Candle Ring 3D Evergreens

Hollow center candle ring or small-scale wreath 

features evergreen and cedar sprigs, 

rolled ponderosa needles sprig, 

and miniature holly stem greenery. 
(Shown here with the hexagon center structure
that assists attachment to Candle 3D Chunky Drips project;
center can be holly circle for ALL layers.)

Three base sprig rings provide foundation. 

A low-relief base riser added above sprig ring bases assembly 

can provide some dimensional "lift". 

Add generous multiples of slightly-curled greenery sprigs 

and stems in "layers" all around on riser, 

or simply on top of rings. 

Add on optional berry pic elements for 

added variety as desired. 

Designed to fit on the "Candle Stand 3D Display" 

with the "Candle 3D Chunky Drips". 

Measures approx. 4.5" diameter. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A riser base
B cedar sprigs ring
(sample project is using the cedar ring
that includes the middle hexagon shape
for use with the candle stand project)
C fir springs rings 1 and 2
D individual cedar sprigs (12 short, 12 long)
E individual fir sprigs (12 short, 12 long)
F ponderosa sprig units (12)

G holly sprig (18)

2. Add some curl to the cedar and fir ring sprig

extensions by pulling each individually across

a rod tool such as this knitting needle, or something

similar (think curling ribbon).

3. Stack the three spring rings, cedar on the bottom,
fir on top, using the north/south notch cutout
on the interior of the ring to line up the layers.
Glue stacks together at ring.

4. Prepare the optional riser by bending back on

the side wall perforation lines so that each can

form a "tunnel" at the edge of the hexagon. 

Also bend the outer-most tab forward.

5. Bend the interior tabs back past perpendicular, 

away from the platform so that they catch the lead

edge of the corresponding wall.

6. Apply glue to the tab backsides and attach

to the inward short wall face, then . . . 

. . . push the outer wall face up to something perpendicular]

such as the wood block shown here, to ensure

that the wall achieves upright positioning as the

riser assembly continues.

7. Repeat the process of "curving" the next wall section

back to form the "tunnel", with the tabs pushed downward

and bent back to attach to the inward wall edge,

using the block or other push-against surface to keep

the wall at ninety degree angle as much as possible.

8. Where the two wall tunnels converge, the end tabs

at outer face and inward face should overlap

the adjacent wall surfaces and attach. 

Repeat the wall assembly steps for the remaining

wall sections, taking care as the final wall is

prepared and positioned to tuck end under tabs.

Here is the completed riser unit.

(It isn't very deep, but will serve to lift the sprigs

and give the wreath dimention.)

9. Position the riser on top of the ring stack,

using the interior edges to center it, then glue in place.

NOTE: that the hexagon base broken circle edge

is a registration edge for the riser's inner circle curout.

NOTE: an attractive lower-relief mini wreath or

candle ring can be crafted without the riser.

Simply layer the sprigs in place described

onto the rings stack - without the riser.

10. Get familiar with the individual sprigs that will

be used to complete each side of the wreath ring.

Shown here at left is the riser base.

FOR EACH OF THE SIX RISER HEX SECTIONS:

prepare 3 holly leaves, 2 ponderosa sprigs,

2 short & 2 long cedar sprigs,

2 short & 2 long fir sprigs

11. Add some curl to the sprigs, particularly

at the middle and tip end.

12. Prepare the holly leaves by scoring a center line,

then curl as for other elements.

13. Prepare the ponderosa sprigs by bending stem
in half at stem end, and . . . 

. . . gluing the two halves together along stem

to bottom of perf line.

14. Add curl to the needles portion, then . . . 

. . . roll the stem-attached edge tightly, and . . . 

. . . continue rolling until all width is tightly rolled,
adding glue along base strip as needed to keep
needles straight and stacking.

15. Use the curling tool to flick the needle ends back
slightly, spiraling around "center".

16. Determine an arrangement for first side of wreath

riser, then repeat the arrangement for all size sides.

