Irish Lass Angel 3D Figure

Tall narrow angel figure is composed of outer body hull "LID" and 
inner body hull "BASE" that fit together tightly

for strength. Skinny arm tubes enclose 1/4” wooden 

dowels cut to size below threading holes, with fold-over 

simple hands that attach at bottom tab extensions. 

Complex oval shaped head has multiple wedge seams 

and tabs, and fits onto the top of a hex tube-wrapped 

1/4” wooden dowel inserted through assembled body hull 

to be attached at bottom. 

Arms are attached with narrow ribbon or twine and bead joints.

Brocade wings have built-up layers on front, 

aligned with small punch holes pair on back. 

Embellishments that make the angel a wee bit Irish include:

 tiny thickened Celtic heart button, small shamrock banner flags, 

curly twine hair, kilted overskirt with laced-front bodice, 

and optional halo. 

Measures approx. 7.75” tall x 5.25” wide (across wings) x 

2.5” deep (at base) when assembled. 

This project as shown, with twine hair, lacings, etc., will also require:

14-20 yards of rusty orange med. gauge twin for hair

(sample project twine was tea dyed to achieve color)

10-12" lacing twine for pinafore

15" twine or ribbon for shamrock flag swag

14-20" of narrow ribbon or twine, 2 beads for arm joint

15" inches of 1/4" diam. wooden dowel for interior post, arms

decorative brads for wing back detail

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the angel and 

pinafore shapes: 

A main hull body shape with "dress" overlay accents

B main base hull insert  C base bottom panel

D hexagon post "collar" shapes (6-8)

E base upper opening collar reinforcement

F post strip with pass-thru holes for arm ribbon

G arm tubes with hand extensions

H head front  I head back  J cheeks stencil

K eye contr. show-thru panel    L hand overlays (2)

M arm lift rolled strip "beads" (2)

N Celtic heart button front layers (4-5), button base

O pinafore bodice with lacing holes

P left & right pinafore skirts with add-on "kilted" shapes

Here are the wing shapes:
(NOTE that, except for main base,
the shapes are cut as left and right sets,
with 2 layers of each being cut.
(Petal and upper wing interior circles and teardrop should
be retained from the petal cut, so that each will be
stacked in sets of 4 shapes.)

Here are shapes for the optional flag swag:

wrap-over flag bases, front accents, shamrocks.

2. Layer and glue together the shapes that need

to be prepared so that they can be drying

while other construction proceeds.

A. Stack and glue the post collar shapes,

taking care to align all cut edges as precisely as possible

(for this shape and all others), particularly at

the inside opening where post will need to fit.

NOTE: for glued-up shapes, it will be helpful

when using liquid glue to press them under a flat

heavy weight of some kind, such as the fabric-covered

re-purposed flat weight shown here, or a heavy book, etc.

It may take several hours for shapes to dry completely.

Pressing the shape stacks will help keep the flat,

avoiding warping and curling.

B. Layer and stack the heart button shapes, then . . .

. . . layer the stack onto the front of the button base;

press under a heavy flat weight until dry.

3. Layer and stack the left and right wing shapes:

A. the main base (double-wide) shapes

and the left and right wing bases;

also (NOT SHOWN) the inward feather "swoosh";

NOTE: following images may show the triple swoosh

shapes that were originally part of each wing half,

but which have been modified to a single in final design.

B. petal main shape, tip left and right,
contour left and right, middle circles stack
and tear drop stack;

C. upper wing base, tri-lobe overlay, upper feather,
circle stacks; then . . .

. . . position overlays onto upper wing base,

then position and attach circle stacks into recesses.

4. Position and attach the petal assemblies onto

corresponding left and right wing half bases, then

place and attach the upper wing assembly. 

5. Position and attach the wing halves on each side

of the double-wide wing base.

6. Prepare the post wrap shape by carefully

bending back on all the long perforation lines.

7. Form the post wrap into a tube. To assist gluing
of seam, insert the uncut 1/4" wooden dowel inside
the tube, then apply glue to backside of flange,
wrap straight edge over flange and force edge
around to match up with the first perforation line,
and apply pressure all along the seam until it is 
accurately attached and secure.

8. To allow the arms "ribbon and bead joint" to be added

later in assembly, the post includes a punch hole on

each side through which the needle will need to pass.

Therefore, the dowel insert will need to be cut into two pieces,

The bottom length will need to be cut a approx. 21";

double check the measurement between bottom post tube

shape and bottom of pass holes. The top length will need to be 

cut from top post tube shape edge to just above pass hole.

