Kitty Standing Box with Heart

 

Shaped container consists of lid that fits 

snugly over base. Lid front overlay includes 

inner ears, cheeks and nose inset cut outs 

to assist with placement of eye lashes. 

Forehead wrinkles cut as a joined unit 

which is then positioned over front, glued 

then trimmed to match top curved edge of head. 

Layered-for-thickness tail can hook into base backside 

slot to make the kitty stand upright (or use 

opt. no-slot back panels to omit tail). 

Layered heart (with a message written 

discreetly on the backside if desired) 

can be held by kitty’s cut out arms. 

Box lid is large enough to have a standard gift card 

attached inside. 

Box measures approx. 4” wide x 6” tall x 1.25” deep 

(without tail) when fully assembled and closed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A box front panel   B front overlay with arms cut outs

C inset contrast shapes for nose & nose base,

cheeks inner ears, closed eyes

D LID top shape boxing strip

E-F LID left & right side boxing strips

G LID bottom boxing strip

H BASE box back panel

I BASE box back panel overlay

J BASE top boxing strip 

K-L BASE left and right boxing strips

M BASE bottom boxing strip

N BASE cross bracing strip

O test strips (6-7) and slot

P tail (5-6) and reverse tail (1)*

Q large heart layers for stacking (3-4)

R smaller heart

*total quantity determined with test strips, slot

2. Prepare layered and glued-up shapes to provide

time lapse for glue to dry:

A) Layer and join together large hearts, taking care to

align outer edges as precisely as possible.

Position and attach smaller heart in center of larger

heart stack front.

Press under a heavy flat weight until thoroughly dried,

usually a few hours or overnight.

B) To test your card stock thickness to determine how many

layers of tail will be required to fit fully but easily

into tail slot, first layer strips into a stack, then . . .

. . . fit into the test slot. Add or subtract strip layers until

the stack fits fully but not too tight, allowing a little

bit of grace for the application of glue between layers.

When the target number of layers is determined, 

adjust and cut the tail front multiples and the single back.

C) Layer and attach each front shape, taking care that cut 

outer edges are aligned as carefully as possible, particularly

the half-slot where tail will hook over box back panel layers.

Layer the reversed back tail in same manner, then . . .

. . . test, if desired, by hooking over the layered back panels.

Press the tail assembly under a heavy flat weight

for hours until completely dried.

3. Become acquainted with the boxing strips for LID.

NOTE the small cut-in symbols of circle, triangle, square

or 'X' in end tabs or joining end tabs. These will provide

guidance regarding joining sequence.

Also NOTE the center tiny notch at center top of

top boxing strip.

Finally, check out the difference between the BENDING

 perforation lines (near end tabs and at corners of shapes,

and GUIDE MARK dash lines. The guide mark dash line

shown in this photo has been highlighted with pencil

for visibility.  DO NOT BEND. Instead, use to help align

transition point between straight segment and curved.

At the multiple tab segments, use a rod-like tool such

as this narrow dowel to add back curl in a similar manner

as curl would be added to curling ribbon. Add the curl

ONLY in the curved segment, stopping as guideline.

4. Prepare the top strip by bending at the regular perf

lines across strip as shown, with "valley" bends on

each side of center, "mountain" folds at all others.

5. Add slight back curl at the center segment where multiple

tabs will indicate a curved joining. 

6. Position curved tab edge along top of front panel . . .

. . . then fit it to the plain edge of front panel, with

the perforation bends aligned at the edge's angles.

Add fingertip pressure to create initial joining, then . . .

. . . flip over the apply fingertip pressure along the seam

until it is completely secure.

7. Continue toward one side, bending and fitting

each segment along the plain edge of front panel,

bending the tabs inward and matching the edge

along perforation edge, then gluing in place.

8. Repeat the process for the opposite side.

9. Identify the next strip end to be joined by locating

the symbol (circle shown here) that matches to

the symbol in edge tab of previously attached strip.

Add back curl with rod tool to the short end portion

taking care not to tear multi-tabs edge. Bend end tab

forward as a "valley" bend.

10. Position the end tab under the previous strip end

edge, adjust and glue in place.

11. Fit the curve and the straight portion to the panel

edge, matching the guide dash mark on the panel

to the guide mark "line" on the strip, and the end

of the strip at guide dash mark near foot curve.

12. Prepare the bottom strip by identifying the center

curve edge with 'V' cut out  marking the center,

then adding back curl . . . 

. . . to all the multi-tab segments for center, and 

rounded corners of bottom paws. Between rounded

paw segments, the bottom of paws have full perforation

lines where the strip should be bended forward as

"valley" folds.

DO NOT bend at the end tabs - these are guidelines

to assist with previous strip end alignment.

13. Position and attach side strip end straight edge

at new bottom strip tab guide mark line. Then . . .

. . . fit the curve edge and straight edge sequence

that will wrap around first paw to "valley" bend 

at panel corner, adjust, and attach in place.

14. Position, adjust and attach the center segment

curve edge, then repeat the around-paw step

for the final joining. 

15. Position, join the final side strip at end tab, prepare

and position into final front panel edge to attach in place,

while at the same time tucking the end tab under

straight end of top strip. 

16. Begin preparing the front panel with decorations

by applying adhesive to backside of "wrinkles" shape,

then position at top center with tiny gap between top

of head and header as shown.

17. When glue is dried, use scissors to hand-trim away

header and excess EVEN with head edge.

(NOTE that this may be easiest to accomplish

by turning front overlay panel face side down

to see the head edge more clearly.)

18. Position and attach the closed eye shapes

on each side of nose base cut out as shown.

19. Turn overlay shape face down to apply adhesive

to backside, excluding the front paw/arm shapes,

as shown.

Then position the overlay over the top of the LID

assembly, with outer edges even and aligned.

20. Position the inlay shapes of inner ears,

cheeks and nose base.

Finally, position and attach nose shape over base.

21. Repeat the LID boxing strip assembly process

to complete the box BASE. 

22. Prepare the base cross brace by bending end tabs

and bottom flange tab to forward to perpendicular.

23. Apply glue to backside of tabs and flange,

then position inside of BASE, in line with the upper

"shoulder" curve guide mark lines on each side.

Take care that tail slot remains clear.

Apply pressure to attach in place to side walls

and backside of back panel.

24. Position and attach back panel overlay over

BASE assembly, taking care to align slot opening

edges as precisely as possible.

25. If appropriate, a standard gift card can be

attached behind the front panel of LID assembly.

26. To close the box, fit the BASE inside of the LID.

NOTE that there may be slight gaps that need

a little double-sided adhesive tape assistance

to keep both wall layers close together.

27. To add tail, slide top end into slot, then . . .

. . . slide tail downward until it "locks" into place.

28. Finish the thickened heart by penning a sentiment

on the backside, then tuck under the free paws.

Use sticky tape or dots to hold heart in place.