The sample project arrangement will be described

as a potential placement pattern.

a) attach short cedar sprig at (right) edge of riser section,

on top of the wall;

b) add long fir strip above previous cedar and attach
to the inner "vertical" wall.
c) continue to add alternating type of sprigs
more or less evenly spaced (very close to each other
and possibly overlapping slightly), placing long sprigs
along top of wall, shorter sprigs attaching to inner wall.
Try to imitate the curve and outer boundary of
the ring stack.

d) tuck ponderosa sprig stem under sprigs top layer

and attach to wall top, placing one near lead edge

and lower, and one at center and higher;

e) tuck three holly leaf stems into the layers

to attach to wall top or inner wall,

evenly spaced across the wall segment.

Here is the first riser side with all sprigs in place.

17. Repeat the sprig attachment for each of

the remaining sides of the riser.

Add a tiny sprig or more on side-front of the completed ring.

18. The chunky candle can fit inside the ring

as long as the sprigs are attach to the inner

upright wall, and don't overlap much onto

flat interior ring base.

Poinsettia Wreath and Stand

Dimensional stand is composed of two-tier base boxes

and contour wrap that glue together.

Hexagon post tube inserts through tier openings

and is anchored in place by means of a built-up collar

in base. Add weight and strength to post

by inserting a cut-to-size 3/4" diameter wooden dowel.

Finish with top cap shape and two-sided hook

that attaches to post front face at top.

Measures approx. 11.75" tall.

Poinsettia wreath has leafy-edge base.

Layered blossoms and bracts have alignment

punch holes that correspond to holes

in wreath base. Use mini brads to hold in place,

then glue two-part contrast centers over brads

(or use yellow brad fasteners alone).

Change flower colors or add different style

flowers from other designs to create

different seasonal wreath.

Measures approx. 10" diameter.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the stand shapes:
A base bottom tier
B base "collar" build up (5)
C base top tier
D contour
E post shape   F post top cap
G double hook shape (3)

2. Identify and cut the shapes for the winter

(poinsettia) wreath:

A wreath leaves base (1 plus 1-2 for reinforcement)

B leaf shape (7)   C bottom petals shape (7)

D middle petals shape (7)  E top petals shape (7)

F two-part blossom center (7 sets)

NOTE: Assembly steps for the wreath

begin with step 29.

3. Prepare the base bottom tier shape by bending

back on all perforation lines for side walls

and tabs.

4. Form the tier shape into a ring to bring

the end tab of side wall "boxing" to align

at the opposite side wall between the two

hexagons, then overlap the straight wall edge

over the tab to perforation line and

glue in place.

5. Bend the bottom (whole) hexagon bottom shape

to overlap the bottom tab set, adjust so that

perforation/tab edges line up with straight

edges of hexagon, and glue each tab in place.

6. Prepare the collar that will anchor the bottom

of the post inside the bottom tier, by layering

and gluing together all 5 shapes, taking care

to line each layered shape exactly so that

all inner and outer cut edges are aligned

as closely as possible.

7. Insert the collar shape into the bottom tier,
then center and glue in place against the
bottom wall.

8. Bend the upper tabs inward, then position,

align and glue the top wall in place in similar fashion

as in step 5. NOTE that it may be useful in

attaching tabs in place to insert the blade end

of a tool such as the Silhouette spatula through

the hexagon opening to provide a "press-against"

surface to help join the tabs and wall

(see step 14).

9. Prepare the second tier shape in similar manner
as to bottom tier in Step 4 . . . 

. . . form into a ring to align and attach boxing
end tab, then . . . 

. . . bend top tabs inward, bend the top hexagon
"lid" into position, adjust and attach tabs to
underneath surface of lid.
Also bend bottom tabs inward at 
perpendicular angle.

