February Calendar Graphica Quilt Banner

The February panel design for the new for 2014 banner quilt series is

"FLOURISHED HEART WITH KEY".

It is now available as a cut file

from SnapDragon Snippets

through the Silhouette America online store.

The printed pattern version is also available for mail order purchase

from hearthsewnpatterns.com .

Construction for this applique quilt features fusible applique with machine stitched edge finish. This tutorial will share a minimum of illustrated steps. For a thorough construction tutorial, please refer to January Calendar Graphics tutorial on this blog. 

CONSTRUCTION

1. Prepare the appliques as fusible shapes, using "sewable" paper-backed fusible web. My recommendation is Heat N Bond Lite.

PRINT PATTERN USERS: 

a. Set up a light box or make a reversed image photocopy of the applique shapes then trace these reversed shapes onto the paper side of the fusing product. Consider grouping the shapes by the color/fabric they will be cut from, in an efficient and close cluster. 

b. Quick-cut the shapes or cluster out (leave a margin beyond the traced lines). For larger shapes (hearts) "hollow out" the center of the shape to reduce excess fusing stiffness in the final quilt top, leaving a 1/4" fusing margin INSIDE the traced line.

c. Follow fusing product specifications to iron/fuse the traced shape sections to the backside of the appropriate fabrics.

d. Carefully cut out each shape exactly on the traced lines. Remove paper backing.

SILHOUETTE DIGITAL CUTTER USERS:

a. Purchase and download the cut file.

b. Arrange the shapes for "cluster" cutting by fabric being used. Select all of cluster shapes to determine the fabric cut section required (add 1" or so to overall dimensions to provide a 1/2" margin on all sides of shape or cluster).

c. Cut fusing rectangle to determine size, fuse to backside of appropriate fabric, load on cutting mat.

d. Prepare the final "send to Silhouette" layout on the cutting mat image, adjust blade settings, etc., then send to cutter. When shapes are cut, carefully remove from mat using spatula tools.

2. Prepare center panel. Cut fabric rectangle 11.25" x 15.875" (includes 1/4" seam allowances on all edges). Fold in half lengthwise to find vertical centerline; finger crease through center. Unfold. 

3. Position appliques, centered, on the panel, measuring from upper cut edge:
3/4" to highest swirl edge; 5.25" to largest heart center "valley" position. Refer to cover photo or download thumbnail to position all shapes.

DIGITAL CUTTER USERS:
Consider using the "complete flourished heart" layout included in the download file to cut a positioning guide. Since this combined shape is larger than a regular 12x12 cardstock sheet, you may need to rotate the design to fit the cutting mat on-screen, as shown in the page layout here. 

Position this "stencil" over the center panel, secure in place with tape. Use temp marking tool to trace positions, then remove and place applique shapes according to markings.

4. "Dry fit" all shapes, make adjustments as necessary, then fuse in place. NOTE: to avoid the possibility of smaller shapes (circles) becoming loose during handling, fuse and edge-stitch larger shapes first. After these are stitched, position and fuse circles, then complete edge stitching. Likewise, it may make sense to position and fuse hearts and complete edge stitching before positioning and stitching swirl shapes.

5. Cut "February" lettering panel: 11.25" x 4.125. Refer to illustrations and descriptions for "January Calendar Graphica" tutorial, Step 6, to position and fuse the letters in place.

6. Complete edge-stitching, then position, fuse and edge-stitch any remaining appliques. Join lettering and center panel. 



7. Layer with backing and batting, smooth layers and secure with pins or basting. 
NOTE: For a more contemporary and "flag"-like appearance, I have used drapery-grade flannel as my batting. It would be difficult to hand-quilt through, but machine quilting is very easy. 

Complete machine quilting at panel edges, in-the-ditch at narrow border seam, 1/4" echo beyond outer border seams, around.

8. Trim excess layers as quilt top edges are "true-ed" to square. . . .


















Prepare and complete binding, hanging sleeve and tabs. Refer to January Calendar Graphica tutorial, Steps 13-23 for more information on these tasks. 

WATCH FOR THE REST OF THE SERIES

OF CALENDAR GRAPHICA

BANNER QUILTS!

February On The Docket Tutorial Part 1: Scrappy Heart MPF

This tutorial begins with machine paper foundation piecing of the Section 1: Scrappy Heart Block. 
Prep step: Cut out one foundation of this block from your photocopy, leaving a scant margin BEYOND the outer solid line (which is the final trim line). Use a bookmark, thin plastic ruler, or equivalent as a folding tool. Lay tool on the face side of the paper section, along each interior line and crease. See how the paper is being folded print side to print side. 

The paper foundation section includes:
solid stitching lines, stitching order numerals, fabric or color designations, & dashed seam allowance indicator line near outer solid line.

Step 1. Identify patch #1, and its color.

Step 2. Look at the shape of patch #1 from the backside (defined by creases in prep step). Free-hand cut a patch from indicated color, adding a generous 1/4" seam allowance to the creased shape size.

Step 3. On the backside of the section foundation paper, use a little dab of fabric glue stitch to position and attach the backside of the cut patch in place. I have traced a dashed line on my crease lines to show #1 shape. Make sure the shape is centered within the fabric patch boundary edges. 

Step 4. From the front, locate patch #2 and identify fabric to be used.

Locate the stitching (solid) line BETWEEN #1 and #2. This is the TARGET stitching line.

Fold the paper along that crease. Keep the shape to be added - patch #2 here - as the top layer, so it will remain MOST VISIBLE.

Step 5. Place the identified fabric FACE UP on the work surface. ("Fabric" can be either an oversize cut patch as in Step 2, or simply the edge of your yardage piece.)