(Alternately, the hole can be drilled through the dowel,

when the dowel can be cut into ONE length and inserted whole.)

Insert top and bottom lengths and glue in place.

9. Prepare the main hull shape by bending back

on all segment perforation lines and side flange,
top tabs and top "lid". Also push inward the top center
hex opening, then attach dress accent overlays while flat

(view those accents in the shapes layout photo above).

10. Form the hull into a tube to bring the straight

back segment edge to overlap the opposite flange

to perforation line, and glue the side seam.

NOTE it may be helpful to insert a rigid tool 

into hull behind the seam to provide a press-against

surface to help secure the seam across the center.

11. Bend the top tabs inward then bend 

the top "lid" into position to align cut edges as 

tab perforation lines, and glue in place.

12. Prepare the lower hull shape by bending back

on all segments and flange perforation lines,

bottom base and tab lines.  

13. Position the collar stack on the inside of

the base shape with hexagon openings

aligned as precisely as possible, and glue in place.

14. On the outside, position (centered) and glue 

the bottom cover in place.

15. Form the lower hull into a tube to join the side seam.

16. Bend the bottom tabs inward, bend the bottom

panel into position, align and attach edges at

perforation edges.

17. Prepare the top reinforcement collar shape by

bending the edge flanges forward.

Insert the reinforcement into the opening, then . . .

. . .  align first long tab edge at corresponding
hull top long edge and glue in place until secure.

Use a tool (such as this weeder hook) to pull

the reinforcement shape into position

(this is a snug fit) so that all other edges align

at top hull edges to be glued in place there.

18. Apply glue along inner hull lower wall edge,

then insert lower hull into the bottom opening

of the upper hull, and slide the two together

until bottoms are aligned as closely as possible.

19. Prepare the pinafore and bodice shapes: 

A) bend back on all perforation lines, including skirt

top edge tabs;

B) add the 'X' stitches to bodice with twine lacing . . .

. . . with cut ends held in place with cello tape strip

on underside;

C) assemble "kilting" hem layers by overlapping middle

(narrower) shape on top of bottom shape, with

lacing holes aligned, front and back straight edges aligned,

and glue together where they overlap;

D) repeat this process to overlap skirt bottom

edge over kilting layers;

E) add lacing stitches through holes so that

three stitches show on front in a continuous line.

20. Assemble pinafore by overlapping bodice lower

edge over skirt top edge to top tabs perforation lines,

and glue in place, shaping the pinafore and skirt so it

will conform around the hull body.

Repeat for second side.

21. Position the pinafore over the front hull panel

with bodice "strap" perforation in a line with hull

top edge, and attach in place. Then . . .

. . . bend strap back to attach to top hull "platform"

so that angled end aligns with back platform edges.

and glue in place. Repeat for second strap.

Wrap the skirt sides back around hull to align back

edge roughly along hull panel perforation line,

and glue each skirt side in place.

(NOTE that front skirt remains unattached to "drape".)

22. Apply quick-grab glue to bottom of post.

Insert post gluey end through top hull opening, taking care

to orient the post so that the drill holes correspond to

hull/body sides so ribbon joint can pass through.

Pass post through the base collar hexagon opening,

then downward to seat into the hexagon stack opening

on base's bottom panel. This may take a bit of "fishing"

with post ends. Push post down until securely attached.

23. Prepare the head shapes by bending back

on all perforation lines for panels, wedge and edge

tabs, etc. Position and attach the eye contrast shape

behind the eye punches of face panel.

24. To apply cheek rouging, position stencil with bottom edge

at face panel bottom edge, hold or secure in place,

then apply distressing ink or stencil paint, etc.

with brush or, as in sample project, with fingertip.

Remove and discard stencil.

25. Bend head front panel segments to overlap

and align straight seam edges and perforations:

A. first top side seam

B. second top side seam

C. mid side two-part seam

D. bottom side seam

F. bottom mid side two-part seam
(Complete second side in same manner.)

26. Bend side panels of head partition back, then . . . 

. . . apply glue to the lower wedge tabs and
to other side tabs.

Bend tabs inward then bend partition into place,

tucking tabs inside head edges, and glue in place.

Use finger access oval opening to reach inside.

(Refer to step 28 to see partition panel in final position.)

27. Prepare the back head in similar manner

by completing the upper . . . 

. . . and lower side seams.

28. Insert the bottom tab with hex opening
fully into the bottom slot of front head assembly
and glue in place.

29. Insert side and top tabs into corresponding

slots, push in fully, and glue in place.

If possible, at the same time, apply glue along

inner edge of head back so that these will

join to front edge edges.

30. Prepare the left and right arm tube shapes

by bending back on the long perforation lines

(similar to post tube) and also bend the upper

tabs and hex panel inward, and lower tabs and 

hand* extensions inward (*hand extension base

perforation is bent back, second perf line is

bent forward).

31. Form the arm shape into a tube, using
the 1/4" uncut dowel to assist with aligning
side straight edge and side flange perf line
and providing press against surface for 

gluing the seam. 

32. Move the top of dowel down to align end

with top tabs and hex panel, then bend

tabs inward . . . 

. . . bend "cap" hex into position and glue in place.

33. Cut two arm dowel insert pieces at 2.125" each

(NOTE that dowel will not fill the arm tube

beyond the ribbon-joint hole punch.

34. Insert dowel into bottom of arm tube

and push inward until end is clears

bottom/hand base tab perforations.

Glue dowel in place.

Bend tabs inward . . . 

. . . bend hands toward center as shown,

glue hand base segments to top of dowel,

and hand main portions back to back

to each other.

35. Prepare hand overlays (with ribbon holes

if planning to include the flags swag option) by
bending back on center perforation line.
Apply glue to hand underside,
then wrap around hand extension,
adjust and glue in place.

NOTE: if incorporating the swag, the hand holes

will need to be "punched" through inner layers

using a sharp rod tool such as a pointy awl.

36. (Following images are from a previous project.)

Prepare ribbon or twine joint with bead ends

by threading a needle that will fit through selected beads

with a doubled length. 

A. thread needle through bead and tie end knot and bow.

B. thread needle through first arm hole punches

(NOTE orient hand straight edge toward front body edge).

C. thread needle through first hull side panel hole punch,

then through both holes of post, then through 

second hull side hole punch.

D. thread through holes of second arm.
E. thread through final bead, tie knot and bow,
and trim excess ribbon or twine.

37.  Apply glue to back panel face and top end of 

protruding post, then insert end into head bottom opening,

and slide head fully into position so that post top

attaches to head top underside, then apply pressure

so that back of post attaches to interior partition.

38. Prepare curly twine hair by wrapping tightly around

a narrow dowel or knitting needle, secured by paper tape

at each end. Once the rod has been fully loaded with

as much wrapping as will fit, wet the coil with liquid

(spray) starch and allow to dry. Carefully remove from

rod tool, then re-load and repeat until desired quantity

of "curls" have been produced.

39. Prepare the "wig" by arranging loose coil into

selected-length loops, then laying pinched loops

(forehead edge) tightly in a line and machine stitching

near edge with matching thread.

HINTS: mark off the target curl length rectangle

onto a piece of type-weight paper to act as a guide

to arranging loop lengths, and to provide a pinch loop

end stitching guide line. The rectangle used for

the sample project was approx. 3" side to side

(loops were NOT stretched by loosely laid)

and approx. 5" long.

40. Remove wig from paper by tearing paper along

stitching-created perforation line. Tie off thread ends.

41. Center the "bangs" edge over top of angel head

and glue-tack in desired place. Then arrange hair

down head sides, creating "ear line" on each side,

then working ends to back head base, gluing in place

as arranging proceeds.

Arrange hair on top of head as desired - the sample hair

was loosely piled and intermittently glued in place.

A narrow hair ribbon was glue-tacked at head back base,

then wrapped forward to front top and tied in knot and bow,

secured with a dab of glue.

42. Apply glue to body upper back around punch holes,

then position and attach wings securely in place,

aligning holes. Insert and glue decorative brads in holes.

43. Position and attach heart button in place.

44. If incorporating the flag swag, prepare the flags

by bending base shape back on perforation,

attaching offset accent fronts and shamrocks.

45. Cut a length of twine (approx. 9-12"), locate center,

then fold the first flag over twine and . . .

. . . attach in place.

46. To assist angel's arms to extend wide enough to

hold the swag at desirable width, prepare paper "beads"

to prop arms. Use fine-tipped tweezers to grab one end

and tightly roll bead strip, gluing as needed while

rolling proceeds, until . . .

. . . a tightly rolled bead is produced. 

Glue end to secure. Form two beads.

47. Apply dabs of glue to coiled side of bead, then

use tweezers to insert between arm and body,

and attach roughly at bodice-bottom level.

(NOTE this fixes arms in place so it may also be

helpful to glue arm top in place to body side.)

48. Thread swag twine ends through hand holes,

then neatly knot or bow ends, trim excess.

Here is the completed Irish Angel project.