11. Prepare the contour shape by bending back
on all perforation lines, except bend the top tabs
forward.

12. Form the contour shape into a tube 
to bring the side tab next to the opposite long
side straight edge, overlap straight edge
to tab's perforation line, and attach in place.

13. Bend the bottom tabs inward to perpendicular,

bend hexagon "lid" into position, adjust,

and glue in place.

14. To help join the lid to side wall tabs,
it may be helpful to insert the flat blade of
the spatula tool into the hexagon window
and behind the lid wall and tab to provide
a "press-against" surface to join surfaces.

15. Prepare the post shape by bending back
on all long perforation lines.

16. Form the post shape into a tube to bring

the long straight side edge to overlap

side tab to perforation line, adjust to make sure

top and bottom edges match, then glue in place.

NOTE: using a length of 3/4" wooden dowel

as a form to wrap the post paper shape around

will be helpful.

17. Measure the dowel that will be cut to size

to remain inside the finished stand post

(to provide strength and weight) by lining up

one straight cut dowel end at bottom of post tube,

then marking the top edge of post tube.

Cut post to size as marked.

18. Insert the bottom end of the post (with small

openings) through the second base tier.

19. Apply glue in the hexagon opening of the collar

inside the bottom tier, then insert the bottom end

of post through bottom tier opening, and

seat the post end into the collar opening.

Adjust then hold in position to ensure that

the post is secured in upright, perpendicular

position as glue dries.

20. Apply glue under the second tier,

then slide the tier downward to attach

to the top surface of bottom tier.

21. Insert the contour shape over the post TOP
end . . . 

. . . and slide downward into position.
Apply glue to the bottom hexagon of the contour,
then slide completely down to attach bottom
of contour to top of second tier.

22. With post centered inside the contour shape,
bend the top tabs inward to touch post wall,
and glue in place.

23. To add more weight for stability, make a temp

cone from scrap of paper, insert temp cone

small end into top of post (wooden dowel removed)

and pour in pellets or rice), shaking the post 

assembly to get the fill materials to filter

through the small openings into the bottom base.

24. Re-insert the dowel into the post,
making sure any fill materials have exited 
the post bottom completely, push down
completely.
25. Prepare the top cap by bending side tabs
downward. Position and attach cap shape
on top of dowel of post, then bend side walls
into place to attach to post outer side walls.

26. Bend each of the double arm shapes forward

at the perforations.

27. Layer and attach the arms into one unit,
lining up edges as closely as possible.
(NOTE since the shapes are the same size,
there will be a light offset as the layers build up.)

28. Position the center "rectangle" panel on
the front post face just below the top cap
and attach securely in place.

If a single hook hanger is preferred (for non-wreath

decorations, for instance), the arm tips can be

brought together and glued.

Here is the completed stand.

POINSETTIA WREATH

29. Add some curl to the leaf tips

by sliding paper shape between a rod tool

like this spatula tool handle (think curling ribbon),

and . . . 

. . . to the large and small petal shapes tips, and . . . 

. . . to the top petal shape tip.

30. Prepare the center unit by layering
the single circle onto a matched-edge location
on the base shape.

31. Layer the petal shapes, largest on bottom,

then medium, then smallest on top, lining up

the center punch holes and rotating the petals

to offset the points as shown.

Add a dab of glue near the center to join

the three shapes in the desired position.

Add the leaf shape under the petals

and attach in place.

32. Layer the build up leaf base layers and
glue together. TIP: place flat weights or equivalent
on top of the base while it dries to prevent warping
or curling.

33. Position each blossom unit over a punch hole,

rotate blossoms as needed for a pleasing

arrangement, attaching in place with a dab of glue.

34. If desired, paper centers can be replaced
with mini brads threaded through the punch holes.

35. Position the center units over the blossom

centers, either on top of the brads, or

simply over the punch holes.

36. If desired, cut a reinforcement ring from

heavier stock, or multiple layers glued together,

and attach behind the wreath base.

Here is the completed wreath.