General assembly will be demonstrated with

the Ghost box, with some detail difference noted. 

Other specific information about

the Bat (step 18) and Pumpkin boxes will follow (step 20).

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)

NOTE the shape shown is for the simpler tube,

while the top closure will be shown in tutorial.

B eye contrast backer panel

C mouth contrast backer panel

D bottom disc panel

E optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)

F & G arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)

2. If using the bottom reinforcements, prepare the stack

early so it can be glued up and dried before needed.

Position and attach the three shapes, taking care that

all outer cut edges align as precisely as possible.

Press the stacked disc shape on a flat surface with

a heavy flat object such as this thick book, possibly

with something else heavy on top, to help the shape

remain flat, avoid warping and curling, until fully dry.

3. Add some back curl to the main hull shape,

taking care that openings and attached flanges or

tabs do not tear in the process. Shown here,

the shape is placed face down and a thick dowel

is curling surface, where the shape is drawn across

the shapes edge. NOTE: a thinner dowel will actually

work better, as will a straight edge held stationary

while the shape is drawn up against edge.

Curling will assist the shape to form the tube.

4. Pinch-bend at each of the 11 short perforation lines

along the bottom of the main hull panel.

5. If making the top closure hull version, separate

the crescent division cuts full (may be connected

at top edge). 

6. Pinch bend along the curved perforation lines

for the center full and two side half crescent panels.

7. Add back side-to-side curl to the eye backer shape,

and . . . 

. . . do the same for the mouth backer shape. 

8. Position and attach each of the backer shapes

behind the eye cutout and mouth cutout openings,

taking care that the shapes are more or less

centered for full coverage. Press with weight

if possible, and allow to fully dry.

9. Prepare the tube bottom shape by bending the edge

tabs forward all around.

10. NOTE the widely-spaced perf guidemarks

along the "tab/flange" back edge. These help

identify the edge that will be overlapped by

the opposite straight edge.

Form the hull into a tube to overlap edges as

noted above . . . 

. . . line up bottom and top edges,

and align punch holes, then join seam.

Reach fingertips inside tube to apply pressure

all along the seam.

If desired, place mini brads through punch holes

and bend prongs to assist seam joint.

11. Apply glue to the underside of the tabs.

Position the bottom disc next to the bottom tube

opening, align one of the sections with the center back

segment as defined by perf lines and back edge.

Slide the tab down into position within the rim edge . . .

. . . until rim and tab outer edges align  and

press to tack-join in place.

Next, push the disc down into position while

at the same time adjust the shape of the tube

to allow the disc to fit inside, aligning each tab

with one segment. Press and secure center front

segment in place. Then continue around each half

until all are aligned. If disc slips inside too far,

readjust and use fingertips to re-position.

12. Position and attach eye dots within eye circles.

13. If desired, place the bottom reinforcement disc

inside the tube (with glue on the underside) and

drop/push into place at bottom of tube, rotating

so that the straight edges align with edge segments.

14. Measure and cut a length of bamboo skewer

for the arms interior strengthener:

ghost - 3"

bat - 4"

pumpkin - 3.5"

15. Poke the arm stick openings inward, then . . .

. . . insert the stick through both openings,

attempting to keep the "corners" directing inward.

Adjust the stick to be centered, then . . . 

. . . apply glue near the hole to help attach

stick in place. Moving the stick inward and

outward slightly may help spread glue

to areas where needed.

16. Select one of the back arms, then position with

center dash mark aligned down center of backside

of stick, and glue to stick. Allow to dry.

17. Apply glue to the front of stick and inside surface

of the back arm.

Position and attach corresponding front arm over

back . . . 

. . . and press tight on each side of the stick,

and also around fingers to achieve a good "seal"

connection and adhesion. 

NOTE it may be helpful to use folio clips along the edge

(all around) to help with joining. Leave in place until dry.

Here is a view of the completed tube with arms

in place.

Pour loose treats into the tube, or other contents

that will fit around the arm stick.

To close the top (of that version), bend back sides

inward, then back center, then front sides.

Finally bend the front section back (with end bent

at perforation).

"Seal" the closure with sticky dots, temp glue,

or glue the white circle seal.

(NOTE that the ghost and other box projects

have had distress ink or equiv. cheek accents

applied.)

BAT TREAT BOX

18. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)

NOTE the shape shown is for the simpler tube,

while the top closure will be shown in tutorial.

B eye contrast backer panel

C mouth contrast backer panel

D fangs pair

E bottom disc panel

F optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)

G & H arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)

Follow the assembly steps for the ghost box

except for differences: A) fangs attached below

mouth opening; B) wings in place of arms

as shown below

19. Identify the vert. arm guide mark on the back

wings.

Position and attach the back wing with stick aligned

at cut mark. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Position and attach the front wing over the top

of the back wing.

Here is the completed, closed bat tube box.

PUMPKIN TUBE BOX

20. A main tube hull shape (with eye dots within eye openings)

B eye & mouth contrast backer panel

C bottom disc panel

D optional bottom reinforcement panels to stack (3)

E & F leaf swirl arms front and back (with vert. center dash guide)

21. Follow the assembly steps for the ghost box

except for differences: A) one backer shape is placed

behind eyes and mouth; B) leaf swirls in place of arms

as shown below:

22. Identify the vert. arm guide mark on the back

leaf swirl "arm".

Position and attach the back leaf arm with stick aligned

at cut mark. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Position and attach the front leaf arm over the top

of the back leaf arm.

Here is the completed pumpkin tube box.