Position section (with patch #1 in place) over the fabric with crease a generous 1/4" in from cut edge. Make sure the target PATCH SHAPE will be contained within the fabric cut edges.

Positioning checker: Note how the patch being added AND the patch already in place are RIGHT sides together, as in conventional piecing.

Once this positioning is achieved, carefully UNFOLD the paper diagram without letting anything shift.

 Step 6. Adjust machine straight stitch length to 14-16 stitches per inch (about half conventional piecing stitch length). 

Load machine with neutral beige or gray thread. 

Insert needle 2 stitches before the actual beginning of the target line. Stitch EXACTLY on the line . . . . .

. . . .then stitch 2 stitches beyond the actual end of the line. Do not backstitch at beginning or end of "seam".

 Here you can see the stitching just completed from the backside of the diagram where the fabric patches are being added.

NOTE that the fabric for patch #2 is laying OPPOSITE of the dashed lines defining the actual area #2 as it was being stitched to join. THIS IS CORRECT even though it may seem backwards. (See the next image.)

 Step 7. Press the fabric patch #2 back along seam.
It will now be in position to cover the crease-defined shape #2. To check that this is the case, pick up the foundation and with the print side toward you, hold it up to a light source. You will be able to see "through" the paper enough to see the fabric outlines. Just make sure that the creased shape falls within the fabric edges with enough allowance to trim back to 1/4" all around.

 Step 8. Fold back the diagram along the most recent stitching line/crease. Use rotary equipment to trim excess to 1/4" beyond crease.

The ruler being used here is "Add-A-Quarter" which has a 1/4" ridge on the bottom that will "catch" against the thickness of the paper fold to assist in quickly making this cut.

Continue folding along each crease that defines patch #2 and trimming 1/4" beyond paper fold. (For patch #2, there are 6 sides to the shape.) Many of these trims will involve ONLY patch #2 fabrics.

 Step 9. Identify patch #3 and its stitching line (between #3 being ADDED and numbers 1 & 2 which are already IN PLACE. Fold paper diagram along that line. Note that as you fold, the stitches at that end of the previous seam will need to pull free (or un-do themselves) to allow this process. This is the correct result.

 Step 10. Repeat Step 5 to position the #3 shape as seen from paper backside (pen-dash outlined for this image) over the FACE-side-up fabric.

Repeat the unfolding, stitching, pressing and trimming processes in Steps 6-8, this time for patch #3.

This image shows patch #3 being pressed back into final position. 

Next comes: repeating the visual check, turning diagram over on cutting surface to sequentially crease on stitching line to trim 1/4", and all of the other lines that define the shape for patch #3.

This is the process to join the remaining patches through #7 that create the Scrappy Heart Block.

Here you can see the completed heart patchwork (along with background patch #1). 

Now we will add the background shapes which involve "half-square" triangles and strips.

Grain line selection has been more or less left to chance up to this point. Now we will add more information about using better grain line choices.

Step 11. Identify the next patch, #8, and the target seamline between it and previously-attached fabric patches. Since it is a triangle that is the shape attained when dividing a square on the diagonal, a patch can be easily pre-cut then easily joined. If the fabric is NON-DIRECTIONAL, the process produces 2 triangles, so one can be used for #8 and the other for #9.

Step 12. Envision the size patch that will be required. Easy geometrics like these triangles work well with this shortcut. I have traced a RED line around my shape that includes the 1/4" seam allowance. If I use a ruler to measure the hypotenuse legs of the triangle (top and right side lines that connect at the right angle corner), I can figure the square that would be required. My calculation is a 1 1/4" square, but I need to bump it larger to allow for some trim and some safety. So I cut my single background (pink) square 1 3/4" x 1 3/4", then cut it on the diagonal, too.

 Step 13. Now position the triangle as for the other patches, that is FACE up on the work surface. The paper foundation is folded on the target seam line crease. Position the #8 area (shown outlined in red pencil here) over and within the shape of the triangle. Once adjusted, paper is unfolded carefully, then the seam stitched as before.

Here you can see the #9 shape which has been stitched-to-join, then pressed back into position. Follow the same steps for #8 and #9. 

Step 14. Follow a similar procedure to supply  triangles for patches 11 & 12, then complete the joining, pressing and trimming process. A suggested square cut size would be 
2 5/8" x 2 5/8" (increasing this from the measured required triangle edge at 2 1/8").

 Step 15. Add remaining patches to complete the block - #13-15. Cut strips that are adequately wide (such as 1 1/4") and appropriate lengths, cut one strip that is long enough to complete all four block sides, or work from the edge of the yardage.

There is only one small difference to NOTE: for #14 & #15, the ends of these seams will NOT be crossed by any additional seams. Therefore, stitch on the lines, but BEGIN at the paper edge, stitch across, then END by stitching off the paper edge. 

This image shows the untrimmed block with ALL the fabric patches in place.

 Step 16. Turn the foundation to printed side up. Use rotary equipment to trim away excess EXACTLY on the outer solid "trim" line. Trim all four edges.

 Now turn over your Scrappy Heart block and do some admiring. You have earned it!

 Step 17. Remove the paper foundation from the fabric patchwork. To do this, work from highest number to lowest. We begin here with #15. Refold along the line/crease, then begin at one end to tear the paper away along the perforations created by the stitching.

(The shortened stitches pay off here!)

Continue working to next lowest number patch, flexing the paper slightly to help the paper pull away from the stitching.

View other tutorials for other parts of this pattern project, including a comparison of the smaller machine paper foundation blocks, checker & fusible hearts panels, layering and machine quilting, and ribbon insertion at the upper binding seam.