Bell Ornament Cross Stitch Tree

Bell-shaped layered ornament to use as decorative tag 

then doubles as tree ornament. Hole-punched layer 

is duplicated for rigidity to assist cross-stitching 

with 2-ply floss and blunt tapestry needle. 

Optional buffer layer fits behind stitching layers, 

with solid back layer and oval with faux stitched frame 

front layer, contrast hang hole reinforcement ring 

as finishing touch. Punch holes allow for ribbon bow

to be wired in place, and at bottom to attach bell.

Ornament measures approx. 4.25” wide x 

5” tall when completed. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

(NOTE: the version used as model includes two punch holes

to be used to attach decorative bow; these holes have been

rotated in the final cut file)

A stitch hole punched layers (2 for rigidity to assist stitching)

B optional stitching buffer layer

C front layer with faux stitching  D hang hole reinforcement ring

E back whole panel

2. Prepare the stitching layers by poking any cut crumbs

(aka chads) through to remove as completely

as possible. A tool can be prepared to do this by

bending the end of a standard paperclip.

3. Stack the two stitching punch hole layers 

and glue together, taking care that outside edges,

all punch holes are aligned precisely.

NOTE that inserting the paperclip tool through several

random stitching holes at design edges to will help

 adjust and align layers.

Press the glued-up layers under a flat heavy object

such as this thick book volume, or other equivalent,

until layers are completely dry - several hours

or overnight. This will help prevent warping or curling.

4. Prepare for cross stitching by obtaining blunt

tapestry 24/26 needle, 6-ply floss. Cut a 30-36" length

of selected floss. 

Separate one ply from the cut length.

5. Bring cut ends of strand together, and thread through

needle eye. Pull through several inches.

NOTE that the loop end remains as bottom.

6. Study the diagram below to understand how

cross stitches are completed as RIGHT SLANT across

row in first stitching run, then LEFT SLANT stitches

added to complete the 'X' coming back across the row.

(NOTE that order described by sequence numbers may

be modified when needed to accomplish design

to avoid un-stitching, or to "catch" design extensions.)

7. The tree design is most easily stitched by beginning

at lower left portion of design. (Mirror image as needed

for left-handed stitcher.)

8. Insert threaded needle UP from backside through

first hole of second row of holes - this is the top

left hole of the first 'X' stitch.

Pull thread through leaving a few-inches long tail.

9. Insert the needle down through bottom

right (second hole of bottom row) and pull needle

and thread through to backside . . . 

. . . where the needle is passed through the tail loop.

Pull the thread tight so that tail loop 

is flat against backside.

10. Refer to diagram above to complete the first

several RIGHT SLANT stitches until . . . 

. . . stitching reaches the trunk stem cross stitch

punch holes that are below the first row.

Move downward then back up to complete 

the two trunk cross stitches, then . . . 

. . . move back up to first rows to complete

the RIGHT SLANT stitches to end of row.

11. Insert needle into top end hole to begin

the LEFT SLANT stitches to return back across

first row.

12. Refer to the stitching chart to NOTE that

the second row skips two cross stitch positions,

where the first RIGHT SLANT stitch is added, then . . .

. . . second row stitching is completed,

ending RIGHT SLANT stitches when final 2 

first row cross stitches are reached, then

returning across row to add LEF SLANT stitches.

13. Tie-off: when length of thread is used up,

or stitching area completed, pause with needle

on backside of work, then slide the needle under

4-5 backside stitches, pull through thread, then . . . 

. . . remove needle and . . . 

. . . trim excess thread end off near panel surface.

14. Continue to follow chart to add cross stitch rows,

noting that the heart hollow area does not have

stitches added, even though punch holes would allow

some of the stitches that are NOT part of the design.

Instead, needle and thread skip across backside

to the next cross stitch in the sequence, for

the first row.

For subsequent rows, where the "jump" may

be too far, consider completing only the left side

of tree until complete row above heart is begun,

stitching RIGHT SLANT stitches across, then

moving down to complete rows.

Tie off and on as needed to complete stitching.

Backside of stitching will appear something

like the image below.

15. Complete the ornament assembly: position and 

attach the stitching buffer layer, with outer cut edges

and punch hole edges aligned precisely;

position and attach the front panel . . . 

. . . and back layer . . .

. . . and reinforcement ring at hang hole.

Press the completed assembly under a heavy flat

weight until completely dry.

16. Complete the ornament assembly by adding

a small bell at bottom, a ribbon or decorative wire

hanger at top. If using the hole-punched version

for adding ribbon bows, insert a short length of wire

from front to back through holes to create a loop on 

front, with lengths of ribbon passed through loop.

(When wire is secure, tie ribbon into knot and bow,

trim excess ends.)

Tighten and twist on backside; trim excess short.

To hide wire ends, glue cover circle and ring(s)

into a stack, then . . . 

. . . position and glue securely on backside.

Here is the completed ornament sample.

Ornament 3D Pyramid Bell

Dimensional drop ornament with four downward peaks 

is cut from a 7” square to dress up or down as you choose. 

Surprisingly easy origami-style folding creates the hull. 

Add offset contrast accents in one or more prints 

(consider up-cycling Christmas greeting card panels); 

add optional mini-eyelet to center; add tassel to bottom,

 thread cord or ribbon through center and opt. decorative ball cap, 

add bow and decorative hook or loop at top. 

Bell measures approx. 3” wide x 3” deep x 3.75” tall when finished.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A bell body

B upper accent shapes (4)

C lower accent shapes (4)

2. Fold the bell body on the vertical and horizontal

"cross hair" holds, then . . . 

. . . fold back on the diagonal lines also.

3. Fold back on the shorter "interior" octagon perforation

lines, then . . . 

. . . re-direct the vertical and horizontal short extension

lines that fall at the square's edges to be "valley" fold.

4. NOTE that the areas indicated in this image

(half diamonds) that fall along square's edges

will NOT show in the final pyramid bell, but will

fold to the inside. These DO NOT have accent decorations.

5. Preview where the accent shapes will be placed

once the bell is assembled into its 3D form.

DO NOT attach them yet, since they wrap around edges.

6. Begin to form the 3D bell by pushing the center sides

inward. Turn the shape face side down, then . . . 

. . . "pinch" the point walls to help direct them inward . . .

. . . then as points begin to take shape, push the center

downward until the form "pops" slightly to help the re-directed

folds release and the bell to begin taking shape.

7. Continue to push the points upward and together . . .

. . . until the pyramid is fully formed and points come together.

8. The center bottom hole can have a grommet

"eyelet" inserted and affixed if desired . . . 

. . . as shown here. Unfold the bell to attach eyelet.

9. To attach a hanging loop with optional beads, etc.,

prepare the array with a large "stop knot", then

insert at one point so that the knot is inside the point;

glue in place to the backside of the point, taking care . . . 

. . . NOT to glue point's side walls to backside of point,

but instead try to let them remain free.

Also prepare the bottom tassel/beads, etc., and

insert through the bottom hole with "stop knot" or other

anchor to be attached inside the bell.

10. Apply quick-grab glue to one of the opposing

interior point walls as shown here . . . 

. . . then push the points inward again and align

all points together so that bend edges align as

precisely as possible. Hold in place until securely dried.

11. Prepare the accent shapes by bending upper

shapes BACK at centerline, and bending

lower shapes FORWARD at centerline.

12. Position and attach upper accent shapes

as shown so that center perforation fold fits/aligns

at the center side fold, and . . .

. . . lower shapes in similar fashion at lower portion.

Here is the completed bell ornament.