Santa 3D Pyramid Box Arms

Folk style Santa is a dimensional box composed of 

lid and base that fit together. 

Beard, face, hat fur trim, and cubic dimensional arms 

make him festive. 

Add special touches for more fun: 

flesh tone-painted bead nose 

and tiny jingle bell at hat point. 

Santa box measures approx. 7.375” tall x 2” deep 

x 2.25” wide when completed and closed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main hull (head)

B & C front coat overlays   D back coat overlay

E left & right sleeve/arm structures with fur pieces

F face overlay   G beard overlay

H eye contrast underlay with cheek insert circle

I hat buffer shapes (helps hat fit at proper level)

For dimensional nose, use a small wood bead

approx. 11/32" (9mm) with hole filled in with glue

or wood putty, etc. A substitute fold-over circle can

be used in place of bead if desired.

NOTE: A similar project can be reviewed for

additional assembly photos by following

this LINK.

2. Prepare the head main hull shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for panels, flanges.

(NOTE that this version is altered to have bottom

triangular floor panel attach to back panel

(see next image).

3. Position and attach the front 2 coat and back coat

overlays onto the face side of the main hull, with

overlay straight edges aligned along perforation

lines that define the panels, including bottom edges

or bottom perforation line. Allow to dry thoroughly

and press flat if using liquid adhesive.

4. Form the hull into a tube to bring straight side front

edge to overlap opposite side flange to perf line,

adjust for top-to-bottom alignment, then join seam.

5. At bottom, bend flanges in, apply adhesive,

then tuck flanges up inside pyramid tube and

attach behind front walls.

Apply pressure to assist with joining.

6. Prepare face overlay by bending in half at

center perforation line.

7. Bend eye contrast underlay at center perf line

and attach behind eye openings at the inside

of front walls, with perf line bends tucked

snugly together.

8. Position and attach face overlay on hull front,

with bend aligned exactly over corresponding

body bend, and with top straight cut edges aligned

with hull top straight edges. Make sure that

the eye and nose openings of all applicable layers

line up as precisely as possible.

9. Repeat the face overlay process with the beard

overlay.

10. Position and attach cheek circles into the circle

recesses of face overlay.

11. Prepare for hat assembly by layering and attaching

 the hat rim buffer insert shapes into (3) pairs,

 aligning all cut edges as precisely as possible. 

Press under a heavy flat weight until dry.

 

12. Bend back on all perforation lines for

hat at panel edges and top tabs and "roof".

(After Step 13 the hat will be completely formed

as shown.)

13. Position and attach a buffer stack at backside

bottom edge of TWO of the triangle panels

which are next to the hat's side flange tab,

aligning straight bottom edges of each, and

taking care that side angle edge are within angled

perforation lines. The third stack will be similarly

positioned and attached after the side seam

is joined, so it can be attached on top of seam flange.

14. At top of hat (shown here before side seam is

closed) the tiny tabs should be bent inward,

the triangle tip panel folded down to attach in place

and close hat tip.

15. Bend the hat fur shape back on perf lines,

then position and attach so that the end-to-end gap

falls at any corner that is not center front.

16. Prepare the sleeve/arm shape by bending back

on all perforation lines for panels and tabs.

17. Form the center portions into a ring to bring

the straight edge around to overlap tab to perforation

line, adjust for alignment of other edges or cross

perforations, etc., and glue seam.

18. At sleeve end, bend the side and end tabs

in at perpendicular angle, apply glue, then tuck

down inside of sleeve until end panel is even

with top of "tube".

NOTE that it may be helpful to use a tool inside

the narrow tube to assist with applying pressure

along seams.

19. Bend the fur strips on perf line, then wrap around

sleeve tube at end with bends aligned, and glue

in place. Place strips so they run end to end

around the tube.

Finally, position and attach the end fur "ring"

on sleeve end.

20. Bend inward edge tabs trio inward at perpendicular

angle, then audition (dry fit) their positioning on body.

NOTE that the top of sleeves should be parallel

to tabletop - not angled - when they are in correct

left/right position. 

Then apply quick-grab glue such as

FabriTack shown here to bent-inward tabs, and also

to the rounded unbent back tab.

Fit and attach to back side body angle so that . . .

. . .  front top corner falls just below beard edge . . .

. . . with back tab laying flat on back panel.

21. Position and attach opposite arm

so that top edges are on same virtual line.

22. To close box, orient hat with seams toward

one of back sides, then slide over top of hull.

23. To attach small jingle bell, thread a length of

twine onto a darning needle (smallest possible that

accepts twine) then insert needle through the pair

of holes at hat tip, and carefully pull twine through.

String bell loop onto twine and tie in neat knot

and bow; trim excess ends.

24. Prepare (fill, sand) nose wood bead, then paint

to match face color. When dry, apply quick-grab

glue to the nose hole edges, then . . .

. . . push the bead into the recess and hold

in place until secure.

As alternative, the substitute circle shape can be

bent at center and glued in place to cover

the nose hole.

Here is the completed pyramid Santa with arms,

front view, and . . .

. . . back view.