Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Poinsettia Wreath and Stand

Dimensional stand is composed of two-tier base boxes
and contour wrap that glue together.
Hexagon post tube inserts through tier openings
and is anchored in place by means of a built-up collar
in base. Add weight and strength to post
by inserting a cut-to-size 3/4" diameter wooden dowel.

Finish with top cap shape and two-sided hook
that attaches to post front face at top.
Measures approx. 11.75" tall.

Poinsettia wreath has leafy-edge base.
Layered blossoms and bracts have alignment
punch holes that correspond to holes
in wreath base. Use mini brads to hold in place,
then glue two-part contrast centers over brads
(or use yellow brad fasteners alone).
Change flower colors or add different style
flowers from other designs to create
different seasonal wreath.
Measures approx. 10" diameter.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the stand shapes:
A base bottom tier
B base "collar" build up (5)
C base top tier
D contour
E post shape   F post top cap
G double hook shape (3)
2. Identify and cut the shapes for the winter
(poinsettia) wreath:
A wreath leaves base (1 plus 1-2 for reinforcement)
B leaf shape (7)   C bottom petals shape (7)
D middle petals shape (7)  E top petals shape (7)
F two-part blossom center (7 sets)
NOTE: Assembly steps for the wreath
begin with step 29.
3. Prepare the base bottom tier shape by bending
back on all perforation lines for side walls
and tabs.
4. Form the tier shape into a ring to bring
the end tab of side wall "boxing" to align
at the opposite side wall between the two
hexagons, then overlap the straight wall edge
over the tab to perforation line and
glue in place.
5. Bend the bottom (whole) hexagon bottom shape
to overlap the bottom tab set, adjust so that
perforation/tab edges line up with straight
edges of hexagon, and glue each tab in place.
6. Prepare the collar that will anchor the bottom
of the post inside the bottom tier, by layering
and gluing together all 5 shapes, taking care
to line each layered shape exactly so that
all inner and outer cut edges are aligned
as closely as possible.
7. Insert the collar shape into the bottom tier,
then center and glue in place against the
bottom wall.
8. Bend the upper tabs inward, then position,
align and glue the top wall in place in similar fashion
as in step 5. NOTE that it may be useful in
attaching tabs in place to insert the blade end
of a tool such as the Silhouette spatula through
the hexagon opening to provide a "press-against"
surface to help join the tabs and wall
(see step 14).
9. Prepare the second tier shape in similar manner
as to bottom tier in Step 4 . . . 
. . . form into a ring to align and attach boxing
end tab, then . . . 
. . . bend top tabs inward, bend the top hexagon
"lid" into position, adjust and attach tabs to
underneath surface of lid.
Also bend bottom tabs inward at 
perpendicular angle.
11. Prepare the contour shape by bending back
on all perforation lines, except bend the top tabs
12. Form the contour shape into a tube 
to bring the side tab next to the opposite long
side straight edge, overlap straight edge
to tab's perforation line, and attach in place.
13. Bend the bottom tabs inward to perpendicular,
bend hexagon "lid" into position, adjust,
and glue in place.
14. To help join the lid to side wall tabs,
it may be helpful to insert the flat blade of
the spatula tool into the hexagon window
and behind the lid wall and tab to provide
a "press-against" surface to join surfaces.
15. Prepare the post shape by bending back
on all long perforation lines.
16. Form the post shape into a tube to bring
the long straight side edge to overlap
side tab to perforation line, adjust to make sure
top and bottom edges match, then glue in place.
NOTE: using a length of 3/4" wooden dowel
as a form to wrap the post paper shape around
will be helpful.
17. Measure the dowel that will be cut to size
to remain inside the finished stand post
(to provide strength and weight) by lining up
one straight cut dowel end at bottom of post tube,
then marking the top edge of post tube.
Cut post to size as marked.
18. Insert the bottom end of the post (with small
openings) through the second base tier.
19. Apply glue in the hexagon opening of the collar
inside the bottom tier, then insert the bottom end
of post through bottom tier opening, and
seat the post end into the collar opening.
Adjust then hold in position to ensure that
the post is secured in upright, perpendicular
position as glue dries.
20. Apply glue under the second tier,
then slide the tier downward to attach
to the top surface of bottom tier.
21. Insert the contour shape over the post TOP
end . . . 
. . . and slide downward into position.
Apply glue to the bottom hexagon of the contour,
then slide completely down to attach bottom
of contour to top of second tier.
22. With post centered inside the contour shape,
bend the top tabs inward to touch post wall,
and glue in place.
23. To add more weight for stability, make a temp
cone from scrap of paper, insert temp cone
small end into top of post (wooden dowel removed)
and pour in pellets or rice), shaking the post 
assembly to get the fill materials to filter
through the small openings into the bottom base.
24. Re-insert the dowel into the post,
making sure any fill materials have exited 
the post bottom completely, push down
25. Prepare the top cap by bending side tabs
downward. Position and attach cap shape
on top of dowel of post, then bend side walls
into place to attach to post outer side walls.
26. Bend each of the double arm shapes forward
at the perforations.
27. Layer and attach the arms into one unit,
lining up edges as closely as possible.
(NOTE since the shapes are the same size,
there will be a light offset as the layers build up.)
28. Position the center "rectangle" panel on
the front post face just below the top cap
and attach securely in place.
If a single hook hanger is preferred (for non-wreath
decorations, for instance), the arm tips can be
brought together and glued.
Here is the completed stand.
29. Add some curl to the leaf tips
by sliding paper shape between a rod tool
like this spatula tool handle (think curling ribbon),
and . . . 
. . . to the large and small petal shapes tips, and . . . 
. . . to the top petal shape tip.
30. Prepare the center unit by layering
the single circle onto a matched-edge location
on the base shape.
31. Layer the petal shapes, largest on bottom,
then medium, then smallest on top, lining up
the center punch holes and rotating the petals
to offset the points as shown.
Add a dab of glue near the center to join
the three shapes in the desired position.
Add the leaf shape under the petals
and attach in place.
32. Layer the build up leaf base layers and
glue together. TIP: place flat weights or equivalent
on top of the base while it dries to prevent warping
or curling.
33. Position each blossom unit over a punch hole,
rotate blossoms as needed for a pleasing
arrangement, attaching in place with a dab of glue.
34. If desired, paper centers can be replaced
with mini brads threaded through the punch holes.
35. Position the center units over the blossom
centers, either on top of the brads, or
simply over the punch holes.
36. If desired, cut a reinforcement ring from
heavier stock, or multiple layers glued together,
and attach behind the wreath base.
Here is the completed wreath